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Rostock mini

by bwevans, published

Rostock mini by bwevans Oct 22, 2012

Description

A slightly smaller, sleeker, more portable and more desktop friendly version of Johann's Rostock Delta 3D Printer. Key improvements have been made to the parametric nature of the design files with a laser cut frame generated by the SCAD file to accomodate the desired print bed dimensions. Also there's a new extruder design to go along with that will be published soon.

For more details, build notes, and other information visit the RepRap wiki at: http://reprap.org/wiki/Rostock_mini

More to come in the next few weeks.

Update 11.11.12: It's printing but there are still some problems with the bowden extruder I designed because of weak-sauce push-fit pneumatic fittings. Am redesigning to use a better tube setup. Once verified in the next couple of weeks I'll be posting more details and the extruder as a separate design.

Update 12.09.12: New Bowden design is complete but hasn't been working as well as it should. Still needs more testing.

Update 12.16.12: Updated v2 files for hotend_v2.stl and the still experimental extruder.stl with OpenSCAD source files in source_v2.zip. These changes get rid of the unreliable pneumatic push-fit fittings and replace with 4mm OD PTFE tubing, McMaster p/n 52335K32, and M4 nuts threaded on each end (one in the hotend and another in the extruder).

Recent Comments

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Someone have tried to make one with 300x300mm bed and smooth roads larger than 1000mm? i'm thinking on make one...
You have to configure the size in configuration.scad and then go to rostock_mini.scad and compile, search some lines in the terminal that tell you all the sizes you need to know. The frame for generate dxf to cut the frame uses the same configuration.scad archive. i do it.
You have to download and uncompress the complete rostock_mini.zip file.
I wanna build this with a larger print area, 210mm x 210mm. But I can't compile de frame.scad in OpenSCAD. I get "ERROR: CSG generation failed! (no top level object found)"

Can anybody generate a larger bottom and top plate for a default 210mm x 210mm printbed? Or is it available anywhere on internet?

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License

GNU - GPL
Rostock mini by bwevans is licensed under the GNU - GPL license.

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Instructions

Start with the rostock_mini.scad source file included here to see how everything fits together and then check out the build notes over at the wiki page.

Someone have tried to make one with 300x300mm bed and smooth roads larger than 1000mm? i'm thinking on make one...
I wanna build this with a larger print area, 210mm x 210mm. But I can't compile de frame.scad in OpenSCAD. I get "ERROR: CSG generation failed! (no top level object found)"

