by pleppik, published
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The base pieces have fairly tight tolerances, so if you're having problems fitting them together it may be that your printer is just a little too sloppy. You can try sanding or filing the edges a bit.
As an alternative, this is sized so you can use ordinary pegboard from the hardware store as a base. That may give you better results.
Really beautiful parts. I found the holes were too small to get the pegs into however, and the puzzle edges don't really fit together. maybe a version with larger holes and no puzzle edges? I could maybe simply glue the mini boards together as need.
A good website to look at:
made for creating wooden gears, but you can adjust it to portray a wide variety of gears.
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All parts print without support.
The available parts are:
1. Gears: 1, 2, 3, and 4 inch diameters. Each diameter has a different design, and the gears can stack and lock together vertically.
2. Plates: 2 and 4 inch square plates serve as the base for building. Plates lock together to make larger layouts. You can also use commercial pegboard from the hardware store, but note that pegboard has holes spaced at 1" intervals instead of 1/2", so pegboard won't allow even-sized gears to mesh with odd-sized gears.
3. Pegs: 1, 2, 3, and 4 cm length pegs serve as the axles for the gears. The split end of the peg fits into the base plate, and gears stack onto the solid end
4. Spacers: Spacers are like gears without any teeth, and let you stack gears without meshing with a neighboring gear. The Spacer With Pegs locks onto the gear above so all the gears in a stack turn together; the Spacer No Pegs lets you build a stack of gears which can turn independently.
5. Crank: The crank fits on top of a gear (3" and 4" work best) to give you a handle to turn it with.
UPDATED 9/24: I've added simplified versions of the two plates which should slice and print significantly faster. I left the original versions in place in case you like the aesthetics of the exposed ribs.
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