uniX-Wade Universal Extruder

by Chri, published

uniX-Wade Universal Extruder by Chri Jun 21, 2012
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Complete redesign of our universal Wade with some Improvements.
Should fit all Printer with 50mm Mounting holes ( V9 Hotend only testet on uniX-Carriage and Orca)
Thanks to Daniel for ideas and testing :)

additional Features

  • 1,75mm and 3mm Filament Support
  • compatible with J-Head/Groovemount/Reprapfab/Geeksbase/Mendelparts V9/10 and probably alot of other Hotends

Feature Removed:

  • Lots of mounting holes - back to only 50mm default mounting holes

I made a Prusa uniX-Carriage for test purpose http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:25600

Update 01.09.2012:

  • Minor Fixes and print optimization (v 1.1)
  • Fanholder for direct mount on Extruder
  • new V9 Inset, mount like shown on the picture, no Metal plate needed anymore !!!


Shoppinglist Main parts:

1x M8x50/60mm hobbed bolt
5x M8 washer
2x M8 Nut
1x 8x20mm bolt (or a cutoff of a M8 bolt) for the Idler
2x M4x60mm screw
2x M4 washer
2x M4 Nut
2x spring for Wade (~ 5mm diameter and 10mm lenth, depending on its strengh)
3x 608 bearing
3x M3x30 screw (one for the idler two for the inset)
3x M3 washer
4x M3 nut
1x M3 worm screw (?)
4x M3x10mm Screw (for Stepper mounting)
2x M4 Nylock nut`s for mounting the wade
2x M4 Screw , lenght depending on the Carriage you are using.

Additional parts for Mendel-Parts V9 / V10:
1x 28x32x2mm thick metal plate, cut and drilled to fit into the printed "carrierplate" and then drill the holes
1x M6 brassnut
2x M4 Nylock nut
2x M4x15 screw

For 1,75mm filament printing you need a brasstube with d=2,4mm / D=3mm

Print all Extruder parts and the Inset of your Hotend.

there are two version of the insets, one with 16,7mm for well tuned printer, and one with 16,4mm for not so well tuned printer ;)

*I Uploaded pictures to show how it is assembled (would take me too long to write all down, sorry guy`s)

  • the metal plate is only required for V9/V10 hotend, but give also stability with other hotends.

*For Reprapfab/Geeksbase Hotend you need to rasp the screws square and press them (from left to right) tight to the hotend when mounting.
the important corner is on the upside of the hotend (Pictures show only the lower side !)

  • For Mendel-Parts Hotend on the original plate you have just to print the inset.
    First mount the Hotend on the carriage (use a additional screw beneath the plate) and then put on the Extruder.

  • For mounting the Extruder to the stock Orca V40/42 metal plate you need to drill one additional hole ( www.thingiverse.com/image:136320 ) and change the Screws on the back to countersunk screws.

* For Mendel-Parts Hotend on uniX-Carriage you have to make a small iron(or steel) plate (28x34x2mm).
-Print the "carriertemplate.stl" and put the plate into it to mark where the holes should be drilled at.
Make the middle hole about 7mm and the outer 4,5mm.

  • Iron Plate is not needed anymore, just print the new short V9 inset (maybe a second time for filling the hole on the upper side) and screw it tight between two nut`s (like shown on the picture)
    ensure that the indentation of the inset stands in the right direction

  • If you want to use 1,75mm filament you need a brasstube with inner diameter 2,4mm and outer 3mm ( http://www.conrad.de/ce/de/product/222337/ )
  • First put the Extruder with the hotend all together then measure how deep the filament hole from the middle of the bolt to the hotend is and cut it a little bit shorter.
    Now rasp the upper end sharp as shown on the picture.
    IMPORTANT smooth the edge of the Upperside or the filament will cut into the insert !

additinal pictures can be found here: http://imageshack.us/g/6/unixwade15.jpg/

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That's a nasty bridge under that bearing! :)

Very nice design, I'm currently printing it. I have a suggestion that may make it easier for some people to print on slower printers which struggle with bridges. In the main part there is a large face which requires bridging where a bearing would be sat in the completed design. Perhaps you could insert a single column in the middle of this area or better still multiple single wall thick concentric columns to provide good support for printers that struggle with bridges. I managed to insert a small stack of washers just before it got here which saved the print, but I don't think it would have worked otherwise.

Very cool, are there any matching Herringbones ?

Do you have sources for the gears? I'd like to reduce the gearing, 4.3:1 is unnecessarily large gearing (makes retractions slow).

Chri - in reply to ttsalo

Sorry the files are only used from a other source also only in .stl.

I also tried to make smaller gears because the gearing is really too much.

If you find something usable pleas let me know ;)

I just printed the parts for this extruder. Now the next step will be the assembly. Therefore a "shopping list" (Screw length, bearing type,...) would be very helpfull. Please add this list to make this project even more easy to rebuild!

Chri - in reply to DB3JHF

thanks for the info, i added the shopping list, i hope i didn`t forgot something ^^

DB3JHF - in reply to Chri

Thank you for the listing! I Just returned from shopping... ;)

What are your settings for the firmware (steps) ? I tried tith the original ORCA V10 extruder settings, but there's not enough throughput with that. I think there must be almost the double length of material...

Chri - in reply to DB3JHF

Orca V10 is the hotend not the extruder ;)

direct drive Orca (0.20 to 0.40) had 67 steps, Orca v42 has 150 steps.

with the uni-X Extruder i have ~330 with 3mm filament and ~350 with 1,75mm filament.

mfg Chri

DB3JHF - in reply to Chri

I just changed from 136.5 steps (Setting from Camiel) to 341.25 steps (doubled the value) which actually seems to work good, but I'll also try to go up to somewhat 350 tomorrow.. Thanks so far! The wade seems to work more reliable than the orignal V042 extruder. And it's so easy to change the filament (only two screws) :-D

Chri - in reply to DB3JHF

Nice to hear , thats for what i made it ;)

It would be better if you calculate the steps instead of only trying them , check out this guide for doing so: http://richrap.blogspot.de/2012/01/slic3r-is-nicer-part-1-settings-and.htmlhttp://richrap.blogspot.de/201...

And also a little calculator (tweak calibration) http://calculator.josefprusa.cz/#MotorStuffSPMLhttp://calculator.josefprusa.c...

mfg Chri