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Sailfish Firmware

by jetty, published

Sailfish Firmware by jetty Oct 13, 2012

Description

Request: If you use this firmware, please take the time to click on "I Made One" with a picture of your bot.

This firmware took approx 10 months to write / test.

Because this isn't something printable, the best appreciation you can show for this work is to encourage others to use it by keeping it on the Thingiverse front page. Thanks to those who have done this already.


"A Sailfish is faster than a Marlin".

Sailfish is the next generation of the Jetty Firmware. It's faster and has better print quality.

Supports: Replicator 1, ThingOMatic and Cupcake (TBA)

Firmware Manual: makerbot.com/sailfish

This firmware contains many new features, some of which are: better acceleration, ditto printing, Pause@ZPos, SF50 Volumetric 5D printing.

Requirements: makerbot.com/sailfish/#toc2

Support:
Help with using this firmware can be found over at the Jetty Firmware Forum:
groups.google.com/group/jetty-firmware

Authors:
Dan Newman
Jetty
A derivative of firmware released by Makerbot Industries.

Any updates will be placed here, so check back often.

Medallion was created with OmNomNom Creator:
thingiverse.com/thing:24639

Note: This is not an official Makerbot firmware release.

Recent Comments

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Only if you install Gen 3, Gen 4, or MightyBoard electronics.

This firmware can be used on Reprappro Huxley?

You can change your gcode to not play the ending song at all. There's only four choices

1. No gcode to play a tune
2. gcode to play the print done song, M72 P1
3. gcode to play error tone A, M72 P0
4. gcode to play error tone B, M72 P<any 0="" 1="" or="" other="" than="" value=""></any>

More from 3D Printing

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Liked By

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License

GNU - GPL
Sailfish Firmware by jetty is licensed under the GNU - GPL license.

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag. Print Thing Tag

Instructions

Installation instructions: makerbot.com/sailfish/install/

Setup Guide: makerbot.com/sailfish/setup/


Printing out the attached "MakeByASailfish", at 100 Micron
- Download the zip
- Set deprime in your acceleration settings to 0
- Replicator: Using Printomatic, generate for dual extrusion with 100% fill,
120mm/s feed rate, 0 shells, 0.1mm layer height, and 200mm/s travel feed rate
- ToM with LCD: Do the same as replicator but use Pause@ZPos for 1.02mm to change
colors.

Comments

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herisuprapto on Mar 25, 2014 said:

This firmware can be used on Reprappro Huxley?

dnewman on Mar 28, 2014 said:

Only if you install Gen 3, Gen 4, or MightyBoard electronics.

kazy on Mar 14, 2014 said:

Sooo is it possible to change the little tune that plays when a print is finished?

dnewman on Mar 14, 2014 said:

You can change your gcode to not play the ending song at all. There's only four choices

1. No gcode to play a tune
2. gcode to play the print done song, M72 P1
3. gcode to play error tone A, M72 P0
4. gcode to play error tone B, M72 P<any 0="" 1="" or="" other="" than="" value=""></any>

Lazzard on Mar 3, 2014 said:

I have a CTC Makerbot Clone, can i use your firmware ?

dnewman on Mar 3, 2014 said:

We don't own CTC's; we don't know. Ask around in the CTC user forums if anyone is running Sailfish. If the CTC's truly can run MBI's firmware, then they can run Sailfish.

AllenCoghill on Mar 1, 2014 said:

Well I downloaded this and uploaded the firmware to my flashforge. It no longer works. It just comes on to a blue screen with a bunch of boxes. Brand new motherboard ruined. Thanks.

dnewman on Mar 1, 2014 said:

FF setup guide for Sailfish by lovethepirk

https://groups.google.com/d/ms...

dnewman on Mar 1, 2014 said:

1. Why do you think your motherboard is ruined? Just download a different firmware. The firmware does not alter your bootloader; it does not alter the USB firmware on the 8u2 USB chip either. Thus, you can just download a different firmware. No big deal. I've even accidentally put the wrong firmware on my Rep 1. I just put the correct one on and all was well. If you are not comfortable doing these sorts of things, then you probably shouldn't be changing the firmware on your bot.
2. Plenty of FlashForge users are using Sailfish; just check out the flashforge forum, [email protected]
3. Install and setup directions for Sailfish can be found at http://makerbot.com/sailfish/ .
4. lovethepirk has posted very complete install and setup information for Sailfish to the FlashForge forum. He even made a video. You'll need to search for his postings.

Anonymous on Feb 27, 2014 said:

Is there any way of turning the lights on or off during a print? I liked to do that when I went to bed but cant seem to find it in the menu since changing to sailfish

dnewman on Feb 28, 2014 said:

You clearly have not discovered the menus for changing things mid-print. While the print is running, just press the "M" button. The print monitor screen goes away and you have a new menu of things you can do. Scroll down. One of them is doing a cold pause on the bot: it pauses the print, turns the heaters off, and turns the LEDs off. However, if you are printing with a plastic which requires a heated platform, your print may release from the platform over night.

DO NOT LEAVE THE PRINTER RUNNING UNATTENDED.

bagelturf on Jan 28, 2014 said:

I just cancelled a print and the head hit the left side of the Rep 1 when it was "Clearing the build area". Is that a bug?

dnewman on Mar 1, 2014 said:

And, if you cancel a print before homing has completed you WILL get odd behavior, even with MBI's firmware. Problem is that the coordinate system has not yet been defined until after all homing is finished. Thus, if the bot tries to clear the platform undefined things may happen.

dnewman on Feb 28, 2014 said:

This is not really a support forum. Please post over in the jetty-firmware or flashforge or makerbot-operators forum. This suggests that you did not complete all the install and setup steps.

rcboosted on Jan 18, 2014 said:

I'm having trouble uploading the sailfish firmware. I'm on a ToM MK7 with mega2560 motherboard. I downloaded ReplicatorG 40r23 on my linux machine, changed the firmware site to Jetty's, it downloaded all the files, and I went to upload the firmware. After selecting the correct firmware, I hit upload. It instantly fails. I tried the reset trick, hit the reset then upload, hold reset, release and immediately hit upload, tried both of the above and hitting upload at the same time, tried all combinations of timing etc etc. It always fails instantly. What am I doing wrong?

rcboosted on Jan 18, 2014 said:

resolved it by uploading from OSX.

ve3sjk on Dec 6, 2013 said:

Does sailfish have the replicator 2 bed leveling scripts via menu, if not where can i find them, would i run from the sd card. I had it installed but could not find the leveling scripts, so i moved back to stock firmare, i still want to install sailfish though

dnewman on Dec 6, 2013 said:

Yes. Utilities > Level Build Plate. Note that it's a very versatile leveling script: with your hand you move the nozzle/carriage to any point on the build plate where you want to check the gap/level. And you move it wherever as many times as you want. When done, you press the "M" button. So, it's not the same script that MBI uses that only allows to check 5 points.

plastkort on Nov 23, 2013 said:

nozzle calibration does not work ?

dnewman on Nov 25, 2013 said:

What exactly does not work? Be sure to see
_.
http://jettyfirmware.yolasite....

Specifically,

-----------
New for the Replicator 1 and 2 (MightyBoard)

Specific to Replicators, changes have been made in two areas. First, the addition of new safety features which are explained in the section New Replicator safety features. Second, the removal from the firmware of the Nozzle Calibration scripts as described below.

For Replicators, the Nozzle Calibration scripts have been removed so as to free up program space. These are the scripts which print the calibration lines used to calibrate the nozzle spacing of Replicator 1 Duals and Replicator 2Xs. These scripts are now accessed via ReplicatorG's menu "File > Scripts > Calibration > Replicator 1, 2 & 2X". Owing to the difference in nozzle spacings, there are two Nozzle Calibration scripts: one for the Replicator 1 Dual and another for the Replicator 2X. Run the correct script for your bot. You can also save the script to an SD card and run it from the card.

After running the script, use the bot's onboard Nozzle Calibration menu found under the Utilities menu. That menu will allow you to enter the X and Y calibration numbers as per the directions at Makerbot's Nozzle Alignment directions (http://www.makerbot.com/suppor...

--------

Finally, these comments are really not a support forum. Please use the [email protected] forum. Or [email protected]

plastkort on Nov 21, 2013 said:

i installed sailfish on a duplicator 4, but i forgot to do the restore saved offsets? what do i do?

dnewman on Nov 21, 2013 said:

Just reset the bot to factory defaults. It's unlikely that that clone came with the toolhead offsets calibrated anyway.

plastkort on Nov 21, 2013 said:

will sailfish be able to run in a cubex trio now or at a later time?

dnewman on Nov 21, 2013 said:

The Cubex Trio is a proprietary bot running proprietary firmware. Unless the Cubex folks port Sailfish to their printers, I would not expect to see Sailfish running on one.

gopedunderground on Nov 6, 2013 said:

Woohoo! Finally printing with SF on my Duplicator 4. Only pushing 90mm/s but I am still fine tuning the settings. I will be posting a "Made One" once I get my pics uploaded. If I read correctly somewhere...I should be able to run Slic3r???
Thanks so much for the awesome fw guys! More details to come very soon, just wanted to say thanks and mad props!

plastkort on Nov 21, 2013 said:

i installed it also. 7.5 but leveling the bed seem to move the stepstruder out of printing area, crashing at the edge, did this happen to you ?

dnewman on Nov 6, 2013 said:

Yes, you can use slic3r, KISSlicer, Cura, Simplify3D, Skeinforge, or MakerWare. Maybe some others as well? You will need to use RepG or GPX to convert the gcode to x3g as Makerbots (and hence Sailfish) does not directly consume gcode.

