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Rostock LED light ring

by jasonatepaint, published

Rostock LED light ring by jasonatepaint Oct 15, 2012

Description

I quickly got sick of bending over with a flashlight to get a good look at my prints. I was hoping to use those easy 3M LED light strips, but with the shape of the Rostock platform, they just weren't going to work.

My first rev used regular 20mA white LEDs but the heat from the hotend caused the leds to fail one-by-one until they were all gone or flickering.

I landed on some 1-watt LEDs that I'm running at a lower "wattage". I tried them cranked all the way up, but 3 at full power was absolutely blinding.

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maybe run a small POT between the supply and the fixture you could regulate brightness....

THX. I was not able to get your proposed LEDs. For other builders: I substituted to High-Power SMD-LED 1 W Avago Technologies ASMT-AN00-NTUK1. They fit nicely.

Thanks! When I was in 5th grade art class there were a few kids who drank the paint when Mrs Taylor wasn't looking. My friend Jason was one of them. I remember him rushing to wipe it off his face before she turned around.

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Instructions

Required:

* 3 x 1-watt LED lights (http://www.amazon.com/microtivity-IL726-1-watt-Ultra-bright-White/dp/B0085MOZYW/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1350344791&sr=1-2&keywords=microtivity+1-watt+led)
* hookup wire
* A resistor (depends on your preference). Lowest value you can go with 3 LEDS wired in a series like these is 8.2ohm. I landed on 33ohm, as these are super bright and the full 3 watts was blinding.

Look at the pictures, but it's pretty simple. Wire these in series with the resistor on the positive side.

Additionally, I used a 1/4" drill bit to clean out the LED holes.

NOTE: DO NOT connect these LEDs to a power source without a resistor.



If you'd like a softer look, take some sand paper and gently rub the outer plastic lens. It'll diffuse the light softening it.

I printed this in polycarbonate so I used pseudo support because regular support attaches to your finished print and PC is way too strong for that.

Comments

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HarshReality on Apr 6, 2013 said:

maybe run a small POT between the supply and the fixture you could regulate brightness....

jasonatepaint on Jan 16, 2013 said:

I wired it into the power supply w/a switch to turn the lights on independently. On my homebuilt Rostock, I use that flat 30A PSU and no PWM(PID) for my hotend and the LEDs light up w/o issue. However, when using the PSU on my RostockMAX, which uses a regular computer PSU and the hotend using PID temp controller, I find that when the arduino is pulsing the voltage to the hotend, it causes the lights to flicker slightly in sync with the LED flashing on the arduino.

barnett on Jan 17, 2013 said:

Thanks! When I was in 5th grade art class there were a few kids who drank the paint when Mrs Taylor wasn't looking. My friend Jason was one of them. I remember him rushing to wipe it off his face before she turned around.

barnett on Jan 16, 2013 said:

I want to try this on Saturday. What's power source ? Some of the extra 12v wires from the main power supply and a separate on/off switch? Or are the lights on whenever the power supply is on?

Highcooley on Jan 3, 2013 said:

Wow, great design! Could you please figure out the manufacturer and part nr. of the LEDs for me? As a non US citizen, I cannot order the recommended Amazon article. THX

jasonatepaint on Jan 16, 2013 said:

Sorry for not responding sooner... I forgot. :-) The model is: microtivity IL726 1-watt Ultra-bright White LED

Any set of 1-watt LEDs should work.

lazerusrm on Dec 12, 2012 said:

Kicks the crap out of leaning over with a flashlight. OMG

lazerusrm on Dec 11, 2012 said:

Awesome! i will post some pics of mine in a bit.

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