Loading

This Thing may contain NSFW content. Please Log In to view.

Colt 1911 prop - Sliced

by DoctorWoo, published

Colt 1911 prop - Sliced by DoctorWoo Mar 24, 2014
Share

Thing Apps Enabled

Order This Printed View All Apps

Contents

Tags

Use This Project

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag.

Print Thing Tag

Thing Statistics

Views Downloads Found in Props

Summary

First off: NOT A WORKING GUN.
Second: CHECK YOUR LAWS!
This is a prop gun! There are no moving parts, and there is no way to use it as a weapon (shy of beating people. But don't do that. It's rude). There may also be laws in your area (federal, state, and local) that may apply to making, selling/giving, and using these. I have stuck a link at the bottom for this.

With those two cleared, please PLEASE show some love to the original model by mikearnold! This took me mere moments to split compared to the time he plowed into the model!

This was sliced using Netfab, and the STL files were repaired using Netfabs online cloud services. Each of the STL's are small enough to be printed on most RepRap's and even some of the smaller printers. The largest part is the hammer at 7cm x 7cm x 2cm.

The parts can be glued with any glue that will work on ABS, or welded using acetone/ABS juice (which is how I did it).

As a note: muzzle_2 has no "fixed" tag to it. Netfabb could not repair that STL, but it printed just fine as is.
And a second note: chamber2 has an odd hunk missing from it. It doesn't seem to show up in models/STL, but it ends up going missing during the print. Using ABS paste will fill this in lickty split.

PSS: Thanks to Terminus for pointing this out: due to US laws, I would HIGHLY recommend you paint the barrel orange as to comply with the US Code 5001. Details on code 5001.
All though this is a federal law that you should adbid by, you should also check your local laws. If you need to, call your local police station, or the police station of the place you plan to show this off at to ensure you are not stepping on any legal toes.

Instructions

1)Create Gcode that works for you
2)Print one of each part
3)Glue the parts using ABS juice (recommended) or an ABS safe glue. I would highly recommand gluing parts 1 and 2 together, then gluing those parts together (for example, butt_1 and butt_2, then glue that to the solid hammer that is made from hammer_1 and hammer_2). This may result in the muzzle being a tad off, but it will prove to have a much stronger bound this way!
4)Smooth and paint

All Apps

3D Print your file with 3D Hubs, the world’s largest online marketplace for 3D printing services.

App Info Launch App

Auto-magically prepare your 3D models for 3D printing. A cloud based 3D models Preparing and Healing solution for 3D Printing, MakePrintable provides features for model repairing, wall thickness...

App Info Launch App

Kiri:Moto is an integrated cloud-based slicer and tool-path generator for 3D Printing, CAM / CNC and Laser cutting. *** 3D printing mode provides model slicing and GCode output using built-in...

App Info Launch App
KiriMoto Thing App

With 3D Slash, you can edit 3d models like a stonecutter. A unique interface: as fun as a building game! The perfect tool for non-designers and children to create in 3D.

App Info Launch App

Print through a distributed network of 3D printing enthusiasts from across the US, at a fraction of the cost of the competitors. We want to change the world for the better through technology, an...

App Info Launch App

Quickly Scale, Mirror or Cut your 3D Models

App Info Launch App

3D Print a wide range of designs with Treatstock. Easy to use tools to get the perfect result. The global 3D printing network that connects you with high-quality and fast working print services nea...

App Info Launch App

To anyone using slic3r whose having trouble slicing "colt1911_muzzle_2.stl"
I managed to fix many of the problems with this file, it slices correctly in 1.1.3. Here is a download link:
https://mega.co.nz/#!19xmBIJZ!S8myinkunZi2TX3p5nfGUkVLD8XMC9gNllogNiKJqQUhttps://mega.co.nz/#!19xmBIJZ!...

I can't get the mega download to work. I click the download button, then it tells me to manually save the file. I did that, but the file is not where I saved it to, or anywhere on my computer as far as I can tell. What am I doing wrong?
Thanks!

