by hlyman, published

LYMAN FILAMENT EXTRUDER II by hlyman Nov 16, 2012


The LYMAN FILAMENT EXTRUDER II is a redesign or the original LYMAN FILAMENT EXTRUDER. It features less wood parts and more steel parts, as well as other material changes. The BOM includes quotations of custom parts from emachineshop.com. It is designed for resubmittion to DFC to overcome their objection to the parts being fabricated by me as custom parts.

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What are your recommendations for modifying this assembly to extrude a narrow sheet (~1.5" wide, 1mm thick), instead of a filament.

hi.. i have done this but the problem is that my motor gets stop while runnig and i have to move it maually then again it works..the problem is that is there any high torque motor than this??

And I just found out about v3

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The manual includes the instructions for fabrication and operation. See the original LYMAN FILAMENT EXTRUDER for the stl files.


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pclauinger on Feb 14, 2014 said:

What are your recommendations for modifying this assembly to extrude a narrow sheet (~1.5" wide, 1mm thick), instead of a filament.

debasish on Feb 14, 2014 said:

hi.. i have done this but the problem is that my motor gets stop while runnig and i have to move it maually then again it works..the problem is that is there any high torque motor than this??

spencermat on Jan 28, 2014 said:

Will I need a 3d printer to complete this project

hlyman on Jan 29, 2014 said:

If you don't have a 3D printer you won't need a filament extruder.

debasish on Dec 30, 2013 said:

dear sir

can i used this auger inplace of the auger suggested??i cant get the suggested auger in our country...please help me!!

i am giving you the site...please check it...i am in the middle of the project...please help!!!!!!!!!:):):):):):):)


hlyman on Dec 30, 2013 said:

You can use any auger that will fit correctly inside the core barrel. Again trial & error.

debasish on Dec 11, 2013 said:

can you publish the size and dimension of custom made material....ems file...:)

hlyman on Dec 11, 2013 said:

No, I do not support version II anymore. See V3 for a better extruder. You can build just the extruder alone.

CAG on Nov 15, 2013 said:

Hi guys,

So my friends and I have finished constructing our version of this thing, and the main problem we're encountering with it is that the pellets bind up in the pipe; from what we can tell, they just get caught between the drill it and the pipe and the whole mechanism just gets stuck.

We're going to try re-doing the gears for more torque; maybe our motor just isn't supplying enough as it is. Has anyone else run into a problem like this? How is it prevented normally?

debasish on Dec 30, 2013 said:


i had suffered from the same problem...what kind of motor do you use??do you use wiper motor or other gear motor??i used a geared motor not wiper motor.......

hlyman on Nov 17, 2013 said:

I can't answer your problem. See the extruder in my V3 extruder. I use a pellet that is oval in shape, but also the others work as well, only giving a cracking sound as they get broken up entering the pipe. Try the pellets that Inventables.com sells.

Also tolerances between your auger to pipe could be your problem. Trial and error is what I do.

aaronR on Sep 25, 2013 said:

how much do you have to upscale the sprockets before 3D printing?

hlyman on Sep 3, 2013 said:


It has a better Extruder in the assembly.

See Video:


ModulArt on Sep 3, 2013 said:

HI!! great machine. Just've dowloaded your file and i have a few questions.
1º-What's the point of the item 16 (Heat bearer insulator)? what does it do? Why can't you use just a large pipe and hold it with 2 items 6 (Hopper base)?
2º- Can it go faster just changing the motor? or it would take also a larger bit and more ºC?

3º- I don' get how you warm the tube end, i see the thermocoupler, but that is for checking the Tº or to raise it?
Thanks again!!!

mjkargar on Aug 31, 2013 said:

how many distance between part 39 and part 10 ?
my extruder has 1 inch distance from auger bit to nozzle.
is it correct?

mjkargar on Aug 27, 2013 said:

i have problem.
i make extruder but ABS don't exude from nozzle
i check temperature on 212" and 230" and 270".
please help me

hlyman on Sep 3, 2013 said:

Can''t help, you must have built it wrong. New version 3 extrudes with 175 temp.

hlyman on Aug 31, 2013 said:

Maybe you are using the wrong pellets. My first versions I was using the wrong pellets. They were the injection molding version. That is why it took 212 C to extrude. My new version V3 I am using extrusion grade pellets and extruding at 175 C.

gizmo on Aug 11, 2013 said:

Does anyone have information on the following references:

- motor

- Screw / barrel

for the following projects:

- http://www.kickstarter.com/pro...

