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Mario Posed - UPSAMPLED

by DarkAlchemist, published

Mario Posed - UPSAMPLED by DarkAlchemist Jul 31, 2012

Description

This is a copy that I redid (a lot of triangles had to be redone in the original and a lot of work had to be done in the lower ankle area and shoes which took all of the last three days to fix. I made them better I think but far from perfect.) of the model from 7777773
thingiverse.com/thing:25381

What I did to this model was fix the triangles, remade a bunch of spots and smoothed it out so people could make a really nice high quality print of Mario.

Recent Comments

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Thanks. I did a lot of repairing on the original to smooth it out by hand. It was a fun project for me and your print looks really good.

Very nice 3-D model printed it. awesome

20.06.2013 I have printed it with MB2X and Makerware 2.2.1 with Makerwareslicer in medium setings (RAFT and SUPPORTS). All looks really nice, only the top of the shoes is FLAT (?). What can possible be the problem??? Anybody have a idea, please comment. Thanks.

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Instructions

This is not a very hard object to print so just set your printer up for a high quality print and print away.

I have added a repaired copy that closed the holes using Netfabb Basic.

Comments

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Rand on Feb 25, 2014 said:

Very nice 3-D model printed it. awesome

Anonymous on Feb 25, 2014 said:

Thanks. I did a lot of repairing on the original to smooth it out by hand. It was a fun project for me and your print looks really good.

rymannphilippe on Jun 20, 2013 said:

20.06.2013 I have printed it with MB2X and Makerware 2.2.1 with Makerwareslicer in medium setings (RAFT and SUPPORTS). All looks really nice, only the top of the shoes is FLAT (?). What can possible be the problem??? Anybody have a idea, please comment. Thanks.

BGilman on Sep 19, 2012 said:

Getting a lot of errors like -
[19:11:14] This should never happen, there is a hole in the triangle mesh, each edge should have two faces.
[19:11:14] 553126 [368326] [184831, 184833]
[19:11:14] Something will still be printed, but there is no guarantee that it will be the correct shape.
[19:11:14] Once the gcode is saved, you should check over the layer with a z of:
[19:11:14] 4.7

This is in Skeinforge 50, usually this means that there will be small holes in the model somewhere.  Anyone know how to properly slice this?

DarkAlchemist on Sep 23, 2012 said:

I repaired those holes via Netfabb Studio Basic (it's free) and it was in 3 places it seems and I uploaded the repaired version just now.

DarkAlchemist on Sep 23, 2012 said:

 I wonder where those holes are?  I think they are on the side of his face but that was what Blender showed me and it does print it seems.

7777773 on Sep 3, 2012 said:

Support is helpful for the left hand, mostly.

Anonymous on Sep 2, 2012 said:

Wow, good info. Thanks for posting this! I was underwhelmed with the programs previously suggested to me. Can't wait to dive into it tomorrow.

wgss on Aug 8, 2012 said:

Support?

DarkAlchemist on Aug 8, 2012 said:

I did a little asking around and was told the support is done at the slicer level most of the time so I would suggest that if you need it check the documention of the slicer program you are using.

Cheers. :)

DarkAlchemist on Aug 8, 2012 said:

Ask 7777773 as his was the original plus I am not 100% certain support is needed on his elbow/right arm as it is small and with proper cooling I don't think it is.

7777773 on Aug 1, 2012 said:

Wow, very nice! Makes me wish I hadn't put off adding the eyes and M logo to his hat.

Would you mind sharing your workflow for upsampling the model? The method I've been using tends to lose a lot of detail and the results look slightly melted.

DarkAlchemist on Aug 1, 2012 said:

Well, this model had a lot of issues where I listed plus each temple. I will say 5 people downloaded the wrong model before I caught my mistake a few minutes later and uploaded the real version (theirs still have the wonky temples of the previous version).

Alright on to the workflow.

1) Load the model into Blender

2) Hit tab

3) Hit Alt J

4) Save the now MOSTLY detriangled model.

5) Load into Cinema4D.

6) Hit U/U for good measure.

7) Find all of the triangles that remain and get them into quads by hand.

8) Hypernurbs subdivision editor/renderer of 2 to 4 (depends on Model).

9) Cinema4D Phong Tag the model.

Now the manual stuff begins

10) Slap the model into the Hypernurbs and see where the wonkiness remains (if any) and fix them by hand. This includes using Hypernurbs weighting as needed.

11) Select the object

12) Select Children.

13) Current state to object.

14) Select the new object that was created with step 13

15) Select Children

16) Connect Objects + Delete

17) Export to STL

18) Open the file (not merge) from step 17 to be sure it looks good.

Step 10 is what took me 3 days because a lot of triangles remained in the shoes and pant's cuffs so I basically had to remake the pants cuffs and shoes.

The only real issue I had was the use of triangles as they are to be avoided at all costs. Some can't be, of course, but when the entire model is in triangles it is really bad and will make it so much harder to work right plus I found a lot of overlapping polygons (cuf to shoes and temple areas) that drove the Hypernurbs crazy so I had to rebuild them into connected quads and you have what you see.

I wish I could eliminate Blender from the workflow but I have never found as good of a script, or built in, triangle to quads for Cinema4D.

If you add the M and the eyes to your original model I will be glad to see if I can upsample it as well. :)

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