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3D Filament Splicer

by Artesea, published

3D Filament Splicer by Artesea Apr 15, 2014

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Summary

This is a small tool we have created for splicing 3D Filament. It is suitable for 1.75 and 3mm filaments.

Actually quite a lot of work went into it this 'little thing', we tried to make fully automated splicer first but it failed due several issues such as filament expansion / shrinkage. So manual labor is still the king :)

On the filament sample snapshot you can see results, 1 is manual and 2 is done with splicer. Of course you can trim manual joint but it is work and will get annoying soon enough.

You can get Splicer copper parts, kit or fully assembled unit via our crowdfunding campaign.

We work to bring more color options to OSS 3D Printing and have a few other very interesting ideas. Filament Splicer is first tiny step in this quest.

Instructions

Bill of materials

  • 6mm plywood frame (see Blueprints)
  • Teflon / PFTE thermal isolation plates, minimum 5mm (see Blueprints)
  • Copper heating and cooling blocks (See Blueprints)
  • 12v thermal controller from Willhi
  • 300c thermal probe with 4mm diameter
  • Cartridge heater
  • 12v 5mm socket, we use high quality metal connector with 10mm neck
  • on/off switch with 12mm neck and M3 terminal screws
  • 12v 6A Power supply
  • 0.5 mm2 wires
  • 4 x 20mm M3 Screws with matching bolts
  • 2 x 7mm M5 Screws with countersunk heads
  • 2 x crimp-on 3mm terminals (Optional for Switch connector)
  • Fast setting wood glue
  • Rubber feet

Notes:

  • There is a M3 hole on the top of the heating block, it is for hot knife fixation, there is no blueprint for it, we manufacture it by hand from brass profile, your choice of form. It helps to have a V-Groove in it for easy removal of excess plastic. See pictures of out final product.

Thermal isolation plate for heating block should have drilled impression for countersunk screw head to go in. The less hot metal is under the PFTA, the better. Otherwise wood will start charring with time.

Box is glued together, it is actually very simple job and our wood glue sets in within 15 minutes.

We advise to cover box in protective oil as we do with out kits, otherwise it will get dirty very soon.

Do not ever exceed safe operating temperature of PFTA plates (260c in case of our material specs), Teflon emits very nasty fumes when overheated.

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Which type of temperature control do you need to use?
i want to make this filament splicer with some adjustments

Sadly to know it's cancelled.
wondering is there any video about it working?

do you have a video of this showing how to join 1.75mm filament ?. I tried a similar contraption but it is very hard to join 1.75mm filament.

May 13, 2015 - Modified May 15, 2015

The controller best fit is to 1500 centigrade http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00JE5VPMO?psc=1 but it doems not fit the box!

What Willhi thermal controller model did you use? I only can find 12v controllers that reach to 110C max... I don't think they'll be helpful :/

You can offer it on Kickstarter now - please do so...

Hi Shaddi, unfortunately I cannot list it on Kickstarter: I am in Switzerland. Indiegogo is not an option as well, one really needs substantial assistance from 'Friends and Family' to even get noticed there and I cannot count on that, my family is rather small and friends do not care about 3D Printing. Looking at response I do not think it will be produced so I channel my spare time into 'Project Iris' now. Now Iris is really cool.... Stay tuned.

Why don't you launch this think on kick starter. i am sure you would get allot of response.

Correct, but this will not work in Bowden tube type of printers, will cause issues with retraction and you must be there to do it :) Hardly an option for overnight prints. Cheers

I just cut the roll and join the new color in the extruder while its running. Very easy.

I do not print in ABS and cannot say much about it but stiff and fragile joints are issue with PLA as well, it was actually several of those snaps which ruined overnight prints which pissed me off enough to make filament splicer. What I found out is that the key to avoiding it is right (high) temperature and smelt zone which is as small as possible. Ideal filament splicer would be made like fibre optical splicer with plasma jet but that would be a bit overkill :)

I have been successful in splicing 3mm ABS using several methods but the problem is that the joint is always stiff and ends up breaking during feeding into the printer if you don't really print slow and baby it. Do your joints suffer from this as well?

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