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R3DWOOD OB1 Prism

by Wired1, published

R3DWOOD OB1 Prism by Wired1 Nov 7, 2012

Description

New printer based on the Mendel Max and the Prism style printers but constructed from Open Beam 15 x 15 aluminium extrusion.

Designed for a 200 x 200 x 125 print area.

Open Beam Prism blog: nzec.co.nz/r3dwood/
3D printer movies: youtube.com/user/wiredkiwi
Printer webcam (whenever printing): tinyurl.com/97uglwz

Recent Comments

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is there any way you could modify a couple of parts for me please :) is there any way you could make it so that you could use the 12mm rods on the Z line instead of 10mm, please, i would love that, if that is possible im going to have two of these live by the weekend.
please help me out here.
Openbeam is 15x15mm and what my printers are designed around. The 20x20 is Misumi or similar profile and what they use on the Prism and Mendel Max printers.
Thanks, I found it but its 20x20mm the smallest, why do you use 15x15mm?, this would not work if I use 20x20mm?

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Instructions

It really is as easy to assemble as it looks. The main challenge you will face is pre-installing enough 3mm nuts in the extrusion before you put it together as they cannot be added after unless you take an end off - just refer to the photos here and my build blog nzec.co.nz/r3dwood/.

Open beam extrusions required:
2 x top rails 442 mm each
4 x front/rear rails 330mm each
2 x side rails 330mm each
4 x diagonals 330mm each or 330 + 30 degree mitre (refer to the blog).
These can be cut from 5 x 1m lengths of Open Beam extrusion.
Mitre-box here: thingiverse.com/thing:32668

Linear rods:
X-axis 8mm x 450mm long
Y-axis 8mm x 390mm long
Z-axis 10mm x 400mm long

Hardware:
4 x 10mm LM10UU bearings
8 x 8mm LM8UU bearings
2 x 608 bearings
80 x M3 x 8mm hex socket machine screws
10 x M3 x 10mm hex socket machine screws
80 x 3mm washers
80 x M3 nuts

For the first one of these I built I used GT2-3 timing belt which has a 3mm pitch plus printable 23 tooth pulleys for Y and X axes. If you are using GT2-3 belt use the GT2-3 clamps and pulleys. For the second printer I built I used T2.5 belt and have added the pulley (25T T2.5.stl) and clamps (T2.5 clampPair.stl).

I have also used TommyC's revised Kuhling's X-ends thingiverse.com/thing:21122
plus my X-carriage thingiverse.com/thing:31322 and quick release extruder thingiverse.com/thing:30951.

This is now a working printer running marlin with SD card support on an Azteeg X3 controller.

I have also modified the corner plates to take straight cut extrusion and these are the two files CornerPlateL3.stl and CornerPlateR3.stl files. With these corner plates you cut all ten extrusions straight at 330mm plus the top two rails at 442mm each.

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is there any way you could modify a couple of parts for me please :) is there any way you could make it so that you could use the 12mm rods on the Z line instead of 10mm, please, i would love that, if that is possible im going to have two of these live by the weekend.
please help me out here.
Hi Wired, its a nice printer, Im looking to build it but here in Mexico we dont have opeanbeam aluminum, how can I ask for these, I mean the with of the aluminum...
There is an importer I use in New Zealand so you should search for one in your country. Or try Terence Tam here: thingiverse.com/OpenBeamUSA/overview - he is the guy who developed the aluminium extrusion.
Thanks, I found it but its 20x20mm the smallest, why do you use 15x15mm?, this would not work if I use 20x20mm?
Openbeam is 15x15mm and what my printers are designed around. The 20x20 is Misumi or similar profile and what they use on the Prism and Mendel Max printers.
Hello to WIRED1. It's me again -- from Youtube. Are the above drawings of OB14 parts? Still trying to find a kit of parts for an OB14 printer.
Hi, yes soory about youtube, they won;t let you list a url for some bizarre reason. This is the link you need: thingiverse.com/thing:41967
Added a roller guide for the y-axis idler/tensioner. It is a press fit over the 608 bearing and works with the existing tensioner parts. Use an 8mm flat washer on the open side of the roller guide.
Added the y-idler roller guide to help keep the y-axis belt centred on the idler/tensioner. It is a press fit over the 608 bearing and works with the existing tensioner. Use a standard 8mm flat washer on the open side of the roller guide for a snug fit.
I haven't managed to print the T2.5 pulley yet so don;t get your hopes up. The GT2-3 one works perfectly but the smallest T2.5 pitch seems to be outside the capabilities of the Prusa I am using. I will probably have to buy a 25 tooth T2.5 pulley.
Added T2.5 pulleys and clamps today as I am building a second printer with T2.5 belt which is easier to source. I have also simplified the extrusion cutting by altering the lower corners to take straight cut extrusions all the same length (read the instructions above for more info).
Added the printable GT2-3 pulleys today. They currently need to be 23 teeth to clear the width of the Open Beam extrusion so if you use a different belt you will need to make the overall diameter exceed the 15mm wide extrusion.
Added limit switch holders plus the Azteeg X3 holder today, still wiring this up but hope to have it running this week.
There is a slicing problem with the Ymotor.stl file. I will update it when it is resolved.
Ok thanks to Oatridge it is now fixed and the old file has been deleted to avoid confusion.
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