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Eventorbot! Open source 3D printer.

by eventorbot, published

Eventorbot! Open source 3D printer. by eventorbot Aug 20, 2012

Description

Eventorbot! Open source 3D printer. Simple with less materials. Frame is made of a single 4' long, 2 1/2" square tube (16 gauge/1.5mm/.0598" thick, cost: less then $20.00). With the design there is less plastic parts, stronger structure, all wires are hidden, and a more appealing/finish look. The blue print file will get you more familiar with the construction of the unit. The downloadable file is my blue print that I designed and used to build the machine. The accuracy is to the exact of my build. For more images and updates like: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Eventorbot/111169638934671

The unit is supposed to resemble a robotic arm with hydraulic tubes. It was designed for prints to be less affected by vibrations. With the 1 solid frame, any vibrations of any axis will cause the other axis to move with it. For example: If the X axis causes a slight vibration/1mm movement to the right, the Z and Y axis will also move that 1mm to the right. This will result in a better print as everything will remain squared.

For those who do not have access to a 3D printer. You can order the plastic parts and frame at: kickstarter.com/projects/1874396831/eventorbot-open-source-3d-printer

Eventorbot has met its funding goal!

Well, I'm speechless and overwhelmed with all the support. I will like to say a BIG thank you for all the support, kind words, and to all the backers. To be able to share and have your interest in something I created is a great feeling. Everyone of you guys have made something that was a big dream become reality. Eventorbot, as a 3D printer is now going to happen! You will have no regrets in owning a Eventorbot, our machine will be a strong contender.

Thank you... thank you... thank you...

Recent Comments

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Cura, dude, cura works amazing stuff. U can use it with any printer, just put in settings and ur ready to go, super easy interface, easy opening stl files, just download and then open file while in cura, if u have trouble, look on youtibe for help and basics
Hi, Im somewhat new to this, but I want to know, what program would I need to open the .stl files?
any help would be much appreciated!
I am such a noob right now. What software do I use to run all this. I have modeling programs already, I just need the software that takes the .stl file and converts it into the print, and the software that runs the printer.

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Instructions

Attached are Google SketchUp/SKB files. This is a free software from google. To view the file, please download Google SketchUp. From there, open the file and you can view the Eventorbot from any angle and take it apart as you like.

For more images and updates like: facebook.com/pages/Eventorbot/111169638934671

Video clips:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qZsJAchkd6A&feature=plcp

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AUZKqjrOeSU&feature=plcp

Requested video of prints: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3LvzItaDIqM&feature=youtu.be

2nd file is the schematic of the metal frame and hot head assembly bracket. Use this diagram to cut and drill the frame. Use the free google sketchup software. With the software use the tape measure and the protractor to get your measurements and angles. Note there is 9 taps on the frame and 2 taps on the hot head assembly bracket.

3rd file. PARTS LIST: http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Eventorbot

Files 4-27, are the STL files. Quantity's of print: (2) bed A p1 P-022 (2) bed A p2 P-023 (1) bed carriage p1 P-012 (1) bed carriage p2 P-013 (1) bed carriage p2 P-015 (1) bed carriage p3 P-014 (1) bed p1 P-020 (1) bed p2 P-021 (1) extruder housing P-002 (2) footing 1 P-009 (4) footing 2 P-010 (1) mother board tray P-003 (3) motor mount P-005 (2) pulley gear P-006 (2) rod support p1 P-016 (2) rod support p2 P-017 (1) spool holder P-011 (1) spool holder 2 P-011 (1) x carriage P-007 (1) x carriage part 2 P-008 (1) z carriage p1 P-018 (1) z carriage p2 P-019

Optional Decorative caps: (2) corner cap P-001 (2) end cap P-004

File #28 "Hardware.skp" shows the locations of all the screws. Please use the free google sketchup software, to zoom and view in 3D.

