by JorgeRdgz, published
The goal for my derivative of the Johannâ€™s Rostock was to build a simpler, lighter and more robust structure. I decided to use extruded aluminum since itâ€™s quite strong, readily available, and relatively inexpensive. A piece of 80/20 10 SERIES 1010 1" X 1" T-SLOTTED EXTRUSION x 72" (1828.8mm) sells for $19 in Amazon.com. I was also inclined to use aluminum given that I have previous experience building and fabricating with this material (I built an all aluminum airplane in my garage).
Gone are all the wood parts, and the stainless steel rods. I kept the idea of using as many 3D printed parts as possible, since I had easy access to a friendâ€™s Prusa Mendel printer. I am a software developer; hence it was easy for me to learn OpenSCAD to design my own parts. I tried to keep the number of new parts to a minimum and, if possible, reuse or make a derivative of the original Rostock parts.
I studied the Rostock Max by SeeMeCNC, which I think it is awesome. I love the â€œCheapskateâ€ design so I tried to replicate it but instead of flat plates for the carriage I decided to modify Johannâ€™s design to fit the profile of the 1010 and to accommodate four 608 bearings. After multiple iterations and head scratching sessions, I concluded that the best and easiest way to provide anti-backlash pressure between the bearings and the channel was to elongate the shaft holes and wrap a rubber band between the opposing M4 bolts serving as bearing shafts. It works beautifully.
Another difference is in the track of the GT2 belt. On the Max, the belt in the back of the carriage tracks within the 1010 slot. On the other side of the carriage, the belt tracks a few millimeters parallel to the 1010 beam. On the PRISMA, the whole length of the belt, up and down segments, track within the inward facing slot of the 1010 beam. Thereâ€™s a separation of approximately 3mm between the up and down moving segments of the belt. The separation is made possible by the double bearing idler design. One bearing pushes one segment of the belt inward into the channel while the other keeps the top belt tracking just above and flush with the edges of the channel. The only drawback to this approach was that it requires you to widen 1.5â€ (38mm) of the channel at the top and bottom to allow the 608 bearing to fit inside the slot in order to push the belt farther in. You can easily accomplish this task with a Dremel rotary tool, metal cutting tool, small sanding tool and a flat screwdriver.
The three vertical sections of 1010 extrusion provide the support for the entire structure. I used my cheap compound miter saw with a $12 metal cutting blade to cut the extruded aluminum pieces. I cut the vertical pieces to 36â€ ( 914.4mm). This translates to a maximum build height of roughly 13â€ (330mm). You can increase the build height by using longer verticals, however you need to keep in mind that you will need longer GT2 belts.
The horizontal aluminum pieces are sandwiched in between top and bottom plastic corner gussets at each end and secured with t-nuts. You can buy 80/20 t-nuts at $0.24 a piece or you can make your own by printing a bunch or tnut.stl copies and super gluing a regular 10-32 nut to the plastic. The final structure is a triangular/prism beam very straight, clean and sturdy.
Lastly, all other parts hang from the aluminum extrusion; motor mounts, heated bed, idlers, electronics, power supply, etc. I design and printed special mounting clips that fit the 1010 profile.
Recent Commentsview all
Man...how did I miss this project when I started working on this?
I like the look you have going. Mine seems like it uses too much printed parts. I need to find a way to reduce print time, and material cost. I really like your top and bottom vertexeseses. pretty and slim....but that roller vertical guide carriage looks like it takes a week to print for each one. There has got to be a way to reduce the printed part content in there,,,, I also like the belt in the extrusion idea, it keeps the max build area and it makes the downward belt force more fully down. But I am too lazy to cut that hole once, much less 3x's. I was just going to make my horizontal extrusions a little longer to make up for it, but I might need to think about that.
Great stuff man.
For anyone in the UK/Eu that's havng trouble sourcing the t-slot rods for this model, take a look at the 'Cherry Pi'. It uses standard Bosch/Rexroth aluminium extrusion which is very cheap, and fairly common in Europe. There's a UK supplier called 'KJN Aluminium Profile' that stocks these. I've priced up the entire frame cost to be under £20.
