HDD Adapter 3.2
by Dojan, published
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I was looking for an adapter to put my 2.5" SSD drive in a 3.5" HDD bay, and found several nice designs, but none that could be screwed in from underneath, so I made one with all modern holes. It is possible to mount both the drive and the adapter in several different alignments and orientations. Does not obstruct airflow. The version with sunk screw holes can be mounted flat against a surface, with no screw heads from the small drive protruding from the bottom. The minimalist versions have lower sides, to save plastic and print time: However, it is less compliant with the 3.5" standard. Usually no biggie though.
Measurements taken from datasheet.octopart.com/FFD-25-IDEP-2048-N-A-M-Systems-datasheet-4668.pdf
This thing was made with Tinkercad. Edit online at https://tinkercad.com/things/0NNJxmj2D5o for the regular model,
https://tinkercad.com/things/9QvmtPOAdhD for regular minimalist, https://tinkercad.com/things/9pyJxELLzPO for the sunk screw hole model, or https://tinkercad.com/things/e6ugwhoLcmk for minimalist sunk screw holes.
Version history:
1.0 First try
2.0 Fix all the holes so they are in the right places, made the walls higher, so the measurement from the holes center to the edge is equal in both directions and according to specs, plus some cosmetic work.
3.0 Reworked most of the model to get more precise measurements, more air-holes, a more even hex-pattern, and to be easier and more modular to rework in the future.
3.1 Adjusted hole sizes, and removed one set of legacy holes.
3.2 Fixed some minor stuff that's been bothering me, and added the version with sunk screw holes, and the minimalist versions.
Instructions
Use M3 screws for the small HDD or SSD in the adapter, and 6-32 UNC 2B screws for the adapter in the 3.5" slot or drive-bay.
The adapter will fit in the drive-bay in any orientation, such as upside down, backwards and both at the same time.
The drive will fit in the adapter both forward-facing and backwards, aligned to the right, left, or middle, as well as placed some ways back.
If you are planning on mounting the 2.5" drive "inside" the adapter, consider printing the version with sunk screw holes
This is a fairly large print, and I suspect it would warp badly if printed in ABS.
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Worked great on Tazbot 5 with cura/slic3r, PLA, 205/70 temps. I expected to have to do some finishing work on the screw holes, or to widen them for the screws, but they're perfect. Well executed.
Hey, I LOVE this design.....butttt.... I had to remove my 3.5 slots to fit my video card... any chance you could modify this to fit a 5.25 slot?
Thanks!!!!!
James
Why in the world would you make that stupid pattern ?
Its hard for some slicers to generate it without breaking up continuous print line when using 3 perimeter shell.
Flat or some cutout would be OK, but this is like printing a fishing net.
Why thank you for your very considerate and constructive criticism!
Primarily I wanted a pattern that would allow as much airflow as possible. Other considerations were to save some fillament and printtime. The idea is that once you add the actual harddrive it will be more than sturdy enough. Also I thought it would look pretty this way. If you don't like it you are welcome to redesign it to your liking, or find another one, I won't mind. If you do redesign it, I will link to it here. I am sorry about your slicer, I was not aware of any such problems, and did not take that into acount. It slices nicely in Cura (http://software.ultimaker.com/ , also works with repraps and others). What slicer did you use that gave you problems?
Any slicer will have problem generating 3 lines of walls when printing with 0.4mm nozzle (standard)
You could just run 4 parallel beams across instead of all these holes and get even better structural support.
CURA has its on issues printing multiple perimeters. I was recommending it to everyone until i discovered craftware.
Only craftware retracts each time before starting to print another perimeter. Cura just slides to the next causing bad initial contact (nozzle gets wiped and filament pulled out during travel). It can be fixed by disabling combing, but it will retract so much it will make you want to trash your printer.
I brought up the issue many times, they have yet seriously considered it.
Too many perimeters is too many risks of having each one with bad start.
Injection molding this part would be awesome, but 3d printing needs completely different design. Much simpler and more uglier will make it more practical.
Cura certainly has it's issues, but this has printed well enough for me. I will look into Craftware, haven't heard of it before now.
Once again, I welcome you to improve on the design if you have ideas about how to make it better, there are links to the source in the descripion, and it's released under the GPL. I don't intend to develop this further right now.
What printer and filament are you using?
I have an Ultimaker and the ones in the pictures are printed with PLA. I don't remember exactly what I used for those, but something like 0.2mm layers, 2 shells, 25% infill would work well on my printer, especially if printed at a nice slow speed, like 30 or 40 mm/s. But I only knows about what works on my printer...
This is awesome. You saved me a little bit of money, but also like a weeks worth of waiting. Thanks!
I reused a 2.5 SSD for a PC build and needed an adapter. Your minimalist design was a perfect fit, thanks!
I have been trying to come around to doing that ever since you posted 3 months ago, but I don't seem to get time over for it any time soon. Sorry about that. You are welcome to do it yourself though, if you do a decent work of it I'll link to you here :)

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