After you have finished the frame and have welded the corners together, you will also have to cut a 2.5" x 2.5" square on top of the frame (the corner caps will cover this corner). IMG: http://js-kit.com/blob/4eJOmXdyTzqd4rIyxZwOGH.jpg

Tutorial videos:

1st tutorial, Metal frame: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XgLoQZsGVb4 Assembly of Eventorbot. X axis tutorial part 1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=evpfwuurSG0&feature=plcp Assembly of Eventorbot. X axis tutorial part 2: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BKUsRDj9D6s&feature=plcp Assembly of Eventorbot. Z axis tutorial part 3: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TSqShwyFCtg&feature=plcp Assembly of Eventorbot. Z axis tutorial part 4: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Hn966fX_pQ&feature=plcp Assembly of Eventorbot. Extruder tutorial part 5: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Udy_GOt7I3Y&feature=plcp Assembly of Eventorbot. Y axis tutorial part 6: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JRFLkUnXfQE&feature=plcp Assembly of Eventorbot. Y axis tutorial part 7: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h4mqcd6UmM0&feature=plcp Assembly of Eventorbot. Y axis tutorial part 8: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m-9c5vNKFvY&feature=plcp

For those who do not have access to a 3D printer. You can order the plastic parts and frame at: http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1874396831/eventorbot-open-source-3d-printer

File Name

Downloads

Size

Hi, Im somewhat new to this, but I want to know, what program would I need to open the .stl files?
any help would be much appreciated!
I am such a noob right now. What software do I use to run all this. I have modeling programs already, I just need the software that takes the .stl file and converts it into the print, and the software that runs the printer.
Cura, dude, cura works amazing stuff. U can use it with any printer, just put in settings and ur ready to go, super easy interface, easy opening stl files, just download and then open file while in cura, if u have trouble, look on youtibe for help and basics
youtube.com/watch?v=BmbU9FXZXkg&;list=PLmXzlORY-RI-htUMrIt9xYLPfue0TITkC

Maybe this is useful for you.
Are you still making these ? If so I would like to get a kit.
Seems file "P-013" is damaged. When loaded in Repetier-Host, I get a slew of model problems and forcing a print only produces a fractured rendition of the bracket.
Can anyone test and confirm or replace the bad *.stl with working one?
(Thanks in advance)
Hi Print size given for eventorbot as 152 x 152 x 152 - why does the bed have 12 inches (300mm) travel. Trying to draw my own version for uploading with twin 'z' steppers but want to know answer before I start cutting metal.
design would be stiffer if bed shorter say 8 inch travel (200mm).
How much plastic do you need to print one? It looks like a lot of big parts that need to have a dense infill.
Hi
I like You design very much.
Is it Ok that I download Your Parts and convert it to Metric steel tube. You can get the parts from me and supply them as metric download if you want?
How do you calibrate the Eventorbot and what size hotend nozzle did you use
Thanks
Hi
Do you have a Part Number for the Geared
stepper motor for extruder
If you have it can you provide it
Thank you
JCR
 Link
for dual extruder attachment board. Thanks to one of our backers: Kyle
Kronyak. Either Kyle or I will have it available to purchase assembled:
http://www.reprap.org/wiki/SLUM

PDF documents for Hot End (for 1.75mm and 3.0mm):
http://eventorbot.com/files/Diagram%20for%20hotend.zip
If buying kit without the metal frame do you suggest this frame or the expansion print frame (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:31932)
Eventorbot with expansion print size
Hi,
Can you make some vidéo about mounting your hotend on head and tip for it ?
Tanks à lot!
Eventorbots first sibling, all the way from the UK. Created by: Richard Taylor

Very nice alterations.

- Add printed geared extruder to take a NEMA17 stepper.
- Add fan to bottom end cap.
- Make a hot end mount with aluminium L section and printed parts (for J-Head). - Use $2 plastic shelf mounts from IKEA for feet! (Great idea!) View images: www2.artaylor.co.uk/eventorbot.html Download blue print: artaylor.co.uk/eventorbot/Blue_print.skp 
Great design !!
I began building a eventorbot but i have a question : how did you adjust the Z axes starting position for head height ? 
I'm using an Mendel for now and this is an adjustement that's critical for setup the printer. Did you play only with the springs of the bed ?
Thank's

 The adjustment will come from the spring.
hello, i would like to give the dimensions of the hot-end nozzle
thank you

 This is currently all I have: youtube.com/watch?v=ahse-027CR4
Today I sold my chainmail to order most of the set of plastic parts ..
Cannot see if I can buy all less the frame on kickstarter
(International ) ..Australia
 Just listed it on kickstarter. Please check again
 Thank you, signed up
What torque motor is optimized for the extruder?
Does your printer problem sticking to the first layer of the platform?
 No, once it is fully calibrated.
Hi, In Russia (where I live) do not square pipes of this size. Can the design of the printer to use the tube 60X60 or 80X80 mm mm?
 Yes, both will work but you will have to redesign the frame.
Has anyone had trouble trying to find 16 gauge 2 1/2" tube steel?

