QU-BD OneUp/TwoUp Full Redesign

by Jeepguy42, published

QU-BD OneUp/TwoUp Full Redesign by Jeepguy42 Mar 17, 2014
0 Share
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Order This Printed View All Apps


Use This Project

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag.

Print Thing Tag

Thing Statistics

25538Views 3117Downloads Found in 3D Printers


I will be working on a direct drive version of this in the coming weeks, as I know the cross over belts setup can be touchy.

I am working on fully redesigning the TwoUp as a Utilimaker like design. Greatly increasing the build volume from 175x175x125mm (100x100x125mm for OneUp) to Y250 x X220 x Z200-230mm (if using the longer X and Y rods). The Z is a range only because it can depend on the extruder being used. The 230 would be for the E3D V6 hot end.
Note: This update can be done for the OneUp if your OneUp is reaching the 100x100x125 build area. the largest printed part should now fit in the build area.
The design will utilize these Existing Components:
(4) LM8LUU Bearings
(1) R1038-2RS Ball Bearing
(3) R6-2RS Ball Bearings
(4) Stepper Motors
(1) AnUbis Hot End assembly w/ Thermistor
(1) 3/8"-12 Acme Lead Screw Nut
(1) Printrboard
(1) 12V x 40mm Fan
(1) Power supply
(1) Brass Feeder Nut
(1) Extruder Tension Spring
Purchase Parts (these quantities include the reused parts):
(1) HAUHA8-4040E-W400-D400-H400 Aluminum Extrusion Kit MISUMI
(4) 8mm x 350mm Linear Rods
(2) 1602ZZ Bearing
(1) R1038-2RS Ball Bearing - Required for only one of the Extruder Options
(6) R6-2RS Bearings
(2) GT2 Belt @ 2000mm - Open
(6) #10-24 - 1 1/4" Flat Head Machine Screw
(12) #10-24 Hex Nut
(1) 1/4-20 x 1/2 Machine Screw - Required for only one of the Extruder Options
(12) 1/4-20 x 3/4" Machine Screw/Bolt
(2) 1/4-20 x 1" Counter Sunk Screw
(12) 1/4-20 Jam Nuts
(2) 1/4-20 Hex Nut

(3) 3/8"-12 Acme Lead Screw Nuts
(29) M3x16 Machine Screws
(1) M3x25 Machine Screw
(4) M3x30 Cap Screws
(2) M3x50 Machine Screws
(2) M3x60 Machine Screws
(21) M3 Hex Nuts
(8) M4x16 Counter Sunk Machine Screws
(4) M4x30 Machine Screws
(4) M4 Hex Nuts
(8) GT2 Pulley 20Teeth 5mm Bore
(3) 3/8"-12 ACME threaded Rod @ 13" to 13 1/2" long
(1) 1/4" x 16" x 20" Aluminum/Plexiglass/Glass Sheet
(1) .090" to 1/8" x 12" x 12" Aluminum Sheet
(10-12) .36 x .042 x .69 free length Compression Springs
(1) Extruder Tension Spring (the spring from a standard Retractable Gel Pen may work)
Optional - (2) SCS8UU - Pillow Block Linear Bearing (May be used for the Gantry slide Blocks to replace two of the LM8LUU bearings I noted as reused from the OneUp/TwoUp. Note if the Pillow blocks are used you will need (8) additional M4x16 Machine Screws to attach the pillow block to the Gantry Blocks.
Uploaded the Bowden I'm going to possibly use.
Uploaded the Direct Drive Version
Note they are a remix of StephanBuger's from his gantry redesign. Its uses all his part except the back cover which has been modified
Uploaded an Azteeg X3 Controler Box as well
Found a minor issue on the Appendix in my instructions. One of the dimensions showed to the wrong point after printing. I had to select it and move it to get it to render properly. It should now be correct.

