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Adalinda: The Singing Serpent

by loubie, published

Adalinda: The Singing Serpent by loubie Feb 10, 2014

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64205Views 16124Downloads Found in Creatures
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Summary

UPDATE: Someone pointed out that perhaps there was a bit too much geometry for Adalinda. In the interests of keeping people happy, I have uploaded a decimated version.

Adalinda was briefly on CNBC being used as a demo model at the NYC 3D printing conference. Many thanks to Anoroc for letting me know and for using her for his demonstration:-)

"Once a century, Adalinda flies to the top of the highest mountain in the realm and sings for her love who died so long ago"

I am sure dragons can sing. Here is Adalinda, a female dragon whose song is the most haunting of all.

I've had it on my mind for a while to build a dragon, but I wanted to make one that didn't require supports or assembly and here she is. Tolkien style Dragons are not generally shaped to avoid overhang, so the design took some experimentation and thought as I didn't want to compromise too much with shapes.

You will need to use lots of cooling when printing her with PLA. With ABS, an enclosed environment is preferred as too much cooling will cause the model to crack

I have built her with an open mouth and hollow throat because I wanted her to really look as though she is singing, so don't be surprised at the partial hollow when printing.

Adalinda was sculpted using Blender.

Instructions

Adalinda prints without supports.

You will need to use lots of cooling when printing her with PLA. With ABS, an enclosed environment is preferred as too much cooling will cause the model to crack

You need to ensure your filament is measured as precisely as it can be (so your flowrate is correct) as the model will show up excess material really easily and it will spoil the clarity of the print.

Infill can be very low. I printed the gold model with a .1 infill.

The model prints at 14.7cm high, but looks good printed smaller scale too.

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do you guys think it is possibile to print without infill?

The model has a throat and "stomach" (you have see this if you cross section it in something like software like Netfabb). Without infill these would be unsupported. Of course, if you don't mind a lot of spaghetti inside your print then it might work, but I certainly didn't design her to be printed without infill, so can't guarantee results.

Good luck!

Gee - Look what dragon appears on this web site selling 3D printers :) http://prusaprinters.org/original-prusa-i3-mk2-release/

Josef Prusa is a friend of mine and has permission to use Adalinda. Thanks for the heads up though.

Lovely dragon! Thank you!

I bought a 3d printer for engineering projects, this has added a new dimension to the hobby. Thanks for widening my horizons :-)

She is a thing of beauty.
Almost makes me think of some of the dragons and fire-lizzards from the Anne Mc Caffrey "Dragons of Pern" series of books.
If you like dragons, i can really recommend that series, and since she has passed on her son has taken over that eries and is doing a great job in keeping Pern alive.

Sweet model. Thank you!

She is so beautiful!
And now singing her hymns also in the Norwegian woods.
T h a n k Y o u !

Sounds lovely. Pics?

Does this have much support?

Please read the Thing Details as printing considerations are described there. On a correctly calibrated printer, this model prints without supports.

Can you explain me how to print it correctly? The model has one critical place: the beginning of a chest segment is printing in the air because it has overhang more than 90 degrees.

As a matter of fact, I did read the Thing Details thoroughly. It actually doesn't say anything about support. And thanks for replying so quickly!

Oct 11, 2015 - Modified Oct 11, 2015
loubie - in reply to CatsWithTopHats

"I've had it on my mind for a while to build a dragon, but I wanted to make one that didn't require supports or assembly and here she is."

:-)

shrug So it's there. Definitely could've been a lot more clearer.

Heh - fair do's. I have updated the instructions, so it should be absolutely clear:-)

Yeah, that's a lot better. I just want you to know that I wasn't trying to be rude or start a fight, if it seemed like I was coming off that way. It was just an honest question. I tried to read everything in the Thing Details because I noticed in the comments that you said 'The answer is in the Thing Details' and I didn't want to you bug you by being another person who wasted your time just because they didn't read the details clearly. Unfortunately, that's what happened. I'll read them more thoroughly next time. I'm going to hollow out a space in-between her claws and have a second peice that you can put there that kinda like a board with her name. It's on TinkerCAD.

