by mrice, published

Wilson by mrice Feb 22, 2014
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Wilson by mrice is licensed under the GNU - GPL license.

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Reprap printer based on elements of the Prusa i3 and Lulzbot TAZ

Sources at: https://github.com/mjrice/wilson
More info also at: http://reprap.org/wiki/Wilson
Assembly videos (TS): http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL8Y-7ekQy0fT1nlidaN6gXNFdPK6ktJtK

There are two variations of the Wilson design:

  • RS (Round Series) uses M10 threaded rods to hold the Y ends in place. The vertical part of the frame is made from 2020 T-slotted extrusions. (That's the one in the photo with the orange frame parts)
  • TS (T-Slot Series) uses only 2020 T-slotted aluminum extrusions for everything. (That's the one in the photo with the blue frame parts)
    Both versions are maintained in the same repository and have mostly the same parts, except for the y axis ends and brackets.



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nice work buddy.
could you tell me if I can use other X motor mount and idler for this? i want to use acme lead screw with t-nut , instead of what you've used.

Hi how many $ stl.?

Are all the dimensions the same as in the "original" Prusa i3? Like rod distances or so ?


I just spent a few weeks hacking aluminum extrusion frame support onto the Prusa i3, and the dimensions are almost identical. The x-ends are moved 5mm away from the frame in x and y (I don't think that was documented -- I discovered it the hard way when my first set of test rod holders didn't line up with the TS motor mounts). The x-axis parts are the same geometry otherwise.

read the BOM man, it's a configurable size up to 40cm on all axis I think

That was not my question. I know it's "modular" but distance between smoothrod and threaded rod on z axis is 17mm and it will also be 17mm when you build it in 1m³.

Mar 11, 2016 - Modified Mar 11, 2016
unknown_lamer - in reply to edddy

I would really not recommend scaling the 8mm TS beyond 200-250mm in any direction -- I went for a 300x400x300 and have ended up having to scrap all of my 8mm rod for 10mm because of deflection problems. I preemptively used 10mm rod for my y-axis and it's the only part that has worked perfectly so far.

Comments deleted.

hi, i finished the build. The only problem i have is that when i move the z axis, the left side which holds the motor for the x axis works perfectly while the other side which has the bearing installed doesnt move so fluently or stops moving completely.. i have checked the settings, rods, mounts everything. Cant figure out the issue. help will be appreciated.

Fixed it. There was some issue with the z axis motor wiring. All is good now. Just finishing it up with the glass bed and i will post the pictures.

@akshkapoor Sounds like something is binding, but just a guess. Come over to http://community.reprapwilson3d.com/ and create a topic with some photos, maybe someone will notice something you can try?

sure marty


I saw you sized the holes about .7-.9mm bigger than needet. Just like the 8mm holes are about 8.9mm. I Printed the Parts and all holes are to wide. I Printed with .4 nozzle and .2 layerhight.
The 8mm hole is about 8.2mm now and so on.
Anyways, nice printer!

Are these orange printed parts free available as .stl ?

Feb 24, 2016 - Modified Feb 25, 2016

I just finished my Wilson!!
Fantastic simple printer!
I will post pictures when I can.
Thank you for all your work!

Feb 8, 2016 - Modified Feb 8, 2016

Can anyone please clear the doubt for me? The wiko BOM for wilson ts says i need to buy 2020 t slot of the following sizes:
4 x 400mm + 2 x 330mm

Is that correct cause i already bought them and now the comments below have confused me.

That is correct, for the Wilson TS.

i have one more doubt. It's a noob doubt but i need to be clear of that since i am ordering the electrical parts. I do not have an engineering background. So, here is my doubt.

the limit switches i see are of two types. One that you show in your assembly videos which do not have the circuit board attached to it and there is the other one where the circuit board is attached to the limit switch.

I can only find the one with circuit board online. So will that be fine with ramps?

thanks in advance.

It isn't a problem from the electrical (ramps connectivity) side, but it is an issue physically. In other words, the type with the circuit board will not fit most of the mounts that are built into the Wilson parts (they are too big and the holes don't line up).

You can pick up the exact ones that I use if you are interested from my shop: http://reprapwilson3d.com/products/snap-action-switches-pack-of-3

Thank you so much for the quick reply. I dont think i could buy from your shop, firstly because i am from India, i do not know if you ship it there or not and even if you do i think it will become really expensive for me with the shipping charges and secondly i see that these are not wired, like i told you i have no knowledge on how to wire things. I am good at learning at DIY stuff but wiring seems very complicated considering the effects it can have on the machine if done wrong.

maybe i can take out the switches from my other prusa i3 and place the circuit board ones on it as it just have to be mounted on the acrylic frame. Will the circuit board one work with the melzi board?

