Printrbot Spring Loaded Bed Leveling System
Description
This is a mod to the existing Y Bar Ends on the Printrbot that allows you to adjust each of the four corners of your heated bed with the easy adjustment of only 4 screws. It allows for you to adjust the bed height on all four corners within thousandths of an inch to the tip of your extruder. The nice thing is there is no printing involved as it utilizes the existing print bed mounts.This mod also utilizes extra hardware from the Printrbot so there is no need to buy any parts except for two small springs.
Instructions
Hardware Required:
4 - Y Bar Ends
12 - #6 Washers (same ones used with Printrbot LC Kit)
4 - #6-32 Square Nuts (same ones used with Printrbot LC Kit)
2 - 7.14 x 23.83 x .071 mm Stainless Compression Spring (SC-411 at Ace Hardware) **These will be cut in half.**
4 - #6-32 Hex Nuts (Same ones that are used with Printrbot LC kit)
4 - #6-32 2" Bolts
4 - #6-32 1/2" Standoffs
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Procedure:
1. Remove existing Y-Bar Ends (X4).
2. Epoxy or hot glue square nut onto top of existing Y Bar End (X4 as shown in picture). Ensure proper alignment and allow to dry.
3. Install hardware in sequence shown (see pics for more details):
From top to bottom:
#6-32 2" Bolt>>#6-32 Washer>>LC Bed>># 6-32 Washer>>1/2 of a Spring>>#6-32 Washer>> #6-32 Square Nut glued to top of Y Bar End>>#6-32 Hex Nut
4. Add length to the Y-Axis COG belt tensioner mounts with a small standoff so it doesn't hit the bottom of the Printrbot.
VOILA! You can now adjust your beds accuracy within only thousandths of an inch as I did! No more need for adding washers or shims under neath your print bed for added height! I added the Y Bar Ends file on this document so you have easy access to the file if you need to print out some new ones.
Show me your version of this!!
4 - Y Bar Ends
12 - #6 Washers (same ones used with Printrbot LC Kit)
4 - #6-32 Square Nuts (same ones used with Printrbot LC Kit)
2 - 7.14 x 23.83 x .071 mm Stainless Compression Spring (SC-411 at Ace Hardware) **These will be cut in half.**
4 - #6-32 Hex Nuts (Same ones that are used with Printrbot LC kit)
4 - #6-32 2" Bolts
4 - #6-32 1/2" Standoffs
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Procedure:
1. Remove existing Y-Bar Ends (X4).
2. Epoxy or hot glue square nut onto top of existing Y Bar End (X4 as shown in picture). Ensure proper alignment and allow to dry.
3. Install hardware in sequence shown (see pics for more details):
From top to bottom:
#6-32 2" Bolt>>#6-32 Washer>>LC Bed>># 6-32 Washer>>1/2 of a Spring>>#6-32 Washer>> #6-32 Square Nut glued to top of Y Bar End>>#6-32 Hex Nut
4. Add length to the Y-Axis COG belt tensioner mounts with a small standoff so it doesn't hit the bottom of the Printrbot.
VOILA! You can now adjust your beds accuracy within only thousandths of an inch as I did! No more need for adding washers or shims under neath your print bed for added height! I added the Y Bar Ends file on this document so you have easy access to the file if you need to print out some new ones.
Show me your version of this!!
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trth
on
October 1, 2012
said:
Is the board still secure during rapid movements, or are your tolerances being effected by having the board raised like that?
roboto
on
September 28, 2012
said:
It is better idea to level the heating plate.
mpearson88
on
October 11, 2012
said:
So, just found this post after having done this mod to the heating plate. I need to get stiffer springs still, but it went very quick in leveling. My main board is slightly warped, as is the heating pad. I currently have the heating plate clipped to a piece of glass and then under that have the leveling springs off the board. So far so good! I may upgrade to a 1050 aluminum plate as others have done.
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License
Printrbot Spring Loaded Bed Leveling System by slalomracer382 is licensed under the Attribution - Share Alike - Creative Commons license.

overkill. Simply put some rubber betweem the bed and the bar ends to gain some milimeters of play.