Oct 12, 2015 - Modified Oct 12, 2015
loubie - in reply to CatsWithTopHats

I think that's a cool idea. Why not upload it as a derivation of my model on Thingiverse? I'd love to see it.

And you made a very good point about my instructions not being clear - which is why I updated them:-)

I might. I dunno. I'm not really active on Thingiverse and I don't know how anything works. I might try to figure it out and do something in the future someday though.

what program you use to make the designs?

I put this information in the Thing Info for each of my models. Thanks,

Why, thank you:-)

Your dragon is singing from my bookcase top shelf :). Printed in green PLA.

Jun 15, 2015 - Modified Jun 15, 2015

I just printed this at 120% (176mm) in PLA and it came out fantastic. I think I'm going to do one at 140% next. That should be near the volume limits of my Kossel delta. The detail is definitely there to support it.
I knew by looking that this would be a problem printing in ABS, as most ABS has a tendency to curl at the tips of overhangs even in a fully enclosed machine. The printhead hits those curls on each layer and the risk of breaking is very real.
The PLA print was fairly easy, but definitely benefited from having the layer cooling fan turned up pretty high.

Thanks!

loubie - in reply to KDan

She's been printed in ABS a number of times successfully; although not by me as I hate the fumes. I agree that PLA is an easier filament to print with, although possibly not as versatile. Thank you for your feedback.

Love this model print it all the time ! Great Job!

Thank you - I am glad you enjoy it so much.

Whats wrong with your filament? Did you forget to turn a temperature script off or was that intentional?

:-) I suspect it's more the picture than the filament. That gold was slightly translucent and it's quite hard to photograph without showing some printing artifacts. Also, it was my first attempt at building and using a light box, so I'm sure that didn't help things either. I took a picture of the same model with a flash (which is in the gallery) and the filament looks quite different there.

Everything is a learning experience.

Thank you for letting me know. I am in the process of contacting them.

I really enjoyed printing Adalinda 2% infill PLA in a Sun Gold .She is on my desk and will remain there ,such a gorgeous Serpent.

 Thank You , Al 

I am glad you like her. I saw your make and it looked very good.

Thank you.

This comment has been deleted.

I asked about using your other dragon in my dragon chess set. May I use her as well? :)

Thank you for your interest, but both Adalinda the Singing Serpent and Aria the Dragon have a non-commercial license which means they cannot be used commercially by anyone other than myself.

An could do better than that --- Medium was acrylic on canvas, studied manimation, not trying to be an advert. (((just sayin'))).

Jan 13, 2015 - Modified Jan 13, 2015

You may want to upload it to YouMagine. I found Aria there, and that printed perfectly! Just warning you about Takerbot. :)

Love this model very well drawn and prints perfectly. I have made several in different colours. Tried to print one in the Colorfabb bronze filament. Printed well but was too fragile when I tried to polish it the wings and tail came off, shame as I think it would look amazing in the material.

Aww! That is a shame as I have a spool of bronzefill and was going to try it for myself. However, she isn't very strong in places and suspected this would happen. Thanks for trying though and I am glad you like her.

This comment has been deleted.

Seems like more of a dragon than a serpent. I thought serpents were snakes!

Sep 3, 2014 - Modified Sep 3, 2014
loubie - in reply to typo148

You'll find dragons in both legends and modern fantasy fiction referred to as serpents or worms. The old Norse and Anglo-Saxon languages both had a word for worm which meant serpent and dragon - so the two are interchangeable. It is somewhat archaic but not without cultural relevance.

I tried to print this for mothers day, I tried 6 times, but never got it right. I put it away and went on to print other projects. Yesterday I decided to try her again, with everything I had learned since them. I slowed down the printer by 50%, put a little ABS juice on my blue printers tape, crossed my fingers and hit start. 7:43:00 hours later I have a beautiful complete ABS Adalinda. Thanks for the great sculpture.

You're welcome and glad you made a successful print.

Very nice and sturdy design. I'm just wondering, why there is a hole going to her stomach? :)

loubie - in reply to Cano

She was originally designed to be a dragon shaped vase, but I changed my mind. I left the hollowed out mouth and throat i because I think it looks better that way.

Plus I was also too lazy to close it up:-) Glad you like her.

