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domekit 2V

by EFFALO, published

domekit 2V by EFFALO May 25, 2010

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Description

this is a connector design for assembling a 2V geodesic dome structure. based off the wizardry of c60's original Dome Connector, we've improved the design by shaping the hexagonal connectors like hexagons, and the pentagonal ones like pentagons — making it much easier to visually differentiate between the two different connector types. additionally, we've added pairing notches above the 16° B-length struts on both connector shapes, to help accelerate assembly.

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Although having some drawbacks, a good source of *very* strong struts is the shafts from discarded golf clubs. Check out your local goodwill / second hand shops, where you can find these at very low prices. Modern clubs are usually made of carbon fiber composites and are very light and very rigid.

The drawbacks, of course, are that the shafts are typically tapered and so you won't have a "standard" sized end.

Greta work and great links, thanks!!!

although the struts can be of any length, this connector design works best on small domes, which can be very light and strong. we've been using dowels, but it's not the best all weather solution, obviously. tent poles are another possibility, if you can source enough of them.

some of this is documented here: http://spaceframe.tumblr.com

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Instructions

to make a dome, you'll need 26 connectors (20 hexagons and 6 pentagons) and 65 struts (35 of length A and 30 of length B).

to make a sphere, you'll need only six more pentagons (for a total of 32 connectors) and 60 each of strut lengths A and B.

this design uses 10mm holes that fit 3/8" hardwood dowels quite nicely, but feel free to adjust the script to your liking. to determine your strut lengths, use a calculator:

desertdomes.com/dome2calc.html
simplydifferently.org/Geodesic_Dome_Notes?page=3#2V/L2

and refer to this diagram for assembly:

desertdomes.com/graphics/dome/2vdiagram.gif

Comments

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creatr on Feb 13, 2014 said:

Although having some drawbacks, a good source of *very* strong struts is the shafts from discarded golf clubs. Check out your local goodwill / second hand shops, where you can find these at very low prices. Modern clubs are usually made of carbon fiber composites and are very light and very rigid.

The drawbacks, of course, are that the shafts are typically tapered and so you won't have a "standard" sized end.

ren758 on Nov 29, 2010 said:

Any suggestions for building? Rod suggestions/sources?

Covering suggestions for temp and perm structures?

Strong enough for thin plywood?

EFFALO on Dec 1, 2010 said:

although the struts can be of any length, this connector design works best on small domes, which can be very light and strong. we've been using dowels, but it's not the best all weather solution, obviously. tent poles are another possibility, if you can source enough of them.

some of this is documented here: http://spaceframe.tumblr.com

woofpickle on Nov 21, 2010 said:

I'm watching my Cupcake print it's first pentagon, and like three layers in it started doing what I thought was the nozzle running into a blob. Turns out it was only making the turns for the holes. Silly me!

ren758 on Nov 16, 2010 said:

I printed a single hex on the RapMan-dual head. PLA as raft, ABS as material. 235 for the PLA (to fuse hard to the surface) and 250 for the ABS (to fuse hard to the PLA) 50% fill density, 3 shells over 4 layers. Came out with no warp.

However - trying the multiple command in Skeinforge was not as successful. For some reason - multiples at the same settings warp like crazy. I will post when I get a multiple run.

EFFALO on Nov 17, 2010 said:

awesome, thanks for sharing the details.

tbuser on May 26, 2010 said:

I think you mean the holes are 10mm (3/8") not 5mm. :)

EFFALO on May 26, 2010 said:

yes! of course, diameter = radius * 2! will update the description... thanks!

DementedChihuahua on May 25, 2010 said:

I'm not really gonna be able to print that effectively what with the overhangs. Maybe make it in two parts so I have to print only stuff that doesn't overhang? Cool idea though.

Demented

EFFALO on May 25, 2010 said:

the holes are teardrops and actually print quite nicely on a makerbot! i haven't run into any overhang issues.

EricHunting on May 25, 2010 said:

This is nice node design. You might also want to look into the Universal Node System geometry proposed by Peter Pearce. This is an alternative to the Fuller geometry based on a rhombicuboctahedron node. It was developed as the basis of the building system Min-A-Max which later became used in the Biosphere II. It's interesting in its ability to support enclosure frames like the geodesic, planar/deck trusses, trusses, and space-filling space frames all with the same node geometry. Min-A-Max developed into a rather elaborate system but the core UNS was capable of some novel flowing building forms that went beyond the dome.

http://radio-weblogs.com/01190...
http://radio-weblogs.com/01190...
http://radio-weblogs.com/01190...

These are from the book Structure In Nature Is A Strategy For Design. I've often wondered why more people don't experiment wit
h this, though it may be that it's just not well known.

commons_factory on Jul 30, 2011 said:

Greta work and great links, thanks!!!

dave_menninger on May 26, 2010 said:

For some practical experiments with this system, check out http://n55.dk/MANUALS/Manuals.... and specifically http://n55.dk/MANUALS/SPACEFRA...

EFFALO on May 25, 2010 said:

wow, awesome, thanks... i was completely unaware of this system, thanks for pointing it out!

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