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Sailfish Firmware

by jetty, published

Sailfish Firmware by jetty Oct 13, 2012

Description

Request: If you use this firmware, please take the time to click on "I Made One" with a picture of your bot.
This firmware took approx 10 months to write / test.
Because this isn't something printable, the best appreciation you can show for this work is to encourage others to use it by keeping it on the Thingiverse front page. Thanks to those who have done this already.

"A Sailfish is faster than a Marlin".
Sailfish is the next generation of the Jetty Firmware. It's faster and has better print quality.
Supports: Replicator 1, ThingOMatic and Cupcake (TBA)
Firmware Manual: makerbot.com/sailfish
This firmware contains many new features, some of which are: better acceleration, ditto printing, Pause@ZPos, SF50 Volumetric 5D printing.
Requirements: makerbot.com/sailfish/#toc2
Support:
Help with using this firmware can be found over at the Jetty Firmware Forum:
groups.google.com/group/jetty-firmware
Authors:
Dan Newman
Jetty
A derivative of firmware released by Makerbot Industries.
Any updates will be placed here, so check back often.
Medallion was created with OmNomNom Creator:
thingiverse.com/thing:24639
Note: This is not an official Makerbot firmware release.

Recent Comments

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Another Flashforge converted. I really love the bigger SD support which open the opportunity for Toshiba FlashAir wireless SD.

One feature request. Since I got my wireless SD working, is it possible to have some special file or folder on SD card to auto start the build. Like a folder name "Queue" on SD and if I dropped any files on that folder, the printer will auto move it some location (so it know what is already processed) and auto start printing. This way it will be completely remote and no need to go to the printer.
Hey can someone please save a EEPROM from his Makerbot Replicator Dual to his sd and upload it because I cannot connect my Printer to my PC anymore and I tried to delete the EEPROM but now its so loud and doesnt print so smooth. So if someone can do this so I can use his or her EEPROM that would by great
You really should take this to the jetty-firmware @ groups.google.com which is the forum intended for such issues. These comments are not a support forum. Second, the extruder has to have a temp of 26C or more for the fan to turn on. What temp. shows for that extruder? If you've disabled the extruder (by setting the extruder count to 1), then the fan won't run at all as you've told the electronics that it does not exist. And, it's possible that there's a bug in the code. I strongly doubt that MakerBot ever tested this particular code and this code is identical in Sailfish (since it's the same code).

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License

GNU - GPL
Sailfish Firmware by jetty is licensed under the GNU - GPL license.

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Instructions

Installation instructions: makerbot.com/sailfish/install/
Setup Guide: makerbot.com/sailfish/setup/
Printing out the attached "MakeByASailfish", at 100 Micron
- Download the zip
- Set deprime in your acceleration settings to 0
- Replicator: Using Printomatic, generate for dual extrusion with 100% fill,
120mm/s feed rate, 0 shells, 0.1mm layer height, and 200mm/s travel feed rate
- ToM with LCD: Do the same as replicator but use Pause@ZPos for 1.02mm to change
colors.
Sep 16, 2014 - Modified Sep 16, 2014
Another Flashforge converted. I really love the bigger SD support which open the opportunity for Toshiba FlashAir wireless SD.

One feature request. Since I got my wireless SD working, is it possible to have some special file or folder on SD card to auto start the build. Like a folder name "Queue" on SD and if I dropped any files on that folder, the printer will auto move it some location (so it know what is already processed) and auto start printing. This way it will be completely remote and no need to go to the printer.
Hey can someone please save a EEPROM from his Makerbot Replicator Dual to his sd and upload it because I cannot connect my Printer to my PC anymore and I tried to delete the EEPROM but now its so loud and doesnt print so smooth. So if someone can do this so I can use his or her EEPROM that would by great
I wonder if its is possible in the firmware to run both cooling fans when printing with only 1 extruder?
I got the replicator 2X and have problem with heatcreep printing PETT.

I have put thermal grease between heatsinks and alu block and this helped a little but i want more air blown :)
Set the setpoint temperature for the cooling fan to a low temperature such as 10C. Do that with RepG's Machine > Onboard Parameters. You may also be able to do it via MakerWare. The temp is, if I recall correctly, under the extruder tabs.
I see only the PID parameters under the extruder tabs :/

I know this setting was in stock firmware somewhere.

Any more tips?

Thanks :)
The setting is *identical* in both MBI's stock firmware and Sailfish. If you prefer using the technique of the "stock" firmware, then install the MakerWare EEPROM maps for Sailfish. They are a zip file which you can download from this Sailfish thing. There's a README file which tells you how and where to put them. (Note that MakerWare 3.x includes these files for up to Sailfish 7.6.)

Then, use MakerWare's Machine > Onboard Parameters. Find the section for the extruders. May have a name like "T0 Data".
In that, there's "Cooling Fan Settings". And in that, there's "Setpoint C". You can set that value to any value between 0 and 300. Do not set it to 0 as that may actually disable it.
Aug 11, 2014 - Modified Aug 11, 2014
Cadplast - in reply to dnewman
Yes installed eeprom maps, and there the setting is, i found it.

But dont seems to respond to my setting? i set it to 26 degrees celcius but second fan still does not start.

EDIT: i set both the T0 and T1 parameters, i guess its for extruder 1 and 2?

Am i doing something wrong? Makerware said that the setting was a success?

Your help is very appreciated, thanks
You really should take this to the jetty-firmware @ groups.google.com which is the forum intended for such issues. These comments are not a support forum. Second, the extruder has to have a temp of 26C or more for the fan to turn on. What temp. shows for that extruder? If you've disabled the extruder (by setting the extruder count to 1), then the fan won't run at all as you've told the electronics that it does not exist. And, it's possible that there's a bug in the code. I strongly doubt that MakerBot ever tested this particular code and this code is identical in Sailfish (since it's the same code).
OK IT WORKS :)

HAD TO WAIT FOR THEM TO COOL DOWN FIRST BELOW THAT SETTING SO THE FAN WAS RESET AND THEN PREHEAT AGIAN.

LETS SEE NOW WHAT HAPPENS WITH MY HEATCREEP :)

THANK YOU SOO MUCH!
Aug 9, 2014 - Modified Aug 9, 2014
I just loaded the newest firmware. Now whenever I start a print my flashforge overrides the temperature in the gcode and prints at 230 always how do I fix this?

Figured it out. In utilities>general there is a setting to override GcTemp which was on by default I dont know why anyone would want that on by default but anyway I fixed it.
Well, truth be told, that option is NOT on by default. That it was on for you indicates that you missed one or more steps of the installation and configuration directions. You need to go back and review them and make sure you did not miss any important steps. In this case, you missed an important step about resetting the printer to factory defaults: you have EEPROM with the settings for MBI's firmware, not Sailfish. As such, you may have all sorts of crazy values as Sailfish maps a block of 8K bytes
of EEPROM on top of it's view of the EEPROM.

For install and setup directions see

makerbot.com/sailfish/install/
makerbot.com/sailfish/setup/
Hi, any v7.7 release for flashForge Creator? When i try to update using "ReplicatorG Sailfish 0040r28" can only see the actual v7.6.

Thanks for the great work!!
v7.7 is in beta test. You're not using the beta test URL which for understandable reasons, should not be posted here. Otherwise, new users may try to use it when they probably shouldn't....
opss, sorry i did not see the "PRELIMINARY" text. Thank you :)
How hard is it to install the original software for the Makerbot replicator after installing Sailfish? Also, I guess, how hard is it to install sailfish? This looks like amazing software.
Install guide for Sailfish is at

makerbot.com/sailfish/install/

As to installing MBI's firmware, you'd have to ask them, no?
I had some problems with the timing of the reset of the CTC creator dual when trying to update the firmware to sailfish. but I got around this bu using the XLoader applicaton xloader.russemotto.com/ just find the right .hex file in the update xml file
I installed replicatorG and sailfish like the instructions, and set up a custom profile in ReplicatorG, however i can't change the hot bed temperature so it looks like for now I have to stick to makerware. I'm using a replicator dual knockoff but it has mk8 extruder. There is no option anywhere to change the bed temperature just automatically goes to the default abs setting which is 110 and I can't override it from the bots menu.
MakerWare is a better slicer than RepG, so nothing lost by sticking to MakerWare.With RepG, you're expected to either hand edit the gcode or make your own start.gcode file when you wish to change the HBP temp from the default start.gcode file. You hand edit the gcode by going to the gcode tab in the main window after slicing and then changing whatever you want to change.And, you actually can override the HBP temp from the bot's menu. Use Utilities > Preheat Settings on the LCD display to set the desired extruder temp and HBP temp. Then enable the "override gcode temp" feature from Utilities > General Settings. After you do that, when you print the pre-heat temps will be used in place of the temps in the gcode.
Thanks for the firmware, works a charm on my flashforge creator dual and the prints come out much better! Hat off to you!! Nearly fried my machine though and got the blue squares which makes the HBP heat to 200+ automatically and keep on going, hence the frying!!!, so all i did was to let it cool down, 1hr, install sailfish 40r23 again but left the firmware to download properly! until the last lines of the code displayed in the installation page came up in my log region in replicator! Feels like i have a new machine now! Cheers and keep up the good work!
Firmware install success. however Replicator G 0040r24 (or any version) does not contain an “Onboard Preferences…” via the "Machine menu", as per Setup A1 makerbot.com/sailfish/setup/ How can I change the X Max value without this? On a Mac, windows Replicator Software doesn't run at all on Windows XP.
This firmware can be used on Reprappro Huxley?
Only if you install Gen 3, Gen 4, or MightyBoard electronics.
Sooo is it possible to change the little tune that plays when a print is finished?
You can change your gcode to not play the ending song at all. There's only four choices

1. No gcode to play a tune
2. gcode to play the print done song, M72 P1
3. gcode to play error tone A, M72 P0
4. gcode to play error tone B, M72 P<any 0="" 1="" or="" other="" than="" value=""></any>
I have a CTC Makerbot Clone, can i use your firmware ?
We don't own CTC's; we don't know. Ask around in the CTC user forums if anyone is running Sailfish. If the CTC's truly can run MBI's firmware, then they can run Sailfish.
Well I downloaded this and uploaded the firmware to my flashforge. It no longer works. It just comes on to a blue screen with a bunch of boxes. Brand new motherboard ruined. Thanks.
1. Why do you think your motherboard is ruined? Just download a different firmware. The firmware does not alter your bootloader; it does not alter the USB firmware on the 8u2 USB chip either. Thus, you can just download a different firmware. No big deal. I've even accidentally put the wrong firmware on my Rep 1. I just put the correct one on and all was well. If you are not comfortable doing these sorts of things, then you probably shouldn't be changing the firmware on your bot.
2. Plenty of FlashForge users are using Sailfish; just check out the flashforge forum, [email protected].
3. Install and setup directions for Sailfish can be found at makerbot.com/sailfish/ .
4. lovethepirk has posted very complete install and setup information for Sailfish to the FlashForge forum. He even made a video. You'll need to search for his postings.
Yea you're right. I couldn't upload new firmware though (or really do anything for that matter) so I just thought that was it since it was the last thing I did and I'm new at this. However, I took a look at the motherboard and it looks like there was a small fire, so that would explain why I can't just download new firmware. I had probably just got a defective board from the factory I'm thinking that just chose that time to crap out.
Wow. Is this the replacement board for your FF board you reported as burnt in January? If this has happened twice in the same place -- HBP power -- then maybe the HBP is defective. For example, if the resistance is too low on its traces, it will draw more power than it should. Also, when the motherboard board was replaced, the wiring harness should have been replaced also: the end on that scorched connector may itself be damaged and have insufficient contact area. That causes increased resistance and thus abnormal heating at that reduced contact point.

And there is a rare event which happens on AVR processors: something goes wrong with the .hex file download and the bootloader itself gets nuked. Since that first runs when you start the bot, even when you're not downloading firmware, this then makes the uprocessor not work correctly. It starts the bootloader which, when no download happens within a few seconds, is supposed to then start the bot firmware. But if the bootloader is nuked, the bot firmware never starts. This unfortunate event has nothing to do with the particular firmware. It is just some sort of comms error which glitches the desktop / avrdude / uprocessor comms. We've see this come up now and then on the makerbot-operators forum even with just MBI firmware. And it comes up over in Arduino forums as well. If this has happened, it takes an AVR ISP programmer to put a new bootloader onto the processor. It's not rocket science, but isn't something most people are equipped to do.
Thanks for the insight and help Dan. We actually ended up replacing the HBP wire that first time also. This time we ended up just using that old motherboard I had and soldered the extra connector on it to the HBP and it works now. Keeping my fingers crossed on it not happening again.
Is there any way of turning the lights on or off during a print? I liked to do that when I went to bed but cant seem to find it in the menu since changing to sailfish
You clearly have not discovered the menus for changing things mid-print. While the print is running, just press the "M" button. The print monitor screen goes away and you have a new menu of things you can do. Scroll down. One of them is doing a cold pause on the bot: it pauses the print, turns the heaters off, and turns the LEDs off. However, if you are printing with a plastic which requires a heated platform, your print may release from the platform over night.