So I've been trying to print a few calibration cubes but I'm currently running into an issue with the belt slipping on one of the pulleys for the X and Y axis causing an occasional shift diagonally across the bed. I'm going to reprint the gear plates as the version I'm using isn't the most current version on here so it doesn't have the counter boar for the nuts to sit in. This should stop the screws from slanting which I believe is causing the slipping I'm experiencing. other than that all movements are working well. I did see what looked like the bed wobbling while raising from all the way down to building position. I may need to put a guide or something at the motor as I believe the flexible coupler (since it only has two screws in it at 90 deg's) isn't sitting centered which is almost forcing the threaded rod to wobble as it turns (If someone knows of a way to correct wobble from a flexible coupler please comment in the comments so I can attempt a quick fix instead of adding/modifying parts). Once I get the slipping issue corrected I'll try printing a tall print and see what it does. I have an idea on how to correct the wobble but it will mean that 2-4 rods and linear bearings would be needed to counteract. I may be able to reuse the LM8LUU bearings but the rods from the OneUp may not work. The TwoUp has four 8mm x 290mm rods that aren't being used currently in this deisgn that could be reused while the OneUp only has two 8mm x 290mm rods that I may be able to reuse. I fear I may need four rods to correct and the remaining OnUp rods are only 200mm which if I add them will reduce the new build height of this printer. No matter a second pair of LM8LUU bearings would be needed for this fix but I may reduce them to just LM8UU bearings as these are smaller and you can order them from amazon (12 for $13.00).

I updated the parts list as well as added the PDF for the assembly instructions. I've gotten everything to move and work (mostly). I have not made any prints worth showing. Will tighten down the settings and possibly upload the firmware here. There is always room for improvement so feel free to note any changes you've done that might improve on the design.

Been playing with the Bowden setup and found that without the direct drive plate with the small piece of ptfe tubing for the E3D V6 hot end, the hot end itself tended to wiggle back and forth causing some error in the prints. I designed a plate that will need to be attached through the holes the direct drive would have attached through that has two M3x40 screws and 2 M3 Hex nuts that press down on the top of the hot end enough to secure it from wiggleing. I recommend finding some aluminum screws if you use the E3D hot ends (or E3D clones) to prevent from damaging the Aluminum they are made from. I have updated the instructions with this change. Added to the Part list pages and to Page 10 showing the Bowden Plate. I also added the Anubis filament guide to the downloadable files. I noticed it never attached. Be aware I haven't tested this Anubis guide so it may have issues that I'm not aware of. Use at your own risk


Most parts are defaulting in the Wrong plane. I will attempt to correct them before I move the project off work-in-progress

The instructions are in the PDF labeled as:

OneUp-TwoUp Full Redesign Instructions.pdf

Note: this document may change as I perfect the bugs. It may also call out information that isn't available as of yet (such as the updated Threaded Rod Bearing Bracket. Use these only as reference until I release this Thing from the Work In Progress state

More from 3D Printers

view more

All Apps

3D Print your file with 3D Hubs, the world’s largest online marketplace for 3D printing services.

App Info Launch App

Auto-magically prepare your 3D models for 3D printing. A cloud based 3D models Preparing and Healing solution for 3D Printing, MakePrintable provides features for model repairing, wall thickness...

App Info Launch App

Kiri:Moto is an integrated cloud-based slicer and tool-path generator for 3D Printing, CAM / CNC and Laser cutting. *** 3D printing mode provides model slicing and GCode output using built-in...

App Info Launch App
KiriMoto Thing App

With 3D Slash, you can edit 3d models like a stonecutter. A unique interface: as fun as a building game! The perfect tool for non-designers and children to create in 3D.

App Info Launch App

Print through a distributed network of 3D printing enthusiasts from across the US, at a fraction of the cost of the competitors. We want to change the world for the better through technology, an...

App Info Launch App

Quickly Scale, Mirror or Cut your 3D Models

App Info Launch App

3D Print a wide range of designs with Treatstock. Easy to use tools to get the perfect result. The global 3D printing network that connects you with high-quality and fast working print services nea...

App Info Launch App
Apr 4, 2016 - Modified Apr 4, 2016

i have a oneup v2 with a RAMPS board will this work with just 2 z motors

It can potentially work with just two motors. The issue that you may run into is that with how I have this designed the threaded rods aren't centered on the sides of the bed. you may be able to get it to work by doing one of the size lead screws and the back middle lead screw. The third lead screw could then be left off and it may work just fine.

