Easy Bed Leveling Kit
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Published on August 23, 2012
Description
New Version Available!!!
thingiverse.com/thing:63796
Bed-Leveling allways was a nightmare to me. I payed a lot of attention when I first assembled my printer, i leveled everything, starting with the desk where i built the machine on it.
But i allways had problems once everything was assembled or if everything was fine and i had to move my machine i had to start all over again...
So while i could bring it down to a point where i could print "smaller" parts i recently printed parts that needed the WHOLE printbed-area.
So i decided to put a finger on my problem which seemed to bee the 2 Y-Axis Guides not beeing 100% parallel, and to adjust this i designed these replacement for the fixed Smooth-Rod holder.
thingiverse.com/thing:63796
Bed-Leveling allways was a nightmare to me. I payed a lot of attention when I first assembled my printer, i leveled everything, starting with the desk where i built the machine on it.
But i allways had problems once everything was assembled or if everything was fine and i had to move my machine i had to start all over again...
So while i could bring it down to a point where i could print "smaller" parts i recently printed parts that needed the WHOLE printbed-area.
So i decided to put a finger on my problem which seemed to bee the 2 Y-Axis Guides not beeing 100% parallel, and to adjust this i designed these replacement for the fixed Smooth-Rod holder.
Instructions
I made these for my Orca 0.4 but as "ChrisMagno" pointed out these might work for Mendels as well ;)
EDIT: for mendel rotate my parts by 90° (assembly-top-view) the screw still pointing down,
I suggest to print the whole set so you will have parts that should fit into each other without any problems
Give it some 25 to 40 percent infill (i used 35)
3 Perimeters (Including Shell)
Printed mine in PLA at .2mm Layer Height with a .35mm nozzle
NO SUPPORT MATERIAL NEEDED (its all in the geometry)
cut the holes (8mm) free with a knife and drill if necesseray
The Only thing thats a little painfull (but only once) is:
YOU HAVE TO DISSASEMBLE THE Y-CARRIAGE to change the parts
and you WILL HAVE TO REPLACE THE FIXED SMOOTH-ROD HOLDERS AS WELL!
But from now on Bed-Leveling should be easy ;)
BOM:
2x M3x20 Zylinder-Head Screws (leftovers from the ORCA-KIT)
2x M3 Locknuts
2x Bed-Leveling-Sets (STL files)
EDIT: for mendel rotate my parts by 90° (assembly-top-view) the screw still pointing down,
I suggest to print the whole set so you will have parts that should fit into each other without any problems
Give it some 25 to 40 percent infill (i used 35)
3 Perimeters (Including Shell)
Printed mine in PLA at .2mm Layer Height with a .35mm nozzle
NO SUPPORT MATERIAL NEEDED (its all in the geometry)
cut the holes (8mm) free with a knife and drill if necesseray
The Only thing thats a little painfull (but only once) is:
YOU HAVE TO DISSASEMBLE THE Y-CARRIAGE to change the parts
and you WILL HAVE TO REPLACE THE FIXED SMOOTH-ROD HOLDERS AS WELL!
But from now on Bed-Leveling should be easy ;)
BOM:
2x M3x20 Zylinder-Head Screws (leftovers from the ORCA-KIT)
2x M3 Locknuts
2x Bed-Leveling-Sets (STL files)
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dgm3333
on
March 16, 2013
said:
DRAT: Unfortunately one of the side supports for the slider on the main
block broke off. The junction is only 2mm, so I think its it's a bit
under engineered at this point unless your printer is absolutely
perfectly calibrated. It's also 5mm too tall above the rod of my Prusa
(mine is only 5mm above the smooth rod and 15mm above the threaded rod),
so the bed will contact. Finally the ends of the hole for the threaded
rod built filled in, so would have to drill them. Otherwise good idea.
Roach
on
August 26, 2012
said:
So what keeps the smooth rod from sliding out of the bed levelers in the case of some Y carriage binding?
ChrisMagno
on
August 23, 2012
said:
This is an amazing idea. I can see it being useful for all flavors of Mendel printers. Great work.
License
Easy Bed Leveling Kit by dynai is licensed under the Attribution - Share Alike - Creative Commons license.
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DRAT: Unfortunately one of the side supports for the slider on the main
block broke off. The junction is only 2mm, so I think its it's a bit
under engineered at this point unless your printer is absolutely
perfectly calibrated. It's also 5mm too tall above the rod of my modified Prusa
(smooth rods are on top, but bed clearance is only 5mm above the smooth rod and 15mm above the threaded rod),
so the bed will contact. Finally the ends of the hole for the threaded
rod built filled in, so would have to drill them. Otherwise good idea.
hi,
hm when did the top-part break off? i've been using my first set now for over 6month and still working fine, if you could give some further input this might be valuable input.
the 2nd point is nice input and i think i will re-iterate the bed-leveler and try to solve this
your last point is mentioned in the print instructions those thin-walls are used for support so that no extra support material is needed and should be easy to cut with a knife or a drill, having support generated by the slicing software would be more painfull to get rid of and increase print time, not having these walls would make it hard to print the holes