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Hobbing Thing Improved

by wildseyed, published

Hobbing Thing Improved by wildseyed Nov 14, 2012

Description

The upper hole in the original hobbing thing would require support to print properly. I modified the SCAD file to fix this. I also adapted it to use 625 bearings, which are commonly found in NEMA17 steppers here in the US. In the comments of the code, you can see where the change needs to be made if you want to use a different bearing size.

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I use an M4 tap, but only because I did not have an M3 handy. I don't go very deep at all with my bolts. Just enough to get traction. I leave it to the guides in the idler (UniX Wade Extruder) to keep the filament lined up.

The reason I mention using three depths is to get more consistent results, rather than leaving it up to how much pressure you put on the tap.
What size tap do you use? I think I used an M5, which left plenty of room with a 625.

Moving the bearing lower to progressively cut deeper only really makes sense if the tap sits snuggly enough in the bearing to prevent rotation. Otherwise the cut depth can be adjusted by just putting a little pressure on the tap as it's cutting in. Personally, I found that approach to work fine without any fancy adjustments.
I don't use a bearing there either. Ideally, there should be three of these blocks. The first one should barely score the bolt, and the other two should progress from there. If I do that, I'll have to add some features to make it easy to remove the bearings without damage. Maybe just a hole to push them back out. Keep an eye out for that next weekend.

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Instructions

The print requires at least 0.3mm layers.

Worked great! This should come with every wade's extruder kit.

I found the small third bearing didn't really turn, but just provided a pivot point so I could put some pressure on the bolt with my tap tool. Maybe it could be replaced with a smooth nut or something likewise easy to find?
I don't use a bearing there either. Ideally, there should be three of these blocks. The first one should barely score the bolt, and the other two should progress from there. If I do that, I'll have to add some features to make it easy to remove the bearings without damage. Maybe just a hole to push them back out. Keep an eye out for that next weekend.
What size tap do you use? I think I used an M5, which left plenty of room with a 625.

Moving the bearing lower to progressively cut deeper only really makes sense if the tap sits snuggly enough in the bearing to prevent rotation. Otherwise the cut depth can be adjusted by just putting a little pressure on the tap as it's cutting in. Personally, I found that approach to work fine without any fancy adjustments.
I use an M4 tap, but only because I did not have an M3 handy. I don't go very deep at all with my bolts. Just enough to get traction. I leave it to the guides in the idler (UniX Wade Extruder) to keep the filament lined up.

The reason I mention using three depths is to get more consistent results, rather than leaving it up to how much pressure you put on the tap.
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