I went with three as I wasn't sure if only two motors could lift and lower the entire bed on their own consistantly. It also would reduce any wobbling with three screws. You have a risk of some wobble with two but again, I've not tried it running just two screws

Hi, do I need a one up kit already or can I just build this from sourcing my own parts?


You can just source the parts. None of the OneUp/TwoUp kits MDF parts are reused. All the reused parts I list on the Thing details page are items that can easily be sourced.

I m having trouble with the extruder from one up.

The repetitor program is easy to use, problem is I couldnt figure out how well extruder is drawing filament in.
The filament feeder seems to have some problems.

Anyone has a 3d design that could maybe change it?
also, the z axis tilts to the right. any chance we could place the z in the center?

Stock extruder or the one referenced for this redesign? The best way to see if the stock extruder is feeding filament properly would be to mark the filament about 100mm away from the extruder. The mark should be from a known point (say a mark on your desk). Manually turn the extruder on and Feed 20mm of filament using repetier. Then measure to see if the filament actually moved the 20mm. If it didn't then you need to adjust the feed rate in the EEPROMS setting.

For the the Z-axis, Are you referring to the stock OneUp? It does canter leaver but it shouldn't be that horrible. Is it possible to center it. No, as the bed will travel through the screw. The best fix for the stock OneUp canter leaving is the Pulley mod. Take a look at the forums at http://www.fabric8r.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?23-OneUp-and-TwoUp-Tech-Support as thats where we've posted a lot of useful tips (I'm not from Q3D but I've been part of the OnUp/TwoUp campaign since it was launched on Kickstarter, I even made the initial build instructions for Q3D).

I studied the market of 3d printers, one of the best runner ups is da vanci 3d . What is bad is it has a o.5 kg spool and a chip in side.
You cant reroute a 1kg spool out side of the o.5 holder as the weight of the o.5 would tell chip that it was empty.
And Also , I liked tiko uni 3d printer. i think that is by far much more economically efficient.
Any thoughts ?

Hello there. I problably miss it but... where is the instructions PDF? I'd like to read more about your project.

Also, this acme lead screw thing, by any chance could be modified to use standard M8 rod and nut? Because lead screw is somewhat big cost here in Brazil.


BTW I don't know if you've checked back lately but the PDF instructions have been uploaded.

Jul 29, 2015 - Modified Jul 29, 2015
Jeepguy42 - in reply to 3runo

There will be. I haven't released them yet since I'm having issues with the Z-Axis the way I had it and I'm still working on trying to tie it down. I think I have a fix but I'm waiting on a flexible coupler to arrive before I can test it. If it works I'll post my PDF instructions for everyone to use if they wish to use them.

http://lerchetech.dk/?p=286 - Here's what I'm doing with the Z-axis :-)


http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:817396 - Printed some feets for mine.
Also, I altered a lot around the Z-axis.

I'm using three nema 17, each with M5 threaded rod. Along with that is three 8mm linear rods to keep alingment correct.
All I need to do now is make the Z-bed and I should be printing! :-)


Flex feet for 40mm T-slot
by Lerche

How much does it cost to make and how much filament does it use

Apr 11, 2015 - Modified Apr 11, 2015
Jeepguy42 - in reply to Patdubs

Right now I think I'm at a little under $400 if you have a OneUp or TwoUp already. But I'm not sure if I've updated it since the other small tweaks I've done. It shouldn't be higher than that unless you have to buy stepper motors, hot ends, and the control board.

As for plastic. I'll have to drop it all back into Repetier to get you and estimated number

http://youtu.be/WQEV4AzUZRU - Here's to you Jeepguy! Keep making progress!! :-)

Very cool. I'm at the same point currently. The new Extruder Slide Plate, Bearing Clamp, and Belt Block files should remove your need for the zip ties and the extra length of belt at the top. Still trying to get the rods to stay plumb. Are you seeing issues in your Z-Axis raising and lowering or are you not their yet? I resin cast the Z-Axis motor Bracket after printing it and it seems very strong. I'm going to try and resin cast some new brackets for the Z-Axis rods hopefully next week when I have a break from school.