Thanks for that!
If you don't mind me asking, what was wrong with it and how did you fix it?

Multiple walls had polygons trying to occupy the same space, I deleted all the polygons of a wall, mapped my own polygon using the (edge) points left over, and split the large polygon into triangles. 3 walls needed to be rebuilt. I also deleted a lot of intersecting polygons and unnecessary internal structures.

Kinda of a stupid question: but how did you do that?I personally had no issue slicing it, but this may be something nice to know how to do for the future.

Using a non-CAD flavored 3d modeling program, I suggest blender (its free).

Amazing model, thank you very much! I printed this off, but I still feel it could be better if printed in two pieces rather than 8 pieces. I am not a modeller and would have no idea how to do it myself, but if you had the time and was feeling like doing a really awesome favour, could you please make this model into two parts? (two halfs, both sides of the prop) It would make printing so much easier, and i still find the prop looks a little ugly with all the joining lines. (maybe it was just a bad joining job on my part). Let me know if you intend to do this and ill post some pics of my make! cheers.

Thanks! The model itself is not mine, though. You'll have to thank mikearnold for that!
As for the printing of it itself, I agree. I would have loved to be able to print this in two prints, but it was forces smaller due to print times. As it is, it takes almost 36+ hours to print this as is. Printing it in two parts would shave that down to 24-ish, but you would have the printer tied up for 12+ hours straight for each half of the gun. I personal need to stay with my printer while it prints (as it's still in it's early stages of printing) and can not have a print go any longer then 4 hours.
As for the joining, there is an artform of sorts to it. You may need to make some ABS paste (which is something like 3/4 ABS and 1/4 acetone) to rub on the joins to kind of make them vanish fully.
As for the slicing, I would do it, but its kinda of a double edged sword...I personally don't have the time to do it myself (yay for over time at work!). But, NetFabb is a great (free!) program you can use, and I would highly advise you us, as it will be invaluable with all your future large prints.

Hey thanks for the response, I will have to check NetFabb out sometime. What printer have you got may I ask? I built a Prusa i3 (laser cut frame by twelve pro) and after construction I got very excited and got straight into printing with little calibration. It worked pretty damn good without any tweaking. So i fixed some small problems with the prints now its printing like a beast, completed a 15 hour julia vase last week. (printed overnight). Just wondering, why do you limit your print time to 4 hours? is this because you are working full time? I can totally understand why you don't want to leave the printer running while you are not around as I did that once (overnight) for a 6 hour print and i woke up to a MASSIVE blob and huge cloud of filament all over the desk (this was before I fixed the heated bed sticking issue). I have got the prints sticking well now and I am feeling more confident to leave the printer going while I'm out of the house, although i still have that thought in my head when I'm out "will i come home to a massive desk mess?". Also, what kind of print bed do you use? heated or non heated, are you using any form of tape to print on and have you ever had issues with filament not sticking to the bed? When did you get your printer running? I got mine going (reliably and calibrated) a couple of weeks ago.

No problem! And do! Like I said, it will prove to be very handy when you snag stuff from this site that may be a touch too big for you bed.
As for my printer, I have a Prusa i2 running a gen6 board and a heated bed. As for bed prep, I have a glass pane on it that I coat with ABS juice prior to each print. As for getting it running, I want to say that was about three or four months ago...cant say for sure. I work graves, so my perception of time is shot!
And as for the limiting of the prints, you got both reasons! I work 42 hours a week, and I'm usually only home for about 4-8 hours (not counting when I sleep). Right now, I'm still working on how to get the foot print of the printer smaller, while still allowing the filament to unwind automatically, which leads to the major reason I can't leave it alone quite yet.