Saves filament too ;)

Thank you for this model and the challenge it presented.
My printer is working much better overall, for having to solve the mechanical issues not noticed before trying to print Adalinda.

+1 I had a fair bit of tuning to get a good print ( part of why I chose it - nice details and some cool overhangs )

Glad to hear she helped with the tuning.

She is SO beautiful! Have printed with ABS at 60% scale at least five times on my Prusa Mendel. Tail tip is a weak spot, but don't change a thing! Looking forward to your future designs....

Awesom design, sadly its almost impossible do print with ABS, tryed it twice with 70% and 100% sice, every time the Wings are breaking, cooling is here not the problem. Going do try Print him a 3rd time with BendLay.

loubie - in reply to Zodd

If you look at the makes, you will see quite a few people have printed Adalinda in ABS successfully. If the wings are breaking you may wish to decrease the speed of the print and also check that your bed is completely level, so the model isn't getting knocked during the printing process. Good luck!

I put the picture of your lovely Dragon sat next to a lighter, on the Ormerod Forum, and she's causing quite a stir....
Thanks for sharing her.... Looking forward to printing her in a larger scale soon... Thank you...

This was a flawless make, as said, without supports, it extrudes beautifully. I created mine in PLA on Makerbot 1. Incredible final product.

I printed this at full scale on a Type A Machines at 100um and it came out pretty good. I think the slicer I used, KISSlicer, probably messed with the wings a bit (at the thinnest part of the wings, it caused a rough hole to form) - I'm still trying to dial in the KISSlicer settings for this machine. I plan to print using a Makerbot Replicator 2 for comparison. Congrats on being featured - well deserved.

Does this thing really need to be a 10 meg download and be a model that has over 200 thousand faces?
Note however, I love your work and I am running this off in many sizes in like a green purple and brown gradient filament I made myself to give to the D&D weirdo's I work with. I am just the 3d printing weirdo.

No, it didn't. The sculpting technique I used was flawed and I added in way more geometry than required overall, rather than using dynamic geometry. However, by the time I realized there was a better method, I had almost finished her and didn't fancy starting all over again. Usually, by the time I finish a sculpt or a painting I am ready not to see it again for a while.

I have decimated her though and uploaded the smaller file.

A very nice model. I don't know dragon anatomy all that well but the rear haunches look more rabidity to me than lizardy. Too rounded and not angular enough. Or is that more of the feminine dragon theme going on there, dainty paws and pudgy thighs.

Oh and thank you for the feedback - constructive criticism is always appreciated

constructive criticism is meant for children, adults can use the real thing

Okay - you voiced your opinion and weren't an arse. Is that better?:-)

In order to be able to print her without supports, the base of her thighs had to touch the bed - thus they are chunkier. If I were modelling her more with true lizard anatomy in mind, her thighs would be raised and slimmer, but then they would need supports. The whole purpose of this model was to challenge myself to make something pleasing yet easily printable and not needing post-production work.

However, as dragons don't actually exist, I am also going to use the get out clause that I can make her up as I go along and yes, as a female she would look softer:-)

does it need support material?

No - she prints without support.

Congrats on being featured!

Thanks:-)

Printing one now at 0.7 scale. 3rd time lucky! It was warping and not sticking to bed. But now I have brim turned on so fingers crossed! Would you be a Zbrush user at all?

Hope she prints well this time.

I am not a ZBrush user sadly. I would like to be, but it's just a little too expensive for a hobby. All my models are sculpted in Blender.

Just got done printing this with black ABS and scaled down 50%. It turned out beautifully until I tried to take the raft off and both front arms broke off, haha! Next time I'll be sure to not print with a raft. Great model though!

loubie - in reply to ten16

Oh no! She is a bit delicate but I didn't want to make her limbs more robust because in my mind, she is very much a girl dragon and whilst she should look strong, she should also look graceful. What I do to minimize potential breakage is print slowly and then put the bed with the model on in the freezer for a while: she'll then pop off on her own.

To make sure she sticks to the bed during the print, I use Aquanet hairspray as a fixative if using PLA and that purple glue in a stick for kids if printing with ABS.

Adalinda is about 2 hours into her print and looking great so far :) This is a beautiful model. I would love to learn how to sculpt/model something like this but I have no idea where to begin, can you recommend any tutorials? I use Cinema4D and have used Blender a little too but things I make are not an organic shape like this.