Yeah, I know, but I took some time to make myself a watercooled full-metal-printer-head, after my J-head began to leak.
So now I can print some new parts :-)

I'm currently not having any movements on the bed, as I still need bearings and the closed Z-belt.
Apart from that the printed parts also seems very strong. I'm sure they'll hold up very nicely!

But now I'm of to test my thermocouple for the extruder I'm making for this machine.
Btw, have you got a name for it?


Looking at your design of the GT2 belts that has the crossover and also a 90 degree to the other side, it looks like it will be too long to have proper tension without the belt flaying about and rubbing on the other belt which is pretty close. This will lead to premature wear on the sides of the belts. Maybe good to rework that instead.

I actually have no rubbing on mine currently. I'll be able to completely tell when I attach my new Slide plate (already in the thing files) which I got in with the new version of the Threaded Rod Holder brackets. This is a standard CoreXY setup (which mine isn't the largest I've seen) and the cross over point is always issue, that I've seen. Tension should not be an issue but I'll know more when I can finally sit down and install all the new version parts.

you may want to check out the design from Shapeoko 2 which is actually a CNC open design from Inventables or Gigabot from Re3D. Both these uses the same concept of the design. Not too sure if your design has dual motor on the y axis to move the gantry back and forth. The design that the 2 system uses is for the controller board to simultaneously move the 2 motors that directly drives the gantry motion. Each one of the belts are only running parallel to the direction of the gantry movement without the need to go 90 degrees. I am using a makerbot 2X also uses the same method of the setup except that the motor is only on one side while the other side is just the rod and carrier.

Hope this helps.

Jan 7, 2015 - Modified Jan 7, 2015
Jeepguy42 - in reply to khremlar2

Those designs are using an H-Bot design. There is actually a flaw with the H-bot design in that it uses one belt that actually has the ability to "torque" the frame cause prints that are requiring precision to fall out of spec. While it can be pretty accurate, the problem is the way the belt is tensions that basically makes the frame of the machine try and twist. The CoreXY belt system that I designed is the improved system that started with the H-Bot and corrected this issue. The cross over is required. The most I'll have to do, is if I see the point where the belts cross over, start to rub, I can raise one side slightly at the gear brackets to compensate.

See the link below for more info on difference with the H-Bot design and how the CoreXY corrects the issue


Read through the link. An interesting application on force cancellation. Hope that you can work out all the kinks in the system and sell some models...:) Good Luck.

How would I go about building this? Im highly interested in building this

I'm currently still working out some items with this. I've put a partial bill of materials in the description. If you already own a OneUp or TwoUp from QU-BD then you won't need some of the parts (including the stepper motors and the electronics) but if you don't you'll need a few extra parts. I'll have a more detailed Bill of Materials needed to construct this when I'm positive I've got it fully working.

dont be afraid of jb weld.there are two versions. a quick set good for 2kpsi and the other for just under 4k psi. i am going to try to cast my tensioner for the extruder on the qu-bd as i broke them. just need a suitable casting silicon.

I would use that if it wasn't for the size of the parts I'm going to be making. Doesn't seem cost effective, and you shouldn't mix from different production batches (if somethings off it can cause weaknesses in the casting).

yes it depends on size of item. for small items though such as the tension arms on the two-up i was able to cast 4 with half of the tubes. id use a different pourable with glass or fiber

Still trying to try down the exact resin I'm going to use. There's a lot of options out there and since I've never done resin casting it may be a trial and error thing until I'm sure I've got it right.

check out devcon. they have several epoxies that would work. one thing i noticed with the jbweld is the air bubbles so you will need a vibration table. good luck. let us know how it works out.

If you wanna work with me, just let me know, alright?

Also , where does the metalic-like parts on picture come from? Is it 3D printed with a metal printer or buyed at a grocery store ?