Alpha_Pi_Rho on Oct 30, 2013 said:

I'm having a problem with my nozzle alignment. I have a Rep 2X running
sailfish. I'm using OS X. I do the test print using an SD card and it looks like I need to change my X to 6
and my Y to 8. So I go to Nozzle Calibration on the printer and change
them, then I hit "Done!". But it doesn't save my changes. When I go back
into Nozzle Calibration they are both back on 7 where they started.
What am I doing wrong? Thanks for any help.

dnewman on Oct 30, 2013 said:

You have an incorrect expectation: the "Nozzle Calibration" screen is not a setting. It's merely how you input the numbers from printing the nozzle calibration script. It will always start showing 7 & 7. It takes the numbers you input and then computes the actual X and Y toolhead offsets and sets those values as the toolhead offsets (which you can see from RepG 40r22 - Sailfish using Machine > Onboard Parameters).

trentonfender on Oct 10, 2013 said:

Is this thing still better than what Makerbot Replicator Duals are set up with or has it become outdated?

IWorkInPixels on Oct 22, 2013 said:

I agree with bbence... I've had much better luck on my Rep1 Dual with sailfish than with any of the stock firmwares.

bbence on Oct 22, 2013 said:

Nope, this one is much better than stock FW.

funkshin on Aug 28, 2013 said:

Dan, Jetty, thanks for such a beautiful contribution. I pulled off my first few 50 micron prints this weekend thanks in part to sailfish.

karandex on Aug 11, 2013 said:

can you please make it work with printrboard or other boards like ramps? that will open the doors to user makerware with other repraps

dnewman on Aug 12, 2013 said:

Install Gen 4 or Mightyboard-clone electronics on your RepRap. Other folks have gone that route; was just helping someone with a Prusa i3.

domenick on Jul 7, 2013 said:

When I unzipped RepG 040r22 I saw ReplicatorG-large-models.exe What is that for?

dnewman on Jul 7, 2013 said:

For large STL files that would normally otherwise exceed the amount of memory that Java allows the normal RepG to use.

JCarlisle on Jul 3, 2013 said:

I flashed my replicator 2 with sailfish and now it will not read the SD Card. I get nothing but a notice saying SD Card read error. So I flashed the replicator back to stock firmware and the card reads fine. I'll try Sailfish again someday in the future, hopefully that problem will be worked out by then

dnewman on Jul 3, 2013 said:

1. Did you follow the setup directions and reset your bot to factory defaults from RepG 40r22 - Sailfish? Sounds like you didn't and as a result had who knows what settings in EEPROM including a setting to enable SD card error detection. It's off by default. If it was on -- and it sounds like it was -- then that means you did not complete the setup directions. (Install and setup information is found at http://makerbot.com/sailfish/ .)

It's also possible you have broken SD card hardware. I've had my Rep 2 get a piece of fine filament down in the SD card slot such that the SD card inserted switch did not work. I could see the fine piece of filament with a flashlight. I was able to blow it out with compressed air. I also saw similar on someone else's bot and tweezers were needed to get it out. It's a problem with how MBI made that slot: debris can fall in it unlike the side mounted slot on the Rep 1.

But why is interruption of the SD card select switch an issue? Because Sailfish depends upon it working so that it can provide SD card folder support. (And FAT-32 support for high capacity SD cards.) Soooo, there's some chance that was your issue. However, not resetting the EEPROM to factory defaults from RepG is more likely the case. At any rate, the Sailfish build for "broken SD card hardware" works on bots with a failed SD card detect switch. You can always run with that instead. Downside is that you do not get SD card folder support.

jetty on Jul 3, 2013 said:

Sounds like your SD Card or Mightyboard is faulty. Sailfish has extra SD Card checking than the stock firmware does, you can disable it in onboard preferences, but you want to fix the root cause.

andrefarias66 on Jun 17, 2013 said:

Commands M106 M107 have speed control (PWM) in firmware Sailfish? I can use it as a On/Off command but with the M106 Snnn parameter, speed does not change.

dnewman on Jun 21, 2013 said:

PWM has never been supported by Replicators (regardless of the firmware). On Cupcakes and Thing-o-Matics, PWM for fans has nothing to do with the Sailfish firmware -- fans are handled by the extruder controller which is a separate board with its own processor and firmware.

Austin on Apr 24, 2013 said:

Thank you again for this excellent firmware! I especially find the Pause@ZPos feature to be extremely useful. :)

I'm currently iterating on a color-chip design that includes embedded magnets (hoops are a thing of the past!), and the repeated printing got me to find out about the "M322" command, but I haven't been able to get it working, especially since I can't seem to find any posted examples of its usage (both for location in the gcode and the format for its parameter).

Also, in fumbling with finding and reading the implementation (https://github.com/jetty840/Sa..., it appears that it will only accept integral mm for the parameter, but I definitely want to at an automatic pause at a sub-mm precision (to snugly fit the magnets).

Can someone who's familiar with M322 help me by giving me an example of its insertion into the gcode after slicing?

Also, assuming the z-position is in the middle of a layer, does anyone know if the pause occurs before or after that layer is printed? (I've been adding one layer to the height just in case the answer is "before")

Thanks!

dnewman on Apr 25, 2013 said:

Hey Austin! Long time no hear.

You need the in beta test Sailfish 4.4 / 7.4 and RepG 40r16 in order to use the M322. Or, in place of RepG 40r16, Henry Thomas' GPX which also has a meta language for doing fun stuff like interjecting a pause @ Zpos and then knowing that the filament thereafter will have a different diameter.

To find out about the in-beta Sailfish and RepG, see the announcements at the jetty-firmware group at groups.google.com. (You'll need to join to search/see postings.)

As to the format of the M322 (after you have RepG 40r16), to pause at Z=zzz.zz, use the mcode

M322 Zzzz.zz

JohnA on Apr 23, 2013 said:

Finally jumped to the 7.3 on a Rep1 (XL) and the upgrade was smooth. I'd been running all 6.x for a while since I couldn't afford any downtime. Printing great!

dnewman on Apr 24, 2013 said:

Thanks for the update John. The next release, 7.4, should be quite low risk. (Famous Last Words, eh?) But the nice thing about it is that it will bring SDHC & FAT-32 support finally.

chevyman on Apr 9, 2013 said:

i have a question, if upgrading repG to new revision in windows, what is the best way to do it? Thanks!

fredini on Mar 24, 2013 said:

Hi- I got Sailfish installed on my Replicator1, but now the extruder temp reads as NA on the LCD or 1024 from within ReplicatorG. The Troubleshooting page indicated this is something I can fix in the Onboard Preferences dialogue- it suggesed "Override Gcode Temperature" is enabled. I find no mention of this in the dialogue and under the Extruder tab all I find are PID values. Any ideas?

dnewman on Mar 24, 2013 said:

This really ins't a support forum. Please join the jetty-firmware list at groups.google.com.

fredini on Mar 24, 2013 said:

Hi- I just acquired a Replicator 1 and am installing Sailfish on it. After installing and upon trying to test the extruder I'm having an issue where the extruder reports its 1024 degrees and I'm trying to troubleshoot it. Specifically, on the machine's LCD it says the temp is NA, in Replicator G, it states the temp is 1024 degrees.

The Sailfish troubleshooting page talks about this:
"My bot is heating to the wrong temperature.
You probably have Sailfish’s “Override Gcode Temperature” feature enabled. This feature overrides the temperature set in your GCode in favor of the temperature set in your onboard Preheat Settings. You can set the Preheat Settings to the temperature you need, or turn the feature off altogether in ReplicatorG’s Onboard Preferences window."

However, I am not finding any of this under the Onboard Preferences panel. The only thing under the Extruder tab is the PID values.

Anyone have any leads on how to fix this?

dnewman on Mar 24, 2013 said:

There have been a number of threads on this recently on the makerbot-operators group: your Replicator has one of it's three heater sensors not plugged in, shorting, or intermittently not registering. It could be the wiring connector to the HBP is failing, or one of the thermocouple wires is failing, or one of the thermocouple beads has broken through the kapton tape which insulates it from the heater block, or the wires for any of these three sensors need to be tightened down. But, from the firmware side of things this means that the firmware is having repeated errors trying to read the temp for whichever sensor is being reported as 1024C.

fredini on Mar 24, 2013 said:

Hi- I just acquired a Replicator 1 and am installing Sailfish on it. After installing and upon trying to test the extruder I'm having an issue where the extruder reports its 1024 degrees and I'm trying to troubleshoot it. Specifically, on the machine's LCD it says the temp is NA, in Replicator G, it states the temp is 1024 degrees.

The Sailfish troubleshooting page talks about this:
"My bot is heating to the wrong temperature.
You probably have Sailfish’s “Override Gcode Temperature” feature enabled. This feature overrides the temperature set in your GCode in favor of the temperature set in your onboard Preheat Settings. You can set the Preheat Settings to the temperature you need, or turn the feature off altogether in ReplicatorG’s Onboard Preferences window."

However, I am not finding any of this under the Onboard Preferences panel. The only thing under the Extruder tab is the PID values.

