Hey! This thing is still a Work in Progress. Files, instructions, and other stuff might change!

LulzBot TK-0 3D Printer

617
Downloads
18802
Views
Published on September 29, 2012

Description

The TK-0 is LulzBot's new printer that is currently under development. You can find photos, source and print files, BOM, and more information at devel.lulzbot.com/TK-0/ .

-RepRap 3D Printer, under development.
-300mm x 300mm x 225mm build volume.
-250mm/sec printing speed at 100 microns!.
-Authentic Open Hardware and Free Software, not baitware. In general, design files are under the GPLv3, documentation under CC-BY-SA.
-Code has already been released. Note it is a bit disorganized, but we prefer to release it as is instead of sitting on it. See various directories above. "Release Early and Often!"
-All descriptions and files are subject to change. Probably every single part will be tweaked or wholly changed by final release. --This is an alpha release.
-Designed by Vergent Products. Vergent, as far as we can tell, has built more RepRaps than any other organization (except us, in house, at Aleph Objects, Inc!). They have deep experience in building all sorts of hardware and PCBs. The TK-0 is the result of a decade+ running factories and an obsession with RepRap.
-Vergent's Design for Excellence doc is highly educational.
-Low part count, very low SKU count.
-Only uses 3 different sized bolts (!)
-About 20 printed parts. STLs available, as well as original Sketchup files. We are very interested in having these files redrawn in Free Software, so if you are a FreeCAD or OpenSCAD guru, please contact shop@lulzbot.com.
-RAMBo electronics.
-Panucatt Heatbed. 300mm version under design.
-Folds up into a small box, for easier and less expensive shipping.
-Approximately 11kg including power supply.
-Size of unit: 585mm x 525mm x 525mm.
-Size of unit when folded: 585mm x 525mm x 190mm.
-Enclosed UL certified power supply (will be 24V).
-Budaschnozzle 1.2.
-Wade's Reloaded extruder.
-All extrusion lengths the same--very easily scalable up or down.
-All rod lengths the same.
-All belt lengths the same.
-Colored LEDs to indicate heat and cooling.
-Designed for fast assembly. Can be fully assembled and calibrated in 2.5 hours. Design considerations include "assembly ergonomics" to make sure it is easy on the assembler to build!
-May use borosilicate glass bed (expensive), unless alternative is found. Possibly ceramic plate.
-May include thermal fuse for hot end and heatbed safety.
-All parts should be easily available, with alternate vendors for each SKU.
-80/20 and/or Misumi 20mm T-slot.
Fan to cool heatbed when the print is finished.
-Vertical X.
-Extremely robust. This machine has undergone torture tests running for days on end. You can download the torture test gcode, Zipper.gcode.
-Does not skip steps. Major design consideration.
-Hot end cover/shield with integrated fans. Part not done yet.
-LM8EUU bearings.
-Marlin firmware.
-Pronterface printer control.
-Comes with 0.50mm, 0.35mm, 0.25mm nozzles.
-Designed to have easily replaceable toolheads, such as laser, adhesive applications, light CNC, pick & place, solder paste, glue, selective solder.
-At present swapping out the X carriage only requires removing 4 bolts. It may be designed with quick release.
-Will likely include mechanism for changing out print surface.
-Z/X ends are being redesigned to entirely eliminate wobble. This is under active development. Files pushed when available.
-Can print ABS and PLA. We have an experimental option for printing Polycarbonate ("bullet proof glass"): the Polyschnozzle. See this youtube video.
-Will be 100% RoHS compliant.
-Designed for safety.
-Dual extruder capable. See photos here (http://www.alephobjects.com/photos/extruders/dual/whuf/) and here (http://www.alephobjects.com/photos/plastic/random_objects/2012Q3/dual_whuf/) for examples of running dual extruders on our A0-100. We also sponsor dual support in Slic3r.
-The TK-0 name comes from "Tee kay ooooh!". AKA, technical knock out. :)
-Will work out-of-the-box when shipped to end users. No calibration or monkeying around. --Just like the AO-100. :)
-Will come with a very nice manual, like the AO-100 manual.
-This archive is available via rsync at rsync://rsync.lulzbot.com/devel/lulzbot/TK-0/ Currently 460 megs.
-If you have any questions feel free to contact us at shop@lulzbot.com.
-Oh, and buy stuff at our webstore and we will flourish and continue to release great designs to the public under truly free licenses with no catches whatsoever. We will succeed or go broke, but we will not go proprietary!

Instructions

No instructions provided.
Report as inappropriate

You must be logged in to post a comment.

Has anyone priced out the BOM to see what an individual can realistically get all of the parts for, including shipping fees?

The TK-0 has been released as the LulzBot TAZ. Info here:

http://www.lulzbot.com/?q=prod...

Source here:

http://download.lulzbot.com/TA...

You had to "tune" the Marlin software to get the 250 mm/sec speed? Are those tunings available? Will they be available? Did you get 250 mm/sec from an SD card or over USB?

Where can I find a copy of the latest parts BOM mentioned in the Changelog? I am sure it is right in front of my face, but I don't see it. I'd like to start ordering parts and am going to make this my 3D printer at work. It has a more professional look than my Prusa Version1.5.

