Pinhole Camera Components
by NoUseForAdventures, published
This is a design for a basic pinhole camera. Further modification will be necessary to function, as explained in the Instructions. This design is loosely based upon the following three resources:
If you have any ideas or comments, be sure to post them, but remember to be nice!
<a rel="license" href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/us/"><img alt="Creative Commons License" style="border-width:0" src="http://i.creativecommons.org/l/by-sa/3.0/us/88x31.png" /></a><br /><span xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" property="dc:title">Pinhole Camera Design</span> by <a xmlns:cc="http://creativecommons.org/ns#" href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2555" property="cc:attributionName" rel="cc:attributionURL">Connor Hollenback</a> is licensed under a <a rel="license" href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/us/">Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 United States License</a>.<br />Permissions beyond the scope of this license may be available at <a xmlns:cc="http://creativecommons.org/ns#" href="http://nouseforadventures.blogspot.com/" rel="cc:morePermissions">http://nouseforadventures.blogspot.com/</a>.
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Before you do anything, paint the entire thing matte black. Much of these instructions are very similar to the ones on http://www.matchboxpinhole.com/ so go there if you are having trouble. I haven\'t finished developing a good method for advancing the film, but I am working on it, and will post updates here when I figure everything out. I am also working on a shutter mechanism, but you can just use the shutter on http://www.matchboxpinhole.com/
The Film Carrier: The small rectangle gets screwed on to the medium sized rectangle at each of the four corners. In between the top and bottom components there should be very thin spacers at each of the screws, to give the film space to slide between them. That then gets screwed on to the inside of the body using the same four screws. Drill some pilot holes before you start, and then using slightly bigger screws than the pilot holes, carefully screw them in. then put some nuts on the end of the screws to prevent slipping. These should be machine screws, by the way.
The Pinhole: For this step, you will need an aluminum soda can, a sewing pin, and some electrical tape. First, clean the soda can, then (carefully!!) cut out a small square of aluminum, and, following the instructions at http://www.matchboxpinhole.com/ make a 0.5mm hole in the middle of the aluminum, then tape it to the inside (or outside) of the large rectangle component (labeled \"Pinhole_Body_2\"), so that the hole is directly in the middle of the rectangular gap in the middle of the component.
Putting It Together: For this part, use two small cabinet draw clasps, and two small hinges. They can be found at any hardware store. Also get some foam tape to help seal off the enclosure from any light. First cut the foam tape to the correct size, and put it on the top edge of \"Pinhole_Body_1\". Make sure that there are no gaps, or else there will be light leaks, unless you like light leaks, in which case, just leave them. Then you can mount the hinges and clasps on opposite sides of each other, making sure that the large rectangle fits snuggly on top of the body.
I'll be making a wooden model soon, as I don\'t have a 3 axis CNC :( so hopefully I can post some more images and clear up any rough points in the design.