(Unofficial) Replicator XL
by JohnA, published
Please read the instructions before downloading files!
All the Rostock printers made me want to print some taller files - hereâ€™s your chance.
Just for a bit of history on MakerBot Z-axis print heights:
- Cupcake CNC: 100mm
- Thing-O-Matic: 120mm
- Replicator: 150mm
- Replicator 2: 155mm
And to check in on some competitors:
- Printrbot Plus: 203mm
- Ultimaker: 220mm
- Series 1: 230mm
With the swapping of just 6 pieces*, a Replicator 1 can be made into the (Unofficial) Replicator XL - with a Z-axis build area of 250mm. The only pieces needed are 4 new wood panels and 2 smooth rods.
How much bigger is it? The Replicator 1 build volume is 300 cubic inches. The Replicator 2 is 410 cubic inches. (Unofficial) Replicator XL? 500 cubic inches (err...498 I think).
I also figured if I was in there editing files, I might as well make it look a little more like the Replicator 2, so all of the â€˜windowâ€™ shapes have been changed to reflect the â€˜new look.â€™
Enough talk, letâ€™s get to the photos!
The smooth rods I used are: http://www.mcmaster.com/#6459K112 (8mm x 400mm)
Big thanks to Bruce Wattendorf (of Giant Ultimaker fame) for helping with my meager DXF editing skills. Thanks also to Dan and Jetty for helping after I spent hours messing with broken firmware.
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<B>A few more photos and assembly notes here now:</b> http://www.abella.net/?p=755
- This isnâ€™t a hard process, but itâ€™s also not a 1 hour job . I had to lengthen at least a dozen wires (stepper power / fan power / extruder heaters) by a few inches. The thermocouple, HBP, and endstop wires on mine were all long enough. <br>
- The case design DXF files on Thingiverse for the Replicator (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18813) are WRONG. These are not the production files - and it messed me up a bit. The mightyboard power / usb / reset button location has moved, requiring some dremel adjustments. <b>On the files I uploaded I think Iâ€™ve resolved it, but havenâ€™t tested it yet. You might have to dremel these sections a little still.</b> If youâ€™re thinking about using them for the basis for a custom case mod, let me know and I can probably help. <br>
- I called MakerBot Support to get the Replicator assembly documentation that we were told they were close to releasing in January: Turns out it doesnâ€™t exist / canâ€™t be shared. So take good notes / pics when you take it apart, as there are no directions on how to assemble it. <br>
- If youâ€™re getting the case cut on your own, itâ€™s 5.5mm plywood - birch I think. <br>
- <b>Warning:</b> This will not work with the MBI firmware 5.5 - and maybe not with 6.1 either. Thereâ€™s a problem with them hardcoding the axes length. You can change your .xml files all day long, but it wonâ€™t ever work. It might work on 5.0, maybe?
- <b>Edit!</b> Forgot to mention - the brass nut for the Z-threaded rod needs to be flipped from on top of the platform to below it, or the platform won't go high enough. It fits on the bottom, check my flickr photos.
- <b>Edit 2:</b> Also worth mentioning: The Mightyboard is <b>super sensitive</b> to being wired up wrong, resulting in pops, sparks, flames, and various other ways to kill it. Take photos of the wires before you change them, and triple check before you turn power back on! You've been warned.
- <b>Edit 3?:</b> - I used Sailfish for the firmware, works great!
- <B>More Notes:</b> - You'll need to edit your start and end.gcode files to change the Z to 250 from 150. (The G1 line and G0 line, respectively)
- You'll also need to move your Z-endstop to the slots instead of the holes, and re-adjust it to get the platform to go high enough.
- <b>Revisions: there's apparently an earlier revision of the Replicator that doesn't require splicing any wires. I don't know anything about when / what serial numbers that changed at. At least two people have done this without changing any wires. Figured it was worth mentioning.