I cant find it to save my life. Except on eBay and shipping is killing it....

Also Congratulations Duy on getting the Kickstarter total you have achieved so far...
You can find it at DiscountSteel_dot_com...$14.04 for 4ft.
Duy, I understand you may be busy but I have asked 2 questions recently and had no response. I have another, the 5/16 threaded rod and nuts. Are these UNF or UNC or BSW or ??? Hoping to hear from you soon.
Sorry, for some reason I stopped getting email notifications for comments. I used this one: amazon.com/16-18X3-ft-Stainless-Steel-Threaded/dp/B000NC7NY6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&;qid=1348776226&sr=8-1&keywords=5%2F16+threaded+rod
I had a problem uploading bed_carriage_p2_p-013 to Ponoko.  The file had a non-manifold error.

I ran the original file through Netfabb repair.  It will upload now.

bed_carriage_p2_p-013_repaired.stl 

thingiverse.com/thing:31153

Thanks Eventorbot!
bed_carriage_p2_p-013_repaired.stl
Eventorbot has met its funding goal!

Well, I'm speechless and overwhelmed with all the support. I will
like to say a BIG thank you for all the support, kind words, and to all
the backers. To be able to share and have your interest in something I
created is a great feeling. Everyone of you guys have made something
that was a big dream become reality. Eventorbot, as a 3D printer is now
going to happen! You will have no regrets in owning a Eventorbot, our machine will
be a strong contender.

Thank you... thank you... thank you...

 
Parts list shows :-

(1) Geared stepper motor for extruder. (more info soon). 

Do you have info on this yet as I would like to order it. I purchased the $285 package last week.
 https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=447167182001580&id=111169638934671¬if_t=feed_comment
 Hi. Two quick questions before I invest..

I am new to 3d printing. Will ReplicatorG work (please advise settings) or if not what software should I use on a Mac?

Will your hotbed upgrade accept 20/240v input? I am in the UK.

Thanks.
Yes, ReplicatorG will work. You can also use Pronterface with Macs.
Yes, I will send a different power adapter for international backers.
For those who do not have access to a 3D printer. You can order the plastic parts and frame at: kickstarter.com/projects/1874396831/eventorbot-open-source-3d-printer
Hello Dewey/Mr. Eventorbot! I showed your printer to a colleague of mine and we have a massive laser cutter that can make the metal parts in bulk if interested. I just finished with converting everything to SAE as metric wasn't an option, and mine should be done soon. We are looking at doing it a bit different though, possibly with 14 gauge sheet metal cut into 'U' shapes x 2 with 6 smaller pieces that will complete the tube all the way around. The inside plates (top X, side Z, and bottom INSIDE the 'U') will be removable for easy access and assembly of parts inside the 2.5" square. I hope that makes sense! :). Hope to have video of something completed in next week or so...
BTW, I am referring to the metal frame and hotend support only here. It will have all cutouts and holes laser cut to Dewey's .skp specs.
Please message me your companies information.
when I try to take these stl files to shapeways to print them, they ask for the measure in the files - meters, inches or millimeters... should i assume millimeters by default?