DO NOT LEAVE THE PRINTER RUNNING UNATTENDED.
thanks for the reply dnewman, pause and cold pausing doesnt give options to turn on the light after you start the print with the light off. Its impossible to sit and watch the machine on 16 hour prints ;) (toilet breaks at least lol)

ie. i start the print at night before bed with LEDs off, when i wake up i want to see the print in action but cant find a way to turn the LEDs on, makerbots stock firmware had an option to do this
I just cancelled a print and the head hit the left side of the Rep 1 when it was "Clearing the build area". Is that a bug?
And, if you cancel a print before homing has completed you WILL get odd behavior, even with MBI's firmware. Problem is that the coordinate system has not yet been defined until after all homing is finished. Thus, if the bot tries to clear the platform undefined things may happen.
This is not really a support forum. Please post over in the jetty-firmware or flashforge or makerbot-operators forum. This suggests that you did not complete all the install and setup steps.
I'm having trouble uploading the sailfish firmware. I'm on a ToM MK7 with mega2560 motherboard. I downloaded ReplicatorG 40r23 on my linux machine, changed the firmware site to Jetty's, it downloaded all the files, and I went to upload the firmware. After selecting the correct firmware, I hit upload. It instantly fails. I tried the reset trick, hit the reset then upload, hold reset, release and immediately hit upload, tried both of the above and hitting upload at the same time, tried all combinations of timing etc etc. It always fails instantly. What am I doing wrong?
resolved it by uploading from OSX.
Does sailfish have the replicator 2 bed leveling scripts via menu, if not where can i find them, would i run from the sd card. I had it installed but could not find the leveling scripts, so i moved back to stock firmare, i still want to install sailfish though
Yes. Utilities > Level Build Plate. Note that it's a very versatile leveling script: with your hand you move the nozzle/carriage to any point on the build plate where you want to check the gap/level. And you move it wherever as many times as you want. When done, you press the "M" button. So, it's not the same script that MBI uses that only allows to check 5 points.
nozzle calibration does not work ?
What exactly does not work? Be sure to see
_.
http://jettyfirmware.yolasite.com/v74-v44.php

Specifically,

-----------
New for the Replicator 1 and 2 (MightyBoard)

Specific to Replicators, changes have been made in two areas. First, the addition of new safety features which are explained in the section New Replicator safety features. Second, the removal from the firmware of the Nozzle Calibration scripts as described below.

For Replicators, the Nozzle Calibration scripts have been removed so as to free up program space. These are the scripts which print the calibration lines used to calibrate the nozzle spacing of Replicator 1 Duals and Replicator 2Xs. These scripts are now accessed via ReplicatorG's menu "File > Scripts > Calibration > Replicator 1, 2 & 2X". Owing to the difference in nozzle spacings, there are two Nozzle Calibration scripts: one for the Replicator 1 Dual and another for the Replicator 2X. Run the correct script for your bot. You can also save the script to an SD card and run it from the card.

After running the script, use the bot's onboard Nozzle Calibration menu found under the Utilities menu. That menu will allow you to enter the X and Y calibration numbers as per the directions at Makerbot's Nozzle Alignment directions (http://www.makerbot.com/support/replicator/troubleshooting/nozzle-align/

--------

Finally, these comments are really not a support forum. Please use the [email protected] forum. Or [email protected].
ok, I will see if i dare try the replicatorG software again, last time, it tried to move the stepstruder out of the machine :o)
That symptom usually means that the setup directions were not correctly followed. Usually the "reset motherboard to factory settings" wasn't done from RepG 40r22 - Sailfish's Machine > Onboard Parameters. It can also happen by using the wrong slicing profile such as using a slicing profile from a Rep 2 on a 2X. That because the Rep 2 can park the extruder farther to the left than a Rep 2X can. So, you have to be sure to select the correct machine type in RepG. And if you try to use someone else's slicing profiles (e.g., Wingcommander's Rep 2 profiles), then you have to adjust them for your bot's geometry.)

Since you have a Dup 4, I don't know offhand what is the correct slicing profile. I don't myself know if you should be use a Rep 1 dual profile or a Rep 2X profile. However, whatever profile you use will impact where the head is parked while waiting for heatup. And if the head is parked too far to the left or too far forward, then it hits the front or side of the bot. Of course, you can always adjust the start.gcode in the profile to prevent that. But that assumes some familiarity with editing gcode.
thanks. i will check: )
i installed sailfish on a duplicator 4, but i forgot to do the restore saved offsets? what do i do?
Just reset the bot to factory defaults. It's unlikely that that clone came with the toolhead offsets calibrated anyway.
will sailfish be able to run in a cubex trio now or at a later time?
The Cubex Trio is a proprietary bot running proprietary firmware. Unless the Cubex folks port Sailfish to their printers, I would not expect to see Sailfish running on one.
Woohoo! Finally printing with SF on my Duplicator 4. Only pushing 90mm/s but I am still fine tuning the settings. I will be posting a "Made One" once I get my pics uploaded. If I read correctly somewhere...I should be able to run Slic3r???
Thanks so much for the awesome fw guys! More details to come very soon, just wanted to say thanks and mad props!
i installed it also. 7.5 but leveling the bed seem to move the stepstruder out of printing area, crashing at the edge, did this happen to you ?
Did you follow all the setup directions? See makerbot.com/sailfish/ . On the left of the page is a link to the setup guide. You have to reset the bot to factory defaults and then select the correct Machine > Machine Type in RepG 40r22-Sailfish. Then connect to the bot over USB from RepG so that machine dimensions are sent to the bot.
Did you make sure to install the ReplicatorG software that came with SailFish? I had that issue and am almost certain that is why.. Hit me up in a message as far as the saved offsets thing goes, maybe I can help you sort it out?
im pretty sure i did, however, I got very unsure about which board i was to choose, first time i got it wrong, and choosed one that gave me blank LCD display, second time it got back online working.

can you give me the link to the correct replicatorG software to test aagain?

i use makerware atm
The correct RepG to use is ReplicatorG 0040r22 - Sailfish. It's a download of this Thing here at Thingiverse. That is, it is a download of the Sailfish Thing.
I did the same thing! The Duplicator 4 uses the older Replicator 1 board option when installing/uploading SailFish firmware. I will shoot you an email here soon with a pic of my offset values etc. for you. My carriage did not crash into the wall during bed leveling but rather at the beginning of prints.

The correct replicator G software to use with SailFish is available for download right here, with the Thing files. I am still not sure if SF is the best choice for the Dup4. I plan on doing one more try in the next couple weeks. I just reverted back to factory after another few day test with SailFish.

My main motivation for wanting to use SailFish is so that I may use Slic3r instead of RepG.
looking forward:) thanks

as for the duplicator i have some issues with the nozzle heights, i think it's due that i accidently forgot to move the glassclamps, and the stepstruders crashed with it, i think that caused some minor height adjustments.. I will try to compensate using the shields as a shim
I found out my printer issue...I have been using only the right print head and somehow the Teflon tube inside overheated and shrank which allowed filament to extrude out the threads causing print issues as not enough filament was reaching the print bed.

SailFish will live again on my Dup4...very soon! I will miss the easy bed leveling script that is on the stock RepG :(
Yes, you can use slic3r, KISSlicer, Cura, Simplify3D, Skeinforge, or MakerWare. Maybe some others as well? You will need to use RepG or GPX to convert the gcode to x3g as Makerbots (and hence Sailfish) does not directly consume gcode.
Thank you so much! I shall report my findings with great detail in my Made One (very soon) as well as the Google forums. Be on the look out for a pm from myself via the Thingiverse mailBot, hehe. As I would very much like to contribute to the SailFish crew. Peace and happy creating!
Weird...I was messing around with RepG and Slic3r. I had a couple prints work great running SF, then I had to troubleshoot through some bad filament. After all that...I tried printing again and something went way wrong...the extruder carriage upon print start was running full force into the left hand wall (opposite home on the X axis). I fiddled with it some more and then it did the same thing but this time towards the front of the unit (opposite Y axis home position).
I have reset the EEEPROM and rested for the night. I am going to reinstall the control software (after I ensure no old profiles are left behind) and start from scratch.
Sounds like your X home position of X toolhead offset was not correctly set. Make sure that you are using RepG 40r22 - Sailfish as downloaded from this Thing. Do NOT use MBI's RepG 40 as it actually has some bugs in this regard (setting the home offsets and toolhead offsets). Also, you have to make sure in RepG or MakerWare that you have the correct machine type selected. Otherwise, the wrong build dimensions are assumed and the parking position while waiting for heat up is wrong, causing the extruder carriage to be moved too far to the left and/or too far forward. (That issue is the same regardless of what firmware you use: it's all a matter of the gcode produced by the slicer: if the slicer thinks you have a different bot, then it doesn't know the correct build volumes for your bot.)
4 days into Sailfish and I am reverting back to FACTORY firmware. I have had nothing but issues with my printer since installing Sailfish...and the prints look worse than my tweaked factory settings. Not to mention that my slicing time has increased at least 2x than before SF.
If you're not familiar with using Skeinforge, then use MakerWare. MakerWare works just fine with Sailfish.
Sweet! Thanks very much. I don't doubt I somehow mixed up the RepG downloads. I have it back to stock right now and I plan on loading Sailfish again very soon as I am very pleased with the feature rich and robust SF firmware.
Sadly, I cut my teeth with Slic3r on a Hadron Ordbot and although Skeinforge has many great features and is very tweakable, I find it quite a bit harder to navigate and decipher. I do read (and re-read) the online help so that I may understand Skeinforge more.
Thanks again for taking the time to help me figure out my goof and understand my combination a little better. Also, hats off to you and jetty PLUS the entire community...great bunch of lads all around!
I'm having a problem with my nozzle alignment. I have a Rep 2X running
sailfish. I'm using OS X. I do the test print using an SD card and it looks like I need to change my X to 6
and my Y to 8. So I go to Nozzle Calibration on the printer and change
them, then I hit "Done!". But it doesn't save my changes. When I go back
into Nozzle Calibration they are both back on 7 where they started.
What am I doing wrong? Thanks for any help.
You have an incorrect expectation: the "Nozzle Calibration" screen is not a setting. It's merely how you input the numbers from printing the nozzle calibration script. It will always start showing 7 & 7. It takes the numbers you input and then computes the actual X and Y toolhead offsets and sets those values as the toolhead offsets (which you can see from RepG 40r22 - Sailfish using Machine > Onboard Parameters).
Thanks for the info. That helps a lot. I'll play around with it some more this evening and see if I can get it all straightened out. I appreciate the quick reply!
Is this thing still better than what Makerbot Replicator Duals are set up with or has it become outdated?
I agree with bbence... I've had much better luck on my Rep1 Dual with sailfish than with any of the stock firmwares.
Nope, this one is much better than stock FW.
Dan, Jetty, thanks for such a beautiful contribution. I pulled off my first few 50 micron prints this weekend thanks in part to sailfish.
can you please make it work with printrboard or other boards like ramps? that will open the doors to user makerware with other repraps
Install Gen 4 or Mightyboard-clone electronics on your RepRap. Other folks have gone that route; was just helping someone with a Prusa i3.
When I unzipped RepG 040r22 I saw ReplicatorG-large-models.exe What is that for?
For large STL files that would normally otherwise exceed the amount of memory that Java allows the normal RepG to use.
I flashed my replicator 2 with sailfish and now it will not read the SD Card. I get nothing but a notice saying SD Card read error. So I flashed the replicator back to stock firmware and the card reads fine. I'll try Sailfish again someday in the future, hopefully that problem will be worked out by then
1. Did you follow the setup directions and reset your bot to factory defaults from RepG 40r22 - Sailfish? Sounds like you didn't and as a result had who knows what settings in EEPROM including a setting to enable SD card error detection. It's off by default. If it was on -- and it sounds like it was -- then that means you did not complete the setup directions. (Install and setup information is found at makerbot.com/sailfish/ .)

It's also possible you have broken SD card hardware. I've had my Rep 2 get a piece of fine filament down in the SD card slot such that the SD card inserted switch did not work. I could see the fine piece of filament with a flashlight. I was able to blow it out with compressed air. I also saw similar on someone else's bot and tweezers were needed to get it out. It's a problem with how MBI made that slot: debris can fall in it unlike the side mounted slot on the Rep 1.

