My version of the LYMAN FILAMENT EXTRUDER
by bottleworks, published
This is my version of the "LYMAN FILAMENT EXTRUDER".
This version has a:
- Larger Hot end with 350 Watt heater
- Automatic timing system
- fan ducting
- Modified sprokets and hopper
- Adjustable motor speed on the control panel.
Basics of how it works: Flip on the main switch. This turns on the cooling fan. Then press the red Momentary pushbutton. This activates a 1 second timer that gets latched on and begins the motor timer set for 20 minutes. The latched 1 second timer powers the relay that powers the PID. I used the 1 second timer because I wanted the control mechanics as I made them. Unnecessarily complex, but it's what I wanted.
If you take a look at the parts I used, you might see a lot of dollar signs. The parts that I used were mostly free. I endup collecting a lot of stuff that gets deemed "broken" or otherwise would have been thrown away.
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These files are posted to give some ideas to those who are making an extruder. This is by no means a "how to" or anything of the sort.
The STL and sketchup files are included. I hope some will find the data useful.
I'll add on to why I made the changes that I made after some sleep...
I've added a photo of the Rev B hot end. I haven't had time to do anything 3d printer related in the past few weeks, so as far as I have gotten.
I figure I would add this here incase it gets lost...
I started changing somethings around with the extruder. I installed the refined hot end. I changed the hardware to studs for easier mounting. I was going to make a new insulator until I realized that I didn't need it. Air is the best insulator, so with the steel tubing between the hot end and the hopper side, it makes a nice air separation. I've added two photos of it. An issue that I have been having is with the filament getting twisted and jammed in the cooling duct. I did some testing and devised a solution. There needs to be two guides at the outlet. This keeps the filament from arcing too high in the duct. I'll be posting the STL for that soon.
For a BOM, I would look at the original Lyman extruder. I used the same thrust washer, bushing, tubing (DON"T USE LOWES/HOME DEPOT BLACK PIPE), drill bit, etc. For the heater, I used P/N G1442594 available from zorotools.com . The PID was the cheapest USA shipped one I could find on eBay (Item # 150853795607) [I Didn't want to wait 3 weeks from China]. The thermocouple can be found on eBay (Item # 400352110948). The voltage regulator is on eBay (Item #160739335951). I used a different one without a voltage display. I see no need to know what the voltage is.
The drill bit for the nozzle is a #52. The POT on the dash/control panel which controls the motor speed is soldered (via harness) to where is original POT is on the board. I also piggy back the original POT to the dash one to adjust the MIN/MAX of the dash POT. If I only had the one on the dash, the "usable range" would only be a 1/16th of a turn. Using the second POT, I was able to adjust the range to allow a large turn radius of the dash POT to make "usable" adjustments. The POT on the dash is a 10K POT from Radio Shack. It had a secondary on/off switch piggyback underneath. That mech made the POT have a detent. I didn't want that, so I took the POT apart and disabled that.