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Easy Bed Leveling Kit

by dynai, published

Easy Bed Leveling Kit by dynai Aug 23, 2012

Description

New Version Available!!!
thingiverse.com/thing:63796

Bed-Leveling allways was a nightmare to me. I payed a lot of attention when I first assembled my printer, i leveled everything, starting with the desk where i built the machine on it.
But i allways had problems once everything was assembled or if everything was fine and i had to move my machine i had to start all over again...

So while i could bring it down to a point where i could print "smaller" parts i recently printed parts that needed the WHOLE printbed-area.
So i decided to put a finger on my problem which seemed to bee the 2 Y-Axis Guides not beeing 100% parallel, and to adjust this i designed these replacement for the fixed Smooth-Rod holder.

Recent Comments

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Hi,

i see no problems in doing that, on version 2 of this design i attached a little descriptive picture of how this is intended to work -> http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

cheers Chris

wouldn't it be good to print out 4 for all 4 points ? I have a pursa styled printer and this seems to be the perfect design to help with bed leveling issues.

Want to give this a try as i have to relevel the bed every time i finish a print

hi,
hm when did the top-part break off? i've been using my first set now for over 6month and still working fine, if you could give some further input this might be valuable input.

the 2nd point is nice input and i think i will re-iterate the bed-leveler and try to solve this

your last point is mentioned in the print instructions those thin-walls are used for support so that no extra support material is needed and should be easy to cut with a knife or a drill, having support generated by the slicing software would be more painfull to get rid of and increase print time, not having these walls would make it hard to print the holes

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Instructions

I made these for my Orca 0.4 but as "ChrisMagno" pointed out these might work for Mendels as well ;)
EDIT: for mendel rotate my parts by 90° (assembly-top-view) the screw still pointing down,

I suggest to print the whole set so you will have parts that should fit into each other without any problems
Give it some 25 to 40 percent infill (i used 35)
3 Perimeters (Including Shell)

Printed mine in PLA at .2mm Layer Height with a .35mm nozzle

NO SUPPORT MATERIAL NEEDED (its all in the geometry)

cut the holes (8mm) free with a knife and drill if necesseray

The Only thing thats a little painfull (but only once) is:
YOU HAVE TO DISSASEMBLE THE Y-CARRIAGE to change the parts
and you WILL HAVE TO REPLACE THE FIXED SMOOTH-ROD HOLDERS AS WELL!

But from now on Bed-Leveling should be easy ;)

BOM:

2x M3x20 Zylinder-Head Screws (leftovers from the ORCA-KIT)
2x M3 Locknuts

2x Bed-Leveling-Sets (STL files)

Comments

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Creative_Hacker on Mar 8, 2014 said:

wouldn't it be good to print out 4 for all 4 points ? I have a pursa styled printer and this seems to be the perfect design to help with bed leveling issues.

Want to give this a try as i have to relevel the bed every time i finish a print

dynai on Mar 14, 2014 said:

Hi,

i see no problems in doing that, on version 2 of this design i attached a little descriptive picture of how this is intended to work -> http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

cheers Chris

dgm3333 on Mar 16, 2013 said:

DRAT: Unfortunately one of the side supports for the slider on the main
block broke off. The junction is only 2mm, so I think its it's a bit
under engineered at this point unless your printer is absolutely
perfectly calibrated. It's also 5mm too tall above the rod of my modified Prusa
(smooth rods are on top, but bed clearance is only 5mm above the smooth rod and 15mm above the threaded rod),
so the bed will contact. Finally the ends of the hole for the threaded
rod built filled in, so would have to drill them. Otherwise good idea.

dynai on Mar 17, 2013 said:

hi,
hm when did the top-part break off? i've been using my first set now for over 6month and still working fine, if you could give some further input this might be valuable input.

the 2nd point is nice input and i think i will re-iterate the bed-leveler and try to solve this

your last point is mentioned in the print instructions those thin-walls are used for support so that no extra support material is needed and should be easy to cut with a knife or a drill, having support generated by the slicing software would be more painfull to get rid of and increase print time, not having these walls would make it hard to print the holes

dgm3333 on Mar 16, 2013 said:

DRAT: Unfortunately one of the side supports for the slider on the main
block broke off. The junction is only 2mm, so I think its it's a bit
under engineered at this point unless your printer is absolutely
perfectly calibrated. It's also 5mm too tall above the rod of my Prusa
(mine is only 5mm above the smooth rod and 15mm above the threaded rod),
so the bed will contact. Finally the ends of the hole for the threaded
rod built filled in, so would have to drill them. Otherwise good idea.

jtktam on Nov 19, 2012 said:

can somebody confirm it will work with a prusa mendel i2?

thanks

Roach on Aug 26, 2012 said:

So what keeps the smooth rod from sliding out of the bed levelers in the case of some Y carriage binding?

Roach on Aug 26, 2012 said:

And I just realized, the rods on a Prusa hang under.

http://reprap.org/mediawiki/im...

That might need to be modified.

capitaenz on Aug 25, 2012 said:

Great idea! I'll try it on my Mendel Prusa.

ChrisMagno on Aug 23, 2012 said:

This is an amazing idea. I can see it being useful for all flavors of Mendel printers. Great work.

dynai on Aug 23, 2012 said:

I was not sure about this point but if one can provide proof i'll change the tittle of this thing :)

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