Thank you!!

Hello , have you send me Prusa i3 printer settings slic3
[email protected] thanks

In the Git folder, there is now a y belt tensioner. The previous version had a screw that pressed against the belt on the underside of the bed. I found that it did not work very well and my belt would get loose after a few months. On the newer Wilson II, there a y-belt tensioner that mounts into the Y-idler. Will this mount in similar fashion as the x belt tensioner ? Thanks

You are correct, it is very similar to the X belt tensioner. I just printed the updated Y idler and tensioner and re-used the Y motor mount. Everything fits great and is compatible. You can also re-use the pulley from your existing Y idler, so the only thing you really need to add are two bolts with nuts.

Hey Marty,
What is the print volume again?

the build volume is parametric, it's 20x20x20 cm +/- 50%

Hey Marty,

The Wilson TS BOM says I need to print a "Idler bearing guide (pair)" however in the stl folder there's no file called that. I noticed in the alts folder there's a file called "idler." Do I print that instead?

Also on the BOM it says I need to print a "Z rear bracket." Is that the "z brace.stl" or the "frame_rear_brackets_ts.stl"?


Z motor mounts don't have the smooth rod hole when sliced with cura 15.04

open "expert config" under "fix horrible" uncheck "combine everything (type A)"

Looking to change the fan to a two fan for cooling left and right. Anyone know any compatible stl for the fan holder? Thx

Comments deleted.

Hi Marty,

can you let us know what arduino version you recommend we use?

the packaging says your arduino mega is preprogrammed with marlin for wilson. what does this exactly mean? do I still need to go download marlinfirmware from github and then go line by line comparing your configuration.h with the marlin configuration.h? seems very labor intensive especially for someone not familiar with coding...


It just means that I connect the board via USB and program it with Marlin, with the default configuration for the Wilson hardware that I use (belts, Smart LCD, etc). You should only need to reprogram it if you want to change what it built in (for example, if you're adding auto bed leveling, that isn't compiled in by default at the moment).


I was following your instruction video too closely then... The 6/6 video shows you connecting the board with your laptop and then went through the lines... I thought I have to do that too... Perhaps you could somehow make it clearer that you have already done the work...

Anyway, I ended up flashing the board with latest marlin found at github. I noticed some differences from your configuration.h

Why not post the whole marlin.ino at your github?

Comments deleted.

Hi Marty,

I recently received your parts kit and am having trouble figuring out how the new fan extruder duct (fan-duct-e3dlite6) attaches. I can't seem to find any good attachment point on the extruder assembly.

Here is a pic of what I have:

Could you let me know where this fan duct attaches?


Marc, the new fan duct is a spin of this thing: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:217253

Basically, you've got to remove that little bit of support material under the fulcrum that holds the fan and attach it there. Hope that helps!

Fan duct for active cooling, supportless, parametized OpenSCAD

Ahh . . . that makes sense. The support material is what threw me off.


on http://reprap.org/wiki/Wilson_TS_Bill_of_Materials
there is a:
Z axis adjustment spring

Is this still a requirement? Where does it go as i can't seem to work out where this extra spring goes

Like eddy said, it goes in the X motor end, with a M3x30mm screw through it. I recommend an M3 washer over the spring, so that the end doesn't hang up on the plastic as you turn the screw.

this spring goes on https://github.com/mjrice/wilson/blob/master/stl/x-end-motor.stl
it's to adjust a screw to touch the Z end stop at the right level

Mar 31, 2015 - Modified Mar 31, 2015

Hi Marty,

I thought you might be very proud. We showed off hacking the Wilson kit you sold us on ebay at Hackster.io this weekend. Some big names tweeted and posted pics of your design! I gave you full credit by posting your GitHub link.




With regards,


Comments deleted.

were are all the parts for download

Comments deleted.

Um, sorry for stupid question, but can you give me some hint about callibration? I can print, but the quality is not amazing and I dont know why :(

Like the other guys said, there could be several causes for poor prints. Try posting a description and some photos of your prints to the reprap forum or to the reprap subreddit (reddit.com/r/Reprap) - it will be easier to help you through one of those systems than here.

