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Replicator Keyboard Cover

by DDStarkey, published

Replicator Keyboard Cover by DDStarkey Sep 6, 2012

Description

I didn't like the fact that the circuit board for the keypad & LCD was exposed. This is an extruded cover that fits over the circuit board and plugs the chamfered hole in the bottom of the build chamber. No new hardware is necessary to install this cover.

Recent Comments

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Thank you DDStarkey!
A clever and clean design.
A very nice looking design with a precise fit! Had to scrape away support with more care than usual. I printed in PLA, changed the orientation but probably shouldn't have. No problem with warping at all. I used Aquanet hairspray on kapton. By the way, the hairspray seems to be related to SD card reading problems--so I printed this out to protect the SD card slot!
A very nice looking design with a precise fit! Had to scrape away support with more care than usual. I printed in PLA, changed the orientation but probably shouldn't have. No problem with warping at all. I used Aquanet hairspray on kapton. By the way, the hairspray seems to be related to SD card reading problems--so I printed this out to protect the SD card slot!

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Instructions

This is a larger build so I used:

  1. A raft so the corners didn't lift up during the build process.
  2. A build support with 1mm gap between the support and the object. I built this using ABS plastic filament, extruded at 250C and the build platform at 110C.

The screws that hold the circuit board are #4-40 thread and are made from plastic.

To install, remove the two screws on the left end of the LCD display and the two screws at the top of the rubber switch cover. I tapped the 4 holes in the extruded cover so I didn't stress the plastic screws that hold everyting together. Position the cover over the circuit board and place the wires coming down the front-right corner through the notch in the end of the cover. Install the 4 screws.

10/15/12 Update: Try using hairspray (Suave Extreme Hold 10 per MacGyver's recommendation) instead of the Kapton tape to better secure the build to the platform.

Thank you DDStarkey!
A clever and clean design.
A very nice looking design with a precise fit! Had to scrape away support with more care than usual. I printed in PLA, changed the orientation but probably shouldn't have. No problem with warping at all. I used Aquanet hairspray on kapton. By the way, the hairspray seems to be related to SD card reading problems--so I printed this out to protect the SD card slot!
A very nice looking design with a precise fit! Had to scrape away support with more care than usual. I printed in PLA, changed the orientation but probably shouldn't have. No problem with warping at all. I used Aquanet hairspray on kapton. By the way, the hairspray seems to be related to SD card reading problems--so I printed this out to protect the SD card slot!
A very nice looking design with a precise fit! Had to scrape away support with more care than usual. I printed in PLA, changed the orientation but probably shouldn't have. No problem with warping at all. I used Aquanet hairspray on kapton. By the way, the hairspray seems to be related to SD card reading problems--so I printed this out to protect the SD card slot!
A very nice looking design with a precise fit! Had to scrape away support with more care than usual. I printed in PLA, changed the orientation but probably shouldn't have. No problem with warping at all. I used Aquanet hairspray on kapton. By the way, the hairspray seems to be related to SD card reading problems--so I printed this out to protect the SD card slot!
Will this upgrade overheat the lcd and button panel control electronics due to aiflow being cut off? Will it fry my lcd and button panel? Please advise. thanks.

BTW, I printed it out with no warp, no crack, no peel off platform, BUT you have to use the dial gauge indicator and level the hbp to within +/- 0.01 mm and have a distance between nozzle and your hbp exactly 1/2 the height of your layers. Also, you have to have an enclosure/hood that is temperature regulated to over 100 degrees Fahrenheit. I did not even have to use a raft and it printed perfectly flat with no warp, no peel.
As far as I know, the LCD and buttons on the PCB don't generate any heat. I enclose my build chamber and have had no problems with overheating. Glad to hear you built yours without any issues.
I printed this in black ABS. The only thing that caught me out was shrinkage. Once printed and the support material removed, I found that I should have scaled it up by about 1% so that after cooling the holes lined up with the front panel. No problem with warping or adhesion: lots of ABS glue took care of that.

I sliced with MakerWare 1.1 so had all kinds of odd extra support material blobs on the print.
A little but of lift on the end, but not too bad to use.  
Could have used this last weekend when i was drilling holes in my replicator right above these electronics to attache a hinged door. I just taped paper over them to protect it, but this, as a permanent solution, would have been much better.
Tried printing but couldn't get the build support to work properly.

The result was that the print failed badly e.g. warping, splitting, sagging, yuk !!

Can you explain what settings you used on the Skeinforge 50 Slicing profile ?Thanks,SparkySD.
Took me 5 tries before giving up. This thing simply lives to peel! Finally got my hands on a can on Suave Extreme Hold 10 as per MacGyver's recommendation, and it worked on the first try.
Very pretty! I particularly like the way the cabling runs nicely into the channel along the side.
Wow, nice job! Looks nice and neat. Printing this this weekend.
I wish this was around before I shipped my Replicator. The female end of the cable got ripped off the circuit board from a loose part in the box. Makerbot support already sent me a new one at a reasonable cost. I will be sure to print this to protect the new board.
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