Anyone have any leads on how to fix this?

dnewman on Mar 24, 2013 said:

There have been a number of threads on this recently on the makerbot-operators group: your Replicator has one of it's three heater sensors not plugged in, shorting, or intermittently not registering. It could be the wiring connector to the HBP is failing, or one of the thermocouple wires is failing, or one of the thermocouple beads has broken through the kapton tape which insulates it from the heater block, or the wires for any of these three sensors need to be tightened down. But, from the firmware side of things this means that the firmware is having repeated errors trying to read the temp for whichever sensor is being reported as 1024C.

fredini on Mar 24, 2013 said:

Hi- I just acquired a Replicator 1 and am installing Sailfish on it. After installing and upon trying to test the extruder I'm having an issue where the extruder reports its 1024 degrees and I'm trying to troubleshoot it. Specifically, on the machine's LCD it says the temp is NA, in Replicator G, it states the temp is 1024 degrees.

The Sailfish troubleshooting page talks about this:
"My bot is heating to the wrong temperature.
You probably have Sailfish’s “Override Gcode Temperature” feature enabled. This feature overrides the temperature set in your GCode in favor of the temperature set in your onboard Preheat Settings. You can set the Preheat Settings to the temperature you need, or turn the feature off altogether in ReplicatorG’s Onboard Preferences window."

However, I am not finding any of this under the Onboard Preferences panel. The only thing under the Extruder tab is the PID values.

Anyone have any leads on how to fix this?

dnewman on Mar 24, 2013 said:

There have been a number of threads on this recently on the makerbot-operators group: your Replicator has one of it's three heater sensors not plugged in, shorting, or intermittently not registering. It could be the wiring connector to the HBP is failing, or one of the thermocouple wires is failing, or one of the thermocouple beads has broken through the kapton tape which insulates it from the heater block, or the wires for any of these three sensors need to be tightened down. But, from the firmware side of things this means that the firmware is having repeated errors trying to read the temp for whichever sensor is being reported as 1024C.

magdesign on Mar 19, 2013 said:

amazing!
thank you so much for coding sailfish. it took me severeal hours to install and re-calibrate my tom.
but after all its a superb updated worth a few $
where can i donate?

Tunell on Mar 6, 2013 said:

all of the documentation for sailfish references the original replicator 1.

1: Does it work for the Rep2?
2: Will I still see improvements if I continue using Makerware with sailfish?

dnewman on Mar 6, 2013 said:

Read the jetty-firmware mailing list.

LucasB on Mar 2, 2013 said:

Very Nice! Tried it today and prints are finer then ever before!
Nice feature for the next version would be an updated TOM-Dualstrusion -Profile where the build-plate only "shrinks" in x in the amount of head-spacing and keeps the full 120mm in y for the model-window - though everybody can change that.

phineasjw on Mar 2, 2013 said:

The replicatorg-0040r9-Sailfish windows version is throwing a "Could not create the Java virtual machine" error. Windows7 64bit tells me it was configured to use a bundled Java Runtime but it is missing or corrupt. Any solutions?

bjornsyse on Mar 7, 2013 said:

I get this same error aswell. Cannot start Replicator G at all. I have stopped the conveyor service in Makerware if that would make a difference, but it did not.

dnewman on Mar 3, 2013 said:

BTW, if you moved the ReplicatorG.exe out of its folder (say to the Desktop) and then tried to run it, you would get *exactly* the error you reported. Specifically, Launch4j in the window title with the text, "This application was configured to use a bundled Java Runtime Environment but the runtime is missing or corrupted". Do not move the .exe out of it's folder. Instead right click on it, select "Copy". Then go to the desktop or wherever and then right click again, but select "Paste shortcut".

dnewman on Mar 3, 2013 said:

Odd, runs fine for me on Windows 7 64bit. Also Windows XP SP3 and Windows 7 32bit. I did not try Vista. The only change in that rev of RepG is to invoke the Java Virtual Machine (JVM) with a larger upper limit on the heap size: 1.4 GB instead of 0.75 GB. Other than that, there's no difference between it and r8.

Now, the package does include a bundled JVM. However, I don't believe it's missing or corrupt. Outdated, certainly, but not missing. Don't know about corrupt -- most anything might have corrupted it. Other folks have tested it on Windows and found it to work, so I'm not sure what might be amiss.

chevyman on Feb 28, 2013 said:

i just upgrade from the 3.5 and can't find where to change the jog
direction so if you push the left jog(X) it goes left and not right and
the same with the jog for the (Y).
thanks!

dnewman on Mar 1, 2013 said:

Do you mean changing from the coordinate system based motion to model view based motion OR do you mean that you need to invert the stepper motors for more than one axis? For the former, you can only do that if you have a Gen 4 LCD display. It's part of the jog menu where you change the MODE by pressing the "SET" button (center button on the rightmost column of buttons). If you mean the latter -- inverting an axis -- then you do that via ReplicatorG's Machine > Onboard Preferences screen.

deadnuts on Feb 12, 2013 said:

This firmware exceeds all expectations! I was not prepared for the speed or quality that my TOM could provide. Thank you

BitBuilder on Feb 9, 2013 said:

I see we now have a RepG 40 as well as a 39... Does this build of 40 fix the toolhead offset issue found in the regular v40 release?

dnewman on Feb 10, 2013 said:

What toolhead offset issue? MBI changed the dualstrusion system in RepG 40 from what existed in RepG 39 and earlier. There's nothing to "fix" there per se. You either use the old system or the new system. However, the currently released versions of Sailfish do not support the new system. The next release -- 4.2 & 7.1 -- will support both the old and new dualstrusion systems. That release is due out this upcoming week.

If, however, you are referring to some other issue with toolhead offsets, then please be more specific. And, more importantly, please discuss on the jetty-firmware mailing list.

StevenP on Feb 9, 2013 said:

I cant upgrade my Replicator 1 to version 7.1 every time it says upload failed

dnewman on Feb 10, 2013 said:

7.1 is in beta test. This is not a "forum" to discuss beta test releases. As t your specific question, the upload failing, you likely have the timing off with doing the reset or have possibly bricked your uprocessor. This is not Sailfish specific and is a more general usage question best posted to the makerbot-operators newsgroup.

StevenP on Feb 9, 2013 said:

I cant upgrade to version 7.1 on my Replicator 1 dual every times it says ulpoading failed

rocketboy on Feb 5, 2013 said:

Confirmed that Replicator 40-R005 and the 7.1Beta Firmware fixes the offset/centering problem on my machine encountered when using Replicator40 and 7.0 firmware on my machine. Remove the -33 bit from the x-tool-offset that causes prints with the left toolhead to be offset by 33mm :).

Thanks Jetty, you rock!

graphicsforge on Feb 4, 2013 said:

Oh sweet, a new version!?
What's changed?

dnewman on Feb 4, 2013 said:

Preliminary beta release notes were posted today to the jetty-firmware group at groups.google.com.

Voidward on Feb 1, 2013 said:

Holding my breath that my Rep2 can print at these type of speeds one day.

dnewman on Feb 12, 2013 said:

It's now available for the Rep 2. See http://jettyfirmware.yolasite....

Davecc on Jan 25, 2013 said:

I want to upgrade to Sailfish but have ReplicatorG 040 loaded for my Replicator. I'm also running 6.2 firmware. How can I do this? I have not found anyway to make the switch.

dnewman on Jan 25, 2013 said:

1. Download ReplicatorG 39 - Sailfish
2. Install ReplicatorG 39 - Sailfish
3. Install the Sailfish 7.0 firmware
4. Launch ReplicatorG 39 - Sailfish
5. Select "Replicator Single" or "Replicator Dual" for your Machine Type. (Note, Replicator 2's and 2X's are not yet supported.)
6. Connect from ReplicatorG 39 - Sailfish to your bot over USB; it will send some settings to the bot.
7. From Machine > Onboard Preferences use "Reset to Factory Settings" to ensure that the EEPROM doesn't have odd values.
8. If you will be doing dualstrusion, convert your X Toolhead Offset from MBI's new system back to the old system:
a. If the value is near zero, then you have the old system -- stop here
b. If the value is near +33 mm then change it to "old value - 33.0". You may have a negative values; that's okay.
c. If the value is near -33 mm, then change it to "old value + 33.". Again, a negative value is okay.

rullmann on Jan 21, 2013 said:

The 3rd and 4th rows on my Gen 4 MBI interface board are shifted 4 spaces to the right since I upgraded my thingomatic to this firmware. On most screens this isn't an issue but on some screens it cuts off information. Anyone else have this issue?

rullmann on Jan 21, 2013 said:

The 3rd and 4th rows on the LCD interface are shifted to the right 4 spaces since I upgraded. On some screens this isn't an issue but on others it cuts off information. Anyone else have this issue? This is on a thigomatic with MBI Interface.

dnewman on Jan 21, 2013 said:

Common issue discussed multiple times in the makerbot-operators and jetty-firmware groups. Quick workaround should be to reset your EEPROM to defaults from RepG. Then don't do the naughty thing of leaving your bot connected to USB when powered off as that's know to cause problems owing to a design flaw in the v2.x motherboard. (There's power provided to the AVR, but not enough what with the EC and stepper drivers leaching power as well. The AVR tries to run on close to 1.5 V and browns out but in the process manages to poke the EEPROM setting for the LCD display size. Workaround: don't power over USB alone; fix is to reburn the AVR fuses for a 4.3 V BOD and to wire the ATX power supplies "power good" pin to the AVR's reset pin via a 1K resistor.)

kawak on Jan 18, 2013 said:

I have to say, I had just about given up on my TOM. all I was ever printing were things to test if the machine was still working, and those things took forever, and printed so inconsistently that it just wasn't worth my time, and totally uninteresting to my kids. I spent hours and hours adding a second print head for dualstrusion using dissolvable filament so I could print some 'moving parts', hoping that would make 3d printing magical, but it was just another exercise in patience with a payoff that fell short. Sailfish has brought our TOM to life! it's now running every chance it gets (thank god because my collection of filament would have been wasted), already made field trips to classrooms at school, and we're working with teachers and friends to finally have this be a walk up device for imaginative kids. THANK YOU!

