LED Desk Lamp
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Published on July 25, 2012
Description
This is the fully functional solder-free version of the snap-together mini lamp. Besides a 3D printer, all you need is some LEDs and some conductive thread like this: members.shaw.ca/ubik/thread/order.html
You can also buy a finished, customizable lamp through our etsy!
etsy.com/listing/154340925/3d-printed-led-desk-lamp?ref=shop_home_active
It's a work in progress because there are still some kinks to work out, and I'm not sure what LEDs I want to use yet.
I used v0.2 of the 3D-PCB library, which has tolerances calibrated for the Makerbot Replicator.
The "bulb" of this lamp is an array that can hold 6 LEDs, and it snaps into the peg that holds the lamp shade on.
Some of the arm pieces have an added peg so that the conductive thread can run down the arm to the base (on each side) without overlapping.
The base has been adapted to accommodate 2xAAA batteries and a toggle switch.
This model was made in blender, using the 3D-PCB openscad exports.
You can also buy a finished, customizable lamp through our etsy!
etsy.com/listing/154340925/3d-printed-led-desk-lamp?ref=shop_home_active
It's a work in progress because there are still some kinks to work out, and I'm not sure what LEDs I want to use yet.
I used v0.2 of the 3D-PCB library, which has tolerances calibrated for the Makerbot Replicator.
The "bulb" of this lamp is an array that can hold 6 LEDs, and it snaps into the peg that holds the lamp shade on.
Some of the arm pieces have an added peg so that the conductive thread can run down the arm to the base (on each side) without overlapping.
The base has been adapted to accommodate 2xAAA batteries and a toggle switch.
This model was made in blender, using the 3D-PCB openscad exports.
Instructions
Print one of each file, with the exception of the 'peg caps' (print lots of these).
The lamp is assembled much like the snap-together version -- assemble the arm in the same way. Once the arm is together, insert the LEDs into the bulb. It is a 2x3 array, with pairs of holes. When inserting an LED, make sure you insert the positive lead (the longer one) into the hole on the inside. This way, all the positive leads will emerge together in the center, and the negative leads will emerge together on the sides.
Once you've inserted the LEDs you want, bend the excess into the peg slots nearby. tweezers are helpful to get a good bend. Next, cut two long lengths of conductive thread -- a few feet should give you plenty of leeway for wrapping.
Detailed instructions for how to wrap can be found here: instructables.com/id/3D-Printed-Circuit-Boards-for-solder-free-printab/step3/Wrap-it-up/
Positive first: wrap up the positive peg on the top of the bulb, and insert a cap. Then wrap the negative pegs together to the remaining peg -- insert the peg caps to ensure a good hold. Thread the two threads out of the bulb towards the arm. In my prototype, I ran the positive out through the hole that snaps the arm to the shade, and the negative out the hole at the top of the shade -- but it doesn't really matter as long as it's not the same hole.. Do this while you insert the lamp shade and then snap the bulb into place.
There are then three sets of pegs down the arm structure. When you wrap your way down, make sure to flex the arm structure in many directions to make sure you leave enough slack to allow for a wide range of motion. When you reach the bottom of the arm, attach it to the base. Wrap the excess threads to their respective battery terminals, again leaving enough slack for the range of motion you want.
Cut two more lengths of thread, about 12 inches should be sufficient. Run one from one battery terminal across the switch. Tie a knot in the toggle, and run it to the other battery terminal. Again, for detailed instructions, see the instructables.
And you're done!
*EDIT* One of the pegs, going from the arm through the shade into the bulb, is originally printed at an upwards orientation, causing it to be prone to snapping. I have uploaded a modified version so it can be printed on it's side.
The lamp is assembled much like the snap-together version -- assemble the arm in the same way. Once the arm is together, insert the LEDs into the bulb. It is a 2x3 array, with pairs of holes. When inserting an LED, make sure you insert the positive lead (the longer one) into the hole on the inside. This way, all the positive leads will emerge together in the center, and the negative leads will emerge together on the sides.
Once you've inserted the LEDs you want, bend the excess into the peg slots nearby. tweezers are helpful to get a good bend. Next, cut two long lengths of conductive thread -- a few feet should give you plenty of leeway for wrapping.
Detailed instructions for how to wrap can be found here: instructables.com/id/3D-Printed-Circuit-Boards-for-solder-free-printab/step3/Wrap-it-up/
Positive first: wrap up the positive peg on the top of the bulb, and insert a cap. Then wrap the negative pegs together to the remaining peg -- insert the peg caps to ensure a good hold. Thread the two threads out of the bulb towards the arm. In my prototype, I ran the positive out through the hole that snaps the arm to the shade, and the negative out the hole at the top of the shade -- but it doesn't really matter as long as it's not the same hole.. Do this while you insert the lamp shade and then snap the bulb into place.
There are then three sets of pegs down the arm structure. When you wrap your way down, make sure to flex the arm structure in many directions to make sure you leave enough slack to allow for a wide range of motion. When you reach the bottom of the arm, attach it to the base. Wrap the excess threads to their respective battery terminals, again leaving enough slack for the range of motion you want.
Cut two more lengths of thread, about 12 inches should be sufficient. Run one from one battery terminal across the switch. Tie a knot in the toggle, and run it to the other battery terminal. Again, for detailed instructions, see the instructables.
And you're done!
*EDIT* One of the pegs, going from the arm through the shade into the bulb, is originally printed at an upwards orientation, causing it to be prone to snapping. I have uploaded a modified version so it can be printed on it's side.
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Bioluminescence
on
July 30, 2012
said:
This is a great model - especially with the non-soldering wiring system.
I did have some trouble printing and assembling it on my Thingomatic - the 'Arm Plate' print was too big as uploaded for the ToM, but I was able to split it into two plates using Meshlab and SketchUp. Also the 'Lamp Bulb' needed to be rotated 180 in ReplicatorG, as it's upsidedown by default.
Th
e version I printed is in black, but I swapped out a little glow-in-the-dark when I first started the lampshade print, to give it a glow in the dark rim.
CarryTheWhat
on
July 31, 2012
said:
This is great, thanks for the feedback!! Glow in the dark with UV LEDs, very slick! What kind of thread did you use? I notice no peg caps -- i've had tolerance issues before, or did you not need them? In the next iteration there will be a slightly different approach to the peg winding system.
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I ordered some thread from adafruit, can't wait to give it a try
Had a time getting the base sliced. Try Kisslicer if you have trouble. Slic3r (.7 -.9.9) was no good.