But why is interruption of the SD card select switch an issue? Because Sailfish depends upon it working so that it can provide SD card folder support. (And FAT-32 support for high capacity SD cards.) Soooo, there's some chance that was your issue. However, not resetting the EEPROM to factory defaults from RepG is more likely the case. At any rate, the Sailfish build for "broken SD card hardware" works on bots with a failed SD card detect switch. You can always run with that instead. Downside is that you do not get SD card folder support.
Oh, and like Jetty wrote -- if SD card error detection was enabled and you were seeing errors, then you may want to fix the underlying issue -- use a different SD card since read errors are occurring with the one you're using. MBI's firmware doesn't check for read errors: it just blindly accepts whatever it gets from the card and has no clue if there was a data error. Sailfish can optionally enable the SD card's error detection handling. If an error is then detected, Sailfish will attempt to re-read the data. If the re-reads for a given chunk of data fails 5 times in a row, then Sailfish gives up. And given that the SD card signal interface on the Rep 1 and Rep 2 is poorly implemented at the electonics level, it's not at all unusual to come across an SD card which is behaving in a borderline fashion: it will work fine in your laptop/desktop which has decent electronics for SD cards, but it will not work well in the makerbot which has poorly designed electronics for SD cards. Fix is to use a different SD card. (I have a stack of SD cards which are borderline in a Rep 2, don't work at all in a Rep 1 which has an even lousier electronics design, work great in my Thing-o-Matic, and work great in my laptop. Exact same firmware on all three bots.)
Sounds like your SD Card or Mightyboard is faulty. Sailfish has extra SD Card checking than the stock firmware does, you can disable it in onboard preferences, but you want to fix the root cause.
I just got my Replicator 2 earlier this week. The card reader works perfectly fine with the stock firmware, and has worked fine on every print so far. But I'm not arguing with you. If there is something actually broken, but it works with the stock firmware then how would I confirm that in a way that I could have makerbot fix it?

Mosty likely scenario is that theres a good chance I might have missed something in the instructions. I was kinda rushing it, I had just unboxed the Replicator about 5 hours earlier. (embarrassed) While I'm not a noob, I'm out of touch with the firmware world enough to feel like one again. (I built a prusa mendel but got sooo tired of always tweaking it, I sold it and bought an Up!)
You could be having read errors and never know it. Some read errors will kill a print (error causes a an invalid command); sometimes the bot with MBI's firmware will simply tell you the card is incorrectly formatted which really means that the read errors were so bad, MBI's firmware couldn't access the files on the card at all; and some read errors will just make minor imperfections which you may never see, especially if they are on the infill (missing G1 or incorrect gcode G1 command). Since MBI's firmware has no way of detecting a read error short of the print out right failing, there's no way to tell from MBI's firmware in the first place.
And, btw, for MBI's latest rev of their motherboard they had to slow down the SD card data rate from 8 MHz to 1 MHz. You may have one of those newer motherboards on which they did make changes to the electronics. It's a "RevH" MightyBoard. In Sailfish 7.5 we went ahead and slowed the SD card data rate down to 1 MHz as well. So, if you were using Sailfish 7.4 and had one of those newest motherboards, it's conceivable that you might have seen an issue. If so, then the solution would be to run 7.5 of Sailfish. (And if it were a problem for Sailfish 7.4 then it would also be a problem for MBI's 7.2 firmware which also used the faster 8 MHz SD card data rate.)
I checked my board. Mine is rev H. I tried sailfish one more time. 7.5 tells me "sd card reads are not going well" as soon as I click the sd card menu. I tried 4 different sd cards, 7.5b says "sd card read error" Same story with sailfish 7.4 and 7.4b. On MBI 7.3 the card reads ok. I havent had any error messages on any prints yet, I did have one tall thin print where a few layers looked melted but I think it was because the edge lifted from the bed at some point. Maybe I'll shoot makerbot support an email to see what they say. Thanks for the help
So, I looked the code over and I saw that it's still using the old 8 MHz SD card data rate used by MBI since 2009. While we updated the code to switch to MBI's 1 MHz data rate for the rev H mightyboard, the 8 MHz was still being used. (The code can build using either, it was building with the 8 MHz variant instead of the new 1 MHz variant.) I've fixed things to actually build with the 1 MHz variant and I will test it now and then upload a new revision in case you want to test again. If you send me an e-mail at d a n . n e w m a n @ m t b a l d y . u s, I'll let you know when I've uploaded it for testing.
Okay, uploaded is r1135 for the Rep 2 and Rep 2X. It should use a 1 MHz data rate. If you try it, remember to reset to factory defaults from RepG. And if it then works, please let us know as that means that MBI's latest revH board is somehow changed such that it cannot handle an 8MHz SD card data rate.
And you remembered to reset your EEPROM to factory defaults from RepG 40r22 Sailfish's "Machine > Onboard Preferences" menu?
I did reset the EEPROM when I last tried it, Sorry I havent tried the new version yet, Had hardware problems I was troubleshooting on my replicator. Found that the factory hadnt tightened the screw on the back left y axis pulley and the rod had worked its way out so that the pulley was slightly off. I dont know if mine came from the new factory or if UPS was rough with it, but mechanically it has needed a lot of TLC. Thanks for the help! :D
Just tried r1135. it works!!! Thankyou very much. :D
Thanks for the followup. Guess this means that MBI did something electrically to the SD card system that makes it not function at the 8 MHz data rate. Could be that they worked on improving the signal integrity -- it was subpar -- but as a side effect, the technique they used cannot handle 8 MHz.
Commands M106 M107 have speed control (PWM) in firmware Sailfish? I can use it as a On/Off command but with the M106 Snnn parameter, speed does not change.
PWM has never been supported by Replicators (regardless of the firmware). On Cupcakes and Thing-o-Matics, PWM for fans has nothing to do with the Sailfish firmware -- fans are handled by the extruder controller which is a separate board with its own processor and firmware.
Thank you again for this excellent firmware! I especially find the Pause@ZPos feature to be extremely useful. :)

I'm currently iterating on a color-chip design that includes embedded magnets (hoops are a thing of the past!), and the repeated printing got me to find out about the "M322" command, but I haven't been able to get it working, especially since I can't seem to find any posted examples of its usage (both for location in the gcode and the format for its parameter).

Also, in fumbling with finding and reading the implementation (https://github.com/jetty840/Sailfish-G3Firmware/pull/34/files), it appears that it will only accept integral mm for the parameter, but I definitely want to at an automatic pause at a sub-mm precision (to snugly fit the magnets).

Can someone who's familiar with M322 help me by giving me an example of its insertion into the gcode after slicing?

Also, assuming the z-position is in the middle of a layer, does anyone know if the pause occurs before or after that layer is printed? (I've been adding one layer to the height just in case the answer is "before")

Thanks!
Hey Austin! Long time no hear.

You need the in beta test Sailfish 4.4 / 7.4 and RepG 40r16 in order to use the M322. Or, in place of RepG 40r16, Henry Thomas' GPX which also has a meta language for doing fun stuff like interjecting a pause @ Zpos and then knowing that the filament thereafter will have a different diameter.

To find out about the in-beta Sailfish and RepG, see the announcements at the jetty-firmware group at groups.google.com. (You'll need to join to search/see postings.)

As to the format of the M322 (after you have RepG 40r16), to pause at Z=zzz.zz, use the mcode

M322 Zzzz.zz
Ah! That would definitely explain what I was seeing!

Hmm, it's extremely tempting to beta test it, but at least until E3 is past I think I'm going to stick with the current setup. :)

Thank you for the quick reply!
Finally jumped to the 7.3 on a Rep1 (XL) and the upgrade was smooth. I'd been running all 6.x for a while since I couldn't afford any downtime. Printing great!
Thanks for the update John. The next release, 7.4, should be quite low risk. (Famous Last Words, eh?) But the nice thing about it is that it will bring SDHC & FAT-32 support finally.
i have a question, if upgrading repG to new revision in windows, what is the best way to do it? Thanks!
Hi- I got Sailfish installed on my Replicator1, but now the extruder temp reads as NA on the LCD or 1024 from within ReplicatorG. The Troubleshooting page indicated this is something I can fix in the Onboard Preferences dialogue- it suggesed "Override Gcode Temperature" is enabled. I find no mention of this in the dialogue and under the Extruder tab all I find are PID values. Any ideas?
This really ins't a support forum. Please join the jetty-firmware list at groups.google.com.
Hi- I just acquired a Replicator 1 and am installing Sailfish on it. After installing and upon trying to test the extruder I'm having an issue where the extruder reports its 1024 degrees and I'm trying to troubleshoot it. Specifically, on the machine's LCD it says the temp is NA, in Replicator G, it states the temp is 1024 degrees.

The Sailfish troubleshooting page talks about this:
"My bot is heating to the wrong temperature.
You probably have Sailfish’s “Override Gcode Temperature” feature enabled. This feature overrides the temperature set in your GCode in favor of the temperature set in your onboard Preheat Settings. You can set the Preheat Settings to the temperature you need, or turn the feature off altogether in ReplicatorG’s Onboard Preferences window."

However, I am not finding any of this under the Onboard Preferences panel. The only thing under the Extruder tab is the PID values.

Anyone have any leads on how to fix this?
There have been a number of threads on this recently on the makerbot-operators group: your Replicator has one of it's three heater sensors not plugged in, shorting, or intermittently not registering. It could be the wiring connector to the HBP is failing, or one of the thermocouple wires is failing, or one of the thermocouple beads has broken through the kapton tape which insulates it from the heater block, or the wires for any of these three sensors need to be tightened down. But, from the firmware side of things this means that the firmware is having repeated errors trying to read the temp for whichever sensor is being reported as 1024C.
So what should I do? Someone on the Jetty Google Groups suggest I should install Sailfish 7.1. Or do I need to check my connections somewhere? This is a brand new machine. If the extruder is giving the wrong temp, why would the HBP connectors be affecting this?
This isn't a very apt medium for support. Please discuss on the jetty-firmware mailing list @ groups.google.com.
Hi- I just acquired a Replicator 1 and am installing Sailfish on it. After installing and upon trying to test the extruder I'm having an issue where the extruder reports its 1024 degrees and I'm trying to troubleshoot it. Specifically, on the machine's LCD it says the temp is NA, in Replicator G, it states the temp is 1024 degrees.

The Sailfish troubleshooting page talks about this:
"My bot is heating to the wrong temperature.
You probably have Sailfish’s “Override Gcode Temperature” feature enabled. This feature overrides the temperature set in your GCode in favor of the temperature set in your onboard Preheat Settings. You can set the Preheat Settings to the temperature you need, or turn the feature off altogether in ReplicatorG’s Onboard Preferences window."

However, I am not finding any of this under the Onboard Preferences panel. The only thing under the Extruder tab is the PID values.

Anyone have any leads on how to fix this?
Hi- I just acquired a Replicator 1 and am installing Sailfish on it. After installing and upon trying to test the extruder I'm having an issue where the extruder reports its 1024 degrees and I'm trying to troubleshoot it. Specifically, on the machine's LCD it says the temp is NA, in Replicator G, it states the temp is 1024 degrees.

The Sailfish troubleshooting page talks about this:
"My bot is heating to the wrong temperature.
You probably have Sailfish’s “Override Gcode Temperature” feature enabled. This feature overrides the temperature set in your GCode in favor of the temperature set in your onboard Preheat Settings. You can set the Preheat Settings to the temperature you need, or turn the feature off altogether in ReplicatorG’s Onboard Preferences window."

However, I am not finding any of this under the Onboard Preferences panel. The only thing under the Extruder tab is the PID values.

Anyone have any leads on how to fix this?
amazing!
thank you so much for coding sailfish. it took me severeal hours to install and re-calibrate my tom.
but after all its a superb updated worth a few $
where can i donate?
all of the documentation for sailfish references the original replicator 1.

1: Does it work for the Rep2?
2: Will I still see improvements if I continue using Makerware with sailfish?
Read the jetty-firmware mailing list.
I'm trying to join the mail list but it won't let me for some reason. It opens a box to accept an invitation to join but clicking "join this group" won't go anywhere. I've tried joining with different browsers and it won't get past the invite screen. Any help?
Very Nice! Tried it today and prints are finer then ever before!
Nice feature for the next version would be an updated TOM-Dualstrusion -Profile where the build-plate only "shrinks" in x in the amount of head-spacing and keeps the full 120mm in y for the model-window - though everybody can change that.
The replicatorg-0040r9-Sailfish windows version is throwing a "Could not create the Java virtual machine" error. Windows7 64bit tells me it was configured to use a bundled Java Runtime but it is missing or corrupt. Any solutions?
I get this same error aswell. Cannot start Replicator G at all. I have stopped the conveyor service in Makerware if that would make a difference, but it did not.
Please join the jetty-firmware group at groups.google.com and post there. Comments on Thingiverse are not a useful medium with which to diagnose usage issues.
Will do!
BTW, if you moved the ReplicatorG.exe out of its folder (say to the Desktop) and then tried to run it, you would get *exactly* the error you reported. Specifically, Launch4j in the window title with the text, "This application was configured to use a bundled Java Runtime Environment but the runtime is missing or corrupted". Do not move the .exe out of it's folder. Instead right click on it, select "Copy". Then go to the desktop or wherever and then right click again, but select "Paste shortcut".
Odd, runs fine for me on Windows 7 64bit. Also Windows XP SP3 and Windows 7 32bit. I did not try Vista. The only change in that rev of RepG is to invoke the Java Virtual Machine (JVM) with a larger upper limit on the heap size: 1.4 GB instead of 0.75 GB. Other than that, there's no difference between it and r8.

