Rostock Modded Parts - Carriage, Platform (for Ball Links); Belt Spreader; Corner Support
Description
-- Carriage with screw LM8UU mount and platform to be used with ball link rods
-- Original carriage but for use with ball link rods
-- Top endstop bracket (so that idler bracket can be put above for belt tightening)
-- Bottom belt spreader
-- Bottom corner support (for better case stability)
Instructions
More photos from my Rostock build: plus.google.com/photos/102205917688348138845/albums/5794445797670248865
To use the SCAD files you need:
* configuration.scad from github.com/jcrocholl/rostock
* lm8uu-holder-slim_v1-1.scad from thingiverse.com/thing:16158
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Cant find this 'Kite Store' on ebay you mentioned anywhere. Can you throw a link?
Do you have a picture of the rods with the tension springs installed?
And where did you buy the bearing shafts? in the UK? or china?
Nice machine though!
is the 250 mm length on the rods the overall length or from the centers of the joints?
Got the mod installed and working great! Thanks for the good work. I did have to tweak some of the settings in firmware (using Repetier).
Any idea how long these joints stay tight? Anybody know if there's need of lube and if so, what type?
Thank you! However, my input was rather limited, I just modded great work of other people :)
As per recommendation I have installed springs across the pairs of rods at both ends (near the platform and near the carriage). This is said to eliminate any play in the ball joints. I hear this solution is used in industrial delta bots too.
Not sure about lubrication. A dab of oil can't hurt I guess :)
Love your mods!
Can you tell us what carbon fiber rods you are using? Length, end threading, where to purchase?
Thanks! I bought 6mm OD/4mm ID carbon fibre tubes from an eBay kite shop. The length depends on the size of your Rostock printer; I think the original Rostock uses 250mm rods.
I used M4 screws to attach the ball ends to the tubes. I first cut the heads off the screws and then used hot melt glue to glue the screws into the tubes with about 5mm of thread sticking out. The screws were a bit loose in the tubes so quite a bit of glue was needed. 5 minute epoxy would work better.
I'm starting to design my own Rostock using some of these parts, but do you really need the belt spreader? Looks like you'd be just fine if you kept your belts tight enough.
Sure, you don't NEED the belt spreader. The error introduced by non-parallel belt path would probably be negligible. And as another member pointed out the belt spreader doesn't really need the clamp mount (as I use a vertical screw anyway).
I just wanted to make the belt path nice and straight :)
Thanks for doing these mods. Would ist be possibble to Mod the carriages for use with Igus Drillinge bushings, outer diameter is 16 mm. Would be very helpfull for me.
many thanks
nargos
Can you tell us how to install the hollow ball into the Traxxas
end joint?
Printing as I type this - unfortunately on a Prusa! :-) Still designing my Rostock around MakerSlide - decent progress but real life keeps interrupting.
Great idea, I've been trying to figure out how to simplify this part of the setup for a while now. How well does this work to eliminate tension/slop? I notice a little bit of it on my current Rostock so it's kept me from doing any serious printing yet.
Hi, after assembling the rods/platform linkage there no tension (the ball links move very smoothly), just a tiny bit of play/slop in it - looks like 2 or 3 ball links are a not perfectly tight. I was pointed at what is apparently a solution applied in industrial delta robots - put tension springs between each pair of rods at each end. This will apparently eliminate any slop.
Hi,
Nice design. I was also looking for replacing the printed joint by ball joint. I was afraid that the limited angle allowed by this joints could be slightly limiting the build area. What is your experience with this ?
Do you have some recommandation for chosing the best joints.
Hi, thanks. But really, all credit goes to Johann for creating the original design.
The ball joints I used - Traxxas 5347 - have just enough movement to cover the whole printing area when used with a standoff nut as shown in the pictures. They are sold in packs of 12 and are a decent price too (~£7.50 here in the UK).
Thank you for sharing these files. I really like the simplified end effector (moving platform).
License
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What color plastic did you print the platform out of ? I'm working on my first RepRap a Rostock with your mods and I will eventually need plastic when its ready to print. I want that color.
Hi, it's a nice colour, isn't it? Faberdashery call it "electric blue".