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T4 Quadcopter Mini 250 (5 inch props)

by Brendan22, published

T4 Quadcopter Mini 250 (5 inch props) by Brendan22 Apr 20, 2014

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Summary

This is a mini version of my T4 Quadcopter design. It uses the same concepts but is completely redesigned to fit into the "250" class of mini quadcopters.
This design is suitable for 5" props. If you are after something a little bigger there is now also the T4 Quadcopter Mini 315 that supports up to 8" props and a 2200mah battery - or just use the longer arms on this model if you don't need the battery space.
Check out the whole "T" copter family:

Features:

  • completely 3D printable (without support)
  • fully assembled frame weight less than 110 grams!
  • strong, simple assembly with no bolts to save weight! Everything is secured using 2.5mm zip ties.
  • includes three arm options - 24mm, 28mm, and 30mm motor cup (inside diameter). The 30mm cup has slots for 3mm motor bolts (the others are 2mm).
  • strong braced tube section arms with plenty of room to conceal motor wiring
  • designed for a 3S battery (1000 - 1500mah) located right in the centre of rotation/thrust (88 x 38 x 22mm capacity).
  • plenty of space to mount ESCs - concealed but still well ventilated for cooling.
  • top plate has space for a variety of flight controllers and a Mobius style camera. It also features 3mm mounting holes so stand-offs could be used to add an additional deck of components. Alternatively two hex holes are available to add 3D printed posts and rear upper deck.
  • RF "invisible" frame - as opposed to carbon fiber or aluminium
  • Sketchup file included so you can make changes to suit yourself

    History

    2 September 2014
    Legs for your T4 Mini are now available.
    12 August 2014
    Version 1.4
    New vibration isolating top plate option. This option is compatible with previous body and all other components. It replaces the top plate with one that has mounting points for 65 gram vibration damping balls that then connect to a new floating plate to hold your flight controller and camera.
    New files:

  • T4MiniVibrationTopPlate.stl
  • T4MiniVibrationFloatingPlate.stl
    Also updated Body.stl to slightly raise the arms giving a bit more strength in the arm sockets.
    20 July 2014
  • Added T4MiniArm30mm7inch.stl so that "blackdice" can experiment with bigger (7") props. Also added T4MiniArm28mm7inch.stl
    12 July 2014
    Version 1.3
  • Added T4MiniTrayShallow.stl as requested by "p25o1". This low profile bottom tray reduces the available height to 7mm (compared to 14mm original).
    (no other files have changed)
    1 June 2014
    Version 1.2
  • added T4MiniArm30mm.stl which has a 30mm internal cup to fit motors such as the Lumenier 2206-11. This arm also has slots for 3mm motor bolts (the others are 2mm).
  • T4MiniBatteryPin.stl has also been updated to add a small tab to make it easier to install and remove the battery pin.
    (no other files have changed)
    31 May 2014
    No changes to the files but I've just replaced my Multistar ESCs with 12amp Afro ESCs (SimonK firmware) and its made a huge improvement. Even the cheapo Multistar 1704 motors sound better. I'm about to fit some Lumenier 2206-11 motors so we'll see how that goes...
    26 April 2014
    Version 1.1
  • improved method for attaching top plate and bottom tray to the body.
  • slightly increased zip tie hole sizes to make them easier to thread through.
  • thicker top plate (2mm) with rearranged rubber band and hex post mounting points at the rear.
  • new posts and plate added to give an additional layer for mounting the receiver or other items.
  • new slots in the rear of the bottom tray so cables can be threaded up the back of the T4 to suit some flight controllers.