Now, the package does include a bundled JVM. However, I don't believe it's missing or corrupt. Outdated, certainly, but not missing. Don't know about corrupt -- most anything might have corrupted it. Other folks have tested it on Windows and found it to work, so I'm not sure what might be amiss.
i just upgrade from the 3.5 and can't find where to change the jog
direction so if you push the left jog(X) it goes left and not right and
the same with the jog for the (Y).
thanks!
Do you mean changing from the coordinate system based motion to model view based motion OR do you mean that you need to invert the stepper motors for more than one axis? For the former, you can only do that if you have a Gen 4 LCD display. It's part of the jog menu where you change the MODE by pressing the "SET" button (center button on the rightmost column of buttons). If you mean the latter -- inverting an axis -- then you do that via ReplicatorG's Machine > Onboard Preferences screen.
thanks i found it in the jog menu, by mistake lol
This firmware exceeds all expectations! I was not prepared for the speed or quality that my TOM could provide. Thank you
I see we now have a RepG 40 as well as a 39... Does this build of 40 fix the toolhead offset issue found in the regular v40 release?
What toolhead offset issue? MBI changed the dualstrusion system in RepG 40 from what existed in RepG 39 and earlier. There's nothing to "fix" there per se. You either use the old system or the new system. However, the currently released versions of Sailfish do not support the new system. The next release -- 4.2 & 7.1 -- will support both the old and new dualstrusion systems. That release is due out this upcoming week.

If, however, you are referring to some other issue with toolhead offsets, then please be more specific. And, more importantly, please discuss on the jetty-firmware mailing list.
Yes, that's what I'm asking.. does this new v40 build associated with this thing, support offsets the way sailfish expects?
No. There's no reason why we would change that. If you want the old dualstrusion system, then use RepG 39 or RepG 39 - Sailfish for dualstrusion. If you want the new dualstrusion system then use RepG 40 or RepG 40r5 - Sailfish. All that needs changing is a new version of Sailfish which supports either the old or new systems. Sailfish 4.1 and 7.0 only support the old system. Sailfish 4.2 and 7.1 supports both the old and new systems. 4.2 and 7.1 are still in beta test but may be released later this week.
Thanks.
I cant upgrade my Replicator 1 to version 7.1 every time it says upload failed
7.1 is in beta test. This is not a "forum" to discuss beta test releases. As t your specific question, the upload failing, you likely have the timing off with doing the reset or have possibly bricked your uprocessor. This is not Sailfish specific and is a more general usage question best posted to the makerbot-operators newsgroup.
I cant upgrade to version 7.1 on my Replicator 1 dual every times it says ulpoading failed
Confirmed that Replicator 40-R005 and the 7.1Beta Firmware fixes the offset/centering problem on my machine encountered when using Replicator40 and 7.0 firmware on my machine. Remove the -33 bit from the x-tool-offset that causes prints with the left toolhead to be offset by 33mm :).

Thanks Jetty, you rock!
Oh sweet, a new version!?
What's changed?
Preliminary beta release notes were posted today to the jetty-firmware group at groups.google.com.
Holding my breath that my Rep2 can print at these type of speeds one day.
It's now available for the Rep 2. See jettyfirmware.yolasite.com/v71-v42.php
1: I love you
2: MakerWare is a no-go for this firmware correct?
3: SD folders?!? Damn you I just bought like a dozen SD cards to organize everything!
4: Is there a paypal address where I can donate so you can keep being awesome?
gcode / x3g generated by MakerWare should work with Sailfish,
including previously exported x3g.
Pardon all the questions, but does imply that doing Makerware -> x3g -> SD card is just as effective as going through sailfish RepG, I just need to change speeds?

And I still want to give you money if you're going to make my bot into 1.5 bots.
I don't use MakerWare myself so I don't know what the pitfalls might be. But for the time being, you should be able to do much of your slicing and x3g generation from MW. You need RepG to download the firmware, for initial bot setup (RepG sends data to the bot over USB as part of configuring the bot the first time), and you need to use RepG if you later want to change any of the bots "on board preferences" from your computer (as opposed to using the LCD display).

For further questions, you'd be better served to join the jetty-firmware group at groups.google.com.

As to donations, you can send me a private message and I'll send you my paypal address. Jetty and I split them 50/50 and use the funds for purchasing filament and other consumables or parts we use in doing our firmware testing.
I want to upgrade to Sailfish but have ReplicatorG 040 loaded for my Replicator. I'm also running 6.2 firmware. How can I do this? I have not found anyway to make the switch.
1. Download ReplicatorG 39 - Sailfish
2. Install ReplicatorG 39 - Sailfish
3. Install the Sailfish 7.0 firmware
4. Launch ReplicatorG 39 - Sailfish
5. Select "Replicator Single" or "Replicator Dual" for your Machine Type. (Note, Replicator 2's and 2X's are not yet supported.)
6. Connect from ReplicatorG 39 - Sailfish to your bot over USB; it will send some settings to the bot.
7. From Machine > Onboard Preferences use "Reset to Factory Settings" to ensure that the EEPROM doesn't have odd values.
8. If you will be doing dualstrusion, convert your X Toolhead Offset from MBI's new system back to the old system:
a. If the value is near zero, then you have the old system -- stop here
b. If the value is near +33 mm then change it to "old value - 33.0". You may have a negative values; that's okay.
c. If the value is near -33 mm, then change it to "old value + 33.". Again, a negative value is okay.
The 3rd and 4th rows on my Gen 4 MBI interface board are shifted 4 spaces to the right since I upgraded my thingomatic to this firmware. On most screens this isn't an issue but on some screens it cuts off information. Anyone else have this issue?
The 3rd and 4th rows on the LCD interface are shifted to the right 4 spaces since I upgraded. On some screens this isn't an issue but on others it cuts off information. Anyone else have this issue? This is on a thigomatic with MBI Interface.
Common issue discussed multiple times in the makerbot-operators and jetty-firmware groups. Quick workaround should be to reset your EEPROM to defaults from RepG. Then don't do the naughty thing of leaving your bot connected to USB when powered off as that's know to cause problems owing to a design flaw in the v2.x motherboard. (There's power provided to the AVR, but not enough what with the EC and stepper drivers leaching power as well. The AVR tries to run on close to 1.5 V and browns out but in the process manages to poke the EEPROM setting for the LCD display size. Workaround: don't power over USB alone; fix is to reburn the AVR fuses for a 4.3 V BOD and to wire the ATX power supplies "power good" pin to the AVR's reset pin via a 1K resistor.)
I have to say, I had just about given up on my TOM. all I was ever printing were things to test if the machine was still working, and those things took forever, and printed so inconsistently that it just wasn't worth my time, and totally uninteresting to my kids. I spent hours and hours adding a second print head for dualstrusion using dissolvable filament so I could print some 'moving parts', hoping that would make 3d printing magical, but it was just another exercise in patience with a payoff that fell short. Sailfish has brought our TOM to life! it's now running every chance it gets (thank god because my collection of filament would have been wasted), already made field trips to classrooms at school, and we're working with teachers and friends to finally have this be a walk up device for imaginative kids. THANK YOU!
How to re burn the fuses? I didn't see any ISP header and the Atmel is not removable.
Hi, after a failed ebay purchase of a TOM LCD interface I'm wondering if the interface can be replicated via software onto the host pc? instead of having the processor drive the interface directly use that processing power to drive a low volume feedback to the pc and then that to be turned into a on screen interface.... I know it would not be easy but you have shown the skill that kill in making your own drivers and firmware why not go one step further... even with the replicator
I'm sure a lot of people would love a on screen interface over the little LCD one.
Interesting idea but I'm pretty sure nearly everything the LCD can do is already implemented in RepG. If someone wants to code it I would try it.
As of today, the current URL for documentation: makerbot.com/sailfish/install/
Is the wiki broken?
OH MY GOD...!
Thank you..thank you...thank you.
I'm in the middle of my first test print..started @ 100mm/s just because..cranking it up soon!
I cannot believe the difference..Took a 19 minute print down to 5 minutes 40 seconds. Can't wait to crank this thing up...!
I'm only seeing 404 errors when trying to access any of the linked to wiki pages. Is anyone else seeing the same thing?
Hey Austin!

wiki.makerbot.com is no more. The docs are moving to makerbot,com but that will take a few more days. They are archived at makerbot.com/support/archive under the "Pages Archive" link. (A zip file.)
Thanks!
hi - today - 1/5/13. wiki.makerbot.com does not give up your files... I get the Page not found error.
Any chance those wiki docs linked above have been moved to a new home?

Looks like wiki.makerbot.com has finally gone offline. I knew this was coming so its more of a friendly reminder. :)
All of wiki.makerbot.com was archived at

makerbot.com/support/archive

And the Sailfish docs will be resurfacing soon at makerbot.com as distinct pages (as opposed to being lumped in an archive).
This was an easy print and nice print to display.
Is there a new home for the setup guide? the links to makerbot are not working.
Use Google's cached page:
http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache%3Awiki.makerbot.com%2Fsailfish-firmware-installation-guide&http://oq=cache%3Awiki.makerbot.com%2Fsailfish-firmware-installation-guide&sugexp=chrome,mod=19&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
I am having a rather odd issue with the firmware. Running a TOM with MK6 and 3mm filament. For some reason the printer seems to consistently lose steps on the X axis about 1/4 of the way through a print regardless of what settings I throw at it. Anyone else experiencing issues like this? Any suggestions on a way to resolve?
I have the same problem. I tried printing a medium sized object three or four times. Each time, part way through the print, the Heated Build Platform would jump over about 1/2" at the start of a new layer. Sometimes it would do it multiple times. It do it on the same layer each time. I tried printer other objects as well with the same results. It started doing this when I upgraded to Sailfish. Before that, I was using the stock firmware. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
What slicer are you using? Are you printing over USB (bad idea in general) or from an SD card (good idea always). If printing from an SD card *and* using RepG 40 or RepG 40 - Sailfish are you being careful to always select "x3g" as the output file type?
For slicer I am using Skeinforge 50, printing from SD. I do not happen to have the external controller so my bot is connected to my PC and printing from the SD card that way. I have double checked and I am using the x3g files.
With acceleration your bot is probably skipping steps because your stepper voltages are not at the optimal settings. I had this same problem until I looked up the pot values for my steppers and set them to the correct voltage. There should be some documentation on MBI's site that shows the correct values for the steppers you have.
I can take her apart and double check this again, but I know that I had recently done this as little as 1 week ago. Sometimes I get a successful print but I would have to say 8 times out of 10 the poor bot skips steps. I even went as far to verify that my belts are not too tight.
I've found with models that are very complex I sometimes have to slow the acceleration down or it will skip steps like you are describing.

Good luck I hope you figure it out.
Ok I reset the pot values on all (the x was off on the ref v. Supposed to be .600 mine was .603), and still no luck. Mid print loses step and messes up. I am wondering if my X board is starting to hit its end of life.
Do you know which stepper motors you have on your bot? If you have the newer ToM stepper motors (~April 2011 and later), then the correct Vref voltage is 1.68V for the X & Y stepper motors. It's only for the older stepper motors that you use 0.60 V. The build directions for the ToM show side-by-side pictures of the old and new stepper motors.

Note that a difference of 0.003V (0.603 vs 0.600V) will not make any difference as that's well within the error range of most inexpensive multimeters.
I have one of the first production runs of the TOM so I have the original stepper motors. Should I consider getting the newer ones maybe?
Well, newer ones will in general work better. Have you read softsolder.com/2011/05/05/thing-o-matic-mbi-stepper-motor-analysis/ which was in part or whole what led to MBI changing the stepper motors? However, I do not know if those motors are at the root of your problem or not. It could just be that you need to reduce the max travel speed, use slightly larger max x & y speed changes (yes, I wrote larger), or something else. As to larger max x & y speed changes, try 30 mm/s for them rather than the 15 mm/s used for fine. (30 mm/s should work as well on a ToM and will actually improve some of the acceleration planning; something which was addressed in the current beta of the firmware).
Tried upping as you suggested and the skipping happened more often. Moved her back to 15 mm/s. That was a good read. I think for the money I may just invest in the newer motors.
Its good to know that I am not alone with that problem, I spent half the day with this.
I have the same Hardware as GodfatherUr, TOM Mk6, 3 mm ABS . Just checked: I also have the older Makerbot NEMA17 Motors (VRef=0.6V). BTW the accelerated Jetty Firmware (pre Sailfish, with SF35) is working fine on my TOM.
I may have to roll back to the previous firmware if you are not experiencing these problems on that one. Anything special I would need to do to roll back? Also which version of RepG are you running?
With RepG39 and firmware 4.0 I did some decent prints with 70 mm/s (Feed rate) and 100 mm/s travel rate ( MK6 (accelerated) and SK35).