Is there a better place to get these printed?
I will be molding the plastic parts using urethane plastic, for all the ones who do not have acess to a 3d printer.
Yes millimeters.
I wish there was a simple, DOWNLOAD ALL button LOL. Lots of parts
Eventorbot add a zip file!
awesome! thanks
I just started looking into building my own printer when I ran into this. The design is definately in the right direction and most important "Wife approved". How about doing a kickstarter project for the frame?
Wow! Great work. What is your ultimate goal in pursuing the creation and reproduction of this open source 3D printer?
At first, just wanted to challenge myself. Goal: having someone interested in building something I created.
Hello there, I'm printing all the parts and can't print part 'x carriage part2_p008.stl'. There is an error in the file that won't let it slice in 'Slicer', and I ran it through Netfabb and it verifies a problem with it. The problem is trying to repair it doesn't work for me, any advice for this part or maybe new file that can help? Thanks much!
I opened and exported the file using Blender, and Slic3r stopped complaining. I didn't print it, though - give the file a try:

box.com/s/lipvftefqgnf3had016v

You might need support turned on. It might be better to turn the part on its side, but perhaps it's rotated the way it is for strength reasons?
Thanks very much for the file Kongo! It appears to have loaded and sliced excellently now, and I will update in a few on the print (starting that now). The program I tried to fix it in is called 'Netfabb' but I think I am not very good with it. It does know there are errors in the file, but for some reason I can't figure out how to fix. I thhink Blendor is next on my list of must haves :).
Just an update, the file Kongo attached worked! I did print with the orientation the same as loaded. Ut did have to turn on support (and cut away when done). Not sure if this is needed, or you can simply lay on side and print without support. Eventorbot, please add the new file as I bet others will run into problems with 'x carriage part 2 p008.stl' when slicing. I sure hop some details come online for the hotend and the filament drive motor soon! :). I still have no idea on what to purchase for these two items as they haven't been detailed out yet (the filament drive motor says coming soon). If anyone knows of a workable hotend (preferably BUILT!) and/or drive motor that I can get ordered, please say the word!!
Assembly of Eventorbot. Extruder tutorial part 5: youtube.com/watch?v=Udy_GOt7I3Y
&
amp;feature=plcp

Assembly of Eventorbot. Y axis tutorial part 6: youtube.com/watch?v=JRFLkUnXfQE
&
amp;feature=plcp

Assembly of Eventorbot. Y axis tutorial part 7: youtube.com/watch?v=h4mqcd6UmM0
&
amp;feature=plcp

Assembly of Eventorbot. Y axis tutorial part 8: youtube.com/watch?v=m-9c5vNKFvY
&
amp;feature=plcp
Assembly of Eventorbot. Z axis tutorial part 3: youtube.com/watch?v=TSqShwyFCtg
&
amp;list=PLBjiHJtHgA7B4yWJ7Omt7FMuTumPR-c8f
&
amp;index=4
&
amp;feature=plpp_video

Assembly of Eventorbot. Z axis tutorial part 4: youtube.com/watch?v=-Hn966fX_pQ
&
amp;list=PLBjiHJtHgA7B4yWJ7Omt7FMuTumPR-c8f
&
amp;index=5
&
amp;feature=plpp_video
Assembly of Eventorbot. X axis tutorial part 2: youtube.com/watch?v=BKUsRDj9D6s
&
amp;feature=plcp
Assembly of Eventorbot. X axis tutorial part 1:

youtube.com/watch?v=evpfwuurSG0
&
amp;feature=plcp
What is the purpose of the springs on the bed? Don't they effect the accuracy of the bed allignment if the printed item is heavier on one side?
This is a standard feature on every 3D printer I've seen (repraps and the Ultimaker). They protect the bed in the event of a head crash. As long as the springs are tensioned tighter than the weight of a part, the bed won't move no matter how lopsided the part is.
Requested video of prints.:

youtube.com/watch?v=3LvzItaDIqM
&
amp;feature=http://youtu.be
Looks like a great design but do you really need to post out spam comments to Youtube ? :(
Sorry, did not intend to post any comments on youtube. Was trying to post a video reply. Please provide the link so I can try to delete the comment.
It's OK - comments have to be approved so didn't get published, but it appeared as though you were spamming our videos for the HP Designjet and UP! Printers.

Anyway, hope it goes well - it certainly looks good value for money
Any reason why the metal frame can not be replaced by a printed frame with flanges at the corner to bolt together?
Ummm, no not that I can think of. Sounds like it will work.
Just took apart the Eventorbot, for assembly tutorial video tomorrow.

