Replicator 1 HBP height adjustment retaining jig (Total revamp)

by 66tbirdJZ, published

Replicator 1 HBP height adjustment retaining jig (Total revamp) by 66tbirdJZ Aug 17, 2012


This little device slips over two of the HBP height adjusting knobs to prevent them from working lose during the vibration incured during printing. I printed it weeks ago and put it to the test doing large heavy prints that used to make me adjust each new print. Atfer installing these I've yet to make an adjustment.

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Be VERY careful when installing these, so the knobs don't move. They fit very snug. The spreaders aren't in the file. They're not really necessary, though. Maybe that's why.

Yes I got the aluminum arms, they have been working great, I have noticed from some reason even with the aluminum arms one side sits a bit lower than the other, makes for fun leveling. I also had a new build plat machined, that it a little thicker, and the HBP is contained in a pocket to counter act warp.

Have you done the aluminum arm upgrade yet? I found the stock plastic arms were not dimensionally stable over temperature.

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The jig clips on front to back, or back to front. One for each side. I printed mine at .20mm, 1 shells, 15% infill, no raft, 110-240C- enclosed

I did another run to fix an issue and now have a new file. Did again and now have a really tight fitting jig. Included are two spreads to preload the jig so instalation is quick. Just open the clamps and hold open with the raised part on the rectangle pieces. When in place (narrow side up) just pop the off the pieces holding the jaws open. It's now on tight.

Anidotal note: My first set printed fine and worked well for me. A freind went with a Rep1 and printed a set, then another, on the third he came over, tossed then in my lap stating 'your better than this, fix it'. He was correct, they were junk because my stl was junk. So I redesigned it right this time. Now it's 'wow went on easy, hope they can come off agian'. They do and the HBP does not drift up over time do to fibration. Sorry (thx fastrack) I didn't pursue the issue when first mentions in the replies.


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johnnyxmas on Mar 19, 2014 said:

Be VERY careful when installing these, so the knobs don't move. They fit very snug. The spreaders aren't in the file. They're not really necessary, though. Maybe that's why.

jasonwebb on Mar 4, 2013 said:

Heh, I use a dial indicator to ensure the level of my bed, and had it installed when I put on my bars. Whenever I attach the bars, the dial indicator moves up by about 0.005" (~.127mm)! Is that normal?

66tbirdJZ on Mar 5, 2013 said:

Yes it can be if the jig is touching the wood. If not touching just compensate by adjusting the nuts a little before installing.

toybuilder on Nov 23, 2012 said:

I've lately been experiencing needing to adjust the HBP more frequently (probably mostly due to recents prints being long-running prints) -- I saw this when it first came out, before I had even thought about buying a Replicator.  I'm glad I remembered this thing, and was able to find it on Thingiverse!  Thanks for putting this together!

66tbirdJZ on Nov 23, 2012 said:

 Thanks, it was a real necessity for me, and for may others too. I haven't needed to adjust the bed for months. I'm set kind of close,  .008 inch I think on a .0.2mm layer height and I usually have to hit the print with 'freeze off' to get it off without tearing the tape.

Fastrack on Nov 1, 2012 said:

A lot of people were complaining about missing infill.  I tried Print-o-matic 1,2,3 shells with anywhere between 10-50% infill.  The left side hooks were always empty and part of the right as well.  I changed it to 0 shells and 25% infill.  The end hooks now get filled in perfectly.

For those that do not know and it'll save you a TON of plastic.  Download Repetier-Host.. Open it and click Load (you can't drag and drop).  Open the generated gcode.. You can move around the view (very weird controls though).  Click Visualization tab (bottom right).  Show layer range 1-xx... now you can click through the layers and see where defects are.  The program does not show the tool path but it shows were all the filament will be!

Anonymous on Dec 1, 2012 said:

I'll try this. I think the STL has problems. It shows all RED in Netfabb.

