Loading

Rostock Modded Parts - Carriage, Platform (for Ball Links); Belt Spreader; Corner Support

by piit79, published

Rostock Modded Parts - Carriage, Platform (for Ball Links); Belt Spreader; Corner Support by piit79 Oct 2, 2012

Description

Various modded files for the Rostock Delta 3D Printer:
-- Carriage with screw LM8UU mount and platform to be used with ball link rods
-- Original carriage but for use with ball link rods
-- Top endstop bracket (so that idler bracket can be put above for belt tightening)
-- Bottom belt spreader
-- Bottom corner support (for better case stability)

Recent Comments

view all

If you mean the actual carriages (the parts that mount onto the LM8UU
linear bearings) then the difference is in the LM8UU mounting. One of
them uses the traditional cable ties, the other one uses squeeze screw
mounting. I would recommend the latter as they are a bit easier to use.

Great work on the mods Thanks.
Would you be able to tell me why there are 2 versions of the carriage holder is it an either or. Thanks

That would be certainly possible... And it might be the better way to do it. My thinking probably was that the wider the spacing between the rods the less tilt of the base will be caused by any possible slop/tolerances/flex in the rods/joints.

More from 3D Printer Parts

view more

Instructions

I used Traxxas 5347 ball links. They have just enough movement to cover the whole printing area. They are sold in packs of 12 (what are the odds :), are readily available in model shops here in the UK and reasonably priced too (~£7.50)

More photos from my Rostock build: plus.google.com/photos/102205917688348138845/albums/5794445797670248865

To use the SCAD files you need:
* configuration.scad from github.com/jcrocholl/rostock
* lm8uu-holder-slim_v1-1.scad from thingiverse.com/thing:16158

Comments

You must be logged in to post a comment.

Bigfella on Apr 18, 2014 said:

Great work on the mods Thanks.
Would you be able to tell me why there are 2 versions of the carriage holder is it an either or. Thanks

piit79 on Apr 18, 2014 said:

If you mean the actual carriages (the parts that mount onto the LM8UU
linear bearings) then the difference is in the LM8UU mounting. One of
them uses the traditional cable ties, the other one uses squeeze screw
mounting. I would recommend the latter as they are a bit easier to use.

HarshReality on Aug 1, 2013 said:

Im curious why the joints are all mounted outside.. the carriages could be flipped around nd a bit of tweaking they could be inward on the effector. Just.. looks like if I reached in to grab a string or the like its something to get hung on.

piit79 on Aug 2, 2013 said:

That would be certainly possible... And it might be the better way to do it. My thinking probably was that the wider the spacing between the rods the less tilt of the base will be caused by any possible slop/tolerances/flex in the rods/joints.

robo_kid22 on Jul 28, 2013 said:

Thanks for all your help finally got my machine together and moving!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v...

Do you know of a good guide for making the slic3r config and tweaking Marlin for Rostocks?

robo_kid22 on Jun 15, 2013 said:

As far as gluing the screws to the carbon fiber tube for the rod ends how did you go about doing that so that they were in the correct orientation ?

piit79 on Jun 15, 2013 said:

Well, it was quite straightforward - I glued the screw in using hot-melt glue and then screwed the plastic body of the ball joint onto it. If it was out of position when screwed all the way in I just pushed a bit harder to get it into position :)
The M4 screws are quite tight in the ball joint body so I first screwed a full screw in and out using an electric screwdriver.

robo_kid22 on Jun 3, 2013 said:

What kind of screws are used to attach the traxxas joints to the platform? M4 like the original?

piit79 on Jun 3, 2013 said:

They are M3 screws. The Traxxas balls have a hole that is slightly larger than M3.

stratmaster458 on May 4, 2013 said:

What color plastic did you print the platform out of ? I'm working on my first RepRap a Rostock with your mods and I will eventually need plastic when its ready to print. I want that color.

piit79 on May 8, 2013 said:

Hi, it's a nice colour, isn't it? Faberdashery call it "electric blue".

HarshReality on Apr 30, 2013 said:

Cant find this 'Kite Store' on ebay you mentioned anywhere. Can you throw a link?

piit79 on May 8, 2013 said:

Hi, I can't find it any more either... You best just search for 6mm OD / 4mm ID carbon tubes. Supply changes pretty quickly.

nic6911 on Nov 30, 2012 said:

Do you have a picture of the rods with the tension springs installed?
And where did you buy the bearing shafts? in the UK? or china?