Images: facebook.com/pages/Eventorbot/111169638934671
After you have finished the frame and have welded the corners together, you will also have to cut a 2.5" x 2.5" square on top of the frame (the corner caps will cover this corner).
Does anyone need a tutorial on how to cut the frame?
how much tolerance is needed? is it ok to do it manually? do you put template on part?
Would I be able to print a full 200mm in both x and y?
Awesome! Eventorbot is currently on the homepage of: makezine.com/
UPDATE:

Okay, so here is my current plans. I'm going to finish the tutorial videos and plans first (http://www.youtube.com/user/eventorbot should not take more then 3 videos). After that I will contact my metal company and see if they can use their plasma cutter to make the cuts and holes we need for our
frames.

For those who do not have access to a 3D printer. I have had experience making molds and using urethane plastic. I will try to make molds of the plastic parts and mold it with urethane plastic. This plastic is very rigid and durable, and is equal or better then ABS.

Note: For those who hav
e 3d printers. The main bed, that supports the linear rods will also be available, as many printers are not able to print it because of the size.
Is there a bigger build area one in the works for the future? To be able to use the standard mk1 hbp
There should be no problem using the MK1 Hot bed. The current bed is large enough. You will just need some clamps, to clamp it down, and use an aluminum sheet as the bed instead of pexi.
What electronics are you using? It looks like a printrboard or sanguinololu hole pattern.
Sanguinololu 1.3a
Nice job and good looking machine, how well is she printing and how fast?
Thanks Rich! I am a big fan of your youtube channel and blog page. It prints very well, actually better then my original reprap machine. It is currently printing at pronterface's original speed setting. Have not had a chance to play with the speed and max it out yet.
File #28 "Hardware.skp" shows the locations of all the screws. Please use the free google sketchup software, to zoom and view in 3D.
Too many printed parts
Odd complaint. I'm looking forward to a printer that can make all its own parts, without anything but electronics and motors to add on.
its great being able to print spare parts easily ... but when theres this many parts that require a 3d printer ... and this is your first , then it becomes a problem :/
What electronics are you using? Base on the blueprint it doesn't look like you'd be able to fit some of the larger makerbot electronics or the power supply inside the frame. Awesome job!
Sanguinololu 1.3a. Currently using a laptop charger for the power source. Which connects to the back of the "mother board tray". A xbox 360 power brick can be used if you wanted to add a hotbed. Thanks!
Just uploaded the schematic for the frame (2nd file).
The only tools I used for the frame was a jig saw, drill, and a tap kit I bought from ebay for $15.00. The weld was done by a local mechanic for $10.00.
The SketchUp file didn't appear to use components and there weren't any components for Eventorbot on Google 3D Warehouse. Do you mind if I post them from the Blue_print.skp ?
Feel free to.
I need the appropriate attribution information. How do you want me to attribute the models?
Magnificent. Looking forward to STLs and instructions, in whatever order you end up posting them.
Wonderful design! Great use of simple square section steel. Is it welded at the bottom junction or bolted?
Currently it is welded, but bolting it using brackets should not be a problem.
Are those panels lasercut or something else. you said tubes in descriptions. so there are pieces of tube?
It's just one piece of square tube that is cut 90 degrees on the corner to create the bend. Diagram of cuts and holes will be up later today.
As you requested, I would like the stl s and then while I am printing them I would be looking for the parts list.

Thanks...
I can work on the STL files or the parts list later tonight. Which one do you guys prefer first?
That is one solid, well-designed, and beautiful-looking printer. Best-looking one I've seen, in fact, after the 3D-One from Robot Factory. This is the next wave; no more skeletal erector-set-and-wooden-sheet contraptions. Tools, not toys!
Haha, don't knock the plywood sheet! Works pretty well at least compared to the prusa :/
I like the idea. I hope you will be able to upload the .stl files for all the printed parts. I have the metal working tools (Including a CNC plasma) to make the frame. So it would be a fun personal project.
Hopefully by the end of this week, I can post the files.
<
b
>
Just take my money! ,/b
&
gt;

:-P
<
/b
>
That's one seriously industrial looking 3D printer. I bet it's indestructible. What does it weigh? How much did it cost to build? How well does it print?
DIY $300. No more then $500.
VERY AWESOME!

Looks very sexy! It's about time we got some good looking printers.
Thanks!
That is an Awsome looking printer, nice job.
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