Well, ok, I will try to post it there. Im able to calibrate the printer to nice results but they can be better and I don't know why but after some time the printes is off the calibration. Sometimes a lot.. Today I have adjustet the stepsticks with the potentiometer, I hope it will help me to improve quality. I have 3 problem that I cant get ride off.
-I cant set the proper Z height. The bed is always to high, or to low :/
-My Z axis is wobbling. Not on the rods, but the top of the frame is shaggy. I dont have anny big wood piece to put under the printer, but I think that it wont help. When I hold the bottom of the frame wih hands or something heavy the top is still not rigid.
-I can print pretty nice the geometric shapes, parts etc. but I have problem with something more complex like yoda bust, woman torso, Owl statue. The problem is with for example on the yoda chin, ears, owl nose or on some feathers. It looks like oozebane? I don't know how to fix this. It's berelly wisible on the pics :/ (red is pla at 200C, blue is ABS at 250C)


Jan 23, 2015 - Modified Jan 23, 2015
edddy - in reply to vertez

ho, you got a little Z wobbling, but your prints are nice through that.
fixing the printer to a base with screws reduce the wobbling, for the oozebane, try to reduce the flow

Oh, okey, I will think about some base. And how about figthing the ABS parts cracking? Right now im printing new extruder and some layers delaminated :/

Jan 24, 2015 - Modified Jan 24, 2015
edddy - in reply to vertez

for ABS cracking, the solution is to enclose the machine. If the air around the print is over 50°C, it must be perfect.
But to stay efficient, only the fact to avoid wind or heat shock, you reduce the chances of cracking. Place your printer in an angle of the room, near heat source, it's a good beginning.

can you show us some pictures of your prints, to see what is wrong

For a start check as flowing plastic. Sink the extruder to the glass and check the distance on the edges and in the center of the table with the help of business cards.it should move with little effort.

thanks mrice, for this awesome share ..
i have started assembling my wilson, with m5 drop in t-nuts ... but they work out expensive ..
pls could you share the link from where we can but the square nuts, or the specs, that you have used in your build vids
will post pics once its built in the next couple of days
thanks once again

in europe, I havn't find cheapest than http://www.motedis.com

If you don't need a lot of them, try looking for "economy t-slot nuts" by 8020inc on ebay. For my kits, I buy part number HNKK5-5 from Misumi.

Thanks for convincing me to build this printer! Now its up and running, I can provide some pics if you want.
I have made the X and Z axis sligthly bigger, because Im thinking about mounting dual geared extruder(I dont like the bowden one) but Im still looking for the good files.
Overall its amazing, it still need to be tuned a little, I have only problems with callibrating the extruder and sometimes stopping filament. But i will work that out somehow.

Can you tell me how tight the belts should be?

A stupid question came often , "why is it called Wilson?"
I answered "I think it's to refer to Cody" but I'm not sure... so Marty, is it a tribute to Cody?

The original reprap design was named Darwin, then came Mendel, and several others have copied that idea and named their designs after famous evolutionary scientists (such as Huxley, Kossel, and Wallace) . I named mine after E.O. Wilson, an american biologist.

thanks Marty, I was so far

Dec 25, 2014 - Modified Dec 25, 2014

Mine is now under construction. I've got the Y axis done so far. Will post "Made" pictures as I progress. Will be substituting this spool hoder for yours. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:508896 as there is a version that mounts to 2020 extrusion. I also plan on Modifying the LCD holder to be at right angles to the top frame as my printer will have to sit sideways on my desk. Also, I will be using a 360W 12v "LED" type power supply, not an ATX so I'll need to design a mount for that.

I got a kit of all the hardware parts (2020, rods, metric screws, bearings, etc) from Marty (good high quality stuff, and reasonable price!) I sourced the electronics myself (motors, ramps, etc), and printed all the parts on my RepStrap.

Universal stand-alone filament spool holder (Fully 3D-printable)

Ok.. Here are my modifications to the Wilson.. I made a bowden mount for a E3D_V5 chinese clone hotend, (original works as well of course..) Auto bed leveling using a optical sensor which is very accurate, and of course a new extruder, direct drive using easy to find parts.
Check it out on http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:562341


Bowden mount, optical autolevel and direct drive extruder for the Wilson TS or similar I3 based printer
by dexus

I'm going to print the extruder assembly in ABS with an infill of 40%. Should it be printed at 101% to take into account a bit of shrink or will 100% do?

Hello, I have a few questions because Im thinking about buildint T frame 3d printer. Im curious is the Willson reprap as good as standard prusa i3? Anny quick answer which one to build? I really like the simple look of Wilson, but I want to get to know everything before :)

Nov 4, 2014 - Modified Nov 4, 2014
mdelgert - in reply to vertez

I purchased two PrintrBots before building my own. I agree with the comments below built a Wilson and its a fine design very impressed with this design. The advantage of aluminum extrusion design of Wilson this allows you to add on accessory's like spool holder, LCD or other something you do not get with a i3 frame.

Building a 3D printer from scratch is a learning curve. If its your first time buy a cheap printer so you can print parts for a custom build.

