Adjustable thumb for InMoov
Derived from
Description
It gives more DOF by allowing the thumb's angle to be adjusted.
It uses the same wiring principle as for the fingers, and the knots will be hiden after gluing the tip part.
Updated 08/08/2012 : uploaded the parts for the right thumb
Updated 28/08/2012 : I made a new version of the base that is more respectfull with the original InMoov's thumb angle. It's also stronger. Please read instructions.
Instructions
- After removing supports, fix the 2 biggest parts together with an M3 20mm bolt as axe.
- Put 1 wire into each hole and make a knot on each
- You can now glue the last part and it will hide the knots (I use PVC tubing glue).
- take away the original thumb, remove the base part and fix it back to the new base.
- put the 4 thumb's wires in place
Instructions for V2 (new thumb base) :
- for those that have allready printed the first version all you have to do is replace the base mesh with xxxx_ThumbV2_base.stl. It has been uploaded separately for your convenience.
- all the others can print the complete thumb V2 (xxxx_ThumbV2.stl)
- both right hand and left hand versions have been uploaded
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I cannot figure out which pieces are needed from each design (if printed new and not retrofit), nor do I have any idea what order the parts assemble in or how they should be fastened to each other. Do you happen to have a more detailed build guide?
Hi !
Please note that this is a derivative for InMoov's from HairyGael.
Or to be more exact, a derivative of the THUMB's BASE only ! (InMoov is a large project...)
So all the parts that are here are ONLY for replacing the original InMoov's thumb base.
To fully complete the hand (and eventually the InMoov's robot) you need to also download the files from the InMoov's project pages.
I hope it clarifies.
Anar, I dont see the file for the new thumbs complete. Is it (xxxx_ThumbV2.stl) and (xxxx_Left ThumbV2.stl) and if so is that from your update on 8/28/2012 ?
Hi pauliemagic and thanks for your interest in that thing !
Here are some precisions :
- DOFThumb_left and DOFThumb_right are the first version with a small variable angle
- Left_ThumbV2 and Right_ThumbV2 are the new version with a wider variable angle and should be used instead of the previous one.
But for those that had allready printed the version one, only the base of the thumb needs to be printed back. Therefore I have made them as separate file.
They are :
- Left_ThumbV2_base and Right_ThumbV2_base
I hope it clarifies.
Yes, nice addition. You mention a v-shaped head screw. Do you mean a flat head?
- In you photo there are only three wires/lines into the thumb. Is that right? And how does the finger action work - the sequence of movements????
bstott thank you for the comment !
Yes that's why I mean : a v-shaped flat head screw.
There is 2 new wires to animate the thumb's angle. So in addition with the two original ones that makes it 4 wires coming out of the thumb.
Both new wires are going on the upper side of the M8 bolt (back hand side) so that's why you see 3 wires
on the photo. The 4th one (responsible for closing the thumb) is on the other side of the M8.
And both new wires are going on the left side of the thumb's M3 axe (when looking at the photo).
I have tried several wiring but it seems this one was the best but you could try something else (wires on
each of M8 and/or M3).
I hope this will clarify a bit.
This derivative is for sure very usefull !! Could you modify it so we can still use the "topsurface" and "coverfinger"? As I see it, there is the attaching hole missing, and the M3 bolt added avoids contact for the "coverfinger" to be attached. Also there is an angle I gave to "thumb5" missing which allows better rotation once "topsurface" is fixed on. :)
I have just uploaded a new version that should have a much better angle. I have adapted just the base to allow for more angle. On my CAD it now has the exact same angle as the original.
Sorry I haven't look at the top surfaces problem yet...
@Hairygael - I've been using double backed tape to hold on my covers. I was thinking I'd cut screws and glue them in place to give the bolted together impression. The double backed tape is really tough stuff. You have to want it to come off with effort so, I use that. And I can place the cover to the position required to compensate for the prints from my machines. But, probably need screws when your hands are every where. :)
Hi and thanks for comment !
Yes that's why it is still WIP.
It's a first version to check it could work.
I will modify it again to include your predefined angles as one extreme.
Concerning the M3 nut it could be replaced by one with a V shaped head to allow for the top plates.
I will also add the holes for the top plates as
suggested.
I didn't plan to use the top plates but will print them just to check that my next design is corrrect.
Cheers !
License
There are a few issues detected by Slic3r with this design. Says there are self-intersecting facets.
Also, the V2 design cannot be printed on regular 3D printers, because the base part has a free standing hinges without any support to print it on.
Hi,
I will check for any self-intersecting facets but I don't think there is any...
And I don't understand your remark about the non-printable part.
I've designed each part with ease of printing in mind and as you can see on the photos they have succesfully been printed on a "regular" FDM printer.