Can anybody generate a larger bottom and top plate for a default 210mm x 210mm printbed? Or is it available anywhere on internet?
Dec 11, 2014 - Modified Dec 11, 2014
CeledaBcn - in reply to Splendid
You have to configure the size in configuration.scad and then go to rostock_mini.scad and compile, search some lines in the terminal that tell you all the sizes you need to know. The frame for generate dxf to cut the frame uses the same configuration.scad archive. i do it.
You have to download and uncompress the complete rostock_mini.zip file.
Hi. Is the top and bottom plate/frame the same size as the standard Rostock?
Hi! I would like to build one, but seeing that it has been developed in 2012, could you please tell me any delta printer like this one with timming belt that is more recent please? Thank you!
So I haven't worked with this printer in a very long time now. To answer some questions, the dxf for the frame is scaled in millimeters so if opening in Illustrator take that in account. Also its all parametric so can be changed based on build size. The clips for the hbp were a test design that I never finalized so I never posted them. The parts are similar to a normal rostock but adjusted for the smaller geometry a little bit although the biggest part of the design was its parametrization (is that a word?). You can look at the source for the changes. Overall, I haven't had any luck with bowden tube extruders in general and had some issues with the height of the nozzle to the bed not being consistent so I was a little frustrated with this machine. I attribute a lot of this to the delta form which has many drawbacks imo over cartesian form factors so I haven't had much desire to tinker with this printer since. If I were to build a delta I would look at the 3DR by RichRap or just stick with a more conventional cartesian like the prusa i3.
What's the dimension of the frame? Anyone?
Hello have you a stl file with only 1 joint because printing 12 in one time causes issues on my printer please. If you want to mail it to me: jhdscript dot gmail.com
What File did you use for the clips that hold the HPB?
I used two bulldog clips.
In the image it looks like PLA L shaped clips with a bolt through them.
So.. are the plastic parts the same as those of the normal rostock or are they scaled down?
I don't understand why does it need so much torque (at lelast 4.3kg-cm nema 17's according to the reprap wiki)? Isn't the whole point of a Delta to reduce the torque needed and increase the speed?
Speed can be increased in a delta design because the weight is much lower when compared to something like a prusa i2 where the whole printbed on the y or the entire x stage hanging off the z is moving. Because its fast does not mean that it doesn't need torque to move those arms. Surprised me too.
What value in the openscad files defines the carbon fiber rod diameter/radius? What is the default for this?
Also: How can I extract the build plates for the top & bottom frame plates to have them cut (or to make a drawing to cut them myself)
Great work! I want to try printing (segmented) top and bottom frame pieces. How can I generate STL's of the these parts once I modify the SCAD parameters?
is any one have a supplier for the belts ?
RobotDigg.com is a great resource.
My cnc doesn't seem to like the scale of the dxfs. When i import them into enroute the files are larger than 12 feet. Can any one grab the dimensions for me so i can scale this appropriately
I may know the answer to your question. I think your router sees the dxf file and turns 1unit into 1inch instead of 1mm. I opened the file in illustrator and once gave the correct scale it gave me the right size. The height of one of the triangles is 24cm. I hope this helps.
Same here. Trying to print to paper and trace to wood. What scale are the DXF's, please?
Hello, I printed out the 3D parts and I am in the process of sourcing the rest of the components. I want to know the differences between the Rostock Mini and stanard Rostock 3D parts if there are any. This is going to be my first RepRap and serve as a learning experience in 3D printing. From what I can tell it appears that the mini parts are identical to the standard ones and the main differences are the lengths of the rods and dimensions of the laser cut parts. After I build the mini and have it printing I'd like to move up to the full size model and hopefully recycle as many parts as I can.
All parts are printed in black and 1 tower is build and looks very good. Thank you for this work and your great book about 3D printing. I found M3x14 better to secure the 8mm smooth rods, M3x12 seems to be a little short.
Is the deltabot faster to printer than rerap style printer????
Please don't do this.

There are some problems with this idea.
1) Supporting the weight of a spindle would make the machine 'sluggish'. sluggish being the best possible outcome.
2) There is 'play' in the arms that makes swinging a spinning endmill pretty dangerous. I imagine the spindle would effectively rip the arms off the machine.
3) With this pendulous moving weight, you would get terrible repeatability. Assuming you don't seriously hurt yourself first.
4) You probably want something made of steal. Assuming the machine slipped and didn't destroy itself, you run a very serious risk of drilling through the platform (Possibly into your electronics).
5) Any controller you get for this machine is no where near capable of powering a spindle.

If you're serious about a delta mill there are other designs for the arms that would be more suitable but this will surely break the bank. If you can afford an iModela I recommend you get one.

I assume all of the above points are futher punctuated by the fact that the stepper for the rostock extruder is not directly connected to the hot end.
Stupid question: I got excited and hit print before diving into the zip files. The individual STL's you uploaded, are they the default openscad settings? Can I take the output from the echo statements for measurements?
The plastic parts don't really change when the size changes. The frame will change horizontally if you move up to an 8x8 printbed for example. Vertical height is to a point irrelevant... use as long rods as you want. So yes, the STLs posted are those shown in the (in the now horribly cropped - thank Tverse) photo. Carbon fiber is sourced from McMaster - its more expensive but when you are ordering bolts anyway it makes up for it. Tower hobbies is another good place and you could pick up some ball ends there to try out.
Awesome design, great work!

