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Ultimaker Extruder Drive Upgrade

by Bertho, published

Ultimaker Extruder Drive Upgrade by Bertho Jul 1, 2012

Description

Ball bearing & spring loaded pressure plate for uniform feed regardless of filament thickness

Recent Comments

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There is no space for the locking nut inside the main plate, so be prepared to drill pits for it or file down the protruding edges of the nut.

I do not know what is different or wrong with your setup since the original works fine and so does the production version. Make sure the white locking lever is properly closed or it will not work.

Strange...
i have the official parts from Ultimaker shop.
Doesnt work with my Ultimaker...

absolutely ZERO improvement on my side...
not a single one of my filaments can be extruded with this "upgrade"... not even by hand.

any ideas?
the filament has too much play sideways.. also i think the slits for the pressure-movement are too short. the bearing is not realy pressed against the filament but against the ends of its slits.

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Instructions

Included in the zip file are:
.par =Solid Edge
.stp
.igs
.stl
For detailed instructions see:
vinland.com/UM_Extruder_Bearing.html

The bearing can be found here for $7.41:
mcmaster.com/#standard-ball-and-roller-bearings/=i853dw
It is a Dynaroll SMR128ZZ A5

The spring OD is 7.72mm, has 8 turns of 1.14mm wire, and a free length of 20.9mm. Sorry, I do not have any part number since it came from my big junk box...

Since I needed to measure the spring used for the Ultimaker Upgrade I documented the steps both for a high accuracy measurement procedure and a simplified one.

vinland.com/Spring-Testing.html

Note, the spring for the upgrade is not critical. There is a tremendous adjustment range.

I added a section on Extruder Drive Force Measurements:
vinland.com/Extruder_Drive_Force.html

The long screw is 50mm.
The shaft screw needs to be 20mm since the yoke is 18mm.

Comments

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luotinen on Feb 21, 2014 said:

There is no space for the locking nut inside the main plate, so be prepared to drill pits for it or file down the protruding edges of the nut.

Bertho on Dec 26, 2013 said:

I do not know what is different or wrong with your setup since the original works fine and so does the production version. Make sure the white locking lever is properly closed or it will not work.

yzorg on Dec 26, 2013 said:

Strange...
i have the official parts from Ultimaker shop.
Doesnt work with my Ultimaker...

absolutely ZERO improvement on my side...
not a single one of my filaments can be extruded with this "upgrade"... not even by hand.

any ideas?
the filament has too much play sideways.. also i think the slits for the pressure-movement are too short. the bearing is not realy pressed against the filament but against the ends of its slits.

heyfife on Jul 22, 2013 said:

I bought a pack of 150 hobby springs and none of them were strong enough. I happened to pass a motorcycle parts shop and wandered in on the off chance they would have something. He had a box of springs on the counter and I managed to find 3 candidates, one of which worked. As I was walking home I spotted a washer on the ground that worked for me too! All in all it was a good day. My prints are much more consistent now. Thank you!

thereza on Jun 23, 2013 said:

I spent a few minutes looking on McMaster for the cheapest springs that would fit the bill. This is what I think will work: http://www.mcmaster.com/#cadin... - they are about $5 for 5, and can generate 7.5kg of force at full compression.

MINIFACTURE on Dec 31, 2012 said:

I got my spring from a hole puncher.

chiz on Dec 17, 2012 said:

For those sourcing out a suitable spring, just want to share that I found one from an unlikely source -- a bicycle shop.

Bike derailers usually contain a spring or two with force and overall dimensions that's suitable for this extruder.

See pics below:

Source:
http://www.mytenspeeds.com/My_...

Direct link to derailer pic:
http://www.mytenspeeds.com/My_...

Compare to Ultimaker shop image:
https://shop.ultimaker.com/med...

The bearing is another story though as I'm still unable to get the best fit. I found a 12mm OD bearing but with a bore of 4mm, which is too thick to fit in the filament canal.

gluetolf on Oct 15, 2012 said:

M3 50mm screws are hard to find! Where did you get yours?

Daid on Oct 15, 2012 said:

I got all lengths of M3 from: http://www.rvspaleis.nl

Bertho on Oct 15, 2012 said:

 I did not buy it, I have a BIG box with various screws.  The 50mm dimension is not critical.  40mm is fine with my spring and with a little stiffer, shorter spring even a shorter screw can be used.

lobster2b on Sep 29, 2012 said:

Hi, What size is the ball bearing, i try to find it at mcmaster. but that site is a joke for searching, it has locked me out for 24hrs for searching: Dynaroll, SMR128ZZ, 128Z.

Id like the measurements in metric please :D

Polymorph on Nov 18, 2012 said:

From McMaster Carr, looking it up with the dimensions you gave, I get 7804K115 stock number. $7.41 plus SH.

jgeerds on Sep 15, 2012 said:

http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/... has lots of suitable bearings, 4mm width should be fine. I am waiting for a shipment of 2, one with 3mm ID, for a perfect fit for the M3 axle, and 8 or 10mm OD, and another 4mm wide bearing with 8 or 10MM ID and 14-16mm OD, basically a bearing in a bearing setup, since 2 standard bearings are still cheaper than one odd sized bearing. and it has a deeper reach to the bolt.

Bertho on Sep 15, 2012 said:

Thanks for listing the supplier.

