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Pocket-Tactics (Beta)

by dutchmogul, published

Pocket-Tactics (Beta) by dutchmogul Jul 23, 2012

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Description

UPDATE: This set has been re-designed. I'll be keeping this old one up in case anyone prefers it, but the new set can be found here: thingiverse.com/thing:41740

Introducing Pocket-Tactics! A fast-paced, modular strategy board game that all fits in a tiny bag.

Still not sure what we'll do with this little game, though I'd like to make it free to print and play to my fellow makers. My nerdsmen and I have been having a blast with it these last few days. If anyone ends up printing one of these let me know how it plays, I'd love to get some feedback. Reporting any typos/mistakes in the rules would be greatly appreciated as well.

We'll be updating the progress of the game and provide expanded rules on our blog, so be sure and check us out there as well
illgottengames.blogspot.com/

All of the pieces were designed using Tinkercad.
tinkercad.com/users/bHIdLANxoGl-arian-croft

Recent Comments

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Awesome, glad to hear it worked out. Looking forward to seeing pics, let me know when you post something.

Yeah, I'll get plates together. Been busy, and once you have a plate together on TCAD it usually takes a few days to render. What material did you print the set in? Also, what temp, layer height, infill, and speed was it it set to?

By the way, I ran the plates through netfabb before I printed. I think that helped my success.

I'll post a picture (and maybe a blog update) tonight but I was surprised at how well this printed on my Makerbot. The whole set worked, no supports. Had a bit of detail issue, but I thing I had the speed a little too high.

Thank you for including the plates. Hopefully you'll have plates for the other sets when I get to them, but I want to play this one first. I think I'm gonna try pocket sizeing the rules too and adding some illustrations.

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Instructions

Each piece was printed on my Makerbot Replicator at a .10 layer height with 10% infill. I printed them all one piece at a time, though you can feel free to try and print bricks of them. I had trouble doing so and it was probably due to my calibration. All in all, the set takes about 9 hours to print, give or take.

So, for the core set as I've designed it, you'll need the following (and I've included the colors you should paint things, though this is only a suggestion):

-3 Conscripts (tan)
-2 Archers (tan)
-2 Spearmen (tan)
-2 Swordsmen (tan)
-1 Shieldmaiden (tan)
-1 Fire Mage (tan)

-3 Beastfolk Stalkers (dark green)
-2 Beastfolk Marauders (dark green)
-2 Beastfolk Juggernauts (dark green)
-2 Forest Witches (dark green)
-1 Cursed Ranger (dark green)
-1 Druid (dark green)

-1 Caer (tan)
-1 Druid's Circle (dark green)
-2 Village Tiles (tan)
-3 Water Tiles (blue)
-4 Hills Tiles (light green)
-4 Field Tiles (yellow)
-7 Forest Tiles (dark green)

You'll also need a grip of six-sided dice (6 for each player) and it helps immensely if half of them are a different color. The rules are in super-beta mode (just finished writing them last night) so expect typos and confusion, but throw me some feedback and I can answer questions/clean up the document as we go.

-Big props to our tech editor, John Peden ([email protected]) for this new, squeaky clean rules sheet

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Comments

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cymon on Sep 12, 2012 said:

I'll post a picture (and maybe a blog update) tonight but I was surprised at how well this printed on my Makerbot. The whole set worked, no supports. Had a bit of detail issue, but I thing I had the speed a little too high.

Thank you for including the plates. Hopefully you'll have plates for the other sets when I get to them, but I want to play this one first. I think I'm gonna try pocket sizeing the rules too and adding some illustrations.

cymon on Sep 12, 2012 said:

By the way, I ran the plates through netfabb before I printed. I think that helped my success.

simplehometech on Aug 17, 2012 said:

I am having a lot of problems printing the game pieces out. Last night I tried the druid and found that the staff wont print correctly. The base of the staff prints - then for the next 5 or so layers nothing prints out for it - then it starts again making a big blob of plastic. Also - it seems like a lot of these models have errors when i run them thru netfabb. I am printing in ABS (230 nozzle / 115 build platform / 2 shells / .10 fill. Are other people having problems with these parts?

dutchmogul on Aug 17, 2012 said:

I've heard that, though not for the druid's staff. Seems to be different parts for different people. I don't know too much about the technical nitty gritty, but I know that I achieved success by trial and error and especially by leveling my build plate. I print them one at a time (in ABS) and, like you, at at an extruder temp of 230. A plate temp of 110, but I can't imagine 5 degrees making much of a difference. They should be printed at a .10 layer height, not sure what would happen otherwise. Might lose detail and it might come out as blobs in parts. Sounds like you've got that part right. I don't know about netfab, but they should work if you're taking the same steps. I should add that I use a Makerbot Replicator, I really don't know what other printers will do... oh! And I've been printing them at 100% infill lately. You might try that. I used to do them at 10% with one shell (never tried more than one shell with those, so that's another unknown for me), but rock it at 100% and see if that doesn't make a difference. The pieces are more durable and have a nice heft. We've also seen a marked improvement in the detail.

fma on Aug 10, 2012 said:

Thanks for this nice game!