Nice machine though!

foreverknight on Nov 21, 2012 said:

is the 250 mm length on the rods the overall length or from the centers of the joints?

chowderhead on Nov 18, 2012 said:

Got the mod installed and working great! Thanks for the good work. I did have to tweak some of the settings in firmware (using Repetier).

Any idea how long these joints stay tight? Anybody know if there's need of lube and if so, what type?

piit79 on Nov 19, 2012 said:

Thank you! However, my input was rather limited, I just modded great work of other people :)

As per recommendation I have installed springs across the pairs of rods at both ends (near the platform and near the carriage). This is said to eliminate any play in the ball joints. I hear this solution is used in industrial delta bots too.

Not sure about lubrication. A dab of oil can't hurt I guess :)

artiface on Nov 6, 2012 said:

Love your mods!

Can you tell us what carbon fiber rods you are using? Length, end threading, where to purchase?  

piit79 on Nov 6, 2012 said:

Thanks! I bought 6mm OD/4mm ID carbon fibre tubes from an eBay kite shop. The length depends on the size of your Rostock printer; I think the original Rostock uses 250mm rods.
I used M4 screws to attach the ball ends to the tubes. I first cut the heads off the screws and then used hot melt glue to glue the screws into the tubes with about 5mm of thread sticking out. The screws were a bit loose in the tubes so quite a bit of glue was needed. 5 minute epoxy would work better.

jeffersonbenson on Nov 6, 2012 said:

I'm starting to design my own Rostock using some of these parts, but do you really need the belt spreader? Looks like you'd be just fine if you kept your belts tight enough.

piit79 on Nov 6, 2012 said:

 Sure, you don't NEED the belt spreader. The error introduced by non-parallel belt path would probably be negligible. And as another member pointed out the belt spreader doesn't really need the clamp mount (as I use a vertical screw anyway).
I just wanted to make the belt path nice and straight :)

nargos on Oct 30, 2012 said:

Thanks for doing these mods. Would ist be possibble to Mod the carriages for use with Igus Drillinge bushings, outer diameter is 16 mm. Would be very helpfull for me.

many thanks
nargos

piit79 on Nov 19, 2012 said:

Hi nargos, sorry, missed your reply! Do you still need the mod for 16mm bushings?

Eaglezsoar on Oct 12, 2012 said:

Can you tell us how to install the hollow ball into the Traxxas
end joint?

piit79 on Oct 12, 2012 said:

Hi, I couldn't be bothered to make a simple tool so I just used a spare ball end, aligned the hole with the one I want to insert the ball into and then press the ball in with wide pliers (not sure what they are called :)

SystemsGuy on Oct 3, 2012 said:

Printing as I type this - unfortunately on a Prusa! :-)  Still designing my Rostock around MakerSlide - decent progress but real life keeps interrupting.

 

afpiper on Oct 3, 2012 said:

Great idea, I've been trying to figure out how to simplify this part of the setup for a while now. How well does this work to eliminate tension/slop? I notice a little bit of it on my current Rostock so it's kept me from doing any serious printing yet.

piit79 on Oct 12, 2012 said:

Hi, after assembling the rods/platform linkage there no tension (the ball links move very smoothly), just a tiny bit of play/slop in it - looks like 2 or 3 ball links are a not perfectly tight. I was pointed at what is apparently a solution applied in industrial delta robots - put tension springs between each pair of rods at each end. This will apparently eliminate any slop.

flink on Oct 3, 2012 said:

I like the CF tubes. They look good with the Traxxas ends.

Robovergne on Oct 3, 2012 said:

Hi, 
Nice design. I was also looking for replacing the printed joint by ball joint. I was afraid that the limited angle allowed by this joints could be slightly limiting the build area. What is your experience with this ? 

Do you have some recommandation for chosing the best joints.

piit79 on Oct 3, 2012 said:

 Hi, thanks. But really, all credit goes to Johann for creating the original design.
The ball joints I used - Traxxas 5347 - have just enough movement to cover the whole printing area when used with a standoff nut as shown in the pictures. They are sold in packs of 12 and are a decent price too (~£7.50 here in the UK).

Johann on Oct 3, 2012 said:

Thank you for sharing these files. I really like the simplified end effector (moving platform).

sgraber on Oct 2, 2012 said:

Awesome!

Top