by unrepentantgeek, published
- Small footprint: only 60mm x 79mm!
- 12V power input
- Micro USB connector
- All connectors at edge of board, vertical or right-angle connectors will fit.
- Atmel AT90USB646 microcontroller w/ USB bootloader
- 1, 2, 16 or 32x microstepping @ up to 800mA
- Dual Z-axis connectors
- Optional per channel current attenuation
- Heated bed support with separate power input (up to 24V @ 15A)
- Integrated heater/thermistor/stepper connector for E channel
- Fan control
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So, I've been fighting with this skipping issue for a few months now. I've pretty much rebuilt most of the machine, re-tensioned the belts, bed level, re-made end effector, replaced linear bearings, even the host PC. I burned through a full spool of print starts to figure this out.
The only thing left was to either replace the power supply, or the board. I replaced the board and haven't had any skips since.
I'm 99% convinced the problem is the Y motor trim pot doesn't hold it's value.
I noticed a brainwave 2 is in the works. Please use some different trim pots :)
That's a bit toasty, but will probably be fine. I'd look into sticking some small heatsinks on the drivers (look for RAM heatsinks) and/or put a small fan moving some air over them.
The thermal shutdown temp of the drivers is 180C, though they'd like you to keep them down around 85C.
Do be careful with the pots, if you open-circuit one it can cause the drivers to over-current themselves before thermal shutdown saves them.
Nice wiring job on the printer. I approve of proper wire management.
So how hot is hot? Can I run the board at full current settings on all motors without heat sinks or fans? The way the board is mounted it has ventilation, but I can't measure the temp of the chips while it's printing due to it's orientation. I can measure the back of the board, which at the hottest point is about 68C.
My heated bed is at 104C, and if I touch it quickly, and then touch a motor driver chip quickly, the chip seems hotter, maybe 110C, but I'm only guessing at this point.
The measured voltages on all driver pots is ~ 1.7v. Any further and it rolls over to 0.21v. The ambient room temperature is 11C
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2. Install Arduino 1.0.2
3. install the brainwave arduino hardware bundle from github.com/unrepentantgeek/brainwave-arduino into the Arduino hardware directory.
4. Get Marlin. I am maintaining a branch of Marlin that will compile for brainwave at github.com/unrepentantgeek/Marlin/tree/brainwave Marlin HEAD has support, but it doesn't always compile cleanly for this board.
Set micro-stepping selector jumpers (D1, D2) per channel. Short both for 32x microstepping. See table on back of board for other configurations. Default: single-step.
Set stepper current reference voltages. I = V / 2.55. Default: 1V == 400mA.
Open Arduino, find the Marlin directory and open Marlin.ino. Select 'Brainwave' from the Board menu. Find the Configuration.h file and change DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT to suit your printer (remember, 32x microsteps!) Power on the Brainwave and connect the USB cable
(note: the brainwave will not power up off USB, you need the 12V supply.) Hold down the PROGRAM button and press RESET, the STATUS led should pulse. Press the Upload button in Arduino. After a reset the brainwave will show up as a CDC ACM serial device (/dev/ttyACM[0..9] on Linux) and be ready to accept commands.
Brandon Bowman wrote up an excellent guide for getting the board working under Windows and MacOS: fabbersuw.blogspot.com/2012/12/if-your-brainwaves-got-no-brains-or.html
Brainwave wiring diagram provided by Brandon Bowman.
- It may take a couple of presses of the RESET button to get the firmware to come up after flashing.
- You may need a thermistor or similar 100k resistance present across the bed and extruder thermistor inputs. Otherwise Marlin may go into a deathloop and you'll never even see a serial device. Even if it doesn't fall on it's face it will only sit and complain about too high temp.
Primary development of Brainwave will continue at github.com/unrepentantgeek/Brainwave
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