With RepG40 and Sailfish I managed to print at 60 mm/s (feed rate) without having problems. I am sorry, the difference is not so big.
I tried increasing the motor current. At forum posting somebody claimed that increasing Vref from 0.6 to 0.8 will increase the motor current, however, I didn't notice a difference (maybe the machine has become a bit louder?)

I also think that replacing the original motors by the newer ones (from Moons) will allow faster printing speeds.
The 4.0 firmware *is* Sailfish. The current version of Sailfish on the ToM is v4.1 which only has minor changes and certainly no changes that would impact print speeds or quality. Note also that if you are using SF-35 with Sailfish, then that may be part of your difficulties: Sailfish expects SF-50 and isn't supported for use with SF-35 at least to the extent that we've never tested Sailfish with SF-35, do not provide slicing profiles for use with SF-35, and if you are having issues with SF-35 the first thing to do is to stop using SF-35 and move to SF-50.
I am not 100 % sure, it was either 3.5 or 4.0 that I used succesfully with RepG0039 in earlier configuration (I tried quite a lot to get it running...). However, the latest config I have testet was RepG0040 and firmware 4.0 (with SF-50).

At my workplace I have another TOM (from Dec.2011, with MK7 and the newer Steppers). It runs fine up to about 120 mm/s (RepG0039, and 4.0 and SF-50). You did really a great job!

So, whats the difference between the two machines? Stepstruder MK6 vs Mk7 and the older Makerbot steppers (0.33 A?) vs the newer from Moons (0.83 A ?). And the nozzle 0.5 mm vs 0.4 mm. Are there any other differences?
I guess no. So I think we should replace the motors by the newer ones.
3.2, 3.3, 3.4, 3.5, 4.0, and 4.1 are all Sailfish. It's just that with 4.0 we changed the name from "Jetty Firmware" to "Sailfish". There are, however, significant changes between 3.5 and 4.0. First and foremost is that 4.0 expects SF-50. Indeed, it basically requires SF-50. While you can make it work with SF-35, it's not easy and you're in uncharted waters. 4.0 also introduced a lot of code re-work to make the stepper interrupt faster and to introduce the new accelerated move command. The accelerated move command is why "RepG 39 - Sailfish" or "RepG 40" is *required*. (You can also use "RepG 40 - Sailfish".) If you use any earlier version of RepG you will get unaccelerated move commands which Sailfish will execute unaccelerated. But if they are *fast* moves, then you will see problems. You will have similar problems if you do not use the correct machine type in RepG: RepG will then not use the correct driver and will generate unaccelerted moves. Again, if they are fast moves then you will see problems. This is why you *must* use a machine type with "Sailfish" in the name. (Actually, you must use a machine definition which has driver="makerbot4gsailfish" -- that's the underlying concern.) And if given a choice of outputting s3g vs. x3g (RepG 40), you must choose x3g.
Ouch! I love the work- and 140mm/s is amazing to see in action... and I'm curious to learn more about what kind of feedback the firmware is using... BUT, when I cancel a print (or pause) with 7.0, my HBP tries to exit the bottom of the bot... rather noisily, too, I might add. So, what am I missing??
Found it- I failed to reset factory defaults to get the EEPROM back to sanity... tool offsets and homing were the culprits.
(it *was* after all in the installation manual!)
This is wonderful, thanks for your work on this!
Hey, in RepG 40 r003, the extruder hold isn't an option anymore, compared to r002, is there something else instead of that option?
I just downloaded RepG 40 - Sailfish r003 for the Mac and Extruder Hold is still there.  It's on the "misc" tab, left hand column, under "platform preheat & override temperture".  You will only see it if your machine definition is for "makerbot4gsailfish" and the bot reports a firmware of 4.0 or later.

Since I built those RepG 40 - Sailfish packages, I'm confident that they are all the same source.  The Windows and Linux versions should be no different.
Okay, solved most of my problems but 040 r003 is a weird fish for me still.

But my initiate problem if r002 is still avalible still stands seeing that i was looking for another older version aswell the other day.
Well, see thats real funny because i still get the sailfish created stuff in 39. But i deleted 040 r002 which were a good copy by mistake. And in there it worked flawlessly. But with 040 r003, i have trouble homing, with python, and the misc tab. So i was wondering if you kept 040 r002 up for download somewhere i havn't seen yet.
Just tried the firmware on my ToM.
interface is extremely slow (serveral seconds per keypress),
ReplicatorG can connect after PC reboot but doesn't find toolhead.
Lots of timeout messages.

marcuswolschon.blogspot.de/2012/11/thing-o-matic-upgrade-to-sailfishjetty.html
Brilliant firmware, cudos!

But now i can't print from SD. In ReplicatorG it just says "Select the .s3g file to build:" Realizing that's the wrong format i went searching. 

Then i found this bit on the Google forums: "...make sure to select 'x3g' from the drop down file extension selector."

Which leads me to what drop down file extension selector, please tell me i'm a fool by now, and quickly please :)

Keep up the good work.
If you use a version of RepG which gives you a choice of file types in a drop down list near the bottom of the file menu, then select .x3g.  Otherwise, use .s3g.  The bot itself doesn't care, as long as the file extension is .x3g or .s3g.  However, MBI was concerned that the new accelerated move command would cause problems for users so in RepG 40 they made it such that you have to select .x3g in order for *RepG* to write out a file using the new move command.

So, to repeat: if RepG gives you a choice of .x3g or .s3g, then select .x3g.  Otherwise (RepG 39 and earlier), use .s3g.
Well re-reading my initial post, i found that i made several mistakes. Mostly just not explaining my usages of Sailfish and RepG.

I've built my own version of a reprap with makerbot electronics, mostly for the sack of using Jetty firmware actually (read: brownie points).

I'm on ToM electronics, running sailfish in RepG 40 seeing that 39 wouldnt update my extruder for som reason.

I have no dropdown menu that i'm aware of and i made a .s3g and a .x3g file, put it on an SD card and now nothing shows up actually. So maybe the problem is another place aswell. Been debugging for a while because my X-axis skips steps running sailfish so though i would give SD card a try again, just to find another problem.

Thanks for the help so far and in advance.
If you are using RepG 40 and have the correct Machine Type selected (one who's driver is "makerbot4gsailfish" as seen in Machine > Machine Information in RepG), then when you "Build to file", the file window which shows up gives you a choice of two output formats: .s3g and .x3g.  You want .x3g (since you're using RepG 40).

Note that the file must be in the top level directory on the SD card.  Subdirectories are not supported.  And the SD card MUST be formatted as FAT16.  (If it's >2GB, your operating system will likely try to format it as something other than FAT16.)
Okay, thanks a bunch. Been through the mill and around and around the hill.

Same story though, so i suspect that it's the SD card reader.

Thanks for verifying my steps with me. 

And please know that your firmware is superb, be proud.

Best regards from Denmark
It looks like Miracle Grue is not present in the Gcode Generators list in this version of RepG 40. Is that intentional? Where is the source repo for this version of repg...I can have a look myself if that's easiest.

Thank you.
You mention several times that porting Sailfish to other controllers is possible. I would like to look at the source code and consider the feasibility of doing this. However, I have searched in vain for the Sailfish source code. Could you be so kind as to point me to the directory from the archive that contains it?

Thank you. 
This might be a better starting place: https://github.com/jetty840/Sailfish-G3Firmware/tree/master/firmware

The reason is that the G3Firmware is probably closer to RepRap than the Mightyboard one and is more featured.

Also, if you go ahead with that, PM us and get in the loop, cos we can likely save you a few hours on certain things.
Perhaps helpful to explain each of the attachments, here in the Thingiverse instructions?  Bit confusing to see both v39 and v40 downloads...
jetty - in reply to gth
Not really too much to explain.  If you prefer to use v39 RepG, download that one, if you prefer to use v40 RepG, download that.

Generally later release tend not to have all the bugs ironed out.  RepG40 is new, lots of people are using RepG39.
 Does your version of v40 have the offsets issue on the rep1 corrected?
Is SailFish an upgrade over Makerware 1.0.2.22 with v6.2 of the firmware for use on a Replicator 1?
Sailfish is bot firmware.  MakerWare is desktop slicing and bot control firmware.  They are two entirely different things.
Thus Sailfish is an alternative firmware for the firmware in your Replicator 1.
I was having no end of trouble with v5.5 on my Replicator, uploaded this to my Bot, followed the recommended settings and now I'm printing at 120mm/s.  Thanks jetty!
Please support RAMPS!
Can I use this with Ultimaker
No.  You would have to port it to support the Ultimaker electronics -- the different I/O ports for the stepper drivers, temp. sensors, etc.
I've been following the Jetty firmware for a while but have been skeptical to do this upgrade until now. All I can say is wow! Thank you Jetty. This has been the best upgrade since i've had my TOM for over 2 years. I've only used all your settings mentioned in the instructions and now the printer prints fast and beautiful.  I've had offset problems w/ makerbot oem firmware and i've always thought i needed to tweak the belts more or try to make the x,y stage smoother, but w/out doing any of that, this firmware alone does the job. Thanks again!
The requirements document lists MK6+ extruder as the minimum.
I have the MK6 extruder.
Will that be a problem?
It must be a stepper-motor driven extruder.  So as long as it's a Stepstruder Mk6 you should be okay.
Has the extruder controller firmware been modified by the Sailfish upgrade, or can a Thing-O-Matic owner skip the EC update if they already have up-to-date stock firmware on their extruder?
Just to be clear: Sailfish is the firmware for the Motherboard v2.4 (or 2.5 if you happened to recently replace yours).  The Extruder Controller is a separate board with separate firmware.  As such, Sailfish itself does not modify the firmware on the Extruder Controller board. 

Sailfish requires the 3.1 Extruder Controller firmware.  There has been no later release of the EC firmware.
Thanks. I wasn't sure. When I installed the firmware, my extruder didn't work properly. I had to revert back to the earlier Jetty version. I was troubleshooting when I saw the mention that Thing-O-Matic users needed to update their EC Firmware (my v3.6 EC board is already at v3.1 firmware) and I thought that might have been the reason. I must be doing something ELSE wrong.
Did you invert the A axis via RepG's Machine > Onboard Preferences?  (That's the first extruder axis).  What you need to do is invert it from how it was set for Jetty 3.5. So if it wasn't inverted, then invert it.  If it was inverted, then un-invert it.
Hmmmm... I"ll try it again. Thanks!
I really like this firmware. Generally faster and higher quality prints, and made my replicator 1 run quieter.

However, I am having a strange issue. When I change some models in RepG (scale, center, etc.) they print as they were originally loaded instead of how they were changed. Is there any way to fix this?
Nevermind, I feel silly, the issue was caused by loading STLs directly from the web browser and then being unable to save the file when generating gcode. Saving a local copy first fixed the problem.

Awesome firmware!
Hats off! thank you for your hard work.
I do have a question though:
I am using the sailfish variant of the" Thing-o-matic w/ hbp and stepstruder mk7"

Everything seems to be working very impressive with the exception of the build being centered. 
It is centered in repg 39 sailfish, but not on platform.
My setup is a stock thingomatic .

Any suggestions??

Connect to the bot via USB from RepG 39 - Sailfish.  Then, from Machine > Onboard Preferences, ensure that the Toolcount is set to 1 (unless you have two extruders).  And make sure that the toolhead offsets are 0.  Your EEPROM may have had other, random values for some of those.
I found the toolcount, it had no selection, i set it to 1 as u suggested.
However i am having trouble finding toolhead offset. What tab would that be under?
Thanks for your help!
A and B home offsets on the homing tab.
Gotcha, both of those values are 0. Still does it. It seems like the calibration script is messed up. The values it gives me after calibration are off. When i set them manually in on board prefs it fixes it.
Any thoughts?
Perfect!
I can't tell u how impressed I am with this firmware.
Thank you for all of your hard work. It is truly appreciated.
The scripts built into RepG will not work correctly.  They lack a necessary "M73 P0" command at their start.  The script built into the bot and accessible if you have a Gen 4 LCD interface will work correctly.  Alternatively,  when you get the gcode for the script in RepG, edit it to have the line "M73 P0" at the start (or at least before the "M18" command).  Then send that to the bot and things should work better.
I'm having a HECK of a time getting SailFish working both quickly and accurately on my Replicator 1

replicator.xml is unmodified 

Onboard preferences:

Acceleration ("Fine Quality") no other changes
Acceleration (misc)
* override off
* preheat on pause on
* Slow when falls behind on
* JKN advance K=0.005
* JKN advance K2=0.055
* Deprime right + left is 16

*) Using print-o-matic 
** Layer height .20mm
** Infill 20%** Feed 80
** Moves 100
** Temperature 230
** Bed temp 110
** Filament diameter 1.80 (measured from actual)

*) Extruder stepper "ticks" and skips steps*) With reversal disabled in Dimension, and deprime (16 steps) enabled
*) Extrusion of filament delayed by 1-2cm .. leaving big blank "holes"

Pics at:

picpaste.com/00IjTMT3.JPG

picpaste.com/IMG_3350-B55lJMTZ.JPG

picpaste.com/4cf1decd8455378544dc7062a075dee2.JPG
Looks like you need to relevel your build platform.  The first picture looks like the extruder nozzle is too close to the platform and as a result the nozzle cannot extrude plastic.  That's consistent with the extruder making ticking sounds and the blank holes.