Instructions

Printing

I printed all parts in PLA, 0.25mm layers with 40% infill, 2 shells and 3 top/bottom layers. Feel free to experiment. I didn't play around too much with the settings as these gave me a good strong result.
Fitting the top plate and bottom tray
Both the top plate and bottom tray are designed to slide from front to back (at 45 degrees) as they are being fitted into the body. In particular the top plate needs to be pressed firmly down onto the 8 angled guides as you slide it back. Once in place the top plate will clip onto the smaller bumps near the rear cable tie mount (just above the rear arms). Look closely at the parts and it will all become clear.
Calibration test
T4MiniTestSocket.stl contains a cut-down socket you can use for testing the fit of your arms before committing to the full Body print.
A quick word about scaling
According to Wikipedia apparently "there is no scale information [in STL files], and the units are arbitrary". There is often confusion with STL files and metric versus imperial (inches) units. I designed these parts in Sketchup using metric units and they import correctly into my slicer (which is also set to metric). If you have issues, check your application to see if has a way to select metric or alternatively scale down by a factor of 25.4.
Also, the Sketchup file contents are scaled up by 1000 (attempt to solve some Sketchup quirks). I scale each component down by 0.001 before exporting the STL so they are in real millimetre sizes.

What you'll need

  • 4 arms (9 grams, 0.5 hour print each*)
  • 1 body (40 grams, 2.75 hour print*)
  • 1 top plate (12 grams, 1 hour print*)
  • 1 bottom tray (14 grams, 1 hour print*)
  • 1 battery pin (almost nothing, real fast)
  • 2 posts (optional)
  • 1 post plate (optional)
    *times were recorded on my Makergear M2 printer which has a 0.35mm nozzle and was printing at 4500mm/min.
    ...and "hardware"...
  • 2,5mm (wide) zip ties (approx 100mm long)
  • some foam for padding the battery compartments. I ended up using self adhesive window draft-stop tape from my local DIY store.
  • some Kyosho Zeal Gel or similar anti-vibration gel and rubber bands for mounting the flight controller and camera.
  • double sided adhesive foam tape (for mounting other electronics)
  • soldering gear and connectors to suit your electrical bits
    ...and stuff to make it fly...
  • I pinched most of the gear from one of these ARF kits ...the quality is a bit average but it flies.
  • UPDATE: 12amp Afro ESCs (SimonK firmware) made a big improvement.
  • UPDATE: I'm now running Lumenier 2206-11 motors and Gemfan 5x3 propellers.
  • I added a KK2 flight controller (because I had an old one lying around). There are probably better options but I haven't investigated yet.
  • You'll also need a Radio control receiver (and transmitter) (eg a Taranis) The X8R receiver really is too big for this size model but it was all I had here so that's what I used.

If your new to RC copters then the ArduCopter wiki is a great place to find out everything you need know.

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what were the exact parts you used on this drone?

I printed the body with the recommended settings, but I've broken the body with minor crashes the past 2 times I've flown. The arms are incredibly strong and if impact with ground and arm then the body cracks around the arm mounts. Has anyone had this issue and if so any recommendations on good print infill settings that helped this issue?

Currently printing this on my UP Mini, had to scale it down 0.976 to fit the 120mm bed. So everything electric wise might not fit. But still fun to see the end result. Don't really care if it flies or not. :D

Hi Brendan22

what remote control would you use for this? I'm new to quads and I only have a hobbyking(?) remote that I used for my 3-channel rc plane (which broke). Please help.

Also, if someone could please tell me how much the different parts cost that would be great. Finally, could someone tell me how long it took to build this and how complicated it was? Thank you very much. :)

Missing File for the ARM long for 24mm

Thanks again I love the design! I printed the complete thing in PLA but I found that when the motors get a little warm after longer flights the arms begin to get soft anf the screws of the motors getting undone by this :/ reprinting the arms in ABS next week

I have it all printed. its sweet!. started wiring. should I put the flight control board on the top plate that is dampened? (im running low on room ) or should i put it under the dampened plate. I'm using a really small flight controller. http://www.getfpv.com/multi-rotor-frames/mini-multi-rotor-store/mini-flight-controllers/afromini-amaze-rev3-mini-naze32.html

Just not sure if the flight controller should be dampened or not.

Thanks.

Normally the flight control should be dampened to stop vibrations from messing up the accelerometer readings. You could always mount it using some double-sided vibration foam or one of the many other methods described on the internet.

Ok thanks!

Jun 25, 2015 - Modified Jun 25, 2015

Bonehead question, there seems to be a assortment of arms in different sizes? which should I print.

Edit: Oh i guess it depends on what motors? I havn't bought motors yet.. I should print the body out first then?

