Working Micro Gear Heart Keychain
by CrazyJaw, published
This version is about half the width of the original (50 mm), which means its 1/8 the volume and a much faster print (yay math!). i find it takes me ~2 hours to print one (and ~8 for the original)
Rather than just being a straight scaling, this version has been tweaked so taht it will still rotate. The main differences are the number of gear teeth (much fewer, and larger), gear ratio (it now takes 2 rotations to realign, unfortunately) and pins (made much beefier, and they are all one length).
Additionally, there is a hole through the tip so that it can serve as a keychain! Print them out by the dozen and give them to friends/family/cute girls on the bus!
== Edit 6/10/2012 ==
Added a zip of the source plus .stls for every individual component.
Added a "full plate" that prints all the gears + center. Left the pins out, since you usually want to print those with different settings. Fits on a replicator (not sure about others...)
== Edit 6/16/2012 ==
Added a chain connector to gear1 (the top). Updated the src rar (and fixed a compilation bug).
== Edit 6/19/2012 ==
Fixed the length of the pins. Shorted now, so gears should be less wobbly.
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So I finally got this to work well with the following changes:
This is, again, with ABS at .27mm layers on a thingomatic running at 60mm/s with sailfish. Sliced with skeinforge with stretch turned off and with 0 extra skins and 10% infill. The prints were raftless on a steel heated build platform at 100c covered with 'ABS juice'
This is in case anyone else has the same issues I did - i.e. the default pins being too long (by about .6 mm) and far too thick and with too large a lip to snap into the holes and there being far too much friction for the parts to turn easily.
Thanks for the design CrazyJaw ! :)
ABS. Printed raftless on a steel heated build platform. The crazy thing was that I tried the PLA pins as well and they wouldn't fit without enlarging the holes either. This happened with the side holes on the center as well - so it isn't an artifact of printing against the base.
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I've included the a zip of stls for each individual gear as well, along with the modified source openscad file.
I used a raft with .2 layer height, 10% infill and 50mm/s feed rate for the two plates. The center prints fine without a raft.
The pins are the key to getting the damn thing to actually rotate. Use a "multiply" profile to print the 8 pins necessary. I actually usually print 10 in a go, since usually one or two will have some flaw that makes it too loose to work correctly. The best settings I've found is to use a .3 mm layer height and 100% infill.
Then, just make sure you do a quick sand of the gears where they contact the center, and trim off any little protrusions that may be on the gear teeth (these can cause the gears to skip).
The largegearplate and fullplate have the keychain hole on the 8th (bottom) gear. You can separately print "keychaingear1" if you want the keychain connector up top
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