Hey, where do you get your ABS juice stuff? I have heard a lot of talk about and it sounds like a useful tool. (I am using PLA, but i can still use it right?). What do you mean by you would like to get your printer "footprint" smaller? environmental footprint or physical desk space footprint? Oh yes, make sure you have a spool roller prepared before leaving it alone. I made a huge mistake and unwound a large amount of PLA thread when printing the hammer1 part of the print and left it overnight. I woke up to a half done print with a tightly tied PLA knot in the extruder entry. I have got a spool roller sorted now and its printing for hours on end. I was told that a May I ask why you chose to build a Prusa i2? I was actually advised by someone to build a Prusa i2, but I decided to go with the Prusa i3 simply because of the fact its the newer version.

I don't think you can buy it. I'm sure someone somewhere is selling it. But all it is is just a mix of acetone and ABS plastic. Something like 4 parts acetone, one part ABS. What with scrap ABS, the stuff is abundant! And you can use it with PLA, I've found. However, you still need some ABS to make the juice in the first place.
As for footprint. I mean on my desk. And that spool issue...that is exactly what happened when I opted to leave my printer alone for an hour! Since then, he's always under 'adult' supervision.
As for selection: price, mainly. I was able to get mine up and going for a touch under $600 USD. At the time, it was cheaper to do it the way I did it. Now, I'm sure the Prusa i3 would be better. Not to mention it took my almost two years to get my printer up and going, so I don't think the i3 was around (or around for very long) when I took the printer plunge.

Is there anything you can do with failed PLA prints? I have so many of them. I am afraid to throw it away just incase its got a use. I got my printer for a total of around $550 AUD, ($510 USD). A 2 year build. that sounds a bit dragged on. I thought my build was long. I got the printer running almost 10 months after i received the first parts. I'm guessing you self sourced all the parts? Also, what are your hot end specications?

I'm actually not too sure...I only have a small roll of PLA for the sake of testing it. I would hold on to the scrap, if you have room for it, just in case you do find a use for it. I do know you can get a filabot, which can grind up scrap prints to be reconstituted into filament
And the build just took that long due to personal reasons. I bought it while at a part-time job in college full time. Shortly after I got the kit, I went to a full time job and full time college. And it was all in a kit, shy of steppers which I snagged off eBay.
As for my hotend, I'm using a jhead.

Just looked up the Filabot, its a very expensive system, but i guess it would be possible you build your own. What made you choose ABS as a printing material?

Yeah..it kind of is a pricey machine...I know a handful of hacker/maker spaces have them, so that might be an option for you still!
As for my choice for ABS, it was for two reasons: one, the higher 'melting' point. I reasoned the higer melting point meant it could handle more heat before it got soft, so I could use it in hotter places. Second, it melts in acetone. meaning I could use acetone as a glue on it.

Thanks for the discussion :)

No problem! Hope I helped some!

Cool file... I might be wrong here, it may obly be your photos but this seems a little on the big side for even a full size 1911. Like I said it is likely the photo but it appears to be about 10% too big to me. I may print it and see for myself. It is a beautiful render so please tell your buddy "good job" for me :)

I personally have no reference to go off of. I'm a horrid Montanan, and have yet to actually hold a real gun...but I did bring them into work, and several avid Colt users said they were almost spot on, shy of the grip which was too thin. And I'll be sure to send the thanks along!

What part of Montana? We just moved away from there this last year. We lived in Malta.

Great Falls

no way to use it as a weapon but plenty of ways to be shot by it.

he ment to be shot BECAUSE of it

I understand that now. But the original statement was "by" not "because" which lead to my confusion.

well.. it was sort of a play on words... a bad attempt trying to be funny. But I'm not unhappy about the result being a serious discussion.
Kids are infatuated with guns. If a realistic gun is not treated and respected as though it were real (meaning locked up when not is use), some little kid's gonna find it laying around.. or some idiot teenager will mess around with it.

Can't speak for others, but If an accident happened as a result of my carelessness I would be very upset.