Good question :). The number in mm is the size of the "cup" that holds the motor so measure the size of your motor and then add a couple of millimetres for clearance (eg. for 28mm diameter motor use 30mm cup). Unless mentioned otherwise the arms are long enough to fit 6 inch propellers (7 inch options are named as such).

Thanks makes sense thanks!. I have most of it printed out now in Colorfabb XT .. wanted to try that instead of abs or pla, seems strong but kinda flexy may have to reprint in PLA. Waiting for my electronics now

May 20, 2015 - Modified May 20, 2015

Great design and superb video support! Brendan if you are interested we are building this with kids in our Make Club. Are you keen to vid cont with them?

Hi guys,
finally, after few months, i was able to finish the installation of components. I am using openpilot CC3D and i wonder, what for setup do you use guys, with this contoller? X or H? And what of tuning did you do in the GCS, please?
Anyway, thanks again to Brendan for his great design

How much does the equipment cost?

Where I can buy the gums anti-jellow for the flight controller?

hobby king has them

Hi Brendan.

I´m Very interested in your design, do you mind giving me your email so i can drop you a line privately?

Thanks in advance.

Juan Esteban Lopez

Hi Juan. You can message me from my Thingiverse profile page. I'm pretty overcommitted at the moment though so I apologise if there is a delay in responding.

Feb 21, 2015 - Modified Feb 21, 2015

Hello, this is the first time I'll make model airplanes. For these motor brusshless "http://www.ebay.fr/itm/4x-A2212-1000Kv-Brushless-Outrunner-Motor-For-Airplane-Aircraft-Quadcopter-E-/111124462968?pt=FR_YO_Jeux_RadioComRobots_VehiculesRadiocommandes&hash=item19df88bd78" Engine Size: 27mm x ?27.5, do I print the arms that are 28mm in diameter? (I prefer to ask for no wrong and pay dearly.)
thank you

It would be safer to use the 30mm cup for that motor. In saying that the 1000KV motor might be a little slow with a 5" prop for this copter. My motors are about 2300KV and they work well.

Remember that KV = 1000 rpm per volt so 2300KV motors are going to spin the propeller 2.3 times faster than a 1000KV motor at the same voltage.

In saying that I might be wrong - I'm constantly surprised by combinations that work - and those that don't!

thank you for your reply and your advice, I will see on ebay for faster engine;

Thanks posting the video. I just wish I'd kept learning French after high school! It was nice to see that this frame survived the first 4(?) crashes while you were getting it "tuned" ;-).

The small wobbles when descending into your own prop wash are normal. However I suspect that the big GoPro-on-a-stalk might make it extra hard for the flight controller once the GoPro starts wobbling around too.

Jan 29, 2015 - Modified Jan 29, 2015

Hi guys,
first of all, thanks a lot for the great design, Brendan.
Now, i have a small problem with the print.I switched lately from slic3r to cura, because it gives me apparently better results, especially in the areas where the fill should connect to perimeters (this effect is most significant in the bottom and top layers, slic3r leaves small gap here, while cura is much more neat and precise, also scaling in cura works much better imho)
So, i printed the body with my Mendel and sliced with cura and the result is very clean and everything, but the weight of the body is 55g instead of the 40 announced in instructions. 15g thats a huge difference.
Please, what is your body weight? (well, not YOUR body, but the body of the quad, you know :P)

I've never weighed my body without arms (and legs) attached! :-) A bit the same for my Mini T4 - it's all assembled now so I've only got my notes from when I printed it - which is what's shown on the instructions tab.

Perhaps others can chime in with their (mini T4) body weights...

Hello everyone,

Printing my copter now and had a question. Is the HobbyKing KK2.1.5 ppm compatible? Cant seem to find this out on their site. If not, what would be a good alt based on price and size?

Here is my list of parts I am looking to buy for this copter but I am not sure if they are all a good fit.