I'm translating the rules in french for my kids, and I'm not sure to clearly understand the section below; could someone explain me in detail how it works?

"Ranged Assaults: Ranged assaults use a number of dice equal to the offense and defense of both the attacking and defending units' Ranged or
Magic values (chosen by the attacking unit) and function in the same way as close assaults except for the following ways"

Once this part done, I will be able to shar the french translation...

dutchmogul on Aug 10, 2012 said:

You're quite welcome :-)

Okay, ranged assaults... So, these are made using the Bow values or, if you choose, the Magic value (Magic can operate either as a close or ranged assault, the attacking unit gets the option). When you attack this way, you don't move to attack into the enemy's tile. Instead, you attack from your t
ile and they defend from their tile, so the attacker only gets tile advantage if they're shooting -from- the type they have an advantage in. Also, the attacker only gets assist re-rolls from allies who are adjacent to the guy they're attacking, not for the ones that are adjacent to themselves (unles
s they happen to be both, of course).

Otherwise, it works just like a close assault. If you attacked with Bow, you use your Bow OFF and DEF dice and the opponent has to use their Bow OFF and DEF dice in return (a lot of units don't have Bow OFF, which means they can't retaliate and makes ranged co
mbat a good option). Same with Magic, if you attack with Magic, the enemy has to defend/retaliate with their Magic value.

Ranged attacks still have to be adjacent to the opponent, but special abilities like the Archers Longbows allow for the model to be further away (that's it for this set, but th
ere will be more to come that modify the range of Bow and Magic attacks)

Does that help? Let me know if you need any more help, and if you get it translated could you send it my way? We would love to have a copy in french.

-Arian

dutchmogul on Aug 9, 2012 said:

UPDATE: New version of the rules available at the bottom of the downloads. I'll leave the old set up for a time, though I think this new version is the way to fly (only having play tested a couple of times, I can't be 100%). No more moving and making ranged attacks in the same turn. Also, Magic now has the option of counting as close or ranged assault. Made the Forest Witch's ability a little better too.

Spacexula on Aug 8, 2012 said:

You really should kickstarter this game :)

dutchmogul on Aug 8, 2012 said:

Hey, thanks. I'm definitely on board with that ;-) Working up a plan for that now. I have a few more sets I want to finish first and then I'll get the proposal together. I'm actually considering ways that I can get it produced and still keep it within the maker community.

joshmamo on Aug 2, 2012 said:

Where are the rules on your website?

I cant find them, i know im probably looking straight over them but I really cant see them.

Thanks

dutchmogul on Aug 2, 2012 said:

Oh, good question. Actually, we don't have the rules up on the blog quite yet, but they're available here. The PDF is to the left of our thread here along with all of the STL files for the pieces.

dutchmogul on Aug 2, 2012 said:

UPDATE: Both sides and the tile set are now available as full-plate prints! This can make things easier, let me tell you....

Jinja on Aug 1, 2012 said:

Oooh, I'm liking thingiverse's new STL renderer! Makes everything look a lot more professional. I wonder how long it will take to re-render the entire backlog?

dutchmogul on Aug 1, 2012 said:

Hah, I just noticed that too. Was slightly confused at first, but boy is it clean! I can't imagine it'll take too long. Do you think they actually have to manually change old entries?

Daid on Aug 1, 2012 said:

+1 warm fuzzy feelings (or that's what I get when people use the "I made one" button on my things)

I printed the king's army in black PLA on my Ultimaker. It shows some stringing, and the heads are troublesome because of the resident heat (I have not yet figured out the best settings for tiny things)

dutchmogul on Aug 1, 2012 said:

Maybe so, but wow! Totally awesome to see them printed by someone else! I'm sure you'll find the balance. Man, I'm just starting to get a handle on printing them in PLA now. Takes some doing, but its worth is. You'll have to let me know if you get a game in!

dutchmogul on Jul 31, 2012 said:

UPDATE: My game company is looking for a printable logo for Pocket-Tactics, so anyone interested should check out our blog. The winner will receive a free, hand-painted copy of the game from yours truly.

http://illgottengames.blogspot...

