Rostock plywood SCAD dxf for laser cutting

by RustyPaint, published

Rostock plywood SCAD dxf for laser cutting by RustyPaint Oct 2, 2012


I took Nudel_P scad file and modified it for use with laser cutting acrylic with holes for a mk1 pcb heatbed, printrboard, and l-brackets for the corner support. A notch was made in the corner for running wires from the top switches down to the base.

Images shown still have the protective paper on them.

l-brackets are from here:

Marking this work in progress until it is fully built.

UPDATE 10-20-2012:
It is up and running (no longer in progress). Ended up using particle board for the side pieces for extra stability from added weight. The acrylic was too flimsy.

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350mm/s with 20 tooth pulleys, this is close to my upper limit before I start getting skipping. Another thing to check is you current limiters on your stepper controllers (the trim pots). There is a bit of a black art to getting them adjusted correctly. Too much and things get to hot and you get skipping, too little and your torque goes down and you get skipping. If you are getting skipping where the head does not line up with the next layer, that can be your issue. Also, stutter can be from your serial link. Try loading the gcode on a sd card and run the printer from there. If you look at the gcodes for Marlin, there are instructions on how to do that.

thanks for getting back to me. I'm running at 45mm/s with 150mm/s travel. I'm using 40 tooth pulleys, what speeds are you running?

I'm running the default. If your travel speed is too fast it can cause jerky movements as well especially if you are running 20 teeth pulleys since the Atmel cannot feed the pulse to the stepper controller fast enough with fine stepping.

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Send one of each (top and base) to a laser cutter (using mm for units) and assemble.

scad is documented if you need to adjust for different electronics ect.
Same scad file is used to create the top and base. A switch is used at the top of the file to indicate type.


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robo_kid22 on Jul 12, 2013 said:

what distance are the top and bottom spaced apart by?

RustyPaint on Jul 13, 2013 said:

This is dependant on the length of your belts you get. Rostock technically has no height limit. Mine is about 2.5 ft with 850 teeth GT2 belts since the 792 were not available at the time of order.

robo_kid22 on Jul 2, 2013 said:

How is the strength of the acrylic vs wood/MDF ? I started making mine out of MDF (1/2 in) using a laser to etch your stencil onto the MDF. It doesn't seem that its going to be very accurate so I am considering using some acrylic I have collected over the last few months for my base and top. I need to know if the acrylic is going to be sturdy enough before I use my stock.

RustyPaint on Jul 5, 2013 said:

As long as the base you put it on is nice and level. It will get its strength from the surface that it is sitting on due to the weight. Care has to be taken when mounting the side pieces since that will in part determine how level it will be. I ended up shimming the feet of the rostock with cardstock until the linear sides were level using a bubble level. My parts are much more true after leveling.

robo_kid22 on Jun 16, 2013 said:

How come the print bed is not centered between all three axis?

RustyPaint on Jun 17, 2013 said:

If you draw a parallel line to the axis at the center of each axis, the intersection point will be at the center of the heat bead.
Take a look at: http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

kraczekj on Feb 7, 2013 said:

How Thick is the Acrylic that you are using?

RustyPaint on Jun 17, 2013 said:

Mine measures out to be about 5.35mm. It was what the laser cutter service provided. It does flex slightly so you must let the rostock sit on a solid flat surface. I ended up shimming up the corners to where the vertical rods are level with a bubble level. This seems to produce good results.

Hendrik on Nov 4, 2012 said:

Hi Rusty,

Thanks for the great job. I take it this setup allows for a 20mm*20mm / 8"x8" build area.

I am looking for a way out for those of us without access to a laser cutter. Is there any way to convert the base and top dxf files to "life-size" (multipage A4) pdf files? With those pdf's we would be able to use the (taped together) A4's as a 'glue-on' template for cutting and drilling.

Thanks in advance for thinking this over,


RustyPaint on Nov 4, 2012 said:

This is the "standard" Rostock layout.  IE, this gives you an approximate 9 inch circle of printable area.  Basically you can print every where on the print bed except the corners.

As far as printing them out, I used a DXF to PDF converter and used the "poster print" option of the PDF view and taped the 4 pages together to test the layout before I had it sent to a laser cutter.

The program I used was Acme DWG Converter.  Use Batch Convert -> Batch transform by scale.