Right now I am considering buying one of these for my wife since its on $199 at that price point you could not build one cheaper. http://store.quintessentialuniversalbuildingdevice.com/product.php?id_product=144

If you are going to build a Wilson save yourself the headache of sourcing all the parts. Marty is too humble to mention he sells the entire kit on ebay at a reasonable price http://www.ebay.com/sch/mjrice/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=.

I purchased his kit he is very professional and fair priced. Good luck with your build!

Thanks! Then I will start building it, but I have already 40mm motors, can I use them?
It will be my second build, first one was SmartRap.

As long as the mounting plate is the same as the standard NEMA17 motor, the height of the motor just can't be over 48mm, but shorter is ok.

Oct 4, 2014 - Modified Oct 4, 2014
edddy - in reply to vertez

It's a common mistake, you never get to know everything before doing something, you have to try
BTW Wilson doesn't require laser cut, so it's in a way better than a standard prusa i3

I know, but I want to get know as much as it's possible :) You are right, lasercut parts are bit expensive.
Oh, and can you tell me wich version is better to build? RS or TS?

I have built a Wilson, and it's rock solid.. No problem with the structural integrity at all. I have also done a few modifications over time after building the standard TS model Wilson. I have made a bowden mount with a E3D V5 hotend, a bowden extruder mounted on the side of the printer, a new filament spool holder to have the filament on the side of the printer under the bowden extruder, and also I have added auto bed leveling..

That said, the original extruder and the leveling system is fine. The extruder never failed me, but make sure you get a good quality hobbed bolt.. It's alot of cheap bad quality hobbed bolts around..

My advice: Build the Wilson. It's a fine printer.. Then decide what mods you'd want to make.. I will soon publish my additions on thingiverse, and you can decide if you'd like to use them or not..

Comments deleted.
Aug 4, 2014 - Modified Aug 4, 2014
mrice - in reply to MitchOrmerod

I haven't seen the issues with rigidity myself, but as with all Prusa i3 style (inverted-T) frames, there is the opportunity for some flex when force is exerted against the top of the upright frame in the +/- Y direction. Fortunately, there is no moving mass in that direction normally, so it shouldn't present a problem. Mounting the filament spool above the frame (like I do on mine) will exacerbate the effect. Having a stable table (i.e. heavy) under the printer helps a lot, as it damps out vibration from rapid movements in the print deck, and so does mounting the printer to a simple sheet of 1/2" plywood (18" square), similar to how the Mendel90 is built. For the ultimate in rigidity, I've added rear frame support brackets to the repo (https://github.com/mjrice/wilson/blob/master/stl/z-brace.stl). With two of those, you can fix the upright frame very tightly to the deck with a single piece of 2020 extrusion (approx 200-300mm long). It is an easy mod to the printer that doesn't require any dis-assembly or special hardware.

Hey Marty, I'm having trouble with the latest extruder body stl file.. It looks right in Slic3r, in the preview, but acts kinda strange in Pronterface after slicing. The part prints fine, except for the support material under the holder for the fan duct. It just prints a square at the bottom, but does not continue to print the walls of the support.. Leading to trouble when it comes to print the fan duct holder itself.

I'm pretty new to this, but I think it's not a settings problem.. The support under the idler mount prints just fine..

In pronterface the layers look weird compared to other parts.. It looks like pronterface interprets a single layer multiple times for different parts of the same layer.. rather than viewing the whole layer at once. I'm stumped.. Gonna try a different slicer.. although I really like slic3er..

Dexus - I've seen something like that in Cura before when the width of the wall (the support material in this case) is close to the nozzle width. I made the walls under the fan support .6mm wide for that reason, so I'm curious why slic3r would chop them out. I can make them a little wider if needed. Also, the support under the idler fulcrum is the same width, so it's curious why that would print ok. Let me know if you need me to fiddle with it.

Funny you should mention Cura.. When Slic3r failed to render the part right, I downloaded Cura, and it rendered the file fine. Also, I was immensely impressed with the speed advantage the Cura gcode has over slic3r.. I like slic3r alot, with all the options and nice print results (apart from the extruder body.. :-). But when Cura almost halves the time it takes to print an object with same speed and parameters, it's hard to go back to Slic3r.. The prints are a little different, but I couldn't say they're better or worse.. just a little different.. One thing though.. I seem to have an easier time getting the first layer to stick right with Slic3r.. When using Cura, the frame around the prints (brim?) prints really thin, and I can't find a setting for that.. Do you have any thoughts about Cura vs Slic3er?