This variant looks great - nice work Jorge, seriously. Delta's seem to be such a better design. I recently built an i3 and am now kicking myself that I didn't go for a delta, so have been looking at the cheapest way to reuse my RAMPS electronics, and build a decent delta without spending several hundred more in parts.
Out of interest, could you tell me if you think it would be possible to:
A) Slightly reduce the height
B) Make the area under the build platform smaller, and move the motors so they are basically lower down and attached inside the lower frame, instead of above it? My thinking is that you could compact the space needed for the electronics. A bit like the 3DR where it's all housed in a pretty small area.
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Bill of Material
Qty Description Source
3 80/20 10 SERIES 1010 1" X 1" T-SLOTTED EXTRUSION x 914.4mm (36") Amazon.com
9 80/20 10 SERIES 1010 1" X 1" T-SLOTTED EXTRUSION x 274.32mm (10.8") Amazon.com
1 213mm x 213mm x 1.6mm (8.4" x 8.4" x 0.063") Aluminum Sheet onlinemetals.com
Hardware and Misc. Parts
6 4.8mm OD Carbon Fiber tubes 220mm length Local Hobby Store
36 608ZZ 8x22x7 Shielded Greased Miniature Ball Bearings UltiMachine.com
12 18-8 Stainless Steel Socket Head Cap Screw, M3 Thread, 22MM Length mcmaster.com
40 18-8 Stainless Steel Socket Head Cap Screw, M3 Thread, 10MM Length mcmaster.com
6 18-8 Stainless Steel Socket Head Cap Screw, M4 Thread, 60MM Length mcmaster.com
24 18-8 Stainless Steel Socket Head Cap Screw, M4 Thread, 45MM Length mcmaster.com
6 18-8 Stainless Steel Socket Head Cap Screw, M4 Thread, 25MM Length mcmaster.com
52 18-8 Stainless Steel Nylon-Insert Hex Locknut, M3 Size mcmaster.com
36 18-8 Stainless Steel Nylon-Insert Hex Locknut, M4 Size mcmaster.com
52 18-8 Stainless Steel Flat Washer, M3 Screw Size mcmaster.com
36 18-8 Stainless Steel Flat Washer, M4 Screw Size mcmaster.com
108 18-8 Stainless Steel Button Head Screw, 10-32 Thread, 0.5" Length mcmaster.com
108 18-8 Stainless Steel Machine Screw Hex Nut, 10-32 Thread mcmaster.com
108 18-8 Stainless Steel General Purpose Washers, Size 10 screw mcmaster.com
1 RAMPS Pre-Assembled Kit Complete UltiMachine.com
1 PCB Heatbed MK2 Ebay.com
4 Kysan 1124090 Nema 17 Stepper Motor UltiMachine.com
Belts and Pulleys
18ft Timing Belt, GT2, Custom Length UltiMachine.com
3 Timing Pulley, GT2, 20 Tooth UltiMachine.com
1 Hot-End Assembly for "Steves-Extruder" SeeMeCNC.com
2 Rotating Polybutylene Tube Fitting, Adapter for 4MM Tube OD, M5 X 0.8 Male Pipe Thread mcmaster.com
5ft Super-Smooth Clear Mfa Tubing, 2 mm ID, 4 mm OD, 1 mm Wall Thickness mcmaster.com
80 tnut.stl thingiverse.com/thing:34146
3 carriage_06a.stl thingiverse.com/thing:34146
3 carriage_06b.stl thingiverse.com/thing:34146
24 carriageAxle.stl thingiverse.com/thing:34146
15 corner_gusset.stl thingiverse.com/thing:34146
3 corner_gusset_belt_notch.stl thingiverse.com/thing:34146
3 motor_end.stl thingiverse.com/thing:34146
6 motorEndClip.stl thingiverse.com/thing:34146
12 idlerClip.stl thingiverse.com/thing:34146
24 bearingbushing_long.stl thingiverse.com/thing:34146
4 hot_bed_clip.stl thingiverse.com/thing:34146
1 Airtripper's Bowden Extruder (modified to accept 4mm tube fitting) thingiverse.com/thing:22426
12 jaws.stl thingiverse.com/thing:17175
12 joint.stl thingiverse.com/thing:17175
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