ROFI bipedal robot
Description
A full overview (with source Blender files) can be found at the Project Biped ROFI website:
projectbiped.com/prototypes/rofi
walking info:
projectbiped.com/prototypes/rofi/walking-analysis
video of the robot:
projectbiped.com/prototypes/rofi/video
Instructions
projectbiped.com/prototypes/rofi/instructions
printed part diagrams:
projectbiped.com/prototypes/rofi/printed-parts
non-printed parts list (vender and cost):
docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Ai_h1KTMNaWNdHktUVZlT3RZaGdzZm1tSXFrSm QzTmc#gid=0
UPDATE 11-05-2012
Thanks to the CSULB EE class (building the first ROFI clone) for pointing out that some of the parts designed to work with the new MG966R horn style were too thick. Affected parts are:
- Center Bracket
- Foot
- Body Riser
- Servo Bracket Left
- Servo Bracket Right
The new parts have been fixed and the zip and STL files have been updated.
UPDATE 11-28-2012
A few parts weren't slicable with Slic3r because they had problems with their meshes. Interestingly they all sliced fine with ReplicatorG, so I didn't catch the problems with the parts when I printed them. Thanks to 3daybreaker and Architect for pointing this out! Affected parts are :
- body strut.stl
- center bracket NH v2.stl
- heel left.stl
- heel right.stl
- servo bracket left NH v4.stl
- servo bracket right NH v4.stl
- servo wrap lower left.stl
- servo wrap lower right.stl
- side knee bracket.stl
The new parts have been posted along with a new zip file for the entire set of ROFI parts.
UPDATE 11-30-2012
Thanks to wildseyed for pointing out that the foot was missing part of the bracing on the rear riser! This was causing the feet to be much weaker than they should be. The bracing has been added back in and the file "foot NH v3" has been posted. Also the zip file has been updated.
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ROFI LIPO's
I could not locate the prescrybed SKY lipo's, but after some intense googling I found these for replacement at Honny King (NL Warehouse)
T1300.2S.20/35821 Turnigy 1300mAh 2S 20C Lipo Pack
You can see the ftting on my blog www.3daybreaker.blogspot.com
or here: http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6Cwz...
Thomas
To all ROFI builders:
The horns that Architect has developed fit perfect into the ROFI parts, but mine will not slide over the servo. I have reworked them with a hot 5mm hex-wrench after which I pressed them onto the servo to have it cool down together. After that the fitting is good: Heat the hex, push the horn onto it, rotate it 2x 360 degrees and push it onto the servo.
Pictures on my blog www.3daybreaker.blogspot.com
or: http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qi5G...
and: http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nScD...
and: http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2a0c...
Thomas
ROFI IS great.
ROFI is tough to build until he (or Her?) really "static" walks. Really tough..
You get so addicted, that you are willing to spend lots of money (Euros in my cas) and time.
The hardes things are printing the parts with a (wooden !!!) Replicator and cabling all those parts and wires.
I use ABS on my (wooden..) dual replicator, lots of capton tape and many days of trial and error. Then I reworked all Parts with acethone to get as much strength out of it. I filled the bores which act as nuts with dissolved ABS to get screws to hold.
To "train" ROFI, build some Stand as you can see in my 1st picture to give full freedom of movement.
Headaches (some more) are caused by too much play in construction and especially gear-play inside the servos. Watch out: even a well (poser-) trained ROFI will do funny things when falling over his legs...
Thanks Jonathan for that mountain of (fun!-) work
Peter,
Thanks for all of your great feedback, and also let me apologize for your time and money ;-) Be warned that building robots is contagious ... once you make the first one it is hard to stop. In the future I'll be careful to record all of my printer settings because it sounds like you've been working too hard to get your plastic parts strong enough (my ROFI has face planted so many times during development that if he wasn't rock solid he'd be in pieces by now). I'll be releasing an update to the Robot Poser application soon with your suggestions incorporated. I'm also trying to get Google to undepricate gifs in their new version of presentations so I can finish the calibration presentation.
HA! just received mine. they say "TowardPro" on the same looking sticker as the towerpro. Haven't tested yet. :-/ i'm sure I can use them somewhere if they don't workout.
Hello Jdow,
Sorry no photos yet. I had my to take my ROFI apart to replace the counterfeit Towerpro servos which also explains why the horn/arms were a different sizes. New/real ones might not make it this year. Value Hobby is stocking the MG996R state side for $11.99. Watch out for Ebay. Hard to believe the Chinese are now coping/counterfeiting their own cheap products.
The BOM could reflect 12 bearings instead of 10. I'm also using some 20 mm long bolts on the knee frame which is giving me 3-4 mm of threads engagement.
Thanks for the updated instructions
Notes to others about the real Towerpro servos. My fake servo were glossy not matte/flat black, did not have the "do not throw in trash" symbol on the bottom, The CE symbol was at the cord end, bottoms screw were black. The real Towerpro servo are very responsive and smooth when turning by hand. Huge difference in performance.
Bummer ... I've added a warning in the BOM about the fake servos (I'll update it if you give me any additional info about the seller). I also modified the number of bearings in the BOM, thanks for posting!
Hmm, that's a bummer. I am expecting my servos from china this week. can you explain a little more what the problem was with yours?