I originally used Slic3r and switched to Cura for the speed and the fact that cura lets you set a infill-to-perimeter overlap which makes nicer solid infill on the top of the prints (maybe Slic3r has added that since then, I don't know). Also the retraction control in Cura seems to work better for me. If you set Cura in the "full settings" mode (not quickprint) and then go to the expert options (Ctrl-E), there are several options for the brim you can change. Also, under the advanced tab try changing the first layer speed (slower) and initial layer thickness to see if that helps your first layer.

Hi Again, Marty. I have made a lot of changes to the printer since our last communication. To mention a few: Bowden extruder and bowden mount for E3D V5 Clones, (much cheaper than V6, and really good if you know how to prep them..). including a new fan mount that cools both the heatbreak and the printed part. Autolevel system based on optical switch, very accurate indeed :-).

I will publish my modifications here on thingiverse, as someone else might find them useful.

I also abandoned both Slic3r and Cura, in favor of Simplify3D.. I know its not free, but after taking the plunge, there is no way I'm going back.. My print quality has really improved with all the nice settings you can tweak in Simplify.. Even though its gcode prints slower than Cura (about the same as Slic3r), the quality is undeniable..

dexus, can you provide some more information on the autolevel optical switch you mention above please? Thanks!!

Hi! I uploaded my modifications here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:562341

Bowden mount, optical autolevel and direct drive extruder for the Wilson TS or similar I3 based printer
by dexus

Hi! I'm at work right now, but I will try to upload the bowden mount and autolevel system things when I get home tonight. I have tried several autolevel systems, with or without servo, but came down to a servo one, because with an optical switch, it has extremely good accuracy, and does not poke the bed with the hotend nozzle itself.. besides.. the servo is light, and cheap..

To clarify, on the Reprap site, it lists for 2020: 400 mm (vert), 330 (horiz), and 400 mm (y-axis). For smooth rods: 370 mm (x-axis), 400 mm (y-axis), and 350 (z-axis). Is this correct ?

Yes, that's right.

Great looking design. Have you thought about adding new variant that uses V-SLOTS on the X/Y?

Thank you guys for your replies. I really appreciate this design. Right now I am printing the parts and next placing my order for the electronics. I would like to purchase exactly the kit or items you have in yours since this design is proven, tested and obviously looks like you really know your 3D printing bots! I really appreciated your Youtube videos as well watched them all. You put the best set of instructions I've seen together for a newbie like me building my first reprap. I have had one heck of a time figuring out the correct machine. Recently purchased two commercial machines its not nice to give negative talk about my experience with the hardware so I will not say anything. Quickly I realized a custom build was more of a perfect fit and this setup you have has to be one of the most clean straight forward design. I just love how you tweaked the i3 just enough not needing the original harder to find frame. I would appreciate very greatly if you messaged me directly or post on your page links to the exact hardware you trust and use. Thank you again for sharing your design this helped me to get the courage to do my own build now.

Very nice design what electronics did you use? I am considering the following SainSmart Ramps 1.4 http://www.amazon.com/SainSmart-Mega2560-Printer-Controller-Printers/dp/B00G20IZBS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1402821393&sr=8-2&keywords=sainsmart+ramps+1.4http://www.amazon.com/SainSmar...
Has anyone used this? Pros/Cons recommendations etc. ?

I used essentially the same electronics as you're referring to (ramps), except that the LCD display I'm using is the smaller 20x4 line version. If someone wants to design an LCD mounting bracket for the larger one I'd be happy to add it to the project!

I'll design one for mine, when it's done I will share
and if you need some help with the Marlin configuration, I can share my configuration too
the full graphic display is fun to play with, it can show more info at ones , by default Marlin show the temperature of 3 nozzles, bed temperature and fan speed, I've modified it to show only one nozzle to save place for other info (like the flow)

Referring to "TS" version, github image https://github.com/mjrice/wilson/blob/master/doc/images/wilson-ts-rear.jpghttps://github.com/mjrice/wils...
You've bolted the 2020 X axis aluminum to a foundation board via a yellow printed bracket (bottom, middle). It struck me that you could tweak the printed Y ends to have little tabs coming off to allow you to simply screw the Y ends into the board, thus eliminating the need for the black aluminum extrusion for the Y axis. Maybe make the tabs have a little wiggle room to allow for squaring up, and then BAM! Ez peezee. If your gonna have a board anyway, might as well use it! Throw some handles on it and you can tote it around the country side too!
The parts for my own build of your Wilson design are just coming in. We're printing the parts with our Prusa i3 box frame. Really impressed with your work!

Snarfer - There are holes in the bottom of the feet of the Y ends that I'm using for that purpose.