- http://www.kickstarter.com/pro...

Because they come to the 3-4 ft / min / (47 inch)


cae2100 on Aug 10, 2013 said:

I have been looking at building one of these, and wondering how much power the whole thing pulls? I run my garage off of solar, so trying to calculate all current drain to see how well it will run.

elmoret on Aug 11, 2013 said:

About 300w peak. If you're power conscious, look into the Filastruder - it draws 50w.

phonx on Aug 6, 2013 said:

HI hlyman;

I have been follow your progress and its seem the confusion with version1 and 2 really get a lot of question. Is it too much to ask that you could unify into say one Final version or version3...?

Tibbey on Jul 30, 2013 said:


I don't know if it's just me being dim, but I can't find where the parts are on emachineshop. Is there anywhere that I can find the CAD files?



hlyman on Jul 30, 2013 said:

You will not find the emachineshop files as they were only produced for pricing the parts for the DFC competition. DXF files were uploaded on my first version.

giacc on Jul 29, 2013 said:

Hi. Congrats to everyone.

I am having trouble wring the Thermocouple on the PID.

I have close-to-none experience on PIDs. I bought a XMGT-818 PID, which is different than the one onthe BOM. I have set the Input power to the PID and the ouput to the SSR relay, but I cannot understand the connection to the thermocouple. On the diagram it points that there are 3 input pins, like on a variable resistor, but the thermocouple has only a red and a white wire.

Please help me here! I need some light...

Thanks in advance.

hlyman on Jul 29, 2013 said:

The PID should have separate + & - terminals for the thermocouple. Just make sure you connect them correctly. Not knowing your PID I can't tell where they are.

menos50 on Jul 28, 2013 said:

Hugh... found it below... thanks.

menos50 on Jul 28, 2013 said:

Hugh, what is the approximate position of the tip of the screw in relation to the brass outlet fitting ? and have you had any problems with this spacing that had to be adjusted?

nexusvirtual on Jul 25, 2013 said:

The wiring Diagram does NOT work.
The "White Neutral" line goes to the Solid State Relay and STOPS.
The relay is Normally Open and power does not go to the power supply at all.
The part of the wiring that shows the White Neutral passing OVER and not connecting to the power supply is wrong.

Power MUST be connected to the power supply to power the PID and everything else that feeds off the power supply (Motor, voltage reg etc)

Please fix your wiring diagram to save other people time.

hlyman on Jul 26, 2013 said:

You are right.
Just remove the pass over half circle line from the wiring diagram and that will indicate the 110v neutral line connecting to the PID and the RELAY.

dventoza on Jul 19, 2013 said:

I'm struggling to find the Type K thermocoupler. Does anyone have any suggestions on where to find and buy one? Thanks

nexusvirtual on Jul 25, 2013 said:

ebay. $3!
Or they are included FREE with your PID (Temp controller)

Revolve3D on Jul 21, 2013 said:


fractalprism on Jul 18, 2013 said:

Thank you for taking the extra time to make a detailed instruction guide. You make the difference.

dcmchenry on Jul 15, 2013 said:

I am building an extruder with 3/4" diameter screw.

Using an industrial quality 90VDC gearmotor and KB brand motor controller I am lucky enough to have in my pack rat pile of stuff.

Can't see why the hopper section cannot be steel pipe nipple and two flanges instead of custom made aluminum parts that Hyman calls out.

This is what I am going to try, just cut and opening in a section of pipe where the hopper goes.

If anyone knows a reason that won't work let me know.

What is recommended clearance between the screw and the bores?
As close as possible without binding?

Also I am unsure how close the screw should come to the end. I read one post where they said the thermocouple should come through the wall and into the bore to contact the plastic. They said in this case you would want the screw to end before that so it does not hit it. But would not the thermocouple be fine just clamped to the heater aluminum?

Also wonder if it world be good to use or at lleast allow for two heaters.

This is what is done on industrial extruders to warm the plastic in two stages.

I plan to try running a variety of different plastics including Alcryn Rubber and other flexible stuff.

Dave McHenry 678 849-1924

hlyman on Jul 15, 2013 said:

The extruder parts can be anything that works. All your ideas may be better than mine.

To me it is so simple to use a Type K thermocouple that I just stuck on top of the barrel and wrapped kapton tap around it.

