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Iris Door Box v1

by countspatula, published

Iris Door Box v1 by countspatula Oct 6, 2012

Description

I'd recommend printing my newest version over this one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:140048

I got a ton of requests for this at Maker Faire NYC, so here you go.

I really liked emmetts iris box but was having trouble putting it together and the pins kept breaking. Using his as an inspiration, I built this from scratch to use flat head screws. This version will work very well after some tweaking.

I have included a small and large version. There is also a shorter version of the small base to make it as compact as possible. One disadvantage of this design is that it can't be scaled up or down unless you figure out what size screw will ride in the track properly.

Recent Comments

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Hi John- Glad you like the iris box. I'm not doing any further work on this version. I would recommend printing my newest version which prints nicer, has more room inside, easier to assemble and does hide how it's assembled: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:140048

Clarification from CJR - design a bottom ring but with pegs to secure to the base holes thank you - John

Great design, printing now - 2 made so far, any chance of you designing a base (similar to the ring) but with pegs to align with the base. It would hide the way the design is constructed. Thanks kind regards John UK

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Instructions

I have been using 5% fill and 1 shell with good results.

You will need #4 x 1/2 flat head metal screws for small version and #6 for the large version. They must be flat heads or it probably won't work.

After printing, layout the iris blades and put a small piece of tape on the top to hold them all together.

Put the iris leaves on the pins and lay the gear ring on top.

Put screws in through the bottom and get them started. Screw them all in until they just stop.

REMOVE THE TAPE! I constantly forget and can't figure out why the iris won't work.

Now adjust all the screws in/out until the iris moves smoothly. This can be a bit of a pain. I find that after screwing in all the way, backing them off 1/4 - 1/2 turn is a good start. Usually 'all the way' is further than you think. There shouldn't be much play between the ring and iris leaves.

Depending on the quality of your print you may have to clean up the edges of the blades so they close properly.

Clarification from CJR - design a bottom ring but with pegs to secure to the base holes thank you - John

Hi John- Glad you like the iris box. I'm not doing any further work on this version. I would recommend printing my newest version which prints nicer, has more room inside, easier to assemble and does hide how it's assembled: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:140048

Iris Door Box v3

Great design, printing now - 2 made so far, any chance of you designing a base (similar to the ring) but with pegs to align with the base. It would hide the way the design is constructed. Thanks kind regards John UK

Like it, too. Especial the "Pfennig" from Germany. - Lange nicht mehr gesehen. :)

Ha yeah, everyone thinks I'm German. Don't know why those were around on my desk at the time...

I just printed one of these and am...baffled. How does the ring attach?

The screws go through the holes, not into the channels. The channels on the underside go on the pins of the base. So tape the leaves together, place them on the base pins and then the screw go up through the holes. Hope that helps.

I see now, thank you very much!

I was puzzled because the pins fit the screw-holes exactly, so well that I was convinced it was not coincidence! ;)

This is the first assembly I printed on my Solidoodle 3. Be sure to adjust your Y axis belts before printing or you will be slightly out of round. If the box doesn't operate smoothly or doesn't close/open fully, then you're printer is not printing a perfect circle.

Thanks for posting this, I was one of the ones asking about it at Maker Faire NYC.  It worked right off the print bed, nice and clean.

Thanks

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