I started printing various parts of the build.

Stanted with the extruder parts.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/...

I will have to look to get all the hardware needed... ;)

Very nice design.. i like it

Have you looked into using OpenBeam extrusions?

They use standard 3mm nuts instead of special retainer nuts.

The extrusion sizes appear to be currently limited to 15mm x 15mm, but it may be worth looking into.

I would imagine that the TK0 design could be re-worked with 15mm instead of 20mm...

http://www.openbeamusa.com/

http://www.kickstarter.com/pro...

It could be reworked to use that, I presume, and you are more than welcome to do so. But one consideration in the design is easily sourced parts and a reliable supply chain. Waiting for kickstarters doesn't really cut it. That said, I wish the project the best of luck and I hope they become major producers. :)

http://devel.lulzbot.com/TK-0/...

Penn Engineering also makes these PEMS. Ask for "Bulletin SI" The M3x0.5 on page SI-4 is the same PEM shown in the video.

These should be available worldwide from any Penn Engineering distributor.

The Representative in Germany is:

KVT-Koenig GmbH
Max-Eyth Strasse 14
89186 Illerrieden, Germany
phone:+49(0)7306 782-0
fax:+49(0)7306 2251
Peter Lürkens

Here: http://www.pemnet.com/fastenin... The equivalent part is probably model number IUBB-M3-1, which has a length of 3.81mm, and a material hole size of 5.05mm.

Does anyone have a rough idea where to get this thermal brass inserts internationally? I ordered with McMaster but they don't ship to germany and it looks like those stuff is hard to find elsewhere.

Having a manufacturers name of these special or other fitting inserts would be great. I think those inserts technology is great but we need to have them globally available or it would be a nogo for this printer.

We have the bill of materials here:
http://devel.lulzbot.com/TK-0/...

For the MPN (manufacturer's part number) that field is currently blank for the "Heatset Insert M3-5. 3.8mm length (Pack of 100)", so we don't have that information at present. We actively pursue obtaining that information for every part. When we have it, the spreadsheet will be updated. I presume these will be available in the EU somewhere.

Here is a photo of the bag they came in, but it doesn't provide any hints to the manufacturer:

http://devel.lulzbot.com/TK-0/...

When we have the info, it will be public and in our BOM.

Thanks,

-Jeff

Karandex, we have the calibration test files we use here:

http://download.lulzbot.com/AO...

The burnin.gco runs first, then the 100mm cross to make sure it is accurate. Then it prints an octopus, which ships with the printer.

For development, we use these files to abuse the machines to see if they will be robust enough. Note: this runs at 800mm/sec for a 300mm x 300mm bed, so be careful running it directly:
http://devel.lulzbot.com/TK-0/...

More test files are in that directory as well.

What firmware are you running to get 800mm/s?

Thanks for reply. but these things are used to test the machine. not calibrate. i was asking how do you determine best temps. accelerations, jerk. do you use any other settings other than estep to calibrate machine like extrusion multiplier and if you do then how.

Can you share with us what procesdure you go through to calibrate your machines like AO-100 ?

The following videos show the LulzBot TK-0 3d printer building it's first object -  a 201.84mm tall column with nubs on the outside and a v shape structure on the inside.  

 The column was designed to shake, rattle and shimmy the robot to make it crash.   It was intended to be something that could not be printed because of the height, complex direction changes, number of layers, vibration, etc.  

The entire column is printed at 200mm/sec perimeter and 250mm/sec fill at .12mm layers.  The Marlin firmware was tuned to permit the print envelope and higher speeds.  Slic3r (slic3r-mswin-x64-0-9-2) was used to slice the STL model with 2 perimeters  80% fill, and rectilinear fill pattern.It prints like crazy and doesn't crash - TK printed 1682 .12mm layers.

The 100mm mark measured 99.95mm and the 150mm mark was 150.01mm.  Bear in mind this video is an uncalibrated and untuned robot making it's very first print.  I should also point out that I bent the right hand Z lead screw on purpose to measure lead screw error transmission into printed object.

Test start - http://youtu.be/zZLMHlbfm_s

Test end -  http://youtu.be/L66ICJAWx1Q

would be nice if you could hold the iphone in landscape next time so we would see much more of everything :)

The LulzBot TK-0 3D printer uses thermal set PEMs for 3mm nuts. 

This hardware may be new to the RepRap community so I created a youtube video tutorial.  (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v... for those who may be new to thermal set PEMs.I have been asked why all the trouble when you can just use a nut.  First, when you build a lot of RepRaps every day there is a lot of extra time lost fumbling around with tiny nuts.  Second, because printed parts are not perfect the loose hardware can either spin (if feature is too large), or crack (if feature is too small).  Third, they are very strong and assemble much faster.

The tools to set the PEMS is a soldering iron and a tip.  They are very inexpensive from McMaster Carr or you can make your own tip if you already have a soldering iron.  The McMaster Carr stock codes are:  Soldering Iron: 662A696  and 3mm tip: 92160A119.

I for one welcome (y)our future megagnurporation.

Remixes

Liked by

License

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag.