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Mithran Star Strider

by dutchmogul, published

Mithran Star Strider by dutchmogul Oct 20, 2012

Featured Thing!

Description

A new alien species designed by me! (during random fumblings with Sculptris)

Sculpted bit by bit in the aforementioned (albeit parenthetically) program and re-arranged in TinkerCAD.

https://tinkercad.com/things/kBASfkM1Wf0-mithran-star-strider

Recent Comments

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 I am going to be using this bearing replacement on my replicator the next time i have to unclog my gear: thingiverse.com/thing:28241
I have already printed this (in ABS) and have a bearing and the screw and spring needed. the design makes more sense to me. no delrin plunger, and the side that is open will allow cleaning the drive gear without taking the extruder apart. I see lots of folks have switched to it and are having good results. Hopefully my experience will be the same!
Update: I actually got it to start printing again by cleaning out my drive gear. I'm finding that I have to do this more often with PLA. Honestly though, Its SO worth it. PLA is a mean, clean material. Digging it.
You know, I didn't want to get too adventurous either, but when I ordered my bot, I accidentally ordered a bunch of PLA spools instead of ABS, so I had to try and adapt once the ABS spool ran out. Truth be told, I've been having a lot of difficulty, especially at lower temps it seems. Its as filament just stops feeding through at some point during the print. I thought it might be the spool jamming, but now I'm thinking that the gear is having a hard time moving it. I've been looking for a fix for a while, but I haven't found any documentation beyond the stuff on the Makerbot website.

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Instructions

Printed in PLA at a .10 layer height and 10% infill with 2 shells, extruder temp 230. Model was primed using black texture spray paint and was painted in water-based acrylics. Arms (well, two of them, anyway) were printed on a side sprue and glued into the sockets (or "arm holes," if you prefer).

sculptris and tinkercad make a very good combo!
Hey, thanks man. Yeah, just build pieces below 25,000 triangles and import them. That worked really well.

230 may be a bit high, yeah. Have you been printing in PLA? What do you print at?
 I haven't started using PLA yet.
I just built a Printrbot Jr and am going to start soon.
Haven't felt confident on switching back and forth on my replicator (I do real well with ABS and don't want to muck it up!)
But i had read PLA is typically printed lower than ABS. the numbers seem to vary on the different blog/comments. 168 - 220 seems to be the range
http://botmill.com/blog/printing-temperature-for-abs-and-pla-for-3d-printers/
http://reprap.org/wiki/PLA <another (="" (from="" (this="" 190="" a="" abs="" advantage="" also="" angles="" be="" c="" can="" com="" cooling="" fan="" for="" get="" good="" has="" have="" i="" if="" in="" liquid)="" my="" period="" pla="" port="" prints).="" read="" recognized!)="" seems="" smaller="" so="" solid="" start="" steep="" testing="" than="" the="" to="" transition="" useful="" very="" week="" when="" will=""></another>
You know, I didn't want to get too adventurous either, but when I ordered my bot, I accidentally ordered a bunch of PLA spools instead of ABS, so I had to try and adapt once the ABS spool ran out. Truth be told, I've been having a lot of difficulty, especially at lower temps it seems. Its as filament just stops feeding through at some point during the print. I thought it might be the spool jamming, but now I'm thinking that the gear is having a hard time moving it. I've been looking for a fix for a while, but I haven't found any documentation beyond the stuff on the Makerbot website.
Update: I actually got it to start printing again by cleaning out my drive gear. I'm finding that I have to do this more often with PLA. Honestly though, Its SO worth it. PLA is a mean, clean material. Digging it.
 I am going to be using this bearing replacement on my replicator the next time i have to unclog my gear: thingiverse.com/thing:28241
I have already printed this (in ABS) and have a bearing and the screw and spring needed. the design makes more sense to me. no delrin plunger, and the side that is open will allow cleaning the drive gear without taking the extruder apart. I see lots of folks have switched to it and are having good results. Hopefully my experience will be the same!
Minimalistic Mk8 replacement
by emmett
 You can print PLA at 190C, but usually you print it between 210 and 230C. With your small models, I recommend 210C.
Okay, good deal. I'll give that a try. I used to have issues at that temp, but I think my drive gear was misaligned. Wish me luck!
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