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Arcade Stick

by srepmub, published

Arcade Stick by srepmub Sep 8, 2012

Featured Thing!

Description

A printable working version of the wonderful Commodore/Atari/etc Arcade Stick from Suzo International. Connector, spring, steel bar, microswitches and rubber not included!

Recent Comments

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Hi there,

I'm an editor for MAKE and I'm writing up a list of useful 3D printed objects and I'd like to include your joystick. But I need your name to give you credit and the material you used. Can you email me this info ASAP?  sholbrookhttp://twitter.com/oreilly/ .com

Thanks,

Stett Holbrook
I guess in the long term we want to be able to print everything ourselves, but for now I am happy to buy standard components at the local hardware store.. :-) besides I wanted to exactly replicate this thing, so that meant using the same materials such as rubber..
I uploaded some photos of a mostly polished version as thing 30198! Results could be better, but my time for this is up for now (long trip).

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License

GNU - GPL
Arcade Stick by srepmub is licensed under the GNU - GPL license.

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If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag. Print Thing Tag

Instructions

Edit the .scad file to set your layer height, extrusion width and default wall thickness. As I got a bit lazy in the end, there will probably be some issues after changing these. Please let me know when you run into problems.

Next, have a look at the module 'separate_parts' to see how to generate each individual part. The module 'cut_through' may also be useful to check if everything fits. I didn't use any padding, so parts should fit exactly.

You'll need to enable support to print most of these parts. I used the default honeycomb support in Slic3r 0.9.1.

The MANUAL_SUPPORT setting adds some manual support and anti-warp structures. I added the anti-warp structures after noting the main upper part did not come out perfectly straight. So you may want to add some more anti-warp structures for this one too.

As I used an exact fit everywhere, it may require quite a bit of sanding to get everything to fit nicely, depending on your setup.

Replicate the PCB, either by etching it (I used Fritzing to create the copper mask, see the .fzz file) or using wires. Solder the microswitches to it (any large electronics shop should have these; you'll have to bend the firebutton one yourself).

Find a piece of 8mm steel bar, some kind of spring that fits inside the button, and a piece of rubber at least 13mm thick (local rubber shop?). For the spring, I used a piece of metal spiral found on a paper notebook. Cut the rubber to fit inside the main upper part. A fretsaw worked very well for me.

I'm not aware of a printable DE-9 connector, so you'll have to buy one, possibly create a printable version, or use the connector of an existing joystick. I'm planning on ordering one myself.

To test the joystick, I found it useful to simply peek at port 56321 or 56320.

I was originally planning on polishing the joystick before publishing it here, but I just couldn't help myself. I hope to add some photos of the polished version in a few more days.
Hi there,

I'm an editor for MAKE and I'm writing up a list of useful 3D printed objects and I'd like to include your joystick. But I need your name to give you credit and the material you used. Can you email me this info ASAP?  sholbrookhttp://twitter.com/oreilly/ .com

Thanks,

Stett Holbrook
I uploaded some photos of a mostly polished version as thing 30198! Results could be better, but my time for this is up for now (long trip).
Hi srepmub!

I am a PhD student doing research on the design of interactive objects for fabrication... would you mind answering a few questions about your design process? My email address is valkyrie at eecs dot berkeley dot edu. Great piece!
If you used some of the nice spring designs on thingiverse you could go back and make two more parts printable, or if the rubber can be changed to a planar spring, you could make a mold for Oogoo. (Google it)

You could also probably get rid of the steel rod and just print one! (I know if wouldn't be as strong).

That just leaves the micro switches... I'll get right on it.
I guess in the long term we want to be able to print everything ourselves, but for now I am happy to buy standard components at the local hardware store.. :-) besides I wanted to exactly replicate this thing, so that meant using the same materials such as rubber..
Having played with countless joysticks like this over the years the steel rod is necessary. I've snapped the shaft on more than one atari joystick. This thing is a great piece of work.
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