Harlock on Oct 17, 2012 said:

Just printed a set with white ABS, using Jetty Sailfish firmware at 200mm/s on a Replicator1, 100% infill and at 0.15mm layers, no shells. After over an hour, it came out pretty nice! Thanks a bunch!

Sabio3D on Sep 26, 2012 said:

Following up some earlier comments, I tried printing at 25% infill and still got a hollow side. Now printing at 75%. Hopefully that won't be too stiff to rig on the platform.

Sabio3D on Oct 2, 2012 said:

hmm, tried printing at 75% and it still is coming out hollow. not sure what the issue is....

TCorgard on Aug 31, 2012 said:

I did notice one thing, this is not a final fix. A good one yes... I left on vacation for a week. Came back and my machine was not level anymore, and the braces were still in place.

But if you print on the machine everyday, these braces work great. If you leave the machine alone for a time, check the bed level just incase.

66tbirdJZ on Dec 19, 2013 said:

Have you done the aluminum arm upgrade yet? I found the stock plastic arms were not dimensionally stable over temperature.

Lincoln on Aug 27, 2012 said:

Thanks! This made quite a difference.

latigerlilly on Aug 23, 2012 said:

btw, thanks. your item worked like a charm.

latigerlilly on Aug 23, 2012 said:

"when you are level, the back screws are loose" because when you turn one screw, it affects the level of the other 2 screws. You're probably turning the screws separately instead of all together. Even without your device, you should be able to make at least 3 to 4 large prints (tornado cups) before you need to re-level unless you are levelling by turning the screws separately. Do the following:

1. tighten all 4 screws so that they will not tighten anymore with normal finger tightening (do not use extra strength nor hand tools).
2. level the platform with the replicator's levelling script from the native lcd menu. do this by turning all 4 screws at the same time and at the same amount fo
r every adjustment made. do this until the platform is ALMOST level. do not level the platform perfectly. just level it to the pont where there is a roughly 1mm visible gap between the nozzle and the platform in all points of the levelling script. do the levelling with somthing thick like a business
card if your vision is too bad to see this.
3. hit "home axes" on the lcd menu on replicator.
4. level the platform again, but this time manually reposition the extruder and you may turn the screws individually.
5. double check all 4 corners with a piece of paper to make sure that you are level.
check the middle with a piece of paper, too. if your platform is a bit warped, you may want to level to the corners of your printed object instead of the platform's corners.
6. add your device.


Busybotz on Aug 22, 2012 said:

I made a set and level is holding for at least 10 prints. It is too early to say if they make a real difference, but I expect it will help. Time will tell!

66tbirdJZ on Aug 22, 2012 said:

Great, I'm interested in hearing if it works for others as well. When my HBP is level my back two springs are quite loose. I made the jig a little tight length wise to keep a good grip. I've gone over a month with mine and I recently finished the last of some large and heavy(5oz.) prints that was killing my leveling early on before the jig. Now the level is still spot on. It's been a good fix for me.

66tbirdJZ on Aug 19, 2012 said:

Thank you for the heads up on my .02 error. It should of been .20mm

latigerlilly on Aug 19, 2012 said:

I don't think that the makerbot replicator is capable of printing in 0.02 mm height layers. I read somewhere that the limit is 0.04 mm (sorry, I forgot where. I think it was makerbot T.V. or the Google Makerbot Forum). I think the OP meant 0.2 mm. That's how I printed it and I also got one side hollow with the other side solid. I think you'll have to use a higher fill percentage than 15% if you want both sides to be solid.

66tbirdJZ on Aug 19, 2012 said:

It was 0.2 thanks. I don't know why the forks are different. Mine wer both solid. :-[ I see no problem with a higher infill.

TCorgard on Aug 19, 2012 said:

I am prining them right now, I put me layers to .25, since I don't want to try .02 just yet.

I did notice that while it is printing, the hooks on the left side of the build, are printing hollow, and the ones on the right side are printing solid.

Is this normal?

sirmakesalot on Aug 18, 2012 said:

Nice solution! I have yet to experience that degree of movement but It cant hurt to install them before it happens! Great preventative thinking!