MarcusWolschon on Jan 22, 2013 said:

How to re burn the fuses? I didn't see any ISP header and the Atmel is not removable.

timmytool on Jan 15, 2013 said:

Hi, after a failed ebay purchase of a TOM LCD interface I'm wondering if the interface can be replicated via software onto the host pc? instead of having the processor drive the interface directly use that processing power to drive a low volume feedback to the pc and then that to be turned into a on screen interface.... I know it would not be easy but you have shown the skill that kill in making your own drivers and firmware why not go one step further... even with the replicator
I'm sure a lot of people would love a on screen interface over the little LCD one.

MacGyver on Jan 15, 2013 said:

Interesting idea but I'm pretty sure nearly everything the LCD can do is already implemented in RepG. If someone wants to code it I would try it.

stevecooley on Jan 14, 2013 said:

As of today, the current URL for documentation: http://www.makerbot.com/sailfi...

slamzee on Jan 8, 2013 said:

Is the wiki broken?

mortinus on Jan 8, 2013 said:

OH MY GOD...!
Thank you..thank you...thank you.
I'm in the middle of my first test print..started @ 100mm/s just because..cranking it up soon!
I cannot believe the difference..Took a 19 minute print down to 5 minutes 40 seconds. Can't wait to crank this thing up...!

Austin on Jan 6, 2013 said:

I'm only seeing 404 errors when trying to access any of the linked to wiki pages. Is anyone else seeing the same thing?

dnewman on Jan 6, 2013 said:

Hey Austin!

wiki.makerbot.com is no more. The docs are moving to makerbot,com but that will take a few more days. They are archived at makerbot.com/support/archive under the "Pages Archive" link. (A zip file.)

bstott on Jan 5, 2013 said:

hi - today - 1/5/13. wiki.makerbot.com does not give up your files... I get the Page not found error.

andyways on Jan 5, 2013 said:

Any chance those wiki docs linked above have been moved to a new home?

Looks like wiki.makerbot.com has finally gone offline. I knew this was coming so its more of a friendly reminder. :)

dnewman on Jan 5, 2013 said:

All of wiki.makerbot.com was archived at

http://www.makerbot.com/suppor...

And the Sailfish docs will be resurfacing soon at www.makerbot.com as distinct pages (as opposed to being lumped in an archive).

andyways on Jan 5, 2013 said:

I was mainly looking for these links for pointing repG to:

http://jettyfirmware.yolasite....

http://jettyfirmware.yolasite....

I found em ;)

gdanter on Jan 4, 2013 said:

This was an easy print and nice print to display.

jamesarm97 on Jan 3, 2013 said:

Is there a new home for the setup guide? the links to makerbot are not working.

tvett05 on Jan 4, 2013 said:

Use Google's cached page:
http://webcache.googleusercont...

GodfatherUr on Dec 20, 2012 said:

I am having a rather odd issue with the firmware. Running a TOM with MK6 and 3mm filament. For some reason the printer seems to consistently lose steps on the X axis about 1/4 of the way through a print regardless of what settings I throw at it. Anyone else experiencing issues like this? Any suggestions on a way to resolve?

3dprinterbot on Dec 22, 2012 said:

I have the same problem. I tried printing a medium sized object three or four times. Each time, part way through the print, the Heated Build Platform would jump over about 1/2" at the start of a new layer. Sometimes it would do it multiple times. It do it on the same layer each time. I tried printer other objects as well with the same results. It started doing this when I upgraded to Sailfish. Before that, I was using the stock firmware. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

seedwire on Dec 2, 2012 said:

Ouch! I love the work- and 140mm/s is amazing to see in action... and I'm curious to learn more about what kind of feedback the firmware is using... BUT, when I cancel a print (or pause) with 7.0, my HBP tries to exit the bottom of the bot... rather noisily, too, I might add. So, what am I missing??

seedwire on Dec 2, 2012 said:

Found it- I failed to reset factory defaults to get the EEPROM back to sanity... tool offsets and homing were the culprits.
(it *was* after all in the installation manual!)

RotoScan on Nov 27, 2012 said:

This is wonderful, thanks for your work on this!

zilvertail on Nov 24, 2012 said:

Hey, in RepG 40 r003, the extruder hold isn't an option anymore, compared to r002, is there something else instead of that option?

dnewman on Nov 24, 2012 said:

I just downloaded RepG 40 - Sailfish r003 for the Mac and Extruder Hold is still there.  It's on the "misc" tab, left hand column, under "platform preheat & override temperture".  You will only see it if your machine definition is for "makerbot4gsailfish" and the bot reports a firmware of 4.0 or later.

Since I built those RepG 40 - Sailfish packages, I'm confident that they are all the same source.  The Windows and Linux versions should be no different.

MarcusWolschon on Nov 22, 2012 said:

Just tried the firmware on my ToM.
interface is extremely slow (serveral seconds per keypress),
ReplicatorG can connect after PC reboot but doesn't find toolhead.
Lots of timeout messages.

http://marcuswolschon.blogspot...

zilvertail on Nov 20, 2012 said:

Brilliant firmware, cudos!

But now i can't print from SD. In ReplicatorG it just says "Select the .s3g file to build:" Realizing that's the wrong format i went searching. 

Then i found this bit on the Google forums: "...make sure to select 'x3g' from the drop down file extension selector."

Which leads me to what drop down file extension selector, please tell me i'm a fool by now, and quickly please :)

Keep up the good work.

dnewman on Nov 21, 2012 said:

If you use a version of RepG which gives you a choice of file types in a drop down list near the bottom of the file menu, then select .x3g.  Otherwise, use .s3g.  The bot itself doesn't care, as long as the file extension is .x3g or .s3g.  However, MBI was concerned that the new accelerated move command would cause problems for users so in RepG 40 they made it such that you have to select .x3g in order for *RepG* to write out a file using the new move command.

So, to repeat: if RepG gives you a choice of .x3g or .s3g, then select .x3g.  Otherwise (RepG 39 and earlier), use .s3g.

technophobe on Nov 18, 2012 said:

It looks like Miracle Grue is not present in the Gcode Generators list in this version of RepG 40. Is that intentional? Where is the source repo for this version of repg...I can have a look myself if that's easiest.

Thank you.

doctek on Nov 15, 2012 said:

You mention several times that porting Sailfish to other controllers is possible. I would like to look at the source code and consider the feasibility of doing this. However, I have searched in vain for the Sailfish source code. Could you be so kind as to point me to the directory from the archive that contains it?

Thank you. 

gth on Nov 14, 2012 said:

Perhaps helpful to explain each of the attachments, here in the Thingiverse instructions?  Bit confusing to see both v39 and v40 downloads...

jetty on Nov 14, 2012 said:

Not really too much to explain.  If you prefer to use v39 RepG, download that one, if you prefer to use v40 RepG, download that.

Generally later release tend not to have all the bugs ironed out.  RepG40 is new, lots of people are using RepG39.

adamsbriand on Nov 13, 2012 said:

Is SailFish an upgrade over Makerware 1.0.2.22 with v6.2 of the firmware for use on a Replicator 1?

dnewman on Nov 14, 2012 said:

Sailfish is bot firmware.  MakerWare is desktop slicing and bot control firmware.  They are two entirely different things.
Thus Sailfish is an alternative firmware for the firmware in your Replicator 1.

Phroon on Nov 13, 2012 said:

I was having no end of trouble with v5.5 on my Replicator, uploaded this to my Bot, followed the recommended settings and now I'm printing at 120mm/s.  Thanks jetty!

Nio on Nov 10, 2012 said:

Please support RAMPS!

rogeroh33 on Nov 10, 2012 said:

Can I use this with Ultimaker

dnewman on Nov 10, 2012 said:

No.  You would have to port it to support the Ultimaker electronics -- the different I/O ports for the stepper drivers, temp. sensors, etc.

Thinkinglink on Nov 10, 2012 said:

I've been following the Jetty firmware for a while but have been skeptical to do this upgrade until now. All I can say is wow! Thank you Jetty. This has been the best upgrade since i've had my TOM for over 2 years. I've only used all your settings mentioned in the instructions and now the printer prints fast and beautiful.  I've had offset problems w/ makerbot oem firmware and i've always thought i needed to tweak the belts more or try to make the x,y stage smoother, but w/out doing any of that, this firmware alone does the job. Thanks again!

MarcusWolschon on Nov 7, 2012 said:

The requirements document lists MK6+ extruder as the minimum.
I have the MK6 extruder.
Will that be a problem?

dnewman on Nov 7, 2012 said:

It must be a stepper-motor driven extruder.  So as long as it's a Stepstruder Mk6 you should be okay.

