MK8/MK7 Nozzle Cleaning Script
by jetty, published
The brass nozzle on your MK8/MK7 stepstruder gets charred ABS on it over time.
Not only is this ugly, but if the deposit is around the nozzle output area, it can affect your printing too.
Clean up your nozzles with this handy script. The script prints a cube with a nozzle shaped indentation in, and then it slowly buries the hot nozzle inside.
Allow the nozzle to cool, then remove with pliers for a shiny clean nozzle.
Credit goes to Crazy Jaw for the original idea in his post: "Possibly brilliant (or terrible) way to clean an extruder nozzle" on the makerbot forum.
Disclaimer: Using this technique puts some force on your bot's mechanics. I've encountered no issues myself with this technique. If it's so stuck on you're risking damaging your bot, then you can preheat your bot to release the bond. Use at your own risk.
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If you have any pieces of kapton loose underneath the heater block, trim these first so they don't get embedded in the plastic.
Print the correct gcode file for your extruder (details below). The gcode files are special and contain code at the end to center the nozzle in the cube and slowly bury it.
Allow nozzle to cool to 70C
Move platform away from nozzle
- If the cube didn't detach from the platform in step 4., use pliers to remove from the nozzle
Machine specific notes:
Replicator (5.5 Firmware): Use CleanMK8Left.gcode / CleanMK8Right.gcode for non accelerated, and CleanMK8AccelLeft.gcode / CleanMK8AccelRight.gcode for accelerated. Left refers to the left extruder and Right to the right extruder. Note, if you have a single extruder, then you should download the "Right".
If you want to clean 2 extruders at once, download the "Left" version and then use a dual printing script or "Firmware Ditto Printing (TBA)".
Thingomatic (Jetty Firmware): Use CleanMK7.gcode. Jetty firmware recommended, for other firmware, machines , non stock configurations you'll need to rebuild the .stl for your own use.
Print 25% fill and 5 shells. Accelerated printing is fine. Then compare your gcode to the gcode attached to this thing at the ends of the files, you need to remove any homing, clearing the print movement at the end of the print, and before the nozzle cools, center the nozzle over the print, and then slowly bury the print into the object. See how it's done in the attached .gcode.