Another thing im afraid of is that the piece can melt due to the fact that you could use ABS

I was thinking about making another redesign wish would be a cheaper version of this who could be printed completely with pla. I could help you, just send picture of the plan :P

Dec 23, 2014 - Modified Dec 23, 2014
Jeepguy42 - in reply to WybowXD

Metal like parts? If your talking about the metal studs in the image of the belt cross over, those are just simple countersunk screws.I used them as they are cheap and would be strong enough to handle the forces of the belts moving along them as you have to have a good amount of tension in the belts for the CoreXY configuration to work without introducing any slop.

Not sure on your statement on the ABS. I used PLA for all the parts except for the lower Z-Axis brackets due to strength requirements. Not because of melting issues.

I'm not apposed to making this cheaper. I tried to keep as much cost as I could out of this as possible. In fact the most expensive item is the extruded frame. I believe I had the part cost down to about $400 but there's only so far down in cost you can go when dealing with extrusion and precision ACME Lead screws and Lead screw nuts which as made with precision machinery (cost). I may be able to change some parts out but the big items are what cost the most. Before hardware your already looking at $288 in the frame, Pulleys, Linear Rods, ACME Lead Screws and Lead Screw Nuts. You could reuse the TwoUps Rods and reduce your build area which could save you $56.84 in rods but it might mean some redesign of parts and a smaller frame to accommodate (which again will save you cost). The cost may be cheaper but you loose the size which is the one of the key points of this redesign (Larger builder Area).

can you print it in pla? because I dont wanna go to a fablab

also , im printing with the two up

Everything can be printed in PLA with the exception of the lower angles that the Z-Axis belts run through. The option I'm currently figuring out is that you can print the parts for the Z-Axis in PLA and the using a casting kit (like http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/super-casting-kit-580068/) and some resin one could create a mold of the lower parts and then cast them in a resin to make them stronger.

Another option which worked quicker for all the lower parts except the Z-Axis motor bracket is that you could purchase some aluminum angle and cut and drill the angle to create the Side Bearing Holders and the Center bearing holder. The Z-Axis motor has a lot of complicated holes in it that prevent it from being cut out of angle but casting may still work. I'm waiting on the part to be printed for me and then I'm going to try some different resins to create it.

Hi Jeepguy.

I tried printing the Z-axis motor bracket on the side. Seems to hold together quite nicely!
Also, no warping. (I'm using UHU glue-stick with 60 degree celcius heated bed, printing with PETG/T-glase)
I can't break it with my hands at all, but I'll see how things are when it's all put together.


Thanks for the update. I just got the new Z-Axis motor in from a friend of mine. gonna make a mold of it before I test it. He recommended printing the angle parts on edge (in a "V" shape) as the layers will then be holding each other in a way that should distribute the forces across them and shear forces shouldn't have any affect.

Hi. Yeah, that's exactly what I did :)

also , you are printing a printer with a printer

That's the fun thing about 3D printers. You can print a printer (mostly) with a printer :)

I dont wanna be the first to do it because i wana see if it work D:

Hi Jeepguy.
Could you provide an image of the belt assembly, specifically around the high/low section (where the belt crosses and the parts with the GT2 pulleys are put on the corners?)


Added a few pictures. Note that the belt is a little loose currently as I'm waiting on the new z-axis bracket to fix the Z before I reprint my gantry piece with the newer version so I haven't tightened the X/Y belts fully yet

Hi Jeepguy,

I maybe new to 3D Printing but I noticed on you last update of 12/13 that you were having an issue with the Z Bracket Breaking. ABS will only hold for so long as it is a 3D Printed Part. I'm Originally a Cast and Mold maker. I would honestly suggest that you make a mold for the Bracket and Cast the Part to Fix the issue. As a Single Solid Piece of Plastic (Note: I normally use High grade Resin, yet there are plenty of Options with a high PSI tolerance) normally works better; as I have discovered with my current Two Up.

Again I am fairly new to 3D printing but when it comes to part replacement in plastics; I recommend you cast it or have someone cast it for you. Again if you cast it you can also have the piece made of metal if you know someone with a Kiln.

Hope this at least helps your issue!

yeah I'm thinking about doing that actually. Its a part that has some force working on it since it has to turn 3 screws using a belt and I don't want it to break. What I'll probably do is have it made from ABS make a Resin mold of it and try the ABS version. If it doesn't work I'll make a resin cast of it and try it. Waiting for some time to talk to the guy who helped me with another part that broke a few months back but he's currently in school and may or may not be able to help me out so I may just go onto makexyz.com and see if someone local to me can print it for me.

