Rostock mini
Derived from
Description
For more details, build notes, and other information visit the RepRap wiki at: reprap.org/wiki/Rostock_mini
More to come in the next few weeks.
Update 11.11.12: It's printing but there are still some problems with the bowden extruder I designed because of weak-sauce push-fit pneumatic fittings. Am redesigning to use a better tube setup. Once verified in the next couple of weeks I'll be posting more details and the extruder as a separate design.
Update 12.09.12: New Bowden design is complete but hasn't been working as well as it should. Still needs more testing.
Update 12.16.12: Updated v2 files for hotend_v2.stl and the still experimental extruder.stl with OpenSCAD source files in source_v2.zip. These changes get rid of the unreliable pneumatic push-fit fittings and replace with 4mm OD PTFE tubing, McMaster p/n 52335K32, and M4 nuts threaded on each end (one in the hotend and another in the extruder).
Instructions
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Great work! I want to try printing (segmented) top and bottom frame pieces. How can I generate STL's of the these parts once I modify the SCAD parameters?
My cnc doesn't seem to like the scale of the dxfs. When i import them into enroute the files are larger than 12 feet. Can any one grab the dimensions for me so i can scale this appropriately
Hello, I printed out the 3D parts and I am in the process of sourcing the rest of the components. I want to know the differences between the Rostock Mini and stanard Rostock 3D parts if there are any. This is going to be my first RepRap and serve as a learning experience in 3D printing. From what I can tell it appears that the mini parts are identical to the standard ones and the main differences are the lengths of the rods and dimensions of the laser cut parts. After I build the mini and have it printing I'd like to move up to the full size model and hopefully recycle as many parts as I can.
All parts are printed in black and 1 tower is build and looks very good. Thank you for this work and your great book about 3D printing. I found M3x14 better to secure the 8mm smooth rods, M3x12 seems to be a little short.
Please don't do this.
There are some problems with this idea.
1) Supporting the weight of a spindle would make the machine 'sluggish'. sluggish being the best possible outcome.
2) There is 'play' in the arms that makes swinging a spinning endmill pretty dangerous. I imagine the spindle would effectively rip the arms off the machine.
3) With this pendulous moving weight, you would get terrible repeatability. Assuming you don't seriously hurt yourself first.
4) You probably want something made of steal. Assuming the machine slipped and didn't destroy itself, you run a very serious risk of drilling through the platform (Possibly into your electronics).
5) Any controller you get for this machine is no where near capable of powering a spindle.
If you're serious about a delta mill there are other designs for the arms that would be more suitable but this will surely break the bank. If you can afford an iModela I recommend you get one.
I assume all of the above points are futher punctuated by the fact that the stepper for the rostock extruder is not directly connected to the hot end.
Stupid question: I got excited and hit print before diving into the zip files. The individual STL's you uploaded, are they the default openscad settings? Can I take the output from the echo statements for measurements?
The plastic parts don't really change when the size changes. The frame will change horizontally if you move up to an 8x8 printbed for example. Vertical height is to a point irrelevant... use as long rods as you want. So yes, the STLs posted are those shown in the (in the now horribly cropped - thank Tverse) photo. Carbon fiber is sourced from McMaster - its more expensive but when you are ordering bolts anyway it makes up for it. Tower hobbies is another good place and you could pick up some ball ends there to try out.
Awesome design, great work!
Aesthetic suggestion: I notice in the assembled picture you have three pairs of wires running down the frame from the end-stop switches at the top. But you also have six vertical rods supporting the top of the frame. Could you wire each switch directly to the two rods that support it's block and eliminate the wires going to the top that way?
Question: There is an extruder groovemount dxf file. Looking here and the Reprap wiki page, it isn't clear if that is supposed to be laser cut in cork or acrylic (there is also the part that you print). In the pictures, it looks like a black plasticy layer between your orange printed pieces. I'm assuming it is acrylic but wanted to ask.
The DXF is for cutting 5mm plywood. It slots into the groovemount of MakerGear hotends forming a sandwich with hotend.stl. It might work with acrylic but usually hotend mounts are done with wood - I think you are just seeing the burnt and blackened edges. Specifically, I use inexpensive 5.2mm sanded plywood from Home Despot.
Hi thantik,
you have to search in marlin.pde?
https://groups.google.com/foru...
Yeah, it's just not there arnoldpro... the developer is apparently merging the Marlin version for Arduino 1.0 and removed delta support from that repo.
