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Printable drill jig for Rostock plywood parts

by Johann, published

Printable drill jig for Rostock plywood parts by Johann Jun 15, 2012

Description

This is a printable jig to make really precise top and bottom plywood frame parts for the Rostock delta robot 3D printer.

This jig is designed to work with plywood pieces of 350x300 mm. You may be able to drill both (top and bottom) at the same time.

12 mm (or maybe 9 mm) thick plywood is recommended to make the frame as strong as necessary. 6 mm thin plywood may be okay if your plywood is very good, and you are planning to make a back/side frame anyway, or if you are building a mini Rostock.

Recent Comments

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Made one, just finished drilling the wood and assembling the basic chassis. This jig is hands-down the most useful help (short of the Reprap Wiki) in build a printer that I've had to date. Well done, it's freaking awesome :)

I saw the PDF layout file which is really the just the DXF of this jig you recommended making. Why don't you have a DXF of the full top/base for visualization as well as CNC/laser cutting?

Do you have a picture of the base when it is cut and drilled to show how the jig is used?

This worked verry well. I do highly recoment that people also use a protractor to make sure they mark out 120degrees exactly.

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Instructions

1. Print the jig in PLA or ABS, it should fit on a 8x8 inch Prusa heated bed.

2. Align the drill jig with the longer edge of the plywood so that the middle hole is on the center line. Drill a 4mm hole in the middle and attach the jig with a M4 screw and nut.

3. Maybe use a small clamp to hold the jig in place. Drill two holes through the jig near the edge. Optionally put a M4 screw in the first hole before drilling the second one.

4. Repeat step 3 twice at 120 degree angles. If you draw a straight line through the middle hole, parallel to the first edge, then you can align the sides of the jig to this line.

5. With M4 screws in the new holes, mark the outside edge of the drill jig onto the plywood with a sharp pencil. Then remove the drill jig and cut away the 2 front corners of the plywood where the motor brackets will be attached. Use a precision circular table saw for best results, but a handheld jigsaw works okay too.

6. Attach a motor bracket to each pair of holes, then drill through its other two holes into the plywood. For the two front brackets it's okay to use only one of the inner holes because the other one overlaps with the heated bed.

Alternative: If you have a strong laser, make a DXF or EPS file of this design and laser cut from 6mm plywood. If 6mm plywood is not strong enough, maybe use two layers for the bottom frame. Upload your file to Thingiverse so that others can use it too.

Comments

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Anonymous on Nov 24, 2013 said:

Made one, just finished drilling the wood and assembling the basic chassis. This jig is hands-down the most useful help (short of the Reprap Wiki) in build a printer that I've had to date. Well done, it's freaking awesome :)

cyclone on Jul 19, 2012 said:

I saw the PDF layout file which is really the just the DXF of this jig you recommended making. Why don't you have a DXF of the full top/base for visualization as well as CNC/laser cutting?

Do you have a picture of the base when it is cut and drilled to show how the jig is used?

TechnoBill on Jul 15, 2012 said:

This worked verry well. I do highly recoment that people also use a protractor to make sure they mark out 120degrees exactly.

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