Aesthetic suggestion: I notice in the assembled picture you have three pairs of wires running down the frame from the end-stop switches at the top. But you also have six vertical rods supporting the top of the frame. Could you wire each switch directly to the two rods that support it's block and eliminate the wires going to the top that way?
I am thinking about shielding the wires to the switches, using the 6 rods will be the other extreme.
Have you ever had electrical interference on the end-stop wires? I may end up putting the extruder on the top of the frame (instead of underneath it) and running the Bowden tube (and extruder power/thermistor wires) down from the top, in which case I'll have a lot more than 6 wires going up to the top, I may have to add a separate wire run tube outside the 3 towers somewhere...
Question: There is an extruder groovemount dxf file. Looking here and the Reprap wiki page, it isn't clear if that is supposed to be laser cut in cork or acrylic (there is also the part that you print). In the pictures, it looks like a black plasticy layer between your orange printed pieces. I'm assuming it is acrylic but wanted to ask. 
The DXF is for cutting 5mm plywood. It slots into the groovemount of MakerGear hotends forming a sandwich with hotend.stl. It might work with acrylic but usually hotend mounts are done with wood - I think you are just seeing the burnt and blackened edges. Specifically, I use inexpensive 5.2mm sanded plywood from Home Despot. 
 Ah! I cut it out of cork too but that didn't look right. Then I cut a box for something else out of plywood. I guess I should have cut it out of that too.

Thanks!

Is there any documentation on how the tube and push plug (?) connect at the top? I don't even know what that metal push plug piece is and it isn't listed anywhere.

I've got all of my parts made except for the hotend/extruder bits though I need to tap things to hook them up.
 I did notice that there is a new v3 of the Airtripper Bowden Extruder this week. I've never used any kind of Bowden so this is news to me.
Bowden type extruders are oh so much fun! Airtripper's new extruder looks good and a possibility Im considering. Need to find a way to mount it to the top maybe and shorten the Bowden tube. 

I've stopped using the push-fit fittings because they are a PITA and just don't work well. Moved to a 4mm PTFE tube with M4 nuts and it completely solved the problem of the tube coming loose. I've posted updated files for the hotend side so you should print that and use it with whatever extruder works. 
Is it possible to put up a photo set on Flickr or elsewhere of your build with more angles on how things are put together?
Just noticed that Lulzbot sells a similar power supply at a monster 16A(!) with an available matching plug. http://www.lulzbot.com/products/12vdc-16a-power-supply-w-4-pin-plug
 That looks nice though I'm using RAMPS 1.4 so I'd have to hack the plug anyway.
Hi thantik,
you have to search in marlin.pde?
groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups=#!topic/deltabot/HyK47vjx-g0

Yeah, it's just not there arnoldpro... the developer is apparently merging the Marlin version for Arduino 1.0 and removed delta support from that repo.

Do you have a copy you could post somewhere of the latest version you had?  I haven't got an ETA yet on when delta support will be added back.
Any idea what the deal is with firmware?  I've gone to the links posted in the wiki and the configuration.h in what is linked doesn't have any DELTA_ variables to set, doesn't look like it's actually for a delta bot.
Just use the delta fork of Marlin: https://github.com/jcrocholl/Marlin The delta math is in Marlin.pde.
thantik - in reply to
Yeah, if you didn't immediately assume I was doing something wrong, you'd notice that the current marlin in that repo does not support delta.  

groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups=#!topic/deltabot/HyK47vjx-g0

Do you have a copy somewhere I could grab?
What's with the attitude?! Why do you assume that I keep track of the daily activities of the various firmware out there? Johann's working on it so hang tight. Be happy with living on the very bleeding edge.
What are you powering yours with? I don't see the power supply mentioned on reprap.org/wiki/Rostock_mini. Normal ATX?
One thing that is not clear to me... The calculated length for the diagonal rods, is this from the middle of the jaws mounting holes or what is the needed length?
Hi metzench, according to the building instructions, once your configuration is correctly set in configuration.scad, when you run rostock_mini.scad, it outputs a "diagonal rod length". Substract 20mm to this and you get the required length for your carbon fibre rods, that should fit in the printed jaws.

My guess is that the length of the jaw from the attaching hole on the u-joint and the extremity of the fitted rod is 10mm. I should measure that with a ruler when home, or check the scad file.
3runo - in reply to Klodd
Which is the default diagonal rod length for this printer? 186 - 20 = 166mm?
Any updates on the extruder?
I found the GT2 36T on ebay ;-)  
http://www.ebay.nl/itm/Rostock-Delta-Robot-3D-Printer-2mm-pitch-36-tooth-pulley-Reprap-/321029788059?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4abeddd19b
I got them imported from sdp-si (I'm in France).
I`m thinking to build a Rostock mini.  I'm looking for some partsDo anyone know a place in Europe where i can buy the pulley
GT2 36T pulley.
Brian, do you use github for development? Though cooperation would be easier. I have some mods for using igus rjmp instead of lm8uu that i want to commit.
I just created a github repo, forked from jcrocholl/rostock.