Being respectfully curious - what do you need the black extrusions for then, if the Y ends are bolted to the base?

A couple thoughts - First, I didn't want the base to be mandatory. Also, the Y extrusions are held to the lower frame extrusion via four brackets which also provides stiffness to the top of the frame, so you'd loose that. And, I think it would be harder to get everything aligned if the Y ends weren't fixed together (plus they support the Y axis motor). But, you could probably build one that way if you wanted. Let me know if you do!

Hey Marty, I was wondering, why did you not include your reworked version of the i3 extruder for this build? It seems better. Just curious to understand the reason behind your decision!

I did recently add the new extruder body to the Wilson repository, along with the new 3-bearing X-carriage. I should update the images here, huh?

I used NEMA 17 40mm stepper motors for my Wilson TS build. 48mm steppers should of been used. Here is the 40mm to 48mm platforms I used to make the Wilson TS stable. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:317463http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

It does not seem that the X & Y end stop has any adjustment. When my Wilson TS home's. The print head goes off to the bottom left of the heat bed hanging in mid air (when looking top down). Because of the 2020 I could just shift around X & Y to get home on the heat bed. But then the frame would not look centered. Is there away in firmware to have the X & Y add 20 when they home so my print head would be positioned correctly on the heat bed?

hi mrice, in the BOM you've omitted the spring for the Z endstop

Thanks; fixed! Also, added to the repo the (optional) ATX mounting brackets that I'm using and a few other updates.

I am having an issue with the X-carriage and rod binding. If I measure the outer edges of the rods right at the X-Motor I get 52.9mm the X-Idler 52.7mm. But when I snap in the X-carriage I can visibly see the rods get pushed out and they measure 53.7mm on both sides of the X-carriage. I re-printed the X-Idler and got the same 52.7mm then I re-printed the X-carriage and got the same 53.7mm. Any printing recommendations? I am using PLA and .4 layer height with 3 perimeters. I did try .4 with 1 and 2 perimeters and .2 layer height with 1 perimeter. Same result I am about 1mm off which is causing binding.

aBrainDump- There should be 45mm from center-to-center on the ends and on the X carriage (53mm if measuring from the outside edge of the rods). I'm not sure why you're seeing that deflection, but it might be the way the bearings sit in the eMotionTech X-carriage. I've been working on a new X carriage design that uses three bearings and has a little better fit (for me) on the bearings, so you could try printing it. I've just pushed it up to github: https://github.com/mjrice/wilson/blob/master/stl/x-carriage.stlhttps://github.com/mjrice/wils...

mrice- Thanks for the quick response. The new x carriage printed perfect for me.

The current people on Ebay selling these do not ship to Norway.. (or at least they do not seem to..)

you can try http://3dhubs.org3dhubs.org or found a fablab

Anywhere besides Ebay I can buy a complete set of plastic parts? This is my first build, so I do not have a printer yet to print the parts..

What is the lenght of the motor ? 40mm or 48mm ?
Thanks :)

Catastrophe- 48mm. (I will add that to the BOM notes, thanks for pointing it out)

It looks like the new Z motor mounts with the tie down holes should work with either the 40mm or 48mm motors (or anything inbetween). Motor length shouldn't matter on the X and Y axis. There are many 40mm motors available that have more than enough torque. I'm going to use some surplus 40mm motors I found locally that should work. Robotdigg in China sells a very nice 40mm motor with more than enough power (about $6.80 plus shipping IIRC), I'm using that one for my extruder.

Is it possible to have the source files for y idlers ts? I need to edit it because i haven't enough footprint for print it (i can print only with an huxley). I want to insert an aluminium angle to bridge the parts. Thanks

Sure thing; I've pushed the sketchup model for the idler and motor ends to the github repository, under the "sketchup" folder. Happy modding! PS what is your max print size with the huxley?

Hi thank you. My huxley is different from original huxley, my print size is 150x 100x 50.
I've tried to export the stl without the central motor and right side of the print but if i try to slice it with slic3r i get the wrong gcode and generate not all the part of the render. I don't understand, the render in slic3r seems to be fine... any idea why? How can i fix the missing slice?

Marcomelimaker - The problem is most likely due to Sketchup producing a non-manifold STL file; this is not uncommon. You can usually repair them if you run them through netfabb as a post process. I've been thinking about your print volume issue, and I took a stab at splitting the motor end to see where it would get me. Take a look and let me know if you think that will work: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:299958http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

Piecemeal Y ends for Reprap Wilson TS
by mrice

Ok, i will do... At the moment i have no spare time to do printing..I'll keep you in contact.
Thanks for taking time to do this!