Hi Jeepguy.

In the picture you're using GT2 pulleys on countersunk inverted screws in the "corners" right?
Are you using some sort of bearing or something else to make it run smooth?
I'm asking as the idlers is something of a debate online, and some use bearings, some use GT2 pulleys on bearings.

Can you clarify?

Not seeing anything yet. Still trying to find a better method to tension the XY belts as I'm not getting them as tight as I'd like (seeing slipping on the pulley's). They seem to turn just fine for me but without getting the final tension on them I won't know. If I see anything I'll probably recommend a Nylon/Teflon spacer to put inside the pulley to allow it to slide/spin better

Yeah, the friction between the screw ans the pulley will probably be bad. I thought of using tiny MR85zz with a flange in an 8mm bore pulley. But then I would need tiny washers, and those are expensive/hard to find. Then I thought of using 695zz bearings (5mm bore, outer 13mm, height 4mm), with a flangw. Two of those on top of each other, with a standard M5 washer(has an outer dia of approx. 9.5mm where I get them), in between. So I mofified the gantry to accept to M5 countersunk screws. I'll see how it goes with the pulley teeth, and if I can get the tension it needs. Regards, Lerche

Dec 1, 2014 - Modified Dec 1, 2014
Jeepguy42 - in reply to Lerche

Let me know. I haven't been able to touch my printer due to finals in class and then the holidays. If it works I'll try modifying the main files to work. Also, The gantry currently should use #10 screws which are .190" which is slightly smaller than a standard M5 (.197") so in theory you shouldn't have needed to adjust the hole size unless it was just not printing properly.

Hi Jeppguy.

As a follow-up on the topic about the friction with the GT2 pulleys in the corners, I have this image to show you:
Here I am using 695ZZ with a flange (F695ZZ), with a washer sandwiched in between the bearings.
This fits the purpose quite nicely, and the belt runs smooth and without friction.


thanks for the follow up. I did order some of the 695ZZ bearings and will probably go ahead and change out the pulley's. I'm not seeing an issue with the pulley's but doing some research, a lot of people are when it comes to the CoreXY design.

Hey Jeepguy. The new motor/gear plates you designed, what size screws are supposed to fit in for the aluminium? I would personally use M8 if possible, but it seems like you designed it dor M4 or M5? I'd also like to know what software you design this in, and if you will the original files available, as I had to do some modifying to be able to fit my NEMA17's in the motor mount. Thanks in advance. Regards, Lerche

I designed them for M4's. M8 would have been overkill so I used two M4's which should be plenty strong. Surprised you had to modify the motor plates for the NEMA 17 motors as my NEMA 17's fit just fine. I did have to open the holes up a little but that's because I intentionally undersized the holes so that a proven bit can be used to drill them open and your guaranteed that the screw will fit after drilling.

I normally use Autodesk Inventor for my designs but this one was done using AutoCAD. Once I've tested everything I'll export them as IGES and STEP files so people can modify them as they want. I'm looking to finish initial testing tonight when I get home from work which is really just straightening one of the Threaded rods and screwing in the threaded rod bearings to the frame and hooking up the belts. Then its firmware.

Hi Jeepguy.

Perfect, M4 it is.
the Nema17 didn't fit because of the hightened aluminium aeound the axle. So I edited the STL in openSCAD to fit my needs.
If you need testing, I am assembling a frame this afternoon, and will print the rest of the parts I need now.

I saw your update about PLA, so I'm going for PETG, as I really like to be able to do stuff while printing, and not having to smell the bad odours from ABS.

But anyway, mine's coming along yours.

Did you use Tr8x8 acme rods for the Z axis?
Or regular threaded rods?


I used precision ground ACME 3/8-12 Lead screws on mine. Was debating using some M8 rods but figured I'd want to keep the costs down as much as I could so people wouldn't have to by 3 rods and 3 lead screw nuts.