With Adalinda, I made some sketches which I used as guides during the sculpt, so I could keep in mind proportions and her look but using photographs can work just as well. This didn't mean I didn't change things along the way though. Blender is a great bit of software to explore, but can be daunting to start with. I can highly recommend the BlenderCookie site which has some great tutorials using all kinds of building methods (there are a lot) and they are aimed at all levels of experience. There is a paid section to the site but they also offer a lot of free tutorials.

http://cgcookie.com/blender/http://cgcookie.com/blender/

Good luck!

Thanks so much for the link. I just uploaded my make in white ABS. It really is a stunning model and has wow'd everyone in my office. It printed first time really well.

Hooray! Congrats on being featured!

Thanks:-)

Oh man, it would be cool to print one with its head hollowed out with some small LED's inset for the eyes and space for a coin-battery. Maybe even hollow out the belly area to put a super-bright LED in there to give a hint of the fire / ice / whatever kind of dragon it could be. Really nice model - can't wait to print it.

Thanks - I hope she prints well for you.

The problem with adding in LEDs for the eyes in that her head is small and she has a very slender neck. I suppose the workings could be in her 'stomach' and the lights pulled up through her neck - it's going to largely depend on how small the smallest LEDs are. Mmmm...the model would need to be re-worked - I'll have a think.

I don't really know, but: If you have got a 2 extruder printer, perhaps with a light-conducting (or glow-in-the-dark) filament you can print a type of fiber optics leading from stomach to the eyes? Perhaps you could change the model (perhaps simple openscad) and make a multi material STL, in the core the optical conducting filament, the outer side some light tight filament?
Perhaps it is enough, just to make thin canals and print with light tight filament, after that just put the leds in the stomach?
Some stearin waxes (I think, you should not use paraffine with PLA) have some light conductive attributes, perhaps it works...or take glycerin...I could imagine some really nice looking Adalindas...

First print (PLA) went well until it hit a wing :( I'll try again tonight.

Boo:-( Maybe try printing a little slower? The problem seems to be the detail which means a fast moving head will knock the delicate bits of the model and cause damage. She'll print without support but she isn't the easiest thing to print.

Yeah, I've been getting a lot of prints being knocked off lately. Time to experiment with my travel speeds...

That actually sounds more like your bed isn't leveled properly. I'm sure the speed is a factor, but your print head shouldn't be putting a lot of torque on your models.

What brand/color filament did you use? I used Prototype Supply - gold.

Have had no success printing it in ABS, breaks on around the claws of the wings. Is it an ABS problem, or should I reduce flowrate in order to try to avoid some excess dots causing too much force in the wings, cracking them?

Sorry to hear you are having problems. Is the breakage occurring when you try to remove the print from the bed or during the printing process?

During printing, 12 cm up

Read my updated instructions and look at the green dragon that Riprap printed out: that is in ABS and they make some very good points about not cooling to much with ABS.

ABS is brittle and is prone to snapping with thin or delicate models. I suggest slicing the model to print more slowly so it does get shaken so much when printing the 'fiddly' bits.

I used netfabb to cut the model, and printed the missing top section, then glued. Not as nice, but decent enough for the girls.

The cracking is indeed due to moving to a wing, and hitting it, causing a break. The wings vibrate under the movement speed, and I was using 1.8mm for the filament, so some overflow, making it worse.

what flow rate do you recommend?

This comment has made me correct my instructions. Basically, the deal is that this model will show up any excess material and it will spoil the clarity of the print. I suggest setting up individual profiles for each type of filament you have with precise measurements to ensure that you don't extrude more than needed. With many models you can get away with it, but with this dragon it will have an impact on the overall look.

That said, I am lazy and have been known just to drop the flowrate during a print but I wouldn't advise it.

Awesome thanks

Very nice work.. you build it very wisely.. i'm sure we can print it without any support... well done

Thank you. Post pictures when you have a print - I would love to see them:-)

Hard to tell on those wings...does this require support?

You shouldn't need supports. Just make sure you have plenty of cooling and keep an eye on your flowrate.

Thanks:-)

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