Do you have a copy you could post somewhere of the latest version you had? I haven't got an ETA yet on when delta support will be added back.
Any idea what the deal is with firmware? I've gone to the links posted in the wiki and the configuration.h in what is linked doesn't have any DELTA_ variables to set, doesn't look like it's actually for a delta bot.
What are you powering yours with? I don't see the power supply mentioned on http://reprap.org/wiki/Rostock.... Normal ATX?
One thing that is not clear to me... The calculated length for the diagonal rods, is this from the middle of the jaws mounting holes or what is the needed length?
Hi metzench, according to the building instructions, once your configuration is correctly set in configuration.scad, when you run rostock_mini.scad, it outputs a "diagonal rod length". Substract 20mm to this and you get the required length for your carbon fibre rods, that should fit in the printed jaws.
My guess is that the length of the jaw from the attaching hole on the u-joint and the extremity of the fitted rod is 10mm. I should measure that with a ruler when home, or check the scad file.
I`m thinking to build a Rostock mini. I'm looking for some partsDo anyone know a place in Europe where i can buy the pulley
GT2 36T pulley.
Brian, do you use github for development? Though cooperation would be easier. I have some mods for using igus rjmp instead of lm8uu that i want to commit.
I made some modifications to the configuration.scad and frame.scad files to allow for the use of RAMPS, adding mounting holes.
I also tweaked the file a bit so that it correctly places a classical (210*210) PCB Heatbed (as is the holes fall too close to the motors mount).
Please let me know if you would like to include those modifications.
Also, the extruder looks nice, how is the testing going ?
I'm using a RAMPS 1.4 on mine, and would love to have this mod. Is it integrated with the current thingiverse download? (I saw the sanguinololu=false/true configuration setting but didn't see anything for RAMPS.)
Klodd, perhaps you might post your changes as a derivative? Though Brian can perhaps integrate that. Would be very interested to have your changes here
That sounds great! Shoot me an email at bwevans at gmail and Ill get it incorporated and posted.
I just received some new ptfe tubing for the extruder so I hope to have that tested and changes posted soon.
I'd love to see these as I want to use RAMPS for this and a normal print bed.
Hi, thanks for your work.
What are the correct settings for the firmware config.h?
Do you happen to have a github repo that reflects your most current work? I'm gearing up to build one of these. My rods are 610mm tall, 210x210 build area - any suggestions? You mentioned yours is so short to keep the frame stable, will larger build area help offset any instability and allow me this height?
Only one way to find out! I think the drawback to the original Rostock is the larger size needs a larger wood frame to remain rigid and still I suspect its questionable even then. That's why Johann is moving to aluminum extrusion. In my testing so far there is a little vibration with the upper reaches of the build volume with the smaller printer. I suspect with a much higher print volume the vibration might become unusable. If you want an 8x8x15 print area you should look at the newest Kossel design. Keep in mind that all delta style printers exist at the bleeding edge of development.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...
for the Laser Parts the *eps Files
Hi Arnold,
thank you.
The owner, Stefan Canditt, from formulor.de has convert it in *,eps.
by interess i would send you the frame.eps, hotend and bed .eps ...
There is a nema 14 gasket file in the .zip, but I don't see a nema 17.
Hi,
is it possible to fasten open belts? It is hard to get the right length in Europe.
Awesome version! I look forward to building your upgrade. Any ETA on the changes or additions you mentioned? Do you if anybody can source a set of printed parts. Unfortunately, I don't yet have a qorking 3D printer. Thanks for sharing your upgrade!
I am printing the parts.
I don't understand if Sanguinololu is fine to drive it
Whats your total cost on the build looking like?
Honestly I have no idea! I suspect it could be built for $400-500 or thereabouts. I had a lot of this stuff laying around but I still had to drop about $200-250. Really it depends on how many corners you cut... $15 steppers instead of $20, J-head hotend instead of MakerGear, wood frame instead of acrylic, cheap Sanguinololu or Azteeg X1 with a 1284P by default instead of later replacing the 644p... all that and you might save $75-100 right there.
What's the current height of the 6" x 6" build? Or if it varies, the build pictured.
I'm keenly looking forward to producing one of these.
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What value in the openscad files defines the carbon fiber rod diameter/radius? What is the default for this?
Also: How can I extract the build plates for the top & bottom frame plates to have them cut (or to make a drawing to cut them myself)