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Under-Cupboard Lighting Mount

by logan, published

Under-Cupboard Lighting Mount by logan Oct 11, 2012

Description

This is a mounting bracket for thing http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:27550, a 3W, high-power LED lighting board. Use these to mount the LEDs to the bottom of your cupboards and illuminate the countertop below. This mount screws into the bottom of the cup

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Instructions

Bill of Materials:

1 x mounting bracket (printed)

1 x assembled http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:27550

3x #6x1/4" countersunk-head wood screws

1x small 12V power supply

2x Molex 4-pin KK connectors and wire for daisy chaining as needed

Assembly:

Print out a mounting bracket

Assemble and test the LED board

Using the center hole, screw the mounting bracket into the bottom of the cabinet at the desired location with the open side facing the wall. If your cupboards are particle board, a wood screw will basically self-tap, otherwise drill a small pilot hole with a 5/64" drill bit.

With the power connectors facing backwards towards the open side, screw the LED board to the bracket in two corners diagonal to each other using #6 wood screws (they should easily thread into the plastic without cracking it.

Connect power, and daisy chain as needed

To Daisy chain, simply make a pass-through molex cable for power (you only need to connect two wires, the +12V and either ground).

Tips and Tricks

I found placing modules about 18" apart provided good countertop lighting; you probably don't want to go much closer than 12".

If you plan your layout before completely assembling the LED boards, you can save yourself some time, hassle, and parts by directly soldering daisy chained boards together with wire rather than soldering on KK connectors and making Molex cables.

You can use any 12V power supply to power the modules. It will need ~350mA (or 4W) per module. I used a 12V wall wort from Radio Shack I had lying around, though the Internet and Ebay sell various 12V supplies for <$20. Simply cut off the existing plug on any 12V supply and wire it into a Molex connector (or directly solder it to an LED board)

The walls of the mount are designed to keep the LEDs from being directly visible from a distance (they're uncomfortably bright if you look at them directly). There are two notches in the side walls to accommodate the first version of the LED boards that had the power connectors on the side. You can use Sketchup to remove these notches if your LED boards have the power connectors on the back.

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