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Parametric LED Candle Holder

by holgero, published

Parametric LED Candle Holder by holgero Nov 2, 2012

Description

Another LED candle holder, but with OpenSCAD files instead of *.123d files. I made the top of the candle a bit more distorted than the original to give it a 'molten' look.

The second holder (holder2.scad) was an experiment with low current LEDs that didn't work out.

The third holder (holder3.scad) uses my own flickering LED implementation with a PIC12F508 (https://github.com/holgero/PICFlickerLEDs).

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As I left the first one at my sisters place I needed to print another one. This time I did the candle in natural PLA with only 0.02 infill and without additional shells. For innards (holder3.stl and battery clip) I used white ABS.
Works also fine.
Thanks for the tip, I did that. (And sorry for the delayed  answer, I was busy assembling my printer.)
Having done mine in 123d, I wasn't sure how the saved versions in other formats I could do would translate for people.  Good to have a SCAD version... 

One thing to look at though on the LED holder.  You might want to fillet the sides of the vertical walls.  It will make them stronger and a bit stiffer when holding the battery and LED.  Hard corners tend to be weak spots, at least that's what they used to pound into our heads in engineering classes way back when..

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Instructions

For the original thing thingiverse.com/thing:33003 use the files candle.* and holder.*.

For my own flickering LEDs implementation use the holder3.* files instead of holder.*. It goes upside down into the candle and the LED sticks through the holes in the disk, see the attached images. The flickering LEDs PIC assembler sources are available on github: github.com/holgero/PICFlickerLEDs. The openscad file uses the switch component from the 3D-PCB library thingiverse.com/thing:21975 . The thing contains also a battery clip (like the two battery holder from thingiverse.com/thing:38216 .

To make your own you need one printout of candle.scad, holder3.scad and clip2.scad (from the Parametric Battery Clip Thing). Other stuff is: 1 LED (yellow), 1 resistor 68 Ohms, 1 PIC 18F508 (and the means to flash it with a hex file) and some wire.

Assemble the battery clip, thread the wires so that the batteries are connected in series. Assemble the switch (see instructables.com/id/3D-Printed-Circuit-Boards-for-solder-free-printab/ ). Flash a PIC 12F580 with the hex file (either compile it from the sources on github or use the PICFlickerLEDs.hex file from here) and connect it as seen on the image. The yellow LED is connected with its longer leg (+) to the peg in the middle of the picture (Vdd) and on the other end with the 68 Ohms resistor. Connect the other end of the resistor with one of the pins 2,3,5,6,7 of the PIC (doesn't matter which, they all output some flickering). Connect pin 1 with the peg in the middle (Vdd) and pin 8 with GND (-) from the battery pack.

Note that the PIC in the image is shown from below, so the PIN 1 is on the top right (the one connected to the middle peg).
As I left the first one at my sisters place I needed to print another one. This time I did the candle in natural PLA with only 0.02 infill and without additional shells. For innards (holder3.stl and battery clip) I used white ABS.
Works also fine.
Might put the STLs up so people can see what your version looks like.
Hi cyclone,

Thanks for your interest!
I did as you suggested and uploaded the missing STLs (the page looks much better this way!).
The import in the holder was a mistake (I used it to compare my result with the original holder), I fixed it and uploaded the holder.stl again.

Please forgive me these (probably very obvious) mistakes, this is my first attempt at things.

And thanks for the feedback, I appreciate it, best wishes,
holgero.
Having done mine in 123d, I wasn't sure how the saved versions in other formats I could do would translate for people.  Good to have a SCAD version... 

One thing to look at though on the LED holder.  You might want to fillet the sides of the vertical walls.  It will make them stronger and a bit stiffer when holding the battery and LED.  Hard corners tend to be weak spots, at least that's what they used to pound into our heads in engineering classes way back when..
Thanks for the tip, I did that. (And sorry for the delayed  answer, I was busy assembling my printer.)
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