You need at least 12mm OD bearing or the bearing will not reach the filament. Of course it is possible to grind away some material from the original plywood sides to make it work.

Similarly, a 4mm wide bearing will be a tight fit between the plywood sides. You might have to add a thin spacer between the plywood layers to slightly increase the spacing or grind away some material.

Jennigma on Sep 2, 2012 said:

I did a lot of swearing last night trying to assemble this, and will be reprinting several parts I broke. The bit I missed in the instructions was "file off two sides of the 50mm screw head." :-)

I was trying to somehow assemble it with the full width of the screw head-- which emphatically does not work. That was after I realized it was the head and not the nut that fit into the slot in the delrin part. *headdesk*

Clearly I shouldn't start assembly at 10pm on a Saturday after a pleasant
dinner with a bit of wine.

jgeerds on Sep 15, 2012 said:

Instead of filing the screw head down to size, you can also make a bit room in the plastic side panels with a knife or drill bit.

Bertho on Sep 2, 2012 said:

I am happy you got it resolved. Too little sleep will also create similar problems.

The good news is that soon you can print without worrying about fine adjusting the spring force because of changing filament diameter.

chemwhite on Aug 9, 2012 said:

Very nice upgrade. I am getting more even extrusion and less problems with a filament plug just above the hot end brass tube. Note: If a different size bearing is used, you will need to adust the length of the yoke forks to account for the difference. I tried using a small diameter bearing without ajustin the yoke and the preformance was worse than with the original Delrin piece.

Bertho on Aug 9, 2012 said:

Thanks ChemWhite,

Yes, bearing size is critical. Too small diameter and it will not reach, too wide and it will not fit between the plywood sides and too large it will not fit in the cutout area.

Happy printing!

Bertho on Jul 15, 2012 said:

Here are measurements of the actual drive force:

http://www.vinland.com/Extrude...

jpg on Jul 9, 2012 said:

Great work, thanks. Printed one. I just added two spring caps because i use a different spring (shorter and wider) that looked ugly...

Bertho on Jul 9, 2012 said:

It looks good with the spring caps.

Happy Printing!

Gijs on Jul 2, 2012 said:

I've started to print this, but wonder how do you deal with the fact that the yoke is 18mm wide, whereas the default assembly is only 16mm? Because right now in the default assembly, my gear is almost touching the heads of the screws already.

the bushing seems a bit too thick. I had a better fit printing it 3.5mm instead

I wonder how you do 'tighten' the shaft screw, since there is only 2mm left for the nylock nut. Or did you use a longer screw for it?

mikeq on Jul 11, 2012 said:

I see the same on my extruder. I would have to add a washer to my large gear. Otherwise, the yoke screw will definitely interfere with the large gear. Maybe if I use a countersunk head screw on that side of the yoke it might just clear it.

Bertho on Jul 3, 2012 said:

The yoke is 1mm wider on each side than the plywood. The screw heads are 1.5mm so the gear must have more than that in clearance. To line up the big gear with the little gear I also have an extra washer on the big gear inside.

The Delrin part is 3.7mm and the bushing should be the same for a sliding fit. that assures that the 3.5mm bearing will not rub against the sides.

I used a longer screw for my final assembly.

Hannu6 on Jul 2, 2012 said:

If anyone has ordered all the parts somewhere, please share the information :)

I'm searching for the spring, the screw and shaft screw.. I don't have any junk boxes here to salvage those parts.

A list of parts that can be ordered online would help a lot.
(I didn't find the bearing from mcmaster site, but I found it by googling the name).

Chrissundy on Jul 30, 2012 said:

Here is another adress, where for example the german ones could buy the bearings. I
´ve ordered some today for 1,51€/piece.

http://www.kugellager-express....

jensa on Jul 5, 2012 said:

Are you sure you're not overlooking the obvious - your local hardware store

;)

I have a combined "paint supplies and hardware" store in the tiny town I live in and they have all I could want of nuts and bolts. Anything else you can find easily on ebay (like the bearings)

Bertho on Jul 2, 2012 said:

The bearing is 12mm OD, 8mm ID 3.5mm Wide.

Search on McMaster page for: Metric, 12mm OD, 8mm ID
&
amp; 3.5 W.

The part # is 7804K115

jgeerds on Jul 2, 2012 said:

some form of link to where to find springs might be helpful, the rest is trivial... maybe you could consider a design option to use (grooved) standard skate bearings (22x8x7mm)

Bertho on Jul 2, 2012 said:

Sorry, the roller blade bearings are much too wide. The bearing must fit in-between the plywood sides.

mikeq on Jul 2, 2012 said:

I really like this upgrade. I need more information though. What size is the ball bearing? Where did you get it? What length is the long 3mm screw? How long is the screw on the yoke piece going through the bearing? How long is the spring uncompressed. Where did you get it? An idea of how stiff the spring is?

fnord on Jul 10, 2012 said:

from what I remember, the force exerted by a spring is given by F=kX where k is the spring constant and x is the deflection. What that means is if you can find a spring that fits the diameter of the yoke, and is roughly the right length, you should be able to change the deflection until you get the right force. So if you're worrying about finding the right spring, don't - just find whatever you can, and experiment.

I'm going to print one of these over the next week, and will post back with my progress on finding a spring that works, and how it all turns out.

fnord.

Bertho on Jul 2, 2012 said:

I added the info in the instructions. I will update with the spring force data.

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