Daid on Jul 30, 2012 said:

I tried printing the beast stalker on my Ultimaker, but the details are so tiny that it doesn't seem to print very well. Do you have a close-up photo of your print?

dutchmogul on Jul 30, 2012 said:

I don't have any experience on Ultimakers, so I couldn't tell you how to go about it, but on the Makerbot I printed him at a .10 layer height. That was in ABS, and the results were okay (certainly passable as a board game piece) though I'm getting even better results in PLA. If you look at one of the most recent pics I added here (the one at the roots of a tree) you'll see the little dude front and to the right. He's a little lumpy, but I'll have some more renders soon.

dutchmogul on Jul 29, 2012 said:

UPDATE: So, on the 3rd version of the rules. Tightened some things up and added some expanded rules for water tiles.

dutchmogul on Jul 29, 2012 said:

Oh! And rules for returning units to your reserves through your base. Almost forgot that one....

cymon on Jul 28, 2012 said:

Somethings wrong with the cursed ranger. It won't slice and any attempts to fix it on netfabb fails. Is there some duplicated geometry in the original tinkercad file or something?

dutchmogul on Jul 28, 2012 said:

Hm, not that I'm aware of. I printed him out okay and have coped him since then. I'll take a look at him on Tinkercad and see if there's an issue....

dutchmogul on Jul 27, 2012 said:

Hey, everyone. So printed the original set in ABS, though I've recently switched over to printing in PLA and I'm having a rough go with some of these pieces. Anyone have any tips for getting clean PLA prints or, even better, has anyone printed these in PLA? Pocket-Tactics might be an ABS joint, though I'm always eager to go green where I can.

Daid on Jul 27, 2012 said:

I haven't printed these yet. I will soon, but the models have so many polygons that I found memory problems with Cura. I do like them so much, that I'm using them to write a my Project Planner tutorial with them: http://daid.github.com/Cura/?p...

And I print exclusively in PLA. General PLA tips are, print at a lower temperature (190C is possible) and cool your object during printing. Also, PLA acts different then ABS, so you might need to re-callibrate things.

cymon on Jul 24, 2012 said:

The moment I saw this I went "Ooh, I don't know what this is but I LIKE IT"!

Do you have rules yet? Who cares, I'm printing these off right now.

dutchmogul on Jul 24, 2012 said:

Awesome :-) Yeah, the rules PDF is at the bottom of the downloads here. There will be some revisions soon, but its fully playable.

Daid on Jul 24, 2012 said:

Holy, that's a lot of awesome from you at once! Great job!

dutchmogul on Jul 24, 2012 said:

Hey, thanks! Yeah, I did some work....

laird on Jul 24, 2012 said:

I'm trying to pack the pieces into plates for easier printing. To that end, I came up with an OpenSCAD script that does the right thing in preview, but gives tons of errors when compiling (required to generate an output STL). I know that OpenSCAD is picky about what STL it will read, so this approach might not work.

In case anyone cares to take a look, and help me figure it out, the script is:

s=25;

module tan_plate() {
for (i=[1:3]) {
assign (x=s*i) {
translate([x,0,0]) import("conscript15mm.stl");
}
}

for (i=[1:2]) {
assign (x=s*(3+i)) {
translate([x,0,0]) import("archer15mm.stl");
}

}

for (i=[1:1]) {
assign (x=s*(5+i)) {
translate([x,0,0]) import("shieldmaiden15mm.stl");
}
}

for (i=[1:2]) {
assign (x=s*(i)) {
translate([x,s,0]) import("spearman15mm.stl");
}
}

for (i=[1:2]) {
assign (x=s*(2+i)) {
translate([x,s,0]) import("swordsman15mm.stl")
;
}
}

for (i=[1:1]) {
assign (x=s*(4+i)) {
translate([x,s,0]) import("FireMage15mm.stl");
}
}

for (i=[1:1]) {
assign (x=s*(5+i)) {
translate([x,s,0]) import("caer.stl");
}
}

for (i=[0:1]) {
assign (y=s*(i)) {
translate([7*s,y,0]) import("village_tile.stl");
}

}

}

tan_plate();

Yeah, using a for loop to render one thing is silly, but it made the code a trivial copy/paste/edit. OpenSCAD lacking variables kinda sucks. :-)

Anyway, previewing works, but when I compile the geometry I get really awesome internal OpenSCAD errors like:

Rendering Polygon Me
sh using CGAL...
CGAL error in CGAL_Build_PolySet: CGAL ERROR: assertion violation!
Expr: check_protocoll == 0
File: ../libraries/install/include/CGAL/Polyhedron_incremental_builder_3.h
Line: 198

dutchmogul on Jul 24, 2012 said:

Actually, if you head over to Tinkercad and copy the model, you can make duplicates and arrange them however you need for a plate.

Daid on Jul 24, 2012 said:

Instead of trying to create a plate with OpenSCAD. You can use Cura's project planner to assemble plates: http://daid.github.com/Cura/

Jinja on Jul 24, 2012 said:

Looks great. Are these ABS? How did you paint them?

dutchmogul on Jul 24, 2012 said:

Thanks! Yeah, ABS, though I'll try my hand at PLA versions soon. Painted with water-based acrylics (Citadel and Vallejo Game Colour)

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