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Motor Boat RC - spiral vase printable

by wersy, published

Motor Boat RC - spiral vase printable by wersy Mar 15, 2014

Description

I wanted to make a bigger boat so I just scaled up my boat thingiverse.com/thing:204303 to 200% and edit the bow.
It can be printed in two parts each 162 mm high.
Additional it has now a propeller drive and rudder control.
It is designed to use my Roxxy BL-Outrunner which I already used for my plane thingiverse.com/thing:86982
But this Motor is so powerfull that it would drive the boat to fast without controlling the speed. Currently I am waiting for a receiver to see if I can slow it down enough.
Meanwhile I found a little dc motor diameter 24 mm and added a mount to fasten it. Even though its less power it runs well enough and it should not go much faster without risk of capsizing.
The driving shaft is a 3 mm rod and the stern tube is 4/3 mm brass tubing.
For testing it I just bonded the two parts with tape ;-)
youtube.com/watch?v=nzSYyld0tps&list=UUUS-GdzZ06rh8MPHkMcz0Jg

Be aware that you will use it at your own risk!
Better choose flat water without waves and where you can go in - in worst case... ;-)

Recent Comments

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Thank you for the info. I had bottom shells set at three in slic3r and it appears to be printing as desired now after setting it to zero.
Maybe you printed it with solid layers on bottom?
Printing the Aft
The stern is 1.2 mm thick. That means you must take four 0.3 mm solid layers on bottom to get a complete solid stern.
The top (the connection to the bow) shall not have solid layers to stay hollow.
Slice3r don't add solid layers on top, how many ever you enter. But I don't know how other slicers work.
Printing the bow
Here you shall not have solid layers, just a little brim.
Hi, for some reason I can't get the bow to print properly so the interface can slip inside of it. It always comes out solid in the model with zero percent infill and only a single perimiter. Any ideas on how I can make this work?

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Deal With It

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Instructions

Printing
The best is, if you print it with spiral vase methode. Then you will get a neat surface without any noses from layer change.
The hull is 3.0 mm thick.
I printed with layer hight: 0.3 mm and width: 0.6 mm.
Anyway, you have to print it hollow with one perimeter otherwise it will not fit inside the interface part to connect the bow to the aft.
I added a small base on aft to get more brim. I printed without heatbed and used 6 mm brim.

Printing the Aft
The stern is 1.2 mm thick. That means you must take four 0.3 mm solid layers on bottom to get a complete solid stern.
The top (the connection to the bow) shall not have solid layers to stay hollow.
Slice3r don't add solid layers on top, how many ever you enter. But I don't know how other slicers work.

Printing the bow
Here you shall not have solid layers, just a little brim.
And yes, be very careful, if you reach the nose.
Reduce the temperature and speed by and by in small steps.

Drive
It was designed for the Roxxy BL-Outrunner robbe.de/roxxy-bl-outrunner-2834-08.html but it is more likely that it will be to strong.
Currently I used a dc motor that tolerates even a 4 cells battery.
It has a diameter of 24 mm and a shaft of 2 mm.
Driving shaft:
3 mm rod 130 mm long with 11 mm M3 thread on one end.
Coupling:
2 heat shrink tubes
One small one und a bigger one to put them one into each other, both about 45 mm long.
I fastened the smaller one with rubber band to the motor shaft before shrinking the bigger one upon it. It is not necessary on the other side because of the longer contact surface.





Hi, for some reason I can't get the bow to print properly so the interface can slip inside of it. It always comes out solid in the model with zero percent infill and only a single perimiter. Any ideas on how I can make this work?
Maybe you printed it with solid layers on bottom?
Printing the Aft
The stern is 1.2 mm thick. That means you must take four 0.3 mm solid layers on bottom to get a complete solid stern.
The top (the connection to the bow) shall not have solid layers to stay hollow.
Slice3r don't add solid layers on top, how many ever you enter. But I don't know how other slicers work.
Printing the bow
Here you shall not have solid layers, just a little brim.
Thank you for the info. I had bottom shells set at three in slic3r and it appears to be printing as desired now after setting it to zero.
sehr schön, mein sohn möchte jetzt auch so eines haben.
wie funktioniert die verbindung von motor und schraube?
wie bekommt man das dicht aber beweglich?
Die Kupplung besteht aus zwei Lagen Schrumpfschlauch ca. 50 mm lang.

Der erste Schlauch wird an der Motorwelle nach dem Schrumpfen zusätzlich
mit stramm gewickeltem Gummiband befestigt und der Knoten mit Gummikleber
gesichert. Auf der Schraubenwellenseite ist das wegen der langen Kontaktfläche nicht
erforderlich.

Zwischen Motor- und Schraubenwelle sollte ein etwa 6 mm lange Zwischenraum
sein, der als elastische Dehnfuge wirkt. Es erleichtert das Schrumpfen, wenn man
dort in den ersten Schlauch einen 2 mm Schrumpfschlauch legt.



Zum Abdichten des Stevenrohres reicht es aus, Rohr und Welle reichlich mit
Lagerfett zu fetten.
dankeschön
ein super schönes Projekt, echt klasse..
ich werde es die Tage auch mal drucken...meine Tochter wird sich sehr freuen

vielen Dank fürs Einstellen der Dateien
Danke für das Kompliment und viel Spaß beim Drucken.
Es ist jedoch nicht sehr robust aber Mädchen gehen damit sicher vorsichtiger um :-)
Super cool wersy!
My printer is still out of action, I'm at university so I'm too busy these days to spend anytime on it or the design of the centrifugal pump.

Inspirational. Good stuff. Thanks for sharing!
wersy - in reply to TTN
Thank you, I am glad you like it.
I hope you will get your printer running soon again and find the time for designing the centrifugal pump which I would very much like to see.
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