Vibration Damping Ball (65g) (Bag of 8) $1.04 15
TX-9X-M2 - Turnigy 9X 9Ch Transmitter w/ Module & 8.. $59.99
9536000003-0 - Multistar Elite 2204-2300KV Set Of 4 CW/.. $66.99
Tz12A - HobbyKing 12A BlueSeries Brushless Speed.. $33.20
9171000525-0 - HobbyKing® KK-Mini Multi-Rotor Flig.. $24.99
329000310-0 - Gemfan 6030 Multirotor Propellers One Pa.. $7.85
ZC.1300.3S.25 - ZIPPY Compact 1300mAh 3S 25C Lipo Pack $19.94

Gundy,

I'm new to this, and your parts list looks helpful to someone trying to assemble a low-cost quad for my grandkids. Would you mind letting me and others know how this build goes with the parts you've selected?

Wishing you a successful launch!

Tom

Try searching for CPPM. From memory you just plug your receiver onto #1 input pins and enable CPPM in the menus.

Hi, could you share with us your PID tuning?

For what flight controller, firmware version, motors, propellers, ESC combination? They will all affect the PIDs you need. Your best bet would be to follow the instructions available for your flight controller for PID tuning. They may well make special mention about different starting PIDs for small or mini quads as they tend to have lower values (in most firmware) than bigger quads. The defaults in most firmwares are conservative and should still be an okay starting point.

I can not find motor options for 24mm arms. It seems 28mm diameter is the most common motor. However the 24mm arm is the most downloaded. Can someone help?

Brendan thanks a lot for this design. This will be my first build and I am overwhelmed about which parts to use. I was going to get the HobbyKing as you did and use those parts but would like a better quality build. I chose to print the 24mm motor arms. Could you recommend a good entry level set of parts, or direct me to a place that could? It would be greatly appreciated.

-Ray

I have been trying to print the main body but when I try and print the first layer, as soon as it gets to the small holes in the middle it seems like they don't completely print and they don't always stick... do you have any tips to getting this first layer to print? I'm using a printrbot metal simple and printing in pla....

I mix ABS and acetone together in a jar. It turns into a milky substance, then you spread it on the build plate the acetone evaporates and leaves a thin sheet of ABS. IT REALLY WORKS. After the print is finished use a dust-off can and turn it upside down and it will cool the print so quickly that it will just pop off. If you have any more questions feel free to email me at [email protected]

Hi Brendan the kk2 board allows you to enhance the PR values but i need to know what the degree offset the front bars are. Im pretty sure the back ones are offset to 45 degrees. Do you know what offset the front ones are. Sorry that the website stole your design for money I would be very frustrated some people just don't have common sense. Thank you for the great design you really got every detail perfect.

It may not look like it but this quad is actually a symmetrical X shape - unlike the bigger T4 which is a true "dead cat".

The advanced mixer settings need to be changed it was a 20 degree offset once i changed that the drone flies perfectly. You might look into this.

Thanks for posting the link. They did the full sized T4 too. I did post a comment asking them to remove that one (or at least reference this page) but I got no response. I wonder if they sold any.

Hi Brendan22 Could you supply me with the cad file for the bottom tray? I would like to create a release mechanism for the T4 Mini that looks as elegent as your design. could you email the file to me? [email protected] Thanks You can really see the time you have put into your design.

No problem. The Sketchup (SKP) file is already in the downloads :)

I was wondering what that was I use SolidWorks I will see if i can convert the file Thanks

Nice project ! But do you have a bill of material ? I can't find it :-/

Thanks !!

Only what's mentioned on the instructions page. Everyone has their own preference of parts and suppliers. One contributor set up a Google docs spreadsheet for the full sized T4 with parts options - perhaps someone would like to do the same for these minis (I'm short of time sorry).

First of all thanks for the designs Brendan, it´s a great proyect!

I´m trying to print all the parts, but having the same problem with the vents breaking I´m printing on a prusa i3, does anyone have a solution for this? or any settings that would help? (I was thinking on higher shell count but not sure if that would do anything), I am using the suggested settings from the instructions.

Ok, not sure about the settings I'm sticking with the recommendations here. but I'm about to start a print with a new slice from slic3r 1.1.7. I have a mekerfarm prusa i3 which recommended using slic3r 0.9 but the new slice looks much better specially in the areas of trouble. will post results.
Thanks again.