Jdow,
Me too, I now have finished printing all parts.
Peliminary fitting parts on my old servo"s is going well.
(progress and parts on www.3daybreaker.blogspot.com)
As referenced, I also added some support on the foot inside the front riser.
I see your point around slippingbhorns and printer resolution. This might be an issue,mhowever, if that does notnwork I might be forced to design a converter between my horns and your spaces for them.
One more issue: if I include your .stl in Openscad and add some stuff to it, new heels will generate new .stl. Old heels did not. Current feed do not either. Do you have some parameters that orevent openscad to regenerate on your parts?
Thomas
Nice blog posts! With my R2 printer I've started printing in PLA and I've suspected that my white PLA is stronger than my clear and orange PLA although I've never quantified that. One trick that some people have done with FOBO when they had the wrong horns is they just super glued the horns into place. It isn't the ideal solution, but it gets the job done and you can still change out the servo if one burns out. I'm not sure I understand your last question about Openscad.
Love it Jdow,
Everything is on order today. Had to juggle a few things around due to some items out of stock. Thanks you for the detailed BOM (saved me hours) and instructions. Will post photos from the Christmas build with the kidsDo you mind adding what your replicator settings were at. My TOM been dormant for a few months and needs tweaked Not sure upgrading to rev40 was a good idea. Never the less your input could save me a few more hours trying to get a clean print again.Many thanks
The TOM settings that I used to print ROFI :
Layer height 270 microns
ABS
exterior walls 3
(think this was with Skienforge 37)
Favorite R2 settings so far :
PLA
use the finest quality setting from makerware 1.02
Layer height 200 microns
infill 25%
exterior walls 5
I tried 1.03 because it is supposed to fix some issues, but the prints came out a lot worse for me.
It seems the foot also lacks support at front side for strength. I broke one foot already at that point. Inadded somemsupport myself, just as you did at the backside.
One thing puzzles me though: my servo control horns are way smaller than the spaces in the brackets. Did you specify bigger horns? I have Hitec HS 300 servos from flying.
Maybe have a printable horn that fits?
O.K. I'm taking the plunge. If anyone is bored, they can watch the printing at http://wildseyed.com:9090/
@jdow: The feet need some work, to make them stronger
The feet turned out plenty strong on my TOM ... but maybe your ROFI is going to do some serious stomping? Definitely send me/ post your mods! If you're going to make the feet bigger/stronger I'd avoid going too far inward so that the feed won't rub when it walks. This might mean that you'll have to make too separate models (mirrored) for the feet. I'll check out the video feed later if it is still up!
Sweet! Just in time for me getting in some more servo's .
Every Time I review this project, I just can't get out of my head the days of playing Mech Warrior 4... I soooo want a minuature Mech to do battle with!! lol, baby steps here, baby steps.
Great, thanks for the rework.
I wiil give the new parts a go this weekend.
Congrats for being featured too :-)
Thomas
Can't reply below anymore.
Slic3r v97 does slice the bracket indeed.
I am gonna try and print them today.
However, the heels still are not manifold.
rgrds Thomas
I printed 2 feet,
I was surprised by the bridging demand, which turned out not to be very nice in my Orca. (Never bridget that much before),
o for conveiniace, I added 3 support shields to the 2nd foot, which turned out to be better after that.
(Images on my latest blog: http://3daybreaker.blogspot.nl... )
Nice idea with the support! I was actually very surprised that my TOM handled the cavity in the feet so well ... didn't have any sagging issues except for the first layer of the roof ( which I just cleaned up with a razor). Maybe printing at a lower temperature would also help?
The Servo Bracket files give 'not manifold' warnings before and 'no layer detected' warnings after slicing (Slic3r)
Any Clue ?
Thomas
Hi Jonathan,
great thing you have established over time.
I am starting this ROFI project, however I only print PLA.
Would that be a problem ? weight-wise for balance I mean ?
Thomas
Thomas,
I would think that PLA should be fine. Have you had any particular issues with PLA in the past? I recently got an R2, so I'm going to be using a lot more PLA in the future ;-) If there are any issues, the walking cycles can always be reworked using the Robot Poser application (to be released within a couple of weeks).
Apologies to anyone who already finished printing ROFI, I just updated a few of the parts that are designed for the newer MG966R horn style (see UPDATE 11-05-2012). The original ROFI has the old horn style, so I didn't notice the issue until the CSLUB EE class building the robot pointed it out. Thanks guys!
I love the way it walks - looks like Jackie Chan in Drunken Master :D
Haha ... I'd have to agree! Sadly I just replaced the static walking cycle (a.k.a. drunken master style) with a dynamic walking cycle that looks much more natural. Check out the new video and let me know what you think. I still have a link to the old video at the bottom of the video ( I renamed it "drunken master" in your honor).
Very cool. Is it possible to use any other Android devices? It would be nice to recycle an older Android phone.
Other Android devices should interface properly with the robot. Some redesign would be necessary for the body enclosure and the walking cycle would need to be reworked to accommodate a heavier phone. The main motivations for using the Archos28 (the Android tablet in the design) are that it is really light, small, and inexpensive.
License

Hi, do you sell the package of printed parts?