I'm not happy with the PLA as I do prefer the strength but I've heard that for printer parts its not that big of a deal. I do recommend the PolyMax PLA from polymakr as its a very strong PLA material that's ABS equivalent without the smell from it. I haven't yet printed with PETG so I'm not sure on the comparison of PolyMax PLA to it.

Comments deleted.
Nov 6, 2014 - Modified Nov 6, 2014

I would think that you would want to balance that platform by creating an equilateral triangle between the three screws. That would place the 2 side screws 87% of the distance to the blank side as opposed to 50% (in the center).

Nov 6, 2014 - Modified Nov 6, 2014
Jeepguy42 - in reply to ruggb

From an engineering stand point, if this was going to be supporting a lot of weight, or would have external forces acting on it, I would. For the purpose/function of the machine it shouldn't gain or loose anything with the Isosceles Triangle that the screws form. It should be stable enough. When I really get into the testing of it I'll be able to confirm but I shouldn't be a problem. Ideally I'd want Four screws but I'm trying to keep the cost down a bit

Would you post more information about the motor-belt-pulley system to drive the 3 Z-Axis rods? A drawing or photo would be great!

I posted the picture of the Z-Axis from the instructions. If you need want more you may have to wait until Saturday or Sunday when I build the Printer and verify my instruction will work they way they are laid out/described

I have a PDF set of instructions that I'm making for building the Upgraded 3D printer. I'll post them when I build the Printer (hopefully Saturday Evening). I'm hesitant to post them early as I don't want something to not work in how I described it and then needing to adjust them drastically and then have someone ruin the extruded frame (which isn't cheap). I'll pull out the image of the belt and pulley system and attach it shortly as a reference for now

Hey Jeepguy.

I'm going to do the Z-Axis soon, and I can't seem to find the image you're referring to in this comment. Could you upload or send to me?

Thank you.


Jan 6, 2015 - Modified Jan 6, 2015
Jeepguy42 - in reply to Lerche

Well, that's odd... I don't remember removing it. I'll go ahead and attach my instruction sheets as they currently are (note they may change).

Note, the Z axis may have an updated part that I haven't uploaded yet as I just got in the new piece from a friend (the part is an updated version of the Threaded Rod Bearing Bracket). I wasn't happy with trying to get the screws in the way that bracket was oriented.

I'm going to be resin casting the Z-Axis Motor bracket so that I have a copy of it and will be resin casting this new piece so I can quickly test a few alterations if needed. The image shows a Four screw connection for this bracket but I may do a two bolt so that it won't require any additional drilling.

I just looked through the PDF. Nice work!!

I had to alter some of the files you have uploaded to let the belt run with catching the plastic of the moving Y axis. I'll do a mix of your files when I have it all tested.

I also moved the Z-axis rods further down the Y axis, as per the comment above about the forces in the bed. I did a DXF of my design, but also added the designed holes you did.
I added support for a 200x200 bed, but also 200x300 and 300x300mm, so everything is accounted for. Unfortunately I work in mm, so the holes around the rod nut, was spaced with 30mm. I can adjust it and send it to you if you'd like.

I still like the design you did, and I rrally look forward to make this print :)


Wow, if your multi extruder works I'll make it as well!
Is it supported by the electronics and firmware?

Oct 19, 2014 - Modified Oct 19, 2014
Jeepguy42 - in reply to BRAINDISIS

If your using a printrboard then no. The board only has a port for 1 Hotend and 1 Extruder Stepper Motor. But if you've upgrade the board to something other than a printrboard such as the Azteeg X3 which supports 2 hotends and and 2 extruder stepper motors then it will work. There are other boards that support 4 Hotends and 4 Extruder Stepper motors.

Well I don't really know, but I just bought a OneUp and... shouldn't they all have the same electronics?

The standard board you get with the OneUp and TwoUp printers doesn't support a second hotend. They only have one stepper motor connector and one connector for the hot end. There is an expansion board you can by for the standard electronics board:


but I'd be hesitant on using it for those who have recieved the red printrboards as they are a cheaply made version of the printrboard which may not be able to handle the extra current. I replaced my original electronics with a Azteeg X3 board from panucatt which supports 2 hot ends and 2 stepper motors.