Why are the lengths of the 20/20 extrusions and the rods different on the wiki and in the downloadable BOM? I just wasted my time and money on a frame and rod set that DOES NOT have the correct dimensions and now I am back at step one searching for more materials to get this to work and just wasted a lot of effort as well. Before posting something like this make sure your BOM is correct.
And no I am not mixing up the TS and the RS, check the wiki against the BOM and you will see the differences. Very disappointing and disgusted with this.

I must be missing something, because the lengths look identical in the two sources to me. 2020 Lengths: 2x400mm, 2x320mm, 2x415mm. Smooth rods: 2x380mm, 2x415mm, 2x350mm.

I found no problem with the sizes in the BOM, all the same as mrice listed above. I'm curious Coldstone, did you modify the desired print sizes in the .ods version? perhaps this has modified your BOM.

For a 200 x 200 x 200 build volume, is the reprap BOM correct ?

I have most of the components coming my way from Misumi for the TS. Unfortunately the ship date appears to be 04/25....
While I wait I was wondering if you had other colors for printed parts for sale on ebay. I see two colors (yellowish and baby blue). Let me know, I was looking for a red or neon green.
Looking forward to build this!

I'm starting to print it now! Thank you, i like the design!

Which thicksheet does this use? I tried using the prusa i3 one but it doesn't line up with the y-bearings right.
I'll post pictures soon as I have it all assembled. Turned out nice, although I think some vertical stabilizers are in order since I didn't have the proper metal t-nuts.

Starting to print the STL's, and noticing your BOM doesn't match up with the BOM on the http://Reprap.orgReprap.org site, nor does it match with the files in the folder. For example, right now I see "Belt-guide-624.stl" and "Belt-guide-sleeve-624.stl" - how many do I print of each? I don't see "belt guide" anywhere in any BOM - i only see Idler bearing guide (2 pairs) - so how many do I print of the belt-guide-624?

Also I noticed the ODS file for the BOM didn't include the 4 Y-Bearing Holders.

Thank you for pointing out that. I've updated the ODS file to list the missing y bearing holders and belt guides. You need a total of two belt guides (one for X, one for Y), and I've got two different designs because I was concerned that the original (belt-guide-624) might not stay together for the TS model due to the orientation of the belt being different. You can probably use either one (I'd print both and see which you think fits better, they are really small).

The original side by side two piece fit better inside the Y end than the one-inside-the-other version. I used some super glue to put it together before mounting it. The other version is a bit 'fatter' which made it hard to get the belt around it in the confined space.

Hate to bug, but I'm trying to document everything I find of importance. The BOM lists the Z-Motor Holder Left and Right as separate parts to print, but there is only 1 file - z-motors.stl which is the pair (not a problem, but possibly confusing)

Additionally, the z-motors.stl has 2 reversed faces (according to NetFabb) - easy to repair, but I don't know how slicing software would handle the files without repairing them first.

I printed them 2 days ago and Slic3r had no problems.

I'm starting to purchase parts for this printer, using my old Prusa i2 as a source for the electronics and such. Question, what type of head are the machine screws are you using? They look like they are pan-head, do I need those? Or will hex socket screws work? Just making sure I get the right kind from Mitsumi (gotta love the First150 promo they have going on, all I need to pay is shipping and I have damn near all the parts I need to build this printer!)

(Using glow in the dark blue ABS plastic to print my parts - should look pretty cool when I'm done!)

I used pan head machine screws from McMaster, but the standard socket cap screws should work fine. Glow in the dark sounds pretty neat; I think it may be tough to print the larger pieces in ABS though without warping, and all mine were printed in PLA. Please post a photo when you're done, I'd love to see it!

Depends on the size of the print, I've been pretty successful with my Makerbot Replicator. If it's a very tough print (not even large, but complicated small columns) I might mix up some ABS juice to give it that extra adhesion, but typically, I don't have warping issues.

Can't wait to get started building! After 2 years, I still don't have a reliable 3D printer in my house


First I just want to say I really like your design and the use of 2020 extruded aluminum. I have been looking at several Prusa i3 designs and this one is by far the best as far as sourcing parts and price. This is really not an issue but was wondering why the smooth rod lengths are different from the Prusa i3? I think it is due to the printed corners and the extrusion length. Could the lengths on the extrusions be lowered in order to use the Prusa i3 smooth rods? how would this affect print envelope size.


Yes, the rod length differences are just to maximize print area. However, depending on how your print surface is attached, you might not get much benefit from the addition anyway (i.e. binder clips get in the way of the extruder). You could make the printer with standard i3 rod lengths and it would be fine, just lose a little area. There is a spreadsheet in the github repository that you may want to play with, it will calculate the rod lengths from build volume (as best as I could figure).