Also, you will likely be better served using the makerbot-operators group or the jetty-firmware group to assist in diagnosing this.  Comments here really are not a viable vehicle for doing support, especially given that Thingiverse has been down off and on recently, and for the past month or so has reportedly not been good about sending Thing authors notices about updates to comments.  (I.e., Jetty may not be aware that new comments are being posted without having to proactively look for new comments.)
The build platform is not only level, it's well trammed to within 0.05mm tested via dial indicator.

I have verified that the tip is 200 microns above the build surface at top right to 225 microns on bottom left with the platform at 110C.
Is the ditto process documented anywhere?  Does it work from within RepG?  I can't figure out how to use it.
Yeah it would help if you made the group public read, even if private post.  We can't see the answer without registering for the group.
Any tips on getting things back to regular stock firmware?
Any progress on the 3D 5G shield Cupcake version? It didn't show up last time it tried to install in the options...
Still being worked on.  Some folks are successfully using it. However, RepG 39 + SF 50 + Vol 5D creates an annoying situation for 3mm extruders.  We are putting a workaround for that in the firmware and will have a few people test it in a day or so.  I'm hoping that in another week or so we'll be ready for a non-beta Cupcake release.
Also, the last few steps of setup tell me to set Deprime to 16. Why would I reset it again to 0 before printing "MadeByASailfish"?
This is a dumb question, but I've been struggling to get this working, so.. 

People keep telling me to make sure I'm using RepG-39 Sailfish.

The ReplicatorG I download from this page doesn't say sailfish anywhere (replicatorg-0039-mac-r647.dmg, which installs as "ReplicatorG"). I've uninstalled both ReplicatorG and MakerWare before installing this- Am I somehow using the wrong version?
I installed the new firmware on my mendal with gen 4 electronics. things work like they are suposed to , but I need to change the mm/second rates for my machine. the z hight is way off do to the threded rod. Im useing the Thingomatic with HBP And MK7 profile. How do I change the mm/ second. On the old Replicator G you could go in and change these settings under machine types.
You'll need to start using RepG 39 - Sailfish.  That means making a machine definition (xml) file for your bot for RepG.  RepG takes information from that definition and transmits it over USB to the firmware which then stores it in EEPROM.  For example, the max feed rates per axis and the axes lengths.

You will need to make your own xml file and park it in ~/.replicatorg/machines/ .  You can copy the thingomatic-sailfish.xml one from RepG.  Then edit the file, removing all the machines but one and change it's name to be something more appropriate.  Then change the information for the axes you need to change.
Argh. Before installing this, my left extruder was printing about 20mm to the left. Now it's about 50mm high and 20mm to the right. What gives?
The jerking around indicates that either

1. You're not using RepG 39 - Sailfish, or
2. You're using old s3g files which were not produced by RepG 39 - Sailfish.

You *must* use RepG 39 - Sailfish.  It produces the correct motion commands.  The oldstyle motion commands are run without accelertion.  So, if they are at high speed, things will indeed jerk around.

RepG 39 - Sailfish is one of the downloads for this Thing.  Ensure that you are using it.

MBI posted on the makerbot-operators group that they will support Sailfish so use of a custom RepG is short term.
Followed the instructions to a T. Not sure if being on a mac would put me at a disadvantage somehow.
Since this is a Replicator, you did enable acceleration via Onboard Preferences?  For Replicators it's disabled by default.  We were following MBI's lead there.  However, from looking at their latest in github, they've now switched to enabling it on by default.

Mac's not a problem.  Jetty and I are bot Mac users and do nearly all of our development work on Macs.

If you do a EEPROM reset (which some folks have had to do), screen snapshot the first two tabs from Onboard Preferences (Command-shift-4 on a Mac).
All better, thanks again for the replies. It's even centered itself again somehow. The tutorial says to Disable Acceleration, should it say Enabled? Going back and disabling it, it's jerking itself off the table again.
Tutorial?  You want acceleration enabled for printing at high speeds.  If you disable acceleration BUT then try to print something sliced at fast feedrates, then yes the bot will shake and jerk a lot.  So try not to do that, eh?  Or if you do disable acceleration, then only print things sliced at tame (slow) feedrates.
At some point MBI changed how tool head offsets are stored.  Before they included the 33 mm distance along the X axis between the two extruder nozzles.  Now they are just the deviation from dx=33, dy=0, and dz=0.  So, you need to alter your toolhead offsets to conform to MBI's new model.  Do this with RepG's Machine > Onboard Preferences.  I believe it's the second tab.
Tried again this morning, still not sure what's going on.. Figured since I installed MakerWare when it first came out, poked around and uninstalled, that I'd need to reinstall it and follow that 'stop conveyor' step, but it didn't seem to make a difference. Still jerky, off center, and the center point even seems to have moved between the first and second layer. Strange.

dropbox.com/s/kmx766998t05276/2012-10-28%2011.17.10.jpg
This may be a stupid question, but is this possible to run on the printrbot, will I have issues?  I know the printrboard can be flashed, but I'm not sure how the coding would affect the bot.  IE is this firmware only configured for the Replicator?
This firmware is only for RepRap Gen 3 (rrmbv12), RepRap Gen 4, and MBI MightyBoard RevE electronics.  It would need to be ported to work on PRINTRBOARD electronics.
OK.  I couldn't get anyone to comment on how to fix the left extruder offset so I did some quick digging.  For some reason when the Dual_Head_start.gcode gets merged in the tool offset lines get changed from
G10 P1 X0 Y0 Z-0.3 (Designate T0 Offset)
G10 P2 X33 Y0 Z-0.3 (Designate T1 Offset)
to
G10 P1 X16.5 Y0 Z-0.3 (Designate T0 Offset)
G10 P2 X-16.5 Y0 Z-0.3 (Designate T1 Offset)

Looks like somebody assumed the Replicator 1 extruder center location was in between both extruders when the machine seems to actually center on the right extruder.  Actually it looks like the -16.5 makes the left tool offset problem 49.5mm too far to the left and the right extruder 16.5mm too far to the right of where they should be.

Can someone please fix this so I don't have to keep hand editing?
MBI some time back changed this.  Used to be that the toolhead offsets were the actual distances between the two extruder orifices.  However, at some point *MBI* changed the system so that the toolhead offsets are the deviations from the ideal offsets of x=33mm and y=0mm.  At the same time, they changed RepG's dualstrusion to automatically include a 33mm offset in the gcode.

So, at some point Replicator owners were expected, when upgrading their MBI firmware to subtract out of their toolhead x offset, 33 mm.

And yes, the system now assumes a center point between the two extruders.
Thanks for the feedback.  I am still not sure where to go from here.  What do I need to do to correct this?  If I manually put in the same lines that the Dual_Head_start.gcode has:
G10 P1 X0 Y0 Z-0.3 (Designate T0 Offset)
G10 P2 X33 Y0 Z-0.3 (Designate T1 Offset) in the finished gcode then everything works as expected.  How do I get the software to end up producing that automatically? 

It doesn't even look like the Dual_Head_start.gcode is the file being merged, because nothing else in the finished gcode matches up with the  Dual_Head_start.gcode file.  Maybe this is the root of the problem?

Thanks for any help.
If using Print-o-Matic, then click the "use default start/end gcode" button.  Otherwise, you need to determine which of several routes you used to supply your own start/end gcode (alteration plugin, ~/.replicatorg/sf_xx_profiles/alteration/ directory, editing the RepG supplied files directly, etc.).
 I think I got it straightened out.  I had to go into the registry (HKEY_USERS...SoftwareJavaSoftPrefsreplicatorgapp ) and remove leftovers from ReplicatorG-37.  I might have been able to do the same from ReplicatorG File->Reset all preferences?

At any rate that seems to have cleared whatever was causing it to point to the wrong gcode start file. 

It also wiped out all my other settings and preferences so if you do this make a note of all your settings!
Fantastic! That fix it for me too! Thanks a lot!
Just updated my Replicator1 to Sailfish v6.2 and so far the results have been excellent.
Thanks for all your hard work Jetty !
So I'm butchering my Ultimaker to get rid of the belts, which means the pitch will be different. I noticed Sailfish doesn't support UM. any chance it will soon?
Hey DanLuc, what are you planning to install instead of the belts? I'm quite curious as I wanted to improve the transmission too
Ball screw drive system. Similar setup as the makerbot, one side ball screw and other smooth shaft. They can travel way fast and very precise while having almost no resistance.
Problem is that I get 1/4" linear travel per screw rotation. And I wanted to couple the motor directly to he shaft. Might have to make a pulley for the motor and hook up a little belt to get the same rotation to linear travel. Unless I can find a software thats decent enough to print in comparison to Cura which is really great so far.
In addition to the 33mm offset problem with the left extruder on my Replicator 1,  I have also noticed that since I switched to using AltShell the time estimates are way off.  For example, a 30min estimate will actually take 55mins.  Before switching to using AltShell the estimate was only a few minutes off.  Does the estimator take into account time "lost" by AltShell turning off acceleration for the shell?  Or is something else going on?
The estimator does not work at all with acceleration.
It's not worked with acceleration for quite some time. Most of my prints I just assume it is going to take 20 minutes longer than the estimator says it will.

I hope it is something that someday will be fixed.
Here's the problem: an estimator needs

  (gcode + max feed rates) OR (s3g)

AND

  (acceleration parameters from the bot)

So, estimating the time on the bot with the s3g file on SD card can be made to work but is SLOW.  (Recall that it wasn't all that fast for large prints with the unaccelerated Jetty Firmware.)

To do this in RepG, you would need to either manually tell RepG the acceleration parameters or have RepG connect to the bot and pull the information from the bot's EEPROM over the serial link.

As to actual code to do estimation, we've had that for some time.  (I use it all the time to analyze issues with the Jetty fw and Sailfish.)  It's the simulator which is 95% the firmware source and 5% some code to parse an on disk s3g file and provide a CLI (command line interface).  It then gets compiled for a desktop OS and can be run from the command line.

Since the fw is in C and C++, this estimator is as well.  Integrating it with RepG is not straightforward as RepG is in Java.  It would actually be easier to integrate with MakerWare since MW is in C++.

It is pretty easy to make available a Linux and Mac OS executable which could be given on a command line the s3g file and the acceleration parameters.  Indeed, the fw repo has a Makefile to build the tool and, as I mentioned before, I use it all the time.  However, I'm unsure of just how many people would actually want to use it given it's command line nature.  (And I'm not myself interested in making a GUI version.)
Just uploaded my Yoda printed on a TOM mk6 extruder. 100mm tall.
0 fill, 0.2 Layer Height !! 2 shells
and at 60mm/s feed and 80mm/s travel!!
It took and hour and a half. Oh and PLA too.
Thanks Jetty :)
My Replicator 1 is running great at 120mm/s with this firmware. 

My only real issue so far is that the left nozzle offset seems to be ignored.  When I print things with the left extruder they are 33mm too far to the left.  What am I missing? 

Thanks again for helping me get my Replicator 1 working closer to what I had expected when I bought it.
I haven't tried Sailfish yet, butu I'm having this same issue with my standard stock Replicator firmware since upgrading to 6.0. Figured it might be worth mentioning while you folks troubleshoot.. 
I have the exact same issue... and I am also interested in a solution.
I am running a thing o matic with a mk6+ extruder, and a heated build platform.  I have done the firmware updates and installed the new repg29 sailfish.  Under the Machine Type Driver there is no sailfish option for a mk6 extruder.  The only options are:

Volumetric
Accelerated Volumetric
Accelerated
and one that doesn't have anything behind it. 

Thanks in advance for your help.
You can use a Thing-o-Matic w/ HBP MK7 (Sailfish).  There's not difference (that matters).  Also, consider joining the jetty-firmware mailing list at google groups as we posted the definitions for said machine there just yesterday.  (However, you don't really need them.)
Any chance you can post this somewhere other than Thingiverse? Some people would like to try it on RAMPS based 3D printers, and companies can't help with that so long as this is only available via Thingiverse. 
The firmware runs on RepRap Gen 3, Gen 4 electronics and MBI's MightyBoard 1.5e.  It doesn't run on modern RAMPS.  However, it's available at github.  See github.com/jetty840/ for the various Repos.
Remarkable. Thank you so much.