This looks awesome!
I would love to make one but am on a very tight budget...
Does anyone know what would be the cheapest possible parts I could run this on and would it at all be possible to get it in under £100 including a camera?
Thank you

Brendan,

Any chance you might make arms for the 250 like the Y6 where you bolt the the motor mount to the arms? I have used this on my T4 and found it to be much stronger and easier to work with. My cups on the 28mm -3mm seem quite flimsy. Of course my motor mount is 34mm from center to center in case you were wondering.

thanks

Kane

Hi Kane. I'm running on zero spare time for these projects at the moment. Hopefully someone can pick up the Sketchup file and have a go for you. It would be great if they posted it as a derived thing.

Cheers, Brendan.

Thanks for the reply! I might be able use the regular version. It just that for some reason makerware slices the out layer as two walls that have a very small gap in between them so they do not bond together making it very weak. I have tried 100% infill but it did not change anything.

The vents on the side have broken on two builds... would it be possible to get the CAD file so I could strengthen them?

Sure the Sketchup CAD file is already in the downloads :-)

what type of camera did you use?

Not sure if you're asking me or Arbormor? Mine is a Mobius. Cheers, Brendan.

Wow man you can fly!! I'm almost done printing one of these, but its for a friend.

Hello again Brendan22,
Sorry but I am unable to modify anything of your design with sketchup.
Could you please modify your 28mm arm for 5 inch propellers to accept M3 screws for motors. I have 4 cobra 2204 I would like to try in your mini T, but they have 3mm holes.
Thank you!

I've added T4MiniArm28-3mm.stl for you. Let me know if it needs any tweaks.

Oct 8, 2014 - Modified Oct 8, 2014
Abormor - in reply to Brendan22

Thank you very much Brendan22!!!
That was a really fast help!
Printing it right now

Hello Brendan22,
I have recorded a video with my remix of your design in FPV, hope you like it!!
And thank you again for sharing it , it is fantastic!!
http://youtu.be/iu97fqEjFB8

Just awesome!! Thanks for posting. I'd be very happy to add this video to the main post above if you'd like that?

Of course, you are wellcome to use it as you like!!
Thank you

Hi Brendan, Would you recommend single ESC's or something like a Q-Brain for this model?

I imagine you'd be looking more a separate ESCs in the 10-12 amp range (depending on your motors, props, and battery). I'm pretty sure a Q-Brain wont fit.

This comment has been deleted.

Amazing job, top notch design. I thank you for the great work.

Hey Brendan

This looks awesome!!!! Cant wait to print my own:) Could you please tell me all the hardware and electronics you have on it? Thanks:)

Not much time to reply at the moment. I'm basically running the bits shown on the Instructions tab but using a MiniAPM controller and GPS like this one: http://www.goodluckbuy.com/miniapm-v3-1-ardupilot-mega-2-6-external-compass-apm-flight-controller-with-lea-6h-gps-for-multicopter.html

One day, if I get time, I'd like to try one of these too (I've got as couple here): http://abusemark.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=45

Awesome thanks:) I"m looking at building this as basic and with as little cost as possible. What are some motors that will work and that are relatively cheap? Thanks:)

Has anyone else run into problems while slicing the body? Slic3r tells me there's a hole and then the resulting code looks like a big block instead of the nice unit it's supposed to be. The tray and arms have all worked good, but not so much with the body. I've even tried running a repair on it in Netfabb to no avail. Does anyone have a nifty ninja secret on how they've gotten theirs to slice or how to clean up the holes in the mesh? I'm running a solidoodle 2 with repetier host/ slic3r if it helps any.

I just did a double check on the body STL file and it passed the tests I've got here. I don't use Slic3r so I probably can't help much. Perhaps try posting on their forums: http://forums.reprap.org/list.php?263

Got it sorted. I used Netfabb's cloud repair service (free) to mend it. Printed like a champ! Now I've just got to wait on electronics....

Hi brendan,
Im using a hkpilot mini apm fc as well. How is it getting along for you?
Still setting mine up.

Could you please share the case you made for the gps as well as the apm?

Thanks

Marc

Sep 2, 2014 - Modified Sep 2, 2014
Brendan22 - in reply to marc5

HI Marc. I've published the HKPilot case here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:448929

...and here's the GPS case too: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:448932

HKPilot Mega Mini Case
GPS case (LEA 6H + Compass)

Great design, just wondering how do you control the quadcopter? Is there an app or do you have to buy a remote and how long is the print on a cube x?