Or if your feeling really up for it they also have a Azteeg X3 Pro which supports 5 Extruders and 5 hot ends.

Well I'm still waiting for it, should come in around 2 weeks I hope.
Thank you for your answer and your project, I now think I won't proceed with it, too much risk.
If something, later on, I'll buy another printer :D

So basically it is a complete new printer because the old design even looked odd on the drafting table...

Correct. This design removes all the MDF and gives it a much more stable build area. The 3 Screw design should keep any wobbling from the Z axis from occurring. Plus the original One/TwoUp are built on a T-Shape design. This design is common in CNC's but most CNC machines have a base that is 1-2 times in length as they are tall for stability which the One/TwoUp doesn't do and actually teeters on the threshold of stability the way they are currently designed.

If your part of the forums and you've seen ddegonge888 3UP its similar to his but the difference between ours isn't just that I'm using the 4040 extrusion while his uses a 2020 extrusion , but this design will utilize more of the internal space of the extruded frame as the majority of the parts are in line with the frame where in his quite a few sit inside the frame itself.

Comments deleted.

Hey Jeepguy, I've been having that same stoping issue as you've had. I'm 99% sure it is a Repitier host problem, if you buy a cheap micro sd card and print from that it works fine!

Unfortunately I was only able to test print once using Mater control before my power wires fried themselves (first attempt heating the heated bed to the 70deg C). My replacement wires and connector should be coming in today so I should be able to hopefully start printing again. We'll see. I also received some Carbon fiber PLA as well and I'm debating whether or not I try the next bunch of parts with it as I know they will be stronger.
Sorry everyone this has been taking so long to get the parts printed. between work and school I only have so many days I can print and the TwoUp doesn't seem to want to print at high speeds for me. Hopefully my Second 3D printer should be coming in the next month and I can start printing parts a little faster.

Ah yikes, that's not good! Well it looks pretty nice so far!
Would you mind sharing the files for how you used the belts to link up all the z-axis screws..or maybe some better pictures? For my rebuild, I really want to use 2 z-screws to allow for people to use the hefty heated bed, and your design looks really solid. As a bonus, I can print and test it and it would end up being similar to your design, so you could get feedback about it possibly before you even print it lol!

yeah... I think we've found the issue with the wiring... It looks like for us who got the first batch of TwoUps the ATX power cable was short changed by the vendor QU-BD used which is why I'm assuming the predeeding batches have different cables.
Basically it looks like the vendor used 22AWG wire and labeled them as 18AWG. I just got my new 18AWG wires in and they are substantially thicker. I am offically printing again. I will post those files shortly. I'm hoping to print those brackets next

This looks like it is going to be an amazing upgrade to the OneUp. I just ordered mine this week and I am so excited. I want to as would it be possible for this design to use the OpenBeam kits? I am not sure if the dimensions of the Open beam are the same as the kit you have specified in the parts list.

Not sure I know which ones are the OpenBeam Kits your referring too. Can you post a link so I can check. The parts I'm designing to be printed have to be able to slide into a T-Slot Aluminum Extrusion as thats the end connection I modeled. If the Open Beam Kits have T-Slot Extrusions then they should work but I can guarantee it without seeing what the kit is.

I am VERY interested in this. I have a OneUp that I just assembled last night and I am very not happy with the build quality. It sags on one side, it is going to require a lot of work to get it level, and I'm just not happy with it. I'd love to take my current parts and rebuild it to make something better that I will be happy with. I'm not the best at CAD, but I can help assemble an instruction manual when you have a working prototype and I can start printing the pieces/ building the redesigned OneUp.

That's cool if you want to. I made the Instructions for the
Current Printers so Its not that hard for me to do them as well... The
down side to this design is it is costly. The majority of it is going to
be printed parts but as you can see from the parts list in the Thing Info, there are quite a few things that have to be purchased for this to work. The majority being fasteners but there are things like the belts and the pulley's and the frame itself which are purchased. I mean technically you could print the extrusions and glue them together but that would be a lot of plastic ;)

I'm still making some minor tweaks but for the most part its just me printing that parts and testing them on the frame I have on hand.