Find all the files here :
https://github.com/Klodd/rostock_mini

I'll add the repo on the wiki page, I don't think it's worth creating a derivative, it should be integrated here.
I made some modifications to the configuration.scad and frame.scad files to allow for the use of RAMPS, adding mounting holes.

I also tweaked the file a bit so that it correctly places a classical (210*210) PCB Heatbed (as is the holes fall too close to the motors mount).

Please let me know if you would like to include those modifications.

Also, the extruder looks nice, how is the testing going ?
I'm using a RAMPS 1.4 on mine, and would love to have this mod. Is it integrated with the current thingiverse download? (I saw the sanguinololu=false/true configuration setting but didn't see anything for RAMPS.)
 Klodd, perhaps you might post your changes as a derivative? Though Brian can perhaps integrate that. Would be very interested to have your changes here
That sounds great! Shoot me an email at bwevans at gmail and Ill get it incorporated and posted.

I just received some new ptfe tubing for the extruder so I hope to have that tested and changes posted soon.
 I'd love to see these as I want to use RAMPS for this and a normal print bed.
Hi, thanks for your work.
What are the correct settings for the firmware config.h?
Do you happen to have a github repo that reflects your most current work?  I'm gearing up to build one of these.  My rods are 610mm tall, 210x210 build area - any suggestions?  You mentioned yours is so short to keep the frame stable, will larger build area help offset any instability and allow me this height?
Only one way to find out! I think the drawback to the original Rostock is the larger size needs a larger wood frame to remain rigid and still I suspect its questionable even then. That's why Johann is moving to aluminum extrusion. In my testing so far there is a little vibration with the upper reaches of the build volume with the smaller printer. I suspect with a much higher print volume the vibration might become unusable. If you want an 8x8x15 print area you should look at the newest Kossel design. Keep in mind that all delta style printers exist at the bleeding edge of development.
thantik - in reply to
Worst-case scenario, I can always add diagonal braces across 2 of the openings, or even just lower the build height.
Working on my Rostock mini: https://vimeo.com/53214112
Looks good!
 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:34138
for the Laser Parts the *eps Files
*eps file for Rostock mini
by abcona
Hi Arnold,
thank you.
The owner, Stefan Canditt, from formulor.de has convert it in *,eps.
by interess i would send you the frame.eps, hotend and bed .eps ...
 There is a nema 14 gasket file in the .zip, but I don't see a nema 17.
Yep, I thought I would get away with using 14s but clearly not. I have a few more things to lazzor in the next couple of weeks so I'll be updating the gaskets then.
Hi,
is it possible to fasten open belts? It is hard to get the right length in Europe.
Yeah that should work. Either double it up in the belt holder on the carriage or some use a couple zip ties to attache one end of the belt to the other. This lets you tension it.
Awesome version! I look forward to building your upgrade. Any ETA on the changes or additions you mentioned? Do you if anybody can source a set of printed parts. Unfortunately, I don't yet have a qorking 3D printer. Thanks for sharing your upgrade!
I am printing the parts.
I don't understand if Sanguinololu is fine to drive it
Sanguinololu with an upgraded ATmega1284P will drive the printer just fine. If you have an older Sanguinololu with the 644P it will not. More details here: http://hardwired.cc/?p=256
Whats your total cost on the build looking like?
Honestly I have no idea! I suspect it could be built for $400-500 or thereabouts. I had a lot of this stuff laying around but I still had to drop about $200-250. Really it depends on how many corners you cut... $15 steppers instead of $20, J-head hotend instead of MakerGear, wood frame instead of acrylic, cheap Sanguinololu or Azteeg X1 with a 1284P by default instead of later replacing the 644p... all that and you might save $75-100 right there. 
What's the current height of the 6" x 6" build? Or if it varies, the build pictured.

I'm keenly looking forward to producing one of these.
As pictured it comes in at a max vertical height of 7.5". This is configurable by setting a longer vertical rod in the config file.
freaking awesome. nice job.
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