LouFlemal on Nov 7, 2012 said:

Has the extruder controller firmware been modified by the Sailfish upgrade, or can a Thing-O-Matic owner skip the EC update if they already have up-to-date stock firmware on their extruder?

dnewman on Nov 7, 2012 said:

Just to be clear: Sailfish is the firmware for the Motherboard v2.4 (or 2.5 if you happened to recently replace yours).  The Extruder Controller is a separate board with separate firmware.  As such, Sailfish itself does not modify the firmware on the Extruder Controller board. 

Sailfish requires the 3.1 Extruder Controller firmware.  There has been no later release of the EC firmware.

jhessig on Nov 4, 2012 said:

I really like this firmware. Generally faster and higher quality prints, and made my replicator 1 run quieter.

However, I am having a strange issue. When I change some models in RepG (scale, center, etc.) they print as they were originally loaded instead of how they were changed. Is there any way to fix this?

jhessig on Nov 4, 2012 said:

Nevermind, I feel silly, the issue was caused by loading STLs directly from the web browser and then being unable to save the file when generating gcode. Saving a local copy first fixed the problem.

Awesome firmware!

1Robomaker on Nov 2, 2012 said:

Hats off! thank you for your hard work.
I do have a question though:
I am using the sailfish variant of the" Thing-o-matic w/ hbp and stepstruder mk7"

Everything seems to be working very impressive with the exception of the build being centered. 
It is centered in repg 39 sailfish, but not on platform.
My setup is a stock thingomatic .

Any suggestions??

dnewman on Nov 2, 2012 said:

Connect to the bot via USB from RepG 39 - Sailfish.  Then, from Machine > Onboard Preferences, ensure that the Toolcount is set to 1 (unless you have two extruders).  And make sure that the toolhead offsets are 0.  Your EEPROM may have had other, random values for some of those.

martinbogo on Nov 1, 2012 said:

I'm having a HECK of a time getting SailFish working both quickly and accurately on my Replicator 1

replicator.xml is unmodified 

Onboard preferences:

Acceleration ("Fine Quality") no other changes
Acceleration (misc)
* override off
* preheat on pause on
* Slow when falls behind on
* JKN advance K=0.005
* JKN advance K2=0.055
* Deprime right + left is 16

*) Using print-o-matic 
** Layer height .20mm
** Infill 20%** Feed 80
** Moves 100
** Temperature 230
** Bed temp 110
** Filament diameter 1.80 (measured from actual)

*) Extruder stepper "ticks" and skips steps*) With reversal disabled in Dimension, and deprime (16 steps) enabled
*) Extrusion of filament delayed by 1-2cm .. leaving big blank "holes"

Pics at:

http://picpaste.com/00IjTMT3.J...

http://picpaste.com/IMG_3350-B...

http://picpaste.com/4cf1decd84...

dnewman on Nov 1, 2012 said:

Looks like you need to relevel your build platform.  The first picture looks like the extruder nozzle is too close to the platform and as a result the nozzle cannot extrude plastic.  That's consistent with the extruder making ticking sounds and the blank holes.

Also, you will likely be better served using the makerbot-operators group or the jetty-firmware group to assist in diagnosing this.  Comments here really are not a viable vehicle for doing support, especially given that Thingiverse has been down off and on recently, and for the past month or so has reportedly not been good about sending Thing authors notices about updates to comments.  (I.e., Jetty may not be aware that new comments are being posted without having to proactively look for new comments.)

PrettySmallThings on Oct 29, 2012 said:

Is the ditto process documented anywhere?  Does it work from within RepG?  I can't figure out how to use it.

jetty on Oct 30, 2012 said:
LiquidBeef on Oct 29, 2012 said:

Any tips on getting things back to regular stock firmware?

slamzee on Oct 29, 2012 said:

Any progress on the 3D 5G shield Cupcake version? It didn't show up last time it tried to install in the options...

dnewman on Oct 29, 2012 said:

Still being worked on.  Some folks are successfully using it. However, RepG 39 + SF 50 + Vol 5D creates an annoying situation for 3mm extruders.  We are putting a workaround for that in the firmware and will have a few people test it in a day or so.  I'm hoping that in another week or so we'll be ready for a non-beta Cupcake release.

LiquidBeef on Oct 29, 2012 said:

Also, the last few steps of setup tell me to set Deprime to 16. Why would I reset it again to 0 before printing "MadeByASailfish"?

LiquidBeef on Oct 29, 2012 said:

This is a dumb question, but I've been struggling to get this working, so.. 

People keep telling me to make sure I'm using RepG-39 Sailfish.

The ReplicatorG I download from this page doesn't say sailfish anywhere (replicatorg-0039-mac-r647.dmg, which installs as "ReplicatorG"). I've uninstalled both ReplicatorG and MakerWare before installing this- Am I somehow using the wrong version?

foxdewayne on Oct 28, 2012 said:

I installed the new firmware on my mendal with gen 4 electronics. things work like they are suposed to , but I need to change the mm/second rates for my machine. the z hight is way off do to the threded rod. Im useing the Thingomatic with HBP And MK7 profile. How do I change the mm/ second. On the old Replicator G you could go in and change these settings under machine types.

dnewman on Oct 29, 2012 said:

You'll need to start using RepG 39 - Sailfish.  That means making a machine definition (xml) file for your bot for RepG.  RepG takes information from that definition and transmits it over USB to the firmware which then stores it in EEPROM.  For example, the max feed rates per axis and the axes lengths.

You will need to make your own xml file and park it in ~/.replicatorg/machines/ .  You can copy the thingomatic-sailfish.xml one from RepG.  Then edit the file, removing all the machines but one and change it's name to be something more appropriate.  Then change the information for the axes you need to change.

LiquidBeef on Oct 28, 2012 said:

Argh. Before installing this, my left extruder was printing about 20mm to the left. Now it's about 50mm high and 20mm to the right. What gives?

dnewman on Oct 28, 2012 said:

The jerking around indicates that either

1. You're not using RepG 39 - Sailfish, or
2. You're using old s3g files which were not produced by RepG 39 - Sailfish.

You *must* use RepG 39 - Sailfish.  It produces the correct motion commands.  The oldstyle motion commands are run without accelertion.  So, if they are at high speed, things will indeed jerk around.

RepG 39 - Sailfish is one of the downloads for this Thing.  Ensure that you are using it.

MBI posted on the makerbot-operators group that they will support Sailfish so use of a custom RepG is short term.

dnewman on Oct 28, 2012 said:

At some point MBI changed how tool head offsets are stored.  Before they included the 33 mm distance along the X axis between the two extruder nozzles.  Now they are just the deviation from dx=33, dy=0, and dz=0.  So, you need to alter your toolhead offsets to conform to MBI's new model.  Do this with RepG's Machine > Onboard Preferences.  I believe it's the second tab.

MDFast1 on Oct 27, 2012 said:

This may be a stupid question, but is this possible to run on the printrbot, will I have issues?  I know the printrboard can be flashed, but I'm not sure how the coding would affect the bot.  IE is this firmware only configured for the Replicator?

dnewman on Oct 28, 2012 said:

This firmware is only for RepRap Gen 3 (rrmbv12), RepRap Gen 4, and MBI MightyBoard RevE electronics.  It would need to be ported to work on PRINTRBOARD electronics.

phineasjw on Oct 25, 2012 said:

OK.  I couldn't get anyone to comment on how to fix the left extruder offset so I did some quick digging.  For some reason when the Dual_Head_start.gcode gets merged in the tool offset lines get changed from
G10 P1 X0 Y0 Z-0.3 (Designate T0 Offset)
G10 P2 X33 Y0 Z-0.3 (Designate T1 Offset)
to
G10 P1 X16.5 Y0 Z-0.3 (Designate T0 Offset)
G10 P2 X-16.5 Y0 Z-0.3 (Designate T1 Offset)

Looks like somebody assumed the Replicator 1 extruder center location was in between both extruders when the machine seems to actually center on the right extruder.  Actually it looks like the -16.5 makes the left tool offset problem 49.5mm too far to the left and the right extruder 16.5mm too far to the right of where they should be.

Can someone please fix this so I don't have to keep hand editing?

dnewman on Oct 26, 2012 said:

MBI some time back changed this.  Used to be that the toolhead offsets were the actual distances between the two extruder orifices.  However, at some point *MBI* changed the system so that the toolhead offsets are the deviations from the ideal offsets of x=33mm and y=0mm.  At the same time, they changed RepG's dualstrusion to automatically include a 33mm offset in the gcode.

So, at some point Replicator owners were expected, when upgrading their MBI firmware to subtract out of their toolhead x offset, 33 mm.

And yes, the system now assumes a center point between the two extruders.

SparkySD on Oct 23, 2012 said:

Just updated my Replicator1 to Sailfish v6.2 and so far the results have been excellent.
Thanks for all your hard work Jetty !

DanLuc on Oct 23, 2012 said:

So I'm butchering my Ultimaker to get rid of the belts, which means the pitch will be different. I noticed Sailfish doesn't support UM. any chance it will soon?