Accelerated prints at 120mm/s show no ringing at all. MBI v6.0 at 80mm/s showed quite a bit of ringing.
I just finished repairing and adding some upgrade parts to a client's Thing-o-Matic.  Prints were still lackluster.  
Then I upgraded it to Sailfish.  I had no idea a TOM could print so fast or so well.  Amazing difference.  Thanks for your hard work!
Added this to my TOM last night and I believe that what has been done is as good as home 3d printing can get. There have been times when I have seen other's prints and thought: my printer should be able to do this or print this well, but it won't--now it can and it does. Thank you.
WOW! Thank you so much for your hard work on this. My replicator is a completely new machine, I can not thank you enough!
If you don't mind me asking, what's so different about it? I haven't made the plunge yet on my Rep 1, I just can't seem to wrap my head around the benefits.
 I highly recommend the upgrade. If not for the faster prints, then at least to relieve your machine of the stress it puts on its self.
That's awesome! Can't wait. Thanks for the replies.
 Its the way the printer head moves. Instead of going full speed the the edge of a print and then turning around suddenly, essentially slamming itself in reverse, the head decelerates to the edge of the print, then re-accelerates, all very fast of course. The result is a much much smoother action, which produces higher quality prints, faster and quieter.
Well, it can print at 0.01mm layer heights at 120mm/s with 200mm/s travel rate, and it's probably 10-15 decibels quieter to boot. And, the print quality is so much better than the stock firmware with acceleration turned on. It really is like a completely different machine.
Hi

thanks for the new firmware, it looks really nice!I have a replicator and was trying to upload the new firmware, but the mightyboard does not show up as an option. If I change the URL back to the original mb site, it does show up. please help!Im running mac btw. 
Also, can you still use maker ware with this firmware or do you have to  roll back to the previous version?Thanks again!
1. As noted, Sailfish for the Replicator 1 was temp. unavailable on 17 October.  With the assistance of some field testers, the leveling script issue was resolved and new version became available that evening.  So repoint your download URL at the sailfish site (http://jettyfirmware.yolasite.com/resources/release/firmware.xml) and you should be good to go.

2. You can generate gcode for Sailfish in MakerWare.  HOWEVER, you need to then save that gcode to a file and have ReplicatorG 39 - Sailfish open the file and generate the s3g file (SD card) or send the commands over USB to the Replicator equipped with Sailfish.   Since Makerbot is adopting the new motion commands that Sailfish is using (and RepG 39 - Sailfish generates), we expect to see a release of MakerWare which will support Sailfish.  (Keep in mind also that MakerWare is still in beta.)
3. If you generate gcode in MakerWare and then import it into RepG, be sure to put

M103
M73 P0

at the top of the gcode (or at least before the first homing, motion, or positioning commands). The "M73 P0" is quite important as it results in a "build start" command being sent to the bot and the bot reacts by initializing its build state.
The Replicator 1 version of the Sailfish firmware has temporarily been withdrawn pending resolution of the leveling script issue
A new build which resolves the leveling script issue was posted around 8 PM Pacific Time on Wednesday, 17 October 2012.
I've noticed that the Pause function in the LCD resumes with a 2mm Y-axis offset about 50% of the time, ruining the build. :(
Solved! My Y-axis offset was off by 2mm, causing the extruder carriage to hit the stop at the back of the machine when there was still movement to be made.  When I resumed the print, the extruder would travel back to the printing item but would be in the wrong place by the same amount of movement it wasn't able to make during the pause phase.  I increased by Y-axis offset by 2.5mm in the Utilities menu on the Rep1 and it's fixed.
1. If this is on a Replicator, then ensure that you've upgraded to build r650 of the Sailfish firmware for the Replicator.

2. Make sure that your gcode starts with a "M103" and "M73 P0".  That's a requirement (and done by the default start gcode).
Sorry I just have to comment again, my prints have been STUPID AMAZING since I used this firmware, I seriously can't believe how much of an improvement there has been, a huge thank you for your effort!
Does anyone know why when i try to upgrade my firmware though replicatorG sailfish 0039 does the mightyboard not show up?
I have a dual replication1 and i only see 3 boards listed
That was the temporary withdrawal of the Replicator version. (Which you since discovered; I'm just replying here for the benefit of others.)  A new version has been posted.
Wow - what a difference.  The acceleration makes the movements so smooth - undoubtedly extending the life of my Replicator1.  It's fast, smooth, quiet and produces great results.  Thanks for all the hard work Jetty!

So awesome on my rep1!! Please add a flattr button here if you have an account!
The best TOM firmware!!!  Thank you very much.  My TOM finally prints what I ask for.
This has really improved my prints and REALLY quieted down my printer, I almost have to check on it to see if its STILL printing! Used to I could hear it form the other side of the house, now its all quiet and FAST! Thanks again! Great Work!!!!!
You are a genius Jetty! My ToM has never been better! This should be on all ToM's. I'd be happy to donate to the cause. Do you accept paypal donations? 
Thank you.  Installation was a snap and the documentation is great.  My Replicator v1 just purrrrs now!
Thank you for releasing this under a Free Software license. :)
First off a big thank you to Jetty and team for this firmware. I have installed it on my Rep1 and impressed so far with results. Like Harlock I printed off the calibration cube after slicing it with 0 and 1 shell. These were both 0.1mm 100% infill at 60/80 feedrates. Don't seem to be able to attach the pic of these here but the one with 0 shells and slightly faster made a perfect 10mm high cube. The other was a little higher. Neither cube is 20x20mm though - more like 20.3 x 20.2mm. I would like to get the StepsPerMM setting right but confused as to how to do this?

Also, my extrusion def needs tweaking. Lines across the bed seem worse than lines down the bed (not sure what axes these are - i would call them X and Y). The top of the cube is dimpled and each side of the cube has a slightly different line pattern.

I posted a comment on the Support forum so maybe others can comment.
To calibrate your cube dimensions, you tweak the stepspermm in the .xml file.  But, everytime you upgrade RepG your tweaks will get lost if you edit the distributed xml file.  So, what you want to do is to make your own copy of the file.  The directions below are for a Mac but are largely applicable to Linux as well.  I'm not a Windows user so the file locations won't be correct for Windows.

1. Open a terminal window (Applications > Utilities > Terminal).  You can do this from the finder as well, but you then need to right click on Applications / ReplicatorG.app to get the finder to let you drill down into the contents of that otherwise hidden folder.

2. From the terminal window, issue the two commands shown below.  The first command may give you a warning indicating that the directory already exists.  That's okay.

% mkdir -p ~/.replicatorg/machines/
% cp /Applications/ReplicatorG.app/Contents/Resources/machines/replicator.xml ~/.replicatorg/machines/

3. Using a text editor, edit the file ~/.replicatorg/machines/replicator.xml.  You want to end up with just one machine definition which looks like that below.  Note the name change from "The Replicator Dual" to "The Replicator Dual (Private)".  Use whatever name you want; just something different than the standard names.  Save the file and then start (or restart) RepG.  You should see this new name appear under Machine > Machine Type (Driver).  If it does not show up, then there's probably a typo in the file which makes it syntactically invalid XML.


<machines>
  <machine experimental="0">
    <name>The Replicator Dual (Private)</name>
    <geometry type="cartesian">
     
      <axis endstops="max" homingfeedrate="2500" id="x" length="227" maxfeedrate="18000" stepspermm="94.139704">  
      <axis endstops="max" homingfeedrate="2500" id="y" length="148" maxfeedrate="18000" stepspermm="94.139704">  
      <axis endstops="min" homingfeedrate="1100" id="z" length="150" maxfeedrate="1170" stepspermm="400">
      <axis endstops="none" id="a" length="100000" maxfeedrate="1600" stepspermm="96.275201870333662468889989185642">
      <axis endstops="none" id="b" length="100000" maxfeedrate="1600" stepspermm="96.275201870333662468889989185642">
    </axis></axis></axis></axis></axis></geometry>
    <tools>
      <tool default_rpm="3" diameter="0.4" fan="true" heater="true" index="1" model="Mk8" motor="true" motor_steps="3200" name="Mk8 Left" stepper_axis="b" type="extruder"  heatedplatform="false">
      <tool default_rpm="3" diameter="0.4" fan="true" heatedplatform="true" heater="true" index="0" model="Mk8" motor="true" motor_steps="3200" name="Mk8 Right" stepper_axis="a" type="extruder">
    </tool></tool></tools>
    <wipes>
      <wipe index="0" purge_duration="1000" purge_rpm="5.0" reverse_duration="15" reverse_rpm="35.0" wait="1000.0" x1="-135.0" x2="-135.0" y1="55.0" y2="45.0">
      <wipe index="1" purge_duration="1000" purge_rpm="5.0" reverse_duration="15" reverse_rpm="35.0" wait="1000.0" x1="-135.0" x2="-135.0" y1="55.0" y2="45.0">
  </wipe></wipe></wipes>
  <offsets>
    <offset xnozzle="33.0" ynozzle="0.0" znozzle="0.0">
  </offset></offsets>
  <clamps></clamps>
  <driver name="mightyboard">
   
    <rate>115200</rate>
  </driver>
  <warmup>
  </warmup>
  <cooldown>
    M18 (Turn off steppers after a build.)
  </cooldown>
  <bookend dualstart="machines/replicator/Dualstrusion_start.gcode" end="machines/replicator/end.gcode" start="machines/replicator/Dual_Head_start.gcode">
  </bookend></machine>
</machines>

4. Now that you have your own machine definition, you can edit the stepspermm for the X and Y axis.  If you increase the value, then the bot will execute more steps to move a fixed distance.  Decreasing the value causes the bot to execute fewer steps for a fixed distance.  But what to change it to?  If the distance should be D but you measure a distance d then multiply the current stepspermm by the ratio D/d.  If d > D, then the ratio will be less than 1 and you will decrease the stepspermm causing the bot to take fewer steps.  Similarly, if d < D, then the ratio will be larger than 1 and you will increase the stepspermm.  After editing the xml file to change the stepspermm, you must exit ReplicatorG and restart it.  (ReplicatorG only reads the xml files when it launches.)  You do not need to regenerate the gcode.  You only need to resend the gcode to the bot.  After printing again, measure the new resulting distance d (e.g., width, height, or length) and recalculate D/d.  After a couple of iterations, you should have the stepspermm values dialed in fairly well.
Updated my REP dual this morning with Sailfish and OMG.

for starters .. my REP doesn't  sound like a plotter from the 80's anymore. Is quite literally flies along.

All the problems I encountered with the 6.0 firmware are resolved.

The instillation guide is easy to follow and the setup guide was both helpful and self explanatory. Ill be refining the acc parameters for the rest of the day. So far Im as excited with this as I was when my Makerbot arrived!!!!

Thanks Jetty you made my day!!
Hi! 
I have a ToM MK6, and can't find the selection for sailfish under machine type.

I can see sailfish options for mk7 and cupcake though. Any ideas?
There isn't a definition for ToM mk6, but it is the same as the mk7 because they use the same motor and toothed pulley. The only difference would be the default RPM, which I believe is only used by the control panel in repg.
You can use "ToM w/HBP MK7 (Sailfish)"
make sure you change the firmware location (step before that one) or it will just pull firmware from default location
Looks very promising! The Replicator is much more quiet and shakes even much less than the 5.5 accelerated settings. Few issues I've noted:
- For Replicator users with dual extruders, make screen shots of every Onboard preferences prior to upgrading the firmware. The new firmware tends to wipe lots of parameters and I didn't notice any specific instructions toward this beside writing down the accel parameters.
- I have dual extruder and the X offset for the Left extruder/B axis isn't applied. The setting is correct as I took screenshots of the 5.5 defaults prior to upgrade.
- Extruders temp are locked to 220degC even if the Print-O-Matic and GCode sets them to 230degC. There might be a relation with the preheating function from the LCD panel.
- In Machine/Onboard preferences/Endstops tab/Invert endstops, the original firmware called for Inverted setting. Now this firmware doesn't accept it: I can set it & commit, reboot the machine, but it defaults back to no end stops.
- I've lowered the max speed change for XY to 10mm/s. Makes the machine even more smooth in its operation, maybe detrimental to the actual speed performance but that's my compromise for now :)
- I'd really like more info on the calibration. The instructions suggest to bypass Print-o-matic, but it's the only way I know for now :/ Could we get a link for the howto on manual gcode generation in the calibration instruction (including setting width/thickness ratio)? My test cubes unaccelerated are domed at the top (11.58mm high), suggesting too much ABS being fed. On the other hand, the accelerated version is much better with a slight dome giving a cube of 10.51mm high.
Jetty or Dan could probably answer these better, but they are no doubt very busy at the moment, so I will answer what I can from my experience...

- Extruders temp are locked to 220degC even if the Print-O-Matic and GCode sets them to 230degC. There might be a relation with the preheating function from the LCD panel.

This is by design... there is an option to override gcode temp which allows you to control/tune your temp settings from the LCD without having to reslice your print every time (its very nice)... and yes, what it does is use whatever you have set for your preheat temp as the temp you want for printing.
- In Machine/Onboard preferences/Endstops tab/Invert endstops, the original firmware called for Inverted setting. Now this firmware doesn't accept it: I can set it & commit, reboot the machine, but it defaults back to no end stops.

