Ultimaker PEEK Replacement

by tlalexander, published

Ultimaker PEEK Replacement by tlalexander Aug 18, 2012
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This part will solve bowden tube popping issues. If you've got access to a manual (or CNC) lathe or a CNC mill, you can make it. I show it with a hex, but that is optional and I only did it as I had a CNC mill handy and in that case it didn't matter if it was round or hex. Round works just as well though! It was designed with help from Joergen Geerds and he and I have tested them over several months with PLA and ABS with great success.

Drawings and everything are included in the Zip. the STL is useless but thingiverse makes a nice preview out of it.


Machine out of PEEK. Teflon/PTFE may work but eventually will fail. You will also have to use an M7 die to thread your bowden tube about 12mm up. Note that I tried a cheap Harbor Freight die at first and it was no good.

I originally made mine from 3/4" diameter PEEK, but realized that 5/8" diameter PEEK should be fine, and is cheaper, so I redesigned it for that.

Its important that the M7 threads are AT LEAST 10.2mm deep. I show the hole as 11.2mm deep, but its safe to go deeper. The M6 threads that hold the nozzle on are plenty strong. I messed up the one on my machine so I've only got a few mm of M6 thread there, and its holding up just fine.

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Do you think i can print this out of PLA or ABS to use it on the Feeder (not the hotend). Does that also gets hot?

No, that won't really help you. Luckily someone has already designed something that will:

Bowden Clamp for Ultimaker (Feeder End)
by pit3k

Sweet! My Ultimaker is back in business and not snotting all over prints. I ended up finding a 3/4" diameter x 3" long piece of PEEK on Amazon for ~$10. Made the flange 5 mm thick as shown in the drawing (which is a little taller than the bosses on the 4-holed aluminum plate, if you have the version that has the bosses in the corners) but left the flange at the 3/4" stock diameter (just clears the inner corner of the boss). Also stuck with the 21 mm overall length as in the drawing, but ended up with a body diameter of 0.552", which was a slip fit for the holes in the aluminum plate (YMMV). Was going to get fancy and cut a hex on flange, but figured it was good enough (and I was anxious to try it out). Hopefully I won't have to booger it up with vise grips if I ever need to take it out. ;-)

Awesome! Just what the Dr. ordered. I like this better than having to cut the brass down and threading the bowen in the same hole.

Could you share your PEEK source? I have 5/8" PTFE here, but if I am going to do it, I prefer to do it right!

Thanks for reminding me about this, I knew someone had recently asked me something but I forgot where it was!

Anyway, you can get PEEK from McMaster Carr, or I got mine for about 1/2 the price from a local plastic supplier.

Thanks!! I can't wait to build this.

thanks for posting... the hex shape of the lower part is optional, it just looks nicer, but a round part will do just as well.

Definitely! I say it in the drawing file in the zip, but I will add it to the description too.