Antiklesys on Oct 24, 2012 said:

Hey DanLuc, what are you planning to install instead of the belts? I'm quite curious as I wanted to improve the transmission too

phineasjw on Oct 22, 2012 said:

In addition to the 33mm offset problem with the left extruder on my Replicator 1,  I have also noticed that since I switched to using AltShell the time estimates are way off.  For example, a 30min estimate will actually take 55mins.  Before switching to using AltShell the estimate was only a few minutes off.  Does the estimator take into account time "lost" by AltShell turning off acceleration for the shell?  Or is something else going on?

dnewman on Oct 23, 2012 said:

The estimator does not work at all with acceleration.

Crypto on Oct 22, 2012 said:

Just uploaded my Yoda printed on a TOM mk6 extruder. 100mm tall.
0 fill, 0.2 Layer Height !! 2 shells
and at 60mm/s feed and 80mm/s travel!!
It took and hour and a half. Oh and PLA too.
Thanks Jetty :)

phineasjw on Oct 21, 2012 said:

My Replicator 1 is running great at 120mm/s with this firmware. 

My only real issue so far is that the left nozzle offset seems to be ignored.  When I print things with the left extruder they are 33mm too far to the left.  What am I missing? 

Thanks again for helping me get my Replicator 1 working closer to what I had expected when I bought it.

LiquidBeef on Oct 21, 2012 said:

I haven't tried Sailfish yet, butu I'm having this same issue with my standard stock Replicator firmware since upgrading to 6.0. Figured it might be worth mentioning while you folks troubleshoot.. 

eboule on Oct 21, 2012 said:

I have the exact same issue... and I am also interested in a solution.

imberiman on Oct 20, 2012 said:

I am running a thing o matic with a mk6+ extruder, and a heated build platform.  I have done the firmware updates and installed the new repg29 sailfish.  Under the Machine Type Driver there is no sailfish option for a mk6 extruder.  The only options are:

Volumetric
Accelerated Volumetric
Accelerated
and one that doesn't have anything behind it. 

Thanks in advance for your help.

dnewman on Oct 20, 2012 said:

You can use a Thing-o-Matic w/ HBP MK7 (Sailfish).  There's not difference (that matters).  Also, consider joining the jetty-firmware mailing list at google groups as we posted the definitions for said machine there just yesterday.  (However, you don't really need them.)

TheRuttmeister on Oct 20, 2012 said:

Any chance you can post this somewhere other than Thingiverse? Some people would like to try it on RAMPS based 3D printers, and companies can't help with that so long as this is only available via Thingiverse. 

dnewman on Oct 20, 2012 said:

The firmware runs on RepRap Gen 3, Gen 4 electronics and MBI's MightyBoard 1.5e.  It doesn't run on modern RAMPS.  However, it's available at github.  See github.com/jetty840/ for the various Repos.

gpvillamil on Oct 19, 2012 said:

Remarkable. Thank you so much.

Accelerated prints at 120mm/s show no ringing at all. MBI v6.0 at 80mm/s showed quite a bit of ringing.

BenitoSanduchi on Oct 18, 2012 said:

I just finished repairing and adding some upgrade parts to a client's Thing-o-Matic.  Prints were still lackluster.  
Then I upgraded it to Sailfish.  I had no idea a TOM could print so fast or so well.  Amazing difference.  Thanks for your hard work!

matrhint on Oct 18, 2012 said:

Added this to my TOM last night and I believe that what has been done is as good as home 3d printing can get. There have been times when I have seen other's prints and thought: my printer should be able to do this or print this well, but it won't--now it can and it does. Thank you.

ratfink on Oct 18, 2012 said:

WOW! Thank you so much for your hard work on this. My replicator is a completely new machine, I can not thank you enough!

LiquidBeef on Oct 22, 2012 said:

If you don't mind me asking, what's so different about it? I haven't made the plunge yet on my Rep 1, I just can't seem to wrap my head around the benefits.

mojitopower on Oct 17, 2012 said:

Hi

thanks for the new firmware, it looks really nice!I have a replicator and was trying to upload the new firmware, but the mightyboard does not show up as an option. If I change the URL back to the original mb site, it does show up. please help!Im running mac btw. 
Also, can you still use maker ware with this firmware or do you have to  roll back to the previous version?Thanks again!

dnewman on Oct 18, 2012 said:

1. As noted, Sailfish for the Replicator 1 was temp. unavailable on 17 October.  With the assistance of some field testers, the leveling script issue was resolved and new version became available that evening.  So repoint your download URL at the sailfish site (http://jettyfirmware.yolasite.... and you should be good to go.

2. You can generate gcode for Sailfish in MakerWare.  HOWEVER, you need to then save that gcode to a file and have ReplicatorG 39 - Sailfish open the file and generate the s3g file (SD card) or send the commands over USB to the Replicator equipped with Sailfish.   Since Makerbot is adopting the new motion commands that Sailfish is using (and RepG 39 - Sailfish generates), we expect to see a release of MakerWare which will support Sailfish.  (Keep in mind also that MakerWare is still in beta.)

Grimatoma on Oct 18, 2012 said:

The Replicator 1 version of the Sailfish firmware has temporarily been withdrawn pending resolution of the leveling script issue

apexio on Oct 17, 2012 said:

I've noticed that the Pause function in the LCD resumes with a 2mm Y-axis offset about 50% of the time, ruining the build. :(

apexio on Oct 23, 2012 said:

Solved! My Y-axis offset was off by 2mm, causing the extruder carriage to hit the stop at the back of the machine when there was still movement to be made.  When I resumed the print, the extruder would travel back to the printing item but would be in the wrong place by the same amount of movement it wasn't able to make during the pause phase.  I increased by Y-axis offset by 2.5mm in the Utilities menu on the Rep1 and it's fixed.

dnewman on Oct 20, 2012 said:

1. If this is on a Replicator, then ensure that you've upgraded to build r650 of the Sailfish firmware for the Replicator.

2. Make sure that your gcode starts with a "M103" and "M73 P0".  That's a requirement (and done by the default start gcode).

beowulfkaine on Oct 17, 2012 said:

Sorry I just have to comment again, my prints have been STUPID AMAZING since I used this firmware, I seriously can't believe how much of an improvement there has been, a huge thank you for your effort!

Grimatoma on Oct 17, 2012 said:

Does anyone know why when i try to upgrade my firmware though replicatorG sailfish 0039 does the mightyboard not show up?
I have a dual replication1 and i only see 3 boards listed

dnewman on Oct 18, 2012 said:

That was the temporary withdrawal of the Replicator version. (Which you since discovered; I'm just replying here for the benefit of others.)  A new version has been posted.

bean on Oct 17, 2012 said:

Wow - what a difference.  The acceleration makes the movements so smooth - undoubtedly extending the life of my Replicator1.  It's fast, smooth, quiet and produces great results.  Thanks for all the hard work Jetty!

toreg on Oct 17, 2012 said:

So awesome on my rep1!! Please add a flattr button here if you have an account!

dcweng on Oct 17, 2012 said:

The best TOM firmware!!!  Thank you very much.  My TOM finally prints what I ask for.

beowulfkaine on Oct 17, 2012 said:

This has really improved my prints and REALLY quieted down my printer, I almost have to check on it to see if its STILL printing! Used to I could hear it form the other side of the house, now its all quiet and FAST! Thanks again! Great Work!!!!!

Quyzi on Oct 17, 2012 said:

You are a genius Jetty! My ToM has never been better! This should be on all ToM's. I'd be happy to donate to the cause. Do you accept paypal donations? 

apexio on Oct 16, 2012 said:

Thank you.  Installation was a snap and the documentation is great.  My Replicator v1 just purrrrs now!

jebba on Oct 16, 2012 said:

Thank you for releasing this under a Free Software license. :)

heathzap on Oct 16, 2012 said:

First off a big thank you to Jetty and team for this firmware. I have installed it on my Rep1 and impressed so far with results. Like Harlock I printed off the calibration cube after slicing it with 0 and 1 shell. These were both 0.1mm 100% infill at 60/80 feedrates. Don't seem to be able to attach the pic of these here but the one with 0 shells and slightly faster made a perfect 10mm high cube. The other was a little higher. Neither cube is 20x20mm though - more like 20.3 x 20.2mm. I would like to get the StepsPerMM setting right but confused as to how to do this?

Also, my extrusion def needs tweaking. Lines across the bed seem worse than lines down the bed (not sure what axes these are - i would call them X and Y). The top of the cube is dimpled and each side of the cube has a slightly different line pattern.

I posted a comment on the Support forum so maybe others can comment.

dnewman on Oct 18, 2012 said:

To calibrate your cube dimensions, you tweak the stepspermm in the .xml file.  But, everytime you upgrade RepG your tweaks will get lost if you edit the distributed xml file.  So, what you want to do is to make your own copy of the file.  The directions below are for a Mac but are largely applicable to Linux as well.  I'm not a Windows user so the file locations won't be correct for Windows.

1. Open a terminal window (Applications > Utilities > Terminal).  You can do this from the finder as well, but you then need to right click on Applications / ReplicatorG.app to get the finder to let you drill down into the contents of that otherwise hidden folder.

2. From the terminal window, issue the two commands shown below.  The first command may give you a warning indicating that the directory already exists.  That's okay.

% mkdir -p ~/.replicatorg/machines/
% cp /Applications/ReplicatorG.app/Contents/Resources/machines/replicator.xml ~/.replicatorg/machines/

3. Using a text editor, edit the file ~/.replicatorg/machines/replicator.xml.  You want to end up with just one machine definition which looks like that below.  Note the name change from "The Replicator Dual" to "The Replicator Dual (Private)".  Use whatever name you want; just something different than the standard names.  Save the file and then start (or restart) RepG.  You should see this new name appear under Machine > Machine Type (Driver).  If it does not show up, then there's probably a typo in the file which makes it syntactically invalid XML.