My only experience is using a standard remote control transmitter and receiver (like mentioned near the bottom of the instructions tab). I believe there might be flight controllers out there that can use Bluetooth or Wifi but I don't know anything about them. It all depends on what components you decide to install in this frame.

I don't have a Cube X sorry so I've go no idea how long it might take to print. There are some print times on the instructions page too (for my printer) This one is definitely a lot quicker than the full sized T4.

Hello
could you post screen shots of yours KK2's settings please ?
I'm using RCTimer 1806 motor with AFRO 12A ESC and KK2.1.5
but i have got sometimes a very little wobbling …
thanks for your help and to have post your STL files

Please see my reply to Ktronik (next question) below.

Aug 14, 2014 - Modified Aug 14, 2014

wow, new stuff looks great!!!

got mine up in the air now....11min with 3S 1500mAh...

I was wondering if you could take a quick pic of your PI editor screen on the KK2.1, and the SL screen....I would love to dial your setting in, and use them as a base level setting for me to tune my one from....

many thx

Kerry

Hi Kerry. Sorry I pulled out the KK2 (which I never did bother tuning completely) and have replaced it with a mini APM: http://www.goodluckbuy.com/miniapm-v3-1-mini-ardupilot-mega-2-6-external-compass-apm-flight-controller-for-multicopter-fpv.html

Holy Hell! now thats a FC good find there.....please report back on how it flys!! and if its fly heaps better than the KK2.*

This comment has been deleted.

hey guys, any mixer setting for this spydr yet??

Standard X frame quadcopter mixing is perfect. Do you mean PIDs for tuning? If so, that will depend on your flight controller, ESC, motor and prop combination.

Aug 6, 2014 - Modified Aug 6, 2014
Ktronik - in reply to Brendan22

Hey Brendan,

sorry mate, my bad I am a newby....I mean anyone one got KK2. mixer editor setting....I read that for kk2. you run the X-motor config, and change the setting in the 'mixer editor' to make up for the spider shape....if you use the stock settings it fly's OK, but will need tuning....just wondered if anyone has got some of the tuned settings... as its a bit of a art form, I would be happily guided by someone in the know....that uses a KK2.* FC.... I just printed my one out and it looks great!!!

RCT HP1806 2300kv, SK12A ESC 5030 props....

No worries. The T4 mini designs are actually X configurations. Although the arms are on different angles, the motors all end up symmetrical and equidistant from the centre of gravity. The body is effectively just "moved forward" - the front section is taken up with the front arm sockets and the main weight (battery) is in the COG.

(not to be confused with the full sized T4 which is indeed a "V" configuration)

OMG too good!!....no stuffin around needed, as its a true X config....nice work!! can't wait to get it flying!!

Another request :-).
Could/would you lengthen the body by about 35mm so the trusty 2200mah battery will fit? Maybe you can put all of the crazy add ons into a T4 Mini X (experimental) section? I dunno, maybe that would push this little guy into another class.
Cheers either way :-) :-)
Dan

Jul 27, 2014 - Modified Jul 27, 2014
Brendan22 - in reply to danskinn

Dan, this one's for you... http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:408363
Cheers, Brendan.

T4 Quadcopter Mini 315 (7-8 inch props)

Oh yea, actually I got a 4000mah battery for this guy which I'm gonna experiment with. Thank you once again for helping us out! Once i get the battery i'll see how much space i'll need to add in order to fit it.

So are these 'arms' just a scaled down version of the t4 arms...if so how much are they reduced, as I need to do that to the 'legs' for landing, as the base on this MINI is light weight and think it might break if I land hard....I think I can just shrink your T4 legs and make them fit here....;)

The arms were drawn from scratch so I doubt a scaled version of the big T4 legs would be useful. For what it's worth I've "dumped" my mini down on it's bottom tray quite a few times and it seems to survive fine - It is stronger once tied in to the body. That's once of the advantages of the "full body" design. Legs are useful to make space to hang a gimbal - but that's not really an option on the mini anyway.

just printed the base and body...together they are super tuff!! :) gunna mod your T4 legs to go on my mini anyway, to keep dirt out of the base....you have grass in NZ, we have dirt in OZ...;) also gunna play with using the base as a lid....for more 'bad arse' factor....really this little quad and whole T4 / T6 series so damn impressive...and the stiffest build I can find without going to a carbon rod....so well done Brendan!!

