Loading

Replicator 1 HBP height adjustment retaining jig (Total revamp)

by 66tbirdJZ, published

Replicator 1 HBP height adjustment retaining jig (Total revamp) by 66tbirdJZ Aug 17, 2012

Description

This little device slips over two of the HBP height adjusting knobs to prevent them from working lose during the vibration incured during printing. I printed it weeks ago and put it to the test doing large heavy prints that used to make me adjust each new print. Atfer installing these I've yet to make an adjustment.

Recent Comments

view all
Be VERY careful when installing these, so the knobs don't move. They fit very snug. The spreaders aren't in the file. They're not really necessary, though. Maybe that's why.
Yes I got the aluminum arms, they have been working great, I have noticed from some reason even with the aluminum arms one side sits a bit lower than the other, makes for fun leveling. I also had a new build plat machined, that it a little thicker, and the HBP is contained in a pocket to counter act warp.
Have you done the aluminum arm upgrade yet? I found the stock plastic arms were not dimensionally stable over temperature.

More from 3D Printer Accessories

view more

Liked By

view all

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag. Print Thing Tag

Instructions

The jig clips on front to back, or back to front. One for each side. I printed mine at .20mm, 1 shells, 15% infill, no raft, 110-240C- enclosed

I did another run to fix an issue and now have a new file. Did again and now have a really tight fitting jig. Included are two spreads to preload the jig so instalation is quick. Just open the clamps and hold open with the raised part on the rectangle pieces. When in place (narrow side up) just pop the off the pieces holding the jaws open. It's now on tight.

Anidotal note: My first set printed fine and worked well for me. A freind went with a Rep1 and printed a set, then another, on the third he came over, tossed then in my lap stating 'your better than this, fix it'. He was correct, they were junk because my stl was junk. So I redesigned it right this time. Now it's 'wow went on easy, hope they can come off agian'. They do and the HBP does not drift up over time do to fibration. Sorry (thx fastrack) I didn't pursue the issue when first mentions in the replies.
Be VERY careful when installing these, so the knobs don't move. They fit very snug. The spreaders aren't in the file. They're not really necessary, though. Maybe that's why.
Heh, I use a dial indicator to ensure the level of my bed, and had it installed when I put on my bars. Whenever I attach the bars, the dial indicator moves up by about 0.005" (~.127mm)! Is that normal?
Yes it can be if the jig is touching the wood. If not touching just compensate by adjusting the nuts a little before installing.
I've lately been experiencing needing to adjust the HBP more frequently (probably mostly due to recents prints being long-running prints) -- I saw this when it first came out, before I had even thought about buying a Replicator.  I'm glad I remembered this thing, and was able to find it on Thingiverse!  Thanks for putting this together!
 Thanks, it was a real necessity for me, and for may others too. I haven't needed to adjust the bed for months. I'm set kind of close,  .008 inch I think on a .0.2mm layer height and I usually have to hit the print with 'freeze off' to get it off without tearing the tape.
A lot of people were complaining about missing infill.  I tried Print-o-matic 1,2,3 shells with anywhere between 10-50% infill.  The left side hooks were always empty and part of the right as well.  I changed it to 0 shells and 25% infill.  The end hooks now get filled in perfectly.

For those that do not know and it'll save you a TON of plastic.  Download Repetier-Host.. Open it and click Load (you can't drag and drop).  Open the generated gcode.. You can move around the view (very weird controls though).  Click Visualization tab (bottom right).  Show layer range 1-xx... now you can click through the layers and see where defects are.  The program does not show the tool path but it shows were all the filament will be!
I'll try this. I think the STL has problems. It shows all RED in Netfabb.
Just printed a set with white ABS, using Jetty Sailfish firmware at 200mm/s on a Replicator1, 100% infill and at 0.15mm layers, no shells. After over an hour, it came out pretty nice! Thanks a bunch!
Following up some earlier comments, I tried printing at 25% infill and still got a hollow side. Now printing at 75%. Hopefully that won't be too stiff to rig on the platform.
hmm, tried printing at 75% and it still is coming out hollow. not sure what the issue is....
I did a revamp and now it works. Sorry for the crap stl
I did notice one thing, this is not a final fix. A good one yes... I left on vacation for a week. Came back and my machine was not level anymore, and the braces were still in place.