<machines>
  <machine experimental="0">
    <name>The Replicator Dual (Private)</name>
    <geometry type="cartesian">
     
      <axis endstops="max" homingfeedrate="2500" id="x" length="227" maxfeedrate="18000" stepspermm="94.139704">  
      <axis endstops="max" homingfeedrate="2500" id="y" length="148" maxfeedrate="18000" stepspermm="94.139704">  
      <axis endstops="min" homingfeedrate="1100" id="z" length="150" maxfeedrate="1170" stepspermm="400">
      <axis endstops="none" id="a" length="100000" maxfeedrate="1600" stepspermm="96.275201870333662468889989185642">
      <axis endstops="none" id="b" length="100000" maxfeedrate="1600" stepspermm="96.275201870333662468889989185642">
    </axis></axis></axis></axis></axis></geometry>
    <tools>
      <tool default_rpm="3" diameter="0.4" fan="true" heater="true" index="1" model="Mk8" motor="true" motor_steps="3200" name="Mk8 Left" stepper_axis="b" type="extruder"  heatedplatform="false">
      <tool default_rpm="3" diameter="0.4" fan="true" heatedplatform="true" heater="true" index="0" model="Mk8" motor="true" motor_steps="3200" name="Mk8 Right" stepper_axis="a" type="extruder">
    </tool></tool></tools>
    <wipes>
      <wipe index="0" purge_duration="1000" purge_rpm="5.0" reverse_duration="15" reverse_rpm="35.0" wait="1000.0" x1="-135.0" x2="-135.0" y1="55.0" y2="45.0">
      <wipe index="1" purge_duration="1000" purge_rpm="5.0" reverse_duration="15" reverse_rpm="35.0" wait="1000.0" x1="-135.0" x2="-135.0" y1="55.0" y2="45.0">
  </wipe></wipe></wipes>
  <offsets>
    <offset xnozzle="33.0" ynozzle="0.0" znozzle="0.0">
  </offset></offsets>
  <clamps></clamps>
  <driver name="mightyboard">
   
    <rate>115200</rate>
  </driver>
  <warmup>
  </warmup>
  <cooldown>
    M18 (Turn off steppers after a build.)
  </cooldown>
  <bookend dualstart="machines/replicator/Dualstrusion_start.gcode" end="machines/replicator/end.gcode" start="machines/replicator/Dual_Head_start.gcode">
  </bookend></machine>
</machines>

4. Now that you have your own machine definition, you can edit the stepspermm for the X and Y axis.  If you increase the value, then the bot will execute more steps to move a fixed distance.  Decreasing the value causes the bot to execute fewer steps for a fixed distance.  But what to change it to?  If the distance should be D but you measure a distance d then multiply the current stepspermm by the ratio D/d.  If d > D, then the ratio will be less than 1 and you will decrease the stepspermm causing the bot to take fewer steps.  Similarly, if d < D, then the ratio will be larger than 1 and you will increase the stepspermm.  After editing the xml file to change the stepspermm, you must exit ReplicatorG and restart it.  (ReplicatorG only reads the xml files when it launches.)  You do not need to regenerate the gcode.  You only need to resend the gcode to the bot.  After printing again, measure the new resulting distance d (e.g., width, height, or length) and recalculate D/d.  After a couple of iterations, you should have the stepspermm values dialed in fairly well.

mar-x on Oct 16, 2012 said:

Updated my REP dual this morning with Sailfish and OMG.

for starters .. my REP doesn't  sound like a plotter from the 80's anymore. Is quite literally flies along.

All the problems I encountered with the 6.0 firmware are resolved.

The instillation guide is easy to follow and the setup guide was both helpful and self explanatory. Ill be refining the acc parameters for the rest of the day. So far Im as excited with this as I was when my Makerbot arrived!!!!

Thanks Jetty you made my day!!

pardasaniman on Oct 16, 2012 said:

Hi! 
I have a ToM MK6, and can't find the selection for sailfish under machine type.

I can see sailfish options for mk7 and cupcake though. Any ideas?

hellphish on Oct 16, 2012 said:

There isn't a definition for ToM mk6, but it is the same as the mk7 because they use the same motor and toothed pulley. The only difference would be the default RPM, which I believe is only used by the control panel in repg.

beowulfkaine on Oct 16, 2012 said:

make sure you change the firmware location (step before that one) or it will just pull firmware from default location

Harlock on Oct 16, 2012 said:

Looks very promising! The Replicator is much more quiet and shakes even much less than the 5.5 accelerated settings. Few issues I've noted:
- For Replicator users with dual extruders, make screen shots of every Onboard preferences prior to upgrading the firmware. The new firmware tends to wipe lots of parameters and I didn't notice any specific instructions toward this beside writing down the accel parameters.
- I have dual extruder and the X offset for the Left extruder/B axis isn't applied. The setting is correct as I took screenshots of the 5.5 defaults prior to upgrade.
- Extruders temp are locked to 220degC even if the Print-O-Matic and GCode sets them to 230degC. There might be a relation with the preheating function from the LCD panel.
- In Machine/Onboard preferences/Endstops tab/Invert endstops, the original firmware called for Inverted setting. Now this firmware doesn't accept it: I can set it & commit, reboot the machine, but it defaults back to no end stops.
- I've lowered the max speed change for XY to 10mm/s. Makes the machine even more smooth in its operation, maybe detrimental to the actual speed performance but that's my compromise for now :)
- I'd really like more info on the calibration. The instructions suggest to bypass Print-o-matic, but it's the only way I know for now :/ Could we get a link for the howto on manual gcode generation in the calibration instruction (including setting width/thickness ratio)? My test cubes unaccelerated are domed at the top (11.58mm high), suggesting too much ABS being fed. On the other hand, the accelerated version is much better with a slight dome giving a cube of 10.51mm high.

Doogiekr on Oct 16, 2012 said:

Jetty or Dan could probably answer these better, but they are no doubt very busy at the moment, so I will answer what I can from my experience...

- Extruders temp are locked to 220degC even if the Print-O-Matic and GCode sets them to 230degC. There might be a relation with the preheating function from the LCD panel.

This is by design... there is an option to override gcode temp which allows you to control/tune your temp settings from the LCD without having to reslice your print every time (its very nice)... and yes, what it does is use whatever you have set for your preheat temp as the temp you want for printing.
- In Machine/Onboard preferences/Endstops tab/Invert endstops, the original firmware called for Inverted setting. Now this firmware doesn't accept it: I can set it & commit, reboot the machine, but it defaults back to no end stops.

From talking with Jetty, this is ignored and so there is no need to worry about it, from what I can tell its because it has manual switches that are going to work no matter what the gcode or firmware tells it to do.
- I've lowered the max speed change for XY to 10mm/s. Makes the machine even more smooth in its operation, maybe detrimental to the actual speed performance but that's my compromise for now :)

Before changing anything, you might want to give the defaults for "fine" a try. Make sure you use the defaults for printing as well (120mm/s) ... from my testing the Sailfish firmware is actually BETTER at faster speeds than at slower ones but YRMV
- I'd really like more info on the calibration. The instructions suggest to bypass Print-o-matic, but it's the only way I know for now :/ Could we get a link for the howto on manual gcode generation in the calibration instruction (including setting width/thickness ratio)? My test cubes unaccelerated are domed at the top (11.58mm high), suggesting too much ABS being fed. On the other hand, the accelerated version is much better with a slight dome giving a cube of 10.51mm high.

actually Print-O-Matic works great... I think the setup is more geared for ToM than Rep1... but again, Jetty or Dan would know better. You can find tuning info here http://wiki.makerbot.com/jetty... 

If you have too much being fed, for a temp fix you can raise the filament diameter in PoM and that will cause less to extrude, or you can tune your machine using the xml files... here is a quote from a post from Dan and Jetty about how to do it...

"What I'm doing on the Replicator which solves the flow/filament 
diameter and negates the need to tune 
when changing filament is: 

1. Measure the filament diameter and punch in and generate a 
calibration cube. 

2. Tune the A/B axis in the xml file (A = Left, B = Right).  Increase 
if the flow is too low, 
decrease if it's too high.  I tune in units of 1 and finally 0.5. 

Now you have your pinch gears / extruder flow rate tuned.  When you 
get a new plastic, 
just measure the diameter and punch it into printomatic and you're 
done.  No more flow rate 
tuning. 

(there's a bug in SF50 with hexagon fill, use line fill for the 
purposes of this tuning, 
or you'll think you have the correct 100% fill when you don't). 

Temperature / feed rate are less critical.  But, if I'm printing at 
100-120mm/s 
I'll go 240C for ABS, and 245-250C for 150mm/s.  Failing that, bridge 
tests are 
a good indicator of temperature."

Sorry about the long post... just wanted to try to help if I could =)

Doogiekr on Oct 15, 2012 said:

Video of my replicator 1 printing at 200mm/s (280mm/s travel)... such a huge improvement .... my Rep1 used to shake like it was going to fall apart if I printed at more than 50mm/s and now it doesn't even bat an eye at 200mm/s. The sound of the fan is louder than most of the printing moves now (as you can hear in the video).
 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v...
 