How did you manage to print the body on the mini ? It is 1mm to large to be printed flat, and I have not been able to print it at 45°

Are you talking "T4 Mini quadcopter" or "UP Mini" printer?

Well both realy :D I'm trying to print the T4 mini 250 on my up! mini, which print area is 12x12x12 (I'm talking cm here). Arms where no issue, but the body is to wide, by a very frustrating less then 1 mm ! I've try to dl sketchup to decrease a little bit the rounded area to win that portion of a mm, but I've not been able too so far. I've tuned my mini settings to try to print it at 45° angle so that it fits the print volume, will know in 6 hours or so if it failed or not, but if you could to some magic and decrease 'flat' size to 12cm, that would be wonderfull !

If it can help someone, I have a Up!Mini too, and I want to print the T4 mini. For the body, a very simple tweakage: scale the model to 98%, the arms fit very well (event at 97.5% with the test socket) and the body fit in the printer's area :)

I won't be able to make my T4 mini lfy until march, but I don't think the "scaled-down" will be a problem.

no probs, thx Brendan!! I am good at crashing!!! and will test it well!! :)

This beats any bendy arm quad around, and the fact that it fits my UP printer means you are a legend!!!

Hi Brenden22 what is your flight so far? Which motors are you using currently too? And how would you recommend increasing flight time?

I'm currently got the Lumenier 2206-11 motors installed but have been too busy on other projects to do much flying since they were installed - just a couple of test flights. There is always a trade off between battery capacity and weight. You really need to just run some tests with your own motors & props to decide. The other basic principles don't really work in this size quad (bigger props and slower motors) and quads this size are more about performance than endurance anyway. If you want 15+ minute flight times try the T6 :-)

Ah ok, I was wondering too if its possible to mod the arms longer and have larger prop mounted on? Thus creating longer flight time? I plan on using this and flying this indoors for a minimum of 25 mins hence trying to brainstorm ideas on extending the flight time but maintaining this size if not T4 size. any ideas would be gladly appreciated thank you =)

If you want to experiment with larger props I can easily do an extended arm for you. What size motor cup do you need and how much longer do you want the arm?

I am actually thinking, 1450 Kv 160 W 7inch prop? Would it work?

Whether it will give longer flight times will depend on the capacity of your battery and how much current that particular motor will use given:

  • the all up weight of the finished vehicle including battery (bigger battery gives more capacity but motor will draw more current to keep the extra weight in the air)
  • the props you choose
  • your flying style (ie hover versus active flight)
    I not that motor may require 30amp ESCs too which might be a struggle to fit?
    I think 25 mins from a quad in this class might be difficult to achieve but I'd love to see it.
    I can make an arm that will fit that motor and a 7" prop ...just confirm that's what you want before I start.

It turns out it was a pretty quick change so I've just added T4MiniArm30mm7inch.stl for you to test with. Please post your findings back here.

Hey Brendan thanks for helping out really appreciate it. We bought our motors from hobbyking this one http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=36719http://www.hobbyking.com/hobby... which has a 28mm cup.
We bought two sets of props
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=56920http://www.hobbyking.com/hobby...
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=38705http://www.hobbyking.com/hobby...
We will try both style of props to see what result we will get.

Very good. Just one note, you may want to print the arm with the 30mm cup to give a bit of clearance for the 28mm motor can.

awesome! thank you once again. I'll print out the 30mm arm and test fit and post result here. What software do you use to design by the way? =)

Simple question for people who setup this up already. What flight configuration are you using on flight controller, 'x' or '+' or 'H'?

Just simple "x" configuration will work.

That what I was thinking by wanted to confirm. Thanks!

Scratch that. User error. ;) Rear props were on backwards. #redface.

What battery did you have in there? Maybe I put in too big of a battery, as it keeps tipping backwards, even with full forward elevator. I'm having to add a lot of ballast, and better, but still pretty bad.

very nice frame, the arms are really good.
i printed the frame with an extra shell , which ended up having a gap between the shells :-( , will need to work on my slicer
can you please crate a lower profile tray it will be rally cool.