I figured that out. Text can be awesome at displaying sarcasm and other charms like that. And although I can see the painful side of it going into a serious conversation, I'm glad it went that way. I didn't think this all the way through when I uploaded the plans, and due to said conversation, I was able to learn a bit more on the laws regarding this kind of thing.

I wouldn't sweat it. You've done more than enough to caution people.

Heck of a job btw... I don't imagine you sat there with calipers for hours on end but neither does it look like a scan. Copied or transferred diagrams from a parts book into some CAD app?

Actually, this was made by someone else here on the site. I should ask him how he did it, though, because it is one heck of a model! I merely sliced and repaired the model he upload as to allow people to print it.

I may be suffering from lack of sleep, but I'm not quite following.

hmmm.... really? Google search:

shot by fake gun

I'm finding loads of stories about people that had fake guns being shot with a real gun, but nothing about a someone being shot with a fake gun.

yeah... loads... but no kid killed while holding a fake printed gun, and no robbery with a printed fake. I'm positive that little detail would not escape the press, the feds and / or certain politicians.
Speaking of the feds, this might be of interest:
U.S. Code › Title 15 › Chapter 76 › § 5001 15 U.S. Code § 5001
Unenforceable gun laws brought on by who knows what irresponsibility and stupidity.... but that's par for the course.

I just threw the US Code 5001 into the description. I had an inkling of something like that, but didn't bother to check (yay for assuming other people did their research...).

People who do stupid things...
But I understand where your coming from. These are intended to be used for props, and only that. They would only be in view of people at a convention, and they would be approved by those running the convention prior to them being out in public view at the convention.
However, that code is a nice thing to point out. I will have to advise the person I made these for of that (as right now, their hunks of white plastic) and have him paint the barrel 'opening' orange.

Barrel opening painted orange is only the federal requirement... the minimum all states must abide by.

Individual states can and have taken it much further. For instance, about 6 months ago in California a 13 year old kid was shot and killed by a sheriff. A month later some 2011 legislation was reintroduced to make the entire gun bright color. I do not know if it passed into law.

This, of course, would apply to the manufacturers. They are the ones who might be held liable and certainly would be pursued by the attorneys and courts since they probably have money enough to make it worth the effort. Making a gun for someone... seems like manufacture to me... but I'm no attorney.

State to state issues are something each person will need to check. The state in which this is intended to be used in and the state it was made in both only adhere to to the 5001 code. But as far as I can tell, California is the only state in which the "bright color" law applies.
As for manufacturing, I would be classed as a hobbyist, not a business, and would not be a manufacture due to the fact I am not making a profit from this, nor do I plan to make a profit from this. Of course, as the individual that made it, I have already advised the person who these are being made for of the 5001 law, and he is already taking this issue into account.

You may be correct about California, but smaller jurisdictions like counties or cities, are likewise free to expand on the federal rules.
New York City prohibits the sale of toy guns that are black, blue or silver, and wants them to be bright neon colors, or clear. A 99-Cent store owner was actually fined $30,000 under that law.

Many big cities have laws or codes regarding toys, pellet, BB AirSoft, etc.. age limits, parental supervision, blah blah...(like if an airsoft has a laser sight it cannot be carried in public in Minnesota) and it might be wise for makers to know their local laws.

As for the legal definitions of sale, manufacture, hobby, business..... A jury can decide however it sees fit.

And I like I said, I checked the two areas in which the prop will be used (that is, my town where it's made, and the town it will be used as a prop piece) and neither locals have anything else to add to code 5001.
And even then, I am not selling these props. I am simply making them for him. Granted, I may ask for help from him as a favor, but it won't be money.

But you are 100% correct, and I can not thank you enough for pointing the whole thing out. I did stick a notice in the main description advising of code 5001 and I will be tagging on a "check your local laws" as well.

And again, your right. It ultimately falls under a jury. But again, I am making these as a personal favor, and in no way want to be paid for them. I would assume (but again, ass out of you and me) that a jury would see that as a favor and not a business.

Top