Pocket-Tactics: Elves of the Shining Host against the Dwarves of the Mountain Holds
Description
This is the third set in the series (for the first two, head over here: thingiverse.com/thing:27257 and thingiverse.com/thing:28641 . With Elves vs Dwarves, we have an iconic fantasy opposition and this set really stands out from the other two in terms of style and strategy. Of course, either faction from this set can play against any of the factions from the first two, just as every future set will be compatible. We're really excited by the prospect of an ever-expanding universe of factions and locales from all genres (though we're going to thoroughly mine Fantasy first).
We'll be updating the progress of the game and provide expanded rules on our blog, so be sure and check us out there as well, and any of you makers should head over to check out our logo contest.
illgottengames.blogspot.com/
All models designed in the amazing Tinkercad: tinkercad.com/users/bHIdLANxoGl-arian-croft
Instructions
So, for the core set as I've designed it, you'll need the following (and I've included the colors you should paint things, though this is only a suggestion):
-3 Elven Archers (light green)
-2 Elven Realmguard (light green)
-2 Elven Way Watchers (light green)
-2 Elven Glade Scouts (light green)
-1 Elven Wurm Rider (light green)
-1 Elven War Mage (light green)
-3 Dwarven Warriors (gray)
-2 Dwarven Hold Guardians (gray)
-2 Stone Throwers (gray)
-2 Dwarven Tunnel Scouts (gray)
-1 Dwarven Noble (gray)
-1 Dwarven Forge Master (gray)
-1 Elven Santuary (light green)
-1 Dwarven Stronghold (gray)
-3 Village Tiles (tan)
-3 Cave Tiles (reddish brown)
-2 Hill Tiles (light green)
-6 Forest Tiles (dark green)
-6 Mountain Tiles (gray)
You'll also need a grip of six-sided dice (6 for each player) and it helps immensely if half of them are a different color. The rules are in super-beta mode (just finished writing them last night) so expect typos and confusion, but throw me some feedback and I can answer questions/clean up the document as we go. I'd definitely expect some of these abilities to change, but hey, who knows? ;-)
-Big props to our tech editor, John Peden (john@johnruddpeden.com) for this new, squeaky clean rules sheet
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This is some great work, thank you for your efforts. I am currently printing a set but it is not easy. I have a Prusa Mendel which I thought was doing well but the pictures of your prints puts mine to shame. I wasted a day and about 20 prints trying to get something even close, currently using .1 LH, 205deg, no retraction with PLA, 3.5mm nozzle. Still a lot of the detail is lost, and staffs/poles etc. are thin and misshapen. The larger parts are easier. But hopefully I'll have a workable set soon.
Would it be giving away too many secrets if you gave us some tips on painting? Whomever is doing this is very good. I'm been trying to figure out how he/she manages to get that washed effect which really shows up the details.
Again, thanks for this, I look forward to playing.
Hey, thank you very much. Yeah, these guys can be difficult to print. I do all of my printing on a Makerbot Replicator, so I can't say what it would be like on another brand of printer or how much that would differ. I print one model at a time (when I'm printing in ABS) and a whole set takes close to 8 hours. For me, layer height has been key in achieving the level of detail. I print at a .10 layer height. I've also had more success printing the models at 100% infiill, plus I like the heft it gives them (minor though it may be).
As for the paint job, yeah, I did that. I'm a traditional model painter, so I use model paints (Citadel, Vallejo, P3, etc). I start with a dark color (even spray paint can do the trick) and then dry brush a lighter color over it. I've been playing around with solid-color sets too, and I like the w
ay those look.
Keep me posted if you get them printed and throw a game down, I'd love to hear about it. And post pics!!
Have you made your own dice ?
As someone who hasn't played a game like this in many, many moons, I feel like classic dice take away from your aesthetic. Is there something about the weight of a standard die?
Excellent question. You know, I initially devised a system that had dice with the 3 symbols of the stats on them, though I ended up abandoning those for a few reasons: 1, its way more cost effective to buy standard 6-sided dice in bulk if this ever goes to mass production. 2, I had trouble printing them and (like you said) finding an even weight. 3, the standard d6 system I came up with tested better with my group and I suspect that it makes it more accessible to casual gamers who aren't as steeped in nerdery as am I ;-) All that being said, I will make another gamen soon that has special dice.
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I started to print this incredible set, however had many issues with the PLA on the Rep 2. HOWEVER, now with the new firmware update and software the models look incredible! The detail is perfect, and the overhangs present zero issues. I will post pictures once the full set is complete. Stunning work, the stuff you create is top in its class
Hey, that really means a lot to me! Thank you. I'm SO jealous of your Rep 2. Printing these in PLA on my Rep 1 provides the most ideal results, though only one print in five tends to get through to completion. I've actually done a second version of the first set which I'll be posting up later today. I'm probably going to re-design this one in that style as well, though I won't take this version down. Of the three PT sets I did in this style, this was the one of which I was most proud.