Hey! This thing is still a Work in Progress.
Files, instructions, and other stuff might change!
Printrbot modified parts.
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Published on July 13, 2012
Description
Some parts I modified for my printer.
These are replacement parts. Add-ons can be found on some of my other thingyverse pages.
One difference to the orginal parts is the motor-mount and idler have holes for screws to lock the rods and bearings in place. This might help reduce the wobble a bit but don't expect miracles - the main problems are else-where.
I've added the option to mount the x limit switch at the bottom. This is untested as I have mine on the side.
The usual top mounted X adjustment is fine for most people. The only advantage of the low position is you can take the extruder mount off without moving the adjuster screw.
I do not have the back mounted z adjuster.
I had nothing but trouble with original one and have mine at the front and with a locking mechanism - it works very well.
It is part of the new idler and
I have an addon version - thingiverse.com/thing:23481 - you can find the knob etc there.
All your base (R belong to us).
There will be several.
V1 is simply the orginal with the Z motors brought in .5mm so they should line up better with the Z lift nuts.
These are replacement parts. Add-ons can be found on some of my other thingyverse pages.
One difference to the orginal parts is the motor-mount and idler have holes for screws to lock the rods and bearings in place. This might help reduce the wobble a bit but don't expect miracles - the main problems are else-where.
I've added the option to mount the x limit switch at the bottom. This is untested as I have mine on the side.
The usual top mounted X adjustment is fine for most people. The only advantage of the low position is you can take the extruder mount off without moving the adjuster screw.
I do not have the back mounted z adjuster.
I had nothing but trouble with original one and have mine at the front and with a locking mechanism - it works very well.
It is part of the new idler and
I have an addon version - thingiverse.com/thing:23481 - you can find the knob etc there.
All your base (R belong to us).
There will be several.
V1 is simply the orginal with the Z motors brought in .5mm so they should line up better with the Z lift nuts.
Instructions
Mine were printed in ABS because the motors get warm and may weaken PLA.
My ABS doesn't bond as well as PLA and overtightening a screw did crack one piece. I printed .2mm layers but .4 should be OK.
Most of the holes were tight and needed filing.
The screw holes are intended to be taped m3. My tap was a bit short.
It might be possible to use shorter screws and make up the extra length with a short rod (match stick?).
All my bearings were pretty tight and only the top rod needed screws.
Note the the carriage is printed in a different orientation to the rest so it is important your printer in calibrated with the Z X and Y matched.
One axis won't be as critical depending on the orientation used for printing.
Base-V1 is untested use at own risk.
My ABS doesn't bond as well as PLA and overtightening a screw did crack one piece. I printed .2mm layers but .4 should be OK.
Most of the holes were tight and needed filing.
The screw holes are intended to be taped m3. My tap was a bit short.
It might be possible to use shorter screws and make up the extra length with a short rod (match stick?).
All my bearings were pretty tight and only the top rod needed screws.
Note the the carriage is printed in a different orientation to the rest so it is important your printer in calibrated with the Z X and Y matched.
One axis won't be as critical depending on the orientation used for printing.
Base-V1 is untested use at own risk.
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License
Printrbot modified parts. by eddiema is licensed under the Attribution - Share Alike - Creative Commons license.
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Hi Eddie, nice.
Is the tab on the X-Motor for the switch designed for a single zip-tie or for screw mount?
When I first saw the main photo, it looked like a cup holder :) had a brief mental twist on that one.
Thanx,
As I said it isn't tested.
For mine (which is higher) I used zip ties. The ones I have doesn't work well with the supplied switches.The ties bowed a bit and would probably cause a clerance issue expect I have long carriage bearings and don't need full travel. A screw would be better but I'd actually be inclined to glue it. The switches are only a few bucks and will last the life of the printer. Just make sure they work first and you don't get glue into bad places.