Great! That is what I thought. FYI, I was the guy that open the topic over at reprap forum for your design. The only reason why I asked about the rod lengths is because you can get kits (rod and threaded) for the i3 rework on ebay for fairly cheap (quality might not be the best).

I am trying to get as many parts from misumi since I can get $150 off the order. I will play the scpreasheet and see what I can come up with. I see you are selling some printed part kits in ebay, is that you?



If you want to maximize the area and use the standard rods, then you'd probably want to build the RS model, since the TS takes up more space vertically (plus then you'd have no use for the M10 rods anyway). If you are getting just the smooth rods in a kit, then I suppose you could go either way, but in that case make sure the Y axis smooth rods and Y axis extrusions are the same lengths. And yes, that's also me on ebay!

Yeah, I was thinking about the TS instead so then I can eliminate the M10 threaded rods. I think I am just going to stick with your configurations. I can get rods from Mcmaster cheaper than misumi.

Now that I am using your spreadsheet, I am a bit confused... I am using the variables: Metric, TS, 200x200x200 as you have it in the reprap wiki and I am coming up with different lengths for extrusions,rods and belts. Here is what I got. (Stuff in parenthesis is RepRap wiki numbers)

Vertical frame piece (sides): 405mm (370mm)
Horizontal frame piece (top and bottom): 320mm (330mm)
Y axis frame piece: 380mm (same)

Rods: X axis 370mm (380mm), Y axis 380mm (same), Z axis 365mm (325mm)

M5 threaded rod for Z axis: 340mm (300mm)

Y axis GT2 timing belt: 810mm (820mm)
X axis GT2 timing belt: 910mm (930mm)

Just to make sure, which one is correct?

Sorry for the confusion; the version in the spreadsheet should be the most up to date but I will verify and sync the two up tonight.

Thanks! I am currently running the numbers between this version and the Prusa I3 rework with melamine frame. So far your design is a lot cheaper and seems to be an improvement.
Have you feel the need to add a brace on each side similar to the mendelmax 2.0?

I'm VERY interested in scrapping my (unused) Prusa i2 "Ecksbot" and building a Wilson! Question - how hard would it be to add auto-leveling to this machine (Never used an auto-level probe, don't know what I'd need to modify myself...)

Try and loose the rods all together and use Makerslide.

ariuskooo - I am not sure what you mean about the extrusions; where I buy mine they cost the same regardless of how many sides have t-slots. In any event, they are a necessary part of attaching the parts, although you could get away with 2-slot instead of 4-slot extrusions on some of the sides (you'd have to work out which ones as I gave not consideration to that).
Some of the files are in sketchup; they haven't made it to github yet but will eventually.
You could get away with using the X ends of the standard i3 with this design, along with whatever X carriage and extruder you have. All the other parts are different.

Hi, is there a reason for using pricier extrusions with rails in them?
Also, some of the images on your github looks like they are made in sketchup, if this is so, could you provide sketchup files as well?
Last, can i use any of printed parts for i3? As i already have those parts for single plate, but iam having a really hard time in sourcing frame, so i could just as well switch to your design.

I will be posting more pics here soon, in the meantime please check out http://reprap.org/wiki/Wilson_Bill_of_materialshttp://reprap.org/wiki/Wilson_... there are images there of most parts at this point. Also, at the github repository under docs/images are a lot of assembly photos.

Any good pics of printed parts to analize quality ?

Nice conservative design. I will build one a little later on as my second printer. I have just completed a k8200 which seems to be pretty good but a little too small on the build envelope. I have resources for ballscrews and such if you are interested.

There are two things that determined which extruder technique I ended up with (this one is straight from Prusa i3 Rework). The first was having a good place to mount the cooling fan for the hot end. The other was maximizing the travel along the X axis (no interference between motor and Z axis rods, for instance).
I'm thinking of doing herringbone gears as an upgrade, but to be honest I've not had any trouble with this style and I've tried both on previous printers. The main thing I like about the herringbone gears is not for slippage, but because the gear can have chunks broken off and they still work great because there is so much more contact. With these style gears, if a tooth cracks then it's pretty much game over.

Beautifully executed! We run a box frame Prusa i3 with great success. I love the printed Y ends - Ive seen those before and thing they are the perfect upgrade.

What is the advantage, in your opinion, of the extruder motor and assembly being rotated 90 degrees from typical? Also, we run herringbone gears for the extruder - I read they have less slippage. Have you found the straight gearing is sufficient?

I think this is my favorite i3 derivative. I love the 2020 aluminum frame and printed parts to hold it all together. I do believe I may make one!