But if you print on the machine everyday, these braces work great. If you leave the machine alone for a time, check the bed level just incase.
Have you done the aluminum arm upgrade yet? I found the stock plastic arms were not dimensionally stable over temperature.
Yes I got the aluminum arms, they have been working great, I have noticed from some reason even with the aluminum arms one side sits a bit lower than the other, makes for fun leveling. I also had a new build plat machined, that it a little thicker, and the HBP is contained in a pocket to counter act warp.
Thanks! This made quite a difference.
btw, thanks. your item worked like a charm.
"when you are level, the back screws are loose" because when you turn one screw, it affects the level of the other 2 screws. You're probably turning the screws separately instead of all together. Even without your device, you should be able to make at least 3 to 4 large prints (tornado cups) before you need to re-level unless you are levelling by turning the screws separately. Do the following:

1. tighten all 4 screws so that they will not tighten anymore with normal finger tightening (do not use extra strength nor hand tools).
2. level the platform with the replicator's levelling script from the native lcd menu. do this by turning all 4 screws at the same time and at the same amount fo
r every adjustment made. do this until the platform is ALMOST level. do not level the platform perfectly. just level it to the pont where there is a roughly 1mm visible gap between the nozzle and the platform in all points of the levelling script. do the levelling with somthing thick like a business
card if your vision is too bad to see this.
3. hit "home axes" on the lcd menu on replicator.
4. level the platform again, but this time manually reposition the extruder and you may turn the screws individually.
5. double check all 4 corners with a piece of paper to make sure that you are level.
check the middle with a piece of paper, too. if your platform is a bit warped, you may want to level to the corners of your printed object instead of the platform's corners.
6. add your device.

voila!
I made a set and level is holding for at least 10 prints. It is too early to say if they make a real difference, but I expect it will help. Time will tell!
Great, I'm interested in hearing if it works for others as well. When my HBP is level my back two springs are quite loose. I made the jig a little tight length wise to keep a good grip. I've gone over a month with mine and I recently finished the last of some large and heavy(5oz.) prints that was killing my leveling early on before the jig. Now the level is still spot on. It's been a good fix for me.
Success! I have seen a clear improvement since installing these clamps. At least 20 prints, and the bed did not require any adjustment at all, even for plated sets that nearly filled the platform. That is a big deal, because I was always fighting with the bed adjustments.

Previously, the platform center would move higher over time, causing prints to stick hard, which required more pressure to remove the prints, which lead to damaged kapton and further misalignment. Now my prints are flatter, and the kapton last longer because the prints are easier to remove.

The c
lamps are a bit tricky to install without bumping the screws. They are just a bit too long, so I have to put a bend in them to slip it over the screw, and it might take a couple of attempts to get them on. I check level with a dial indicator before and after installing the clamps, and it if changes,
I remove and try again.

So thanks Tbird, this is a big improvement. They are a bit of a hassle to install, perhaps there is room for a change there, but the concept is great and it works. 8-)
Thank you for the heads up on my .02 error. It should of been .20mm
I don't think that the makerbot replicator is capable of printing in 0.02 mm height layers. I read somewhere that the limit is 0.04 mm (sorry, I forgot where. I think it was makerbot T.V. or the Google Makerbot Forum). I think the OP meant 0.2 mm. That's how I printed it and I also got one side hollow with the other side solid. I think you'll have to use a higher fill percentage than 15% if you want both sides to be solid.
It was 0.2 thanks. I don't know why the forks are different. Mine wer both solid. :-[ I see no problem with a higher infill.
I am prining them right now, I put me layers to .25, since I don't want to try .02 just yet.

I did notice that while it is printing, the hooks on the left side of the build, are printing hollow, and the ones on the right side are printing solid.

Is this normal?
Nice solution! I have yet to experience that degree of movement but It cant hurt to install them before it happens! Great preventative thinking!
Top