From talking with Jetty, this is ignored and so there is no need to worry about it, from what I can tell its because it has manual switches that are going to work no matter what the gcode or firmware tells it to do.
- I've lowered the max speed change for XY to 10mm/s. Makes the machine even more smooth in its operation, maybe detrimental to the actual speed performance but that's my compromise for now :)

Before changing anything, you might want to give the defaults for "fine" a try. Make sure you use the defaults for printing as well (120mm/s) ... from my testing the Sailfish firmware is actually BETTER at faster speeds than at slower ones but YRMV
- I'd really like more info on the calibration. The instructions suggest to bypass Print-o-matic, but it's the only way I know for now :/ Could we get a link for the howto on manual gcode generation in the calibration instruction (including setting width/thickness ratio)? My test cubes unaccelerated are domed at the top (11.58mm high), suggesting too much ABS being fed. On the other hand, the accelerated version is much better with a slight dome giving a cube of 10.51mm high.

actually Print-O-Matic works great... I think the setup is more geared for ToM than Rep1... but again, Jetty or Dan would know better. You can find tuning info here http://wiki.makerbot.com/jetty-firmware-tuning-acceleration 

If you have too much being fed, for a temp fix you can raise the filament diameter in PoM and that will cause less to extrude, or you can tune your machine using the xml files... here is a quote from a post from Dan and Jetty about how to do it...

"What I'm doing on the Replicator which solves the flow/filament 
diameter and negates the need to tune 
when changing filament is: 

1. Measure the filament diameter and punch in and generate a 
calibration cube. 

2. Tune the A/B axis in the xml file (A = Left, B = Right).  Increase 
if the flow is too low, 
decrease if it's too high.  I tune in units of 1 and finally 0.5. 

Now you have your pinch gears / extruder flow rate tuned.  When you 
get a new plastic, 
just measure the diameter and punch it into printomatic and you're 
done.  No more flow rate 
tuning. 

(there's a bug in SF50 with hexagon fill, use line fill for the 
purposes of this tuning, 
or you'll think you have the correct 100% fill when you don't). 

Temperature / feed rate are less critical.  But, if I'm printing at 
100-120mm/s 
I'll go 240C for ABS, and 245-250C for 150mm/s.  Failing that, bridge 
tests are 
a good indicator of temperature."

Sorry about the long post... just wanted to try to help if I could =)
Thanks a bunch for the quick and detailed reply. I'll follow up with those recommendations. I still wonder why the dual extruder function doesn't work anymore. I just printed a part with the left extruder and it didn't seem off center. Looks like an issue with the tool change gcode, but more testing is required to confirm this.
I am not sure about the dual extruder because at the moment my left extruder has a bad thermocouple (waiting for parts from MBI).... i highly recommend joining the Jetty user group at https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups#!forum/jetty-firmware ... many answers can be found just by searching the group, and if not most posts are answered very quickly by Dan or Jetty.
 Made the board/firmware hang up while adjusting the extruders temps :/ I'll subscribe to the forum as mentioned above.
Video of my replicator 1 printing at 200mm/s (280mm/s travel)... such a huge improvement .... my Rep1 used to shake like it was going to fall apart if I printed at more than 50mm/s and now it doesn't even bat an eye at 200mm/s. The sound of the fan is louder than most of the printing moves now (as you can hear in the video).
 

youtube.com/watch?v=vKjGGvPiyfk
 
Thank you for such a great upgrade to my printer!
Like it a lot, thanks for the effort!
TOM Mk6 extr.
Any idea where the outline has gone that primes the extruder before hitting the first layer?
That is the "Skirt" option in Skeinforge.

You'll need to go into "Edit Slicing Profiles" menu option, select the profile you are using (you can duplicate it if you want to save the original), then select "Edit...". Once inside the profile, go to the "Skirt" option, and enable it. You'll get the outline back. Press "Save All" at the bottom of the screen, close the profile, select "Done" from the initial dialog, and re-slice your object (be sure to select your edited version, if you duplicated the original and renamed it).

Hope that helps.
 Thanks for the reply. I'll give it a crack tonight. This firmware is extremely good when I compare it to my old prints.
Working great so far....  Thanks for your months of hard work!!  Do you do a Paypal donation?
Having an odd behavior with Sailfish. I printed calibration cubes (derivative:41258) and they came out fine, but then I printed something tricker (derivative:41257) and it has odd ripples. It might have been mechanical vibration. The print head was visibly jerking around as if it was following a sine wave around a circle (like following the moon's orbit around the Sun) rather than following a clean circle. The pattern is consistent the whole way up the sites. and all the way around the object. The ripples are on both the inside and outside, evenly spaced all the way around the object (which is circular). The Gcode (as viewed in Pleasant3D) looks perfectly circular. Any ideas? Since the Gcode is fine, I'm guessing it's not the object or Skeinforge, which leaves either mechanical or firmware. Any ideas?
jetty - in reply to laird
Looking at that file, the surround is made up of lots of little lines.  Those junctions will become more pronounced if you slow down the print speed, or have a less than optimal K / K2.   Try tuning both of those first and printing at 120mm/s
laird - in reply to jetty
Will do, thanks! Funny to think that faster = higher quality. Where's the best explanation of K and K2?
laird - in reply to laird
   Printed at 120 mm/s, and while it's faster, it's still got the same wiggles. They do look like they are related to the line segments.
   The parameters that I've set are:
- Speed/Feed Rate 120 mm/s, Flow Rate 120 mm/s, Travel Feed Rate 200 mm/s, Perimeter Feed Rate Multiplier 0.9, Perimeter Flow Rate Multiplier 0.9.
- Altshell is off.
   Hmm, next I'll try turning Altshell on, and see what happens. I also checked use M320/M3212. If this works, it'll narrow down causes.
laird - in reply to laird
 Printed with altshell on, and the ripples are less pronounced, but they're still there.

Now to read up on tuning K and K2.
Is this something that could work on the Printrbot?
Theoretically it could work on ramps, but it would have to be ported.
This is fantastic!  I cannot be any more impressed by how completely this fixes all my problems.  My replicator now whistles while it works rather than quivering and shaking through the processes!
My poor little cupcake would love this firmware!  I am trying to nurse it through printing itsself a stepper extruder.
Checkout the Jetty Forum
I dont know much about firmwares beside marlin and sprinter, could someone tell me if this would this work on ramps electronics? And what are the advantages of this over marlin?

Thank you.
It could do if ported.  It's faster than Marlin and more accurate.  This firmware is the Marlin Acceleration + a number of bug fixes + replacement algorithms for jerk + a working advance.
And i just found out about github.com/repetier/Repetier-Firmware .... lost in firmwares.
github.com/jetty840/Source of sources...
Still confuced with Sanguino, how to port?
Do I need avr proggammer etc?
Wow! This is truly a bundle of awesomeness.  My replicator1 has never moved as fast, smooth and graceful as it does now.  Hats off to you gentlemen!
 I agree, this is like having a whole new Replicator. By far the most awesome thing I've seen on Thingiverse to date.
I have a cupcake it has the gen 3 electronics and was wondering if sailfish will work on it and if I can get it to work on a rep-rap like the Huxley and will it work with ponterface or repetier or rep-snapper that's
the host software I'm using with my Huxley 
Here's another print I just finished with http://i.imgur.com/Jj2cQ.jpg the green skull was printed with the old Jetty firmware at .30mm layer height and the blue one was just printed this morning with sailfish firmware at .10mm layer height.
are there any videos? The 120mm/sec in the images I find not so impressive, I can do over 200 on an ultimaker if well lubricated
The 'advertised' speed of all of these printers is a pretty worthless metric, what actually matters is the acceleration rates and implementation on the micro-controller. Most microcontollers can easily provide more than enough steps/second, so the maximum speeds are really just based on the length of the movement and the acceleration rates. Print speed is dependent on the toolhead. 
It means little to nothing to compare the rates specified in the slicing program as printer specs.
Agreed, with Sailfish, I've had the X Axis up to 340mm/s, the Y axis upto 300mm/s and the Extruder to 150mm/s.  The extruder is the limitation.  Hoping the kickstarter project with the increased grip will bump the extruder speed.  What we do know however is that the firmware can handle at least up to 340mm/s from a processing perspective and still have a single tone and a responsive UI, so we know there's cycles to spare even at those speeds.  So we should be good for the future.
The impressive thing about the Jetty firmware is that does quite a few amazing things, including print 50% faster than the standard firmware (and 3x faster than the same hardware a year ago) and is purely a software change.
Thanks to everyone involved in this firmware. It has helped me reach a new level of awesome with my Replicator prints!
the pictures of replicator prints are very impressive.
I will have to install this.
the print quality is really paramount to me.
this seems to be a big improvement.
 
Check out the photos I posted below from my Thing-O-Matic. I'm completely blown away with how much better my prints are coming out.
I'm blown away!  Here's another example of the excellent results you can get with this new firmware.  I'm running a TOM.

From left to right .30 layer height with the old Jetty Firmware then .20 with Sailfish and then dark blue is .10 with sailfish (it took 45 minutes to print)  These models are only 3.5cm tall.

i.imgur.com/BFN8n.jpg
Check this out.  I printed the blue dragon with the old Jetty firmware at .30 level height yesterday and just finished up the green one today with this firmware at .20 level height.

i.imgur.com/5OU59.jpg
Sweet, we hadn't done any Tom Jetty versus Sailfish comparisons.  We new it was better than before, it's nice to see the comparison.

I've added some comparison images to this thing between 5.5, 6.0 and Sailfish.
Those comparison pics are awesome!
Great job once again Jetty!  Installation was pretty straight forward and easy.  
The only issue I found was using the calibration script on my TOM it seems to set X and Y home to the same value but since I had recorded those values before the upgrade all I had to do was retype them in and I'm printing like a champ.
Are you talking about the calibration menu item on the ToM's LCD, or something else?
Sorry I wasn't more clear.  I'm doing it from RepG under the File menu then Scripts then using the Thing-O-Matic calibration script.
A couple notes not covered in the installation instructions:

If you installed a makerware beta you need to remove the "conveyor" process so you can upload the new firmware.  On a mac run the following:

/Library/Frameworks/MakerBot.framework/MakerBot/http://makerbot-uninstall.sh

The kill any process named "conveyor" or "_conveyor".

I had a question on 

Step 1b: Invert your extruderReplicator operators skip this step. If you were previously using 5D — the makerbot4g driver — then you should skip this step as well. However, if you were previously not using 5D, then you must invert your extruder's direction of operation. Do this via ReplicatorG's Onboard Preferences window,I was running Jetty before and everything worked perfectly - but am not sure if I need to invert the extruder axis.  If I do invert the axis then when I hit forward in the control panel my extruder is going in reverse...so I'm guessing leaving it unchecked is what I want to do.
Turns out you can launch MakerWare, then stop Conveyor using the "Services" menu.  Conveyor stays stopped even after MakerWare is exited.  I've documented that approach on the install section of the wiki.
Thanks for the heads up, I'll forward the information to Dan.

Regarding the extruder inversion you didn't say what your hardware is or what you're using before.

But basically, if it's wrong, then when you print, you'll get no extrusion.  If that's the case, flip it and it will solve it.

Replicators you don't need to do this, because it prints using 5D from the factory, so they've already set the correct extruder direction.

If you had a ToM, then it depends.  If you were following our recommendations of not using 5D back then and haven't changed the driver, then you'll need to invert it for Sailfish.  Otherwise you likely won't.

The reason at the root of this is that non-5D extruders when the extruder steps are positive, and when they released 5D, they change that direction to extrude when negative.

Either way, if it don't work, flip it.
I wasn't using 5D before on My ToM (Gen4 w/ Jetty) - but inverting the extruder resulted in not getting extrusion.  I figured I had a 50/50 chance and flipped it back to unchecked.

For the first time I'm printing perfect prints  at 100+ mm/sec with 0.2mm layers....I'm absolutely amazed at the quality and speed - this thing runs like a dream.

I'm going to try 0.1mm layers and see.  I really have no need to go much further than that - and I'm guessing vibration of the machine on the Z will prevent much more of an improvement in resolution beyond that. 

 
p.s. Holy-moly that's a really nice surface finish on the tag!
Bravo!  Thanks again, Jetty!

https://github.com/jetty840/Sailfish-MightyBoardFirmware
https://github.com/jetty840/Sailfish-G3Firmware
Sweet!  I wonder how fast my ToM will go now.  I've been running jetty for a while and it prints better than the stock firmware at higher speeds.  I took a big push to go jetty before.  Post a vid of it printing!

I hate changing when I have everything dialed in...but perhaps I will.
Just save all your settings and upgrade.  It's not too difficult and easier than Jetty was on ToM.  There's a significant print improvement between Jetty on ToM and Sailfish.
Obligatory dual extruder support question?
jetty - in reply to cymon
We hear ya.  We tried to maintain 5.5's menu layout initially. As the firmware evolves, we'll be making User Interface changes to make it faster to work with it.
The image in this thing was printed on a Replicator 1 at 1200mm/s and 100Micron (0.1mm layer height) using Sailfish firmware.  It was printed with PrintOMatic.  No sanding or post processing, it's exactly as you see.
1200? you meant 120 I guess.
Well spotted.  That's correct, I've fixed it, it was a late night :-)
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