Thank you for such a great upgrade to my printer!

Crypto on Oct 15, 2012 said:

Like it a lot, thanks for the effort!
TOM Mk6 extr.
Any idea where the outline has gone that primes the extruder before hitting the first layer?

gwygonik on Oct 15, 2012 said:

That is the "Skirt" option in Skeinforge.

You'll need to go into "Edit Slicing Profiles" menu option, select the profile you are using (you can duplicate it if you want to save the original), then select "Edit...". Once inside the profile, go to the "Skirt" option, and enable it. You'll get the outline back. Press "Save All" at the bottom of the screen, close the profile, select "Done" from the initial dialog, and re-slice your object (be sure to select your edited version, if you duplicated the original and renamed it).

Hope that helps.

bottleworks on Oct 15, 2012 said:

Working great so far....  Thanks for your months of hard work!!  Do you do a Paypal donation?

laird on Oct 15, 2012 said:

Having an odd behavior with Sailfish. I printed calibration cubes (derivative:41258) and they came out fine, but then I printed something tricker (derivative:41257) and it has odd ripples. It might have been mechanical vibration. The print head was visibly jerking around as if it was following a sine wave around a circle (like following the moon's orbit around the Sun) rather than following a clean circle. The pattern is consistent the whole way up the sites. and all the way around the object. The ripples are on both the inside and outside, evenly spaced all the way around the object (which is circular). The Gcode (as viewed in Pleasant3D) looks perfectly circular. Any ideas? Since the Gcode is fine, I'm guessing it's not the object or Skeinforge, which leaves either mechanical or firmware. Any ideas?

jetty on Oct 15, 2012 said:

Looking at that file, the surround is made up of lots of little lines.  Those junctions will become more pronounced if you slow down the print speed, or have a less than optimal K / K2.   Try tuning both of those first and printing at 120mm/s

njkl44 on Oct 15, 2012 said:

Is this something that could work on the Printrbot?

jetty on Oct 15, 2012 said:

Theoretically it could work on ramps, but it would have to be ported.

graphicsforge on Oct 15, 2012 said:

This is fantastic!  I cannot be any more impressed by how completely this fixes all my problems.  My replicator now whistles while it works rather than quivering and shaking through the processes!

jstiltner on Oct 15, 2012 said:

My poor little cupcake would love this firmware!  I am trying to nurse it through printing itsself a stepper extruder.

jetty on Oct 15, 2012 said:

Checkout the Jetty Forum

thecrazy on Oct 15, 2012 said:

I dont know much about firmwares beside marlin and sprinter, could someone tell me if this would this work on ramps electronics? And what are the advantages of this over marlin?

Thank you.

jetty on Oct 15, 2012 said:

It could do if ported.  It's faster than Marlin and more accurate.  This firmware is the Marlin Acceleration + a number of bug fixes + replacement algorithms for jerk + a working advance.

Kirkw on Oct 14, 2012 said:

Wow! This is truly a bundle of awesomeness.  My replicator1 has never moved as fast, smooth and graceful as it does now.  Hats off to you gentlemen!

PropellerScience on Oct 15, 2012 said:

 I agree, this is like having a whole new Replicator. By far the most awesome thing I've seen on Thingiverse to date.

wishmaker on Oct 14, 2012 said:

I have a cupcake it has the gen 3 electronics and was wondering if sailfish will work on it and if I can get it to work on a rep-rap like the Huxley and will it work with ponterface or repetier or rep-snapper that's
the host software I'm using with my Huxley 

MacGyver on Oct 14, 2012 said:

Here's another print I just finished with http://i.imgur.com/Jj2cQ.jpg the green skull was printed with the old Jetty firmware at .30mm layer height and the blue one was just printed this morning with sailfish firmware at .10mm layer height.

bkubicek on Oct 14, 2012 said:

are there any videos? The 120mm/sec in the images I find not so impressive, I can do over 200 on an ultimaker if well lubricated

BenRockhold on Oct 15, 2012 said:

The 'advertised' speed of all of these printers is a pretty worthless metric, what actually matters is the acceleration rates and implementation on the micro-controller. Most microcontollers can easily provide more than enough steps/second, so the maximum speeds are really just based on the length of the movement and the acceleration rates. Print speed is dependent on the toolhead. 
It means little to nothing to compare the rates specified in the slicing program as printer specs.

laird on Oct 14, 2012 said:

The impressive thing about the Jetty firmware is that does quite a few amazing things, including print 50% faster than the standard firmware (and 3x faster than the same hardware a year ago) and is purely a software change.

GeraldO on Oct 14, 2012 said:

Thanks to everyone involved in this firmware. It has helped me reach a new level of awesome with my Replicator prints!

cerberus333 on Oct 14, 2012 said:

the pictures of replicator prints are very impressive.
I will have to install this.
the print quality is really paramount to me.
this seems to be a big improvement.
 

MacGyver on Oct 14, 2012 said:

Check out the photos I posted below from my Thing-O-Matic. I'm completely blown away with how much better my prints are coming out.

MacGyver on Oct 14, 2012 said:

I'm blown away!  Here's another example of the excellent results you can get with this new firmware.  I'm running a TOM.

From left to right .30 layer height with the old Jetty Firmware then .20 with Sailfish and then dark blue is .10 with sailfish (it took 45 minutes to print)  These models are only 3.5cm tall.

http://i.imgur.com/BFN8n.jpg

MacGyver on Oct 13, 2012 said:

Check this out.  I printed the blue dragon with the old Jetty firmware at .30 level height yesterday and just finished up the green one today with this firmware at .20 level height.

http://i.imgur.com/5OU59.jpg

jetty on Oct 13, 2012 said:

Sweet, we hadn't done any Tom Jetty versus Sailfish comparisons.  We new it was better than before, it's nice to see the comparison.

I've added some comparison images to this thing between 5.5, 6.0 and Sailfish.

MacGyver on Oct 13, 2012 said:

Great job once again Jetty!  Installation was pretty straight forward and easy.  
The only issue I found was using the calibration script on my TOM it seems to set X and Y home to the same value but since I had recorded those values before the upgrade all I had to do was retype them in and I'm printing like a champ.

jetty on Oct 13, 2012 said:

Are you talking about the calibration menu item on the ToM's LCD, or something else?

UechiMike on Oct 13, 2012 said:

A couple notes not covered in the installation instructions:

If you installed a makerware beta you need to remove the "conveyor" process so you can upload the new firmware.  On a mac run the following:

/Library/Frameworks/MakerBot.framework/MakerBot/makerbot-uninstall.sh

The kill any process named "conveyor" or "_conveyor".

I had a question on 

Step 1b: Invert your extruderReplicator operators skip this step. If you were previously using 5D — the makerbot4g driver — then you should skip this step as well. However, if you were previously not using 5D, then you must invert your extruder's direction of operation. Do this via ReplicatorG's Onboard Preferences window,I was running Jetty before and everything worked perfectly - but am not sure if I need to invert the extruder axis.  If I do invert the axis then when I hit forward in the control panel my extruder is going in reverse...so I'm guessing leaving it unchecked is what I want to do.

dnewman on Oct 13, 2012 said:

Turns out you can launch MakerWare, then stop Conveyor using the "Services" menu.  Conveyor stays stopped even after MakerWare is exited.  I've documented that approach on the install section of the wiki.

jetty on Oct 13, 2012 said:

Thanks for the heads up, I'll forward the information to Dan.

Regarding the extruder inversion you didn't say what your hardware is or what you're using before.

But basically, if it's wrong, then when you print, you'll get no extrusion.  If that's the case, flip it and it will solve it.

Replicators you don't need to do this, because it prints using 5D from the factory, so they've already set the correct extruder direction.

If you had a ToM, then it depends.  If you were following our recommendations of not using 5D back then and haven't changed the driver, then you'll need to invert it for Sailfish.  Otherwise you likely won't.

The reason at the root of this is that non-5D extruders when the extruder steps are positive, and when they released 5D, they change that direction to extrude when negative.

Either way, if it don't work, flip it.

toybuilder on Oct 13, 2012 said:

p.s. Holy-moly that's a really nice surface finish on the tag!

toybuilder on Oct 13, 2012 said:

Bravo!  Thanks again, Jetty!

thecrazy on Oct 13, 2012 said:

no github?

UechiMike on Oct 13, 2012 said:

Sweet!  I wonder how fast my ToM will go now.  I've been running jetty for a while and it prints better than the stock firmware at higher speeds.  I took a big push to go jetty before.  Post a vid of it printing!

I hate changing when I have everything dialed in...but perhaps I will.

jetty on Oct 13, 2012 said:

Just save all your settings and upgrade.  It's not too difficult and easier than Jetty was on ToM.  There's a significant print improvement between Jetty on ToM and Sailfish.

cymon on Oct 13, 2012 said:

Obligatory dual extruder support question?

jetty on Oct 13, 2012 said:

We hear ya.  We tried to maintain 5.5's menu layout initially. As the firmware evolves, we'll be making User Interface changes to make it faster to work with it.

jetty on Oct 13, 2012 said:

The image in this thing was printed on a Replicator 1 at 1200mm/s and 100Micron (0.1mm layer height) using Sailfish firmware.  It was printed with PrintOMatic.  No sanding or post processing, it's exactly as you see.

thecrazy on Oct 13, 2012 said:

1200? you meant 120 I guess.

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