I find the current tray is a comfortable fit for all of the ESCs and power wiring. It has 14mm of clearance. How much clearance do you think you can get away with?

got some new esc from http://flyduino.netflyduino.net (KISS ESC) they are tiny 12 x 23 mm and around 4mm thick and no capacitor needed :-)
6 to 7mm clearance if possible will be nice

Your wish has been granted - see version 1.03 and T4MiniTrayShallow.stl

wooooow , thx a ton :-) !!!!!
i'm out of home now , but it will be the first thing to print once i'm back ,,, cant wait

Anyone willing to print this and build it out for me? I'm located in Virginia. I'm serious by the way. Cheers.

I have about 10 of these things printed out lol. All are different color combos. I even printed two at 125% scale, looks awesome, and can fit 28mm motors like the big quads. I can send you a pic of the frames so you can take your pick.
[email protected]

Hello Brendan22, congratulations for your design, it is fantastic!!
I have printed one and those arms are really strong! I used an UM2.
I would like to customize your design for my fpv gear, but I dont use sketch up.
I left you here a video from the Spidex micro I tested so you can see the fpv gear I use.
My recomendation for motors on micro multirotors are rcx 1804( myrcmart) and for bigger pockets t-motors 1806. props 5x3
The best esc are blue series 12 Amp, you have to flash them with simonK firmware.
hope this helps.
Thank you for sharing!!
https://vimeo.com/81756075https://vimeo.com/81756075

Those multistar engines absolutely hate impacts of any sort, the shaft bends super easily and you can't replace it unfortunately. Gone through a few now, even a couple small flips while tuning the KK board was all it took to screw them. Nice quad BTW :p

Yeah the Multistar ESCs are a little disappointing too - and really difficult to update the firmware (requires soldering to legs on a very small SMD package).
I like this Mini T4 design so I think it's worth trying to find some better hardware. I'm open to recommendations if anyone knows of some good mini motors in stock (and that can ship to New Zealand).

Just snagged this new Motor/ESC/Prop kit from RCTimer:
http://www.rctimer.com/product_1136.htmlhttp://www.rctimer.com/product...
So far so good! Great looking motors and CF props! A little cramped in the ESC compartment but it does eventually all fit. I soldered the 2mm plugs directly onto the ESC to avoid extra wire, but this made the ESC's a bit longer and harder to move. May have contributed to the cramped fit.
Running it on 3S but it is supposed to be fine with 4S as well. Just gotta find a 4S that fits in the battery compartment, or design one a bit bigger.
I'll send pictures once I'm happy with the setup, but hovers just over 1/3 throttle with a Naze32, FrSky D4R-II and Mobius all mounted. Very snappy response so far, so it might be a perfect FPV racer!
FYI, I had tried the (pricey) MT1306-3100kV motors with Plush 6A ESC's running BLheli. Naze32 as well, and it was not a great flyer. Lots of wobble that appeared to be from vibration. Had it fall out of the sky a few times with RCTimer 6A ESC's w/SimonK when an ESC would reboot on one motor, even after replacing it 2 times. I think it was going overcurrent, or the MT1306's are rated too close to their max. Overall, not impressed with the combo, and for the price of 2 x MT1306's the RCTimer combo is a much better value.

Thanks for posting this, the RCTimer kit looks like a good one.

As soon as I source some I will let you know, I actually just had a big fight with their product specialists who told me 4 x 1600kv engines were too weak for a mini quad.. which is funny because I can barely pull 3/4 throttle on the thing it's that fast... flipping idiots. There are some awesome motors that size but they put the housing underneath, ie if I were try and use them in this mini quad I would have to lose the motor pods and go for a flat surface.

Which 3D printer did you use to print this?

This looks great, Brendan!
Which printer are you using?

Great mini Quad !!! Thanks :-)

It's very hard to compare. The Mini T4 is very light and quick ...and perhaps less stable than the bigger quad. Then again the one I've built is using very cheap components and a basic flight controller so not really a fair comparison.

Cool, a mini :P
That means an upgrade of my current mini quad :)

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