I have used different spacings of the auger end to the nozzle and all of them worked. Right now I have one at 1/4" spacing on my V3 model.

mjkargar on Jul 15, 2013 said:

i living in Iran and can't buy ABS pellets from ebay.
what grade of ABS use for 3d printer?

hlyman on Jul 15, 2013 said:


matthias87 on Jul 6, 2013 said:

Hi :)
i'm trying to build my own Extruder.
ever tryed to Change pipe Diameter? In Europe i've to buy metric scrab

matesome on Jul 5, 2013 said:

Would it be possible to create wood fillament with your invention?

Tesseract on Jun 11, 2013 said:

What display panel unit are you using for the temp readout

hlyman on Jun 12, 2013 said:

Read the BOM

zachjowi on Jun 10, 2013 said:

How long is Item 20 and do you have specs for the size of cut? I would like to make that from an off the shelf pipe nipple.

hlyman on Jun 10, 2013 said:

5" cut 2-3/4" to 3".

Cos on May 30, 2013 said:

I have finished my extruder (http://www.thingiverse.com/thi... as i mentioned 2 months ago) but i have some problems on extruding straight filament with steady diameter. Question... can you make a video on how i guide the filament from the nozzle, and how i make it flow steady and make spirals on the ground. my filament is too straight and does not make a curve to facilitate spiral... plz help

hlyman on May 30, 2013 said:

I don't know how to make your fialment spiral if it won't. Try having the extruder higher off the floor at 36". Try moving the extruder closer or farther from the table edge.
Trial and error.

i-make-robots on May 30, 2013 said:

Hi! I have been watching a friend assemble one of your filament extruders. The ID of the tube is much wider than the OD of the auger. Is this correct?

hlyman on May 30, 2013 said:

No. The auger OD should be close to the tube ID.

zachjowi on May 29, 2013 said:

Any idea where to get the Kawasaki bit?

zachjowi on Jun 2, 2013 said:

I can't find one anywhere and I need to have the hex shank to fit with the sprockets I printed.

TShrake on May 27, 2013 said:

Quick question this works on plastic, how about alternative materials like wax

hlyman on May 28, 2013 said:

Try it. Also try silicone.

therobotfish on May 27, 2013 said:

I'm trying to remake this project myself and I'm wondering you determined the speed the motor should run at to extrude the plastic. Is this a trial and error process or is there some thought behind the speed?

hlyman on May 27, 2013 said:

Read the manual page page 6 and trial and error.

zachjowi on May 26, 2013 said:

Is there part files for the gears somewhere or can I order them?

hlyman on May 27, 2013 said:

stl files are downloaded in version one.

Astrolab on May 19, 2013 said:


I ask myself the following question:
How did you let the diameter screw 5/8'' in a pipe 1/2''?

EricGrow on May 25, 2013 said:

I have been struggling with this too. I believe the diameter of the auger (drill bit), is labeled corresponding to its actual size, but pipe apparently is not. If you google something like "nominal pipe sizes", you'll find that the inner diameter of standard 1/2in pipe is larger than 1/2-inch. Apparently it is just big enough to accommodate a 5/8in bit. The parts are very difficult to find here in Argentina, so if those with experience could chime in here, I believe it will help me in correctly ordering the pieces online. Also, I would like to know what length auger to look for. Have I correctly calculated that it should be about 13" (33cm) long?

ReneH on May 16, 2013 said:

Hi, i am Rene from Germany, can you ship the items of filament extruder to Germany unassembled? I take the shipping costs. Maybe a plan for assembling.

Thank you

Astrolab on May 16, 2013 said:

Excellent work, all my congratulations!

I am not a specialist and I begin in this machine type.

I have some questions on the functioning or choice of the pieces.

I am sorry if my questions are stupid or are not clear but the English is not my mother tongue and on speaks technical.

#47 kapon type is to protect us from the heat or to concentrate the heat?

# 37 aluminums flat bar: Which is his interest? Why not to put directly the "band heater"?

Which is the interest of the block (14,35,36,38,19) with the fixings? Which is the role of every part?

Thank you for your responses!

hlyman on May 16, 2013 said:

Kapton tape is used to hold the thermocouple to the hot 1/2" iron coupling.
You don't need alum flat bars if your heat band fits the 1/2" iron coupling.
Part # 14 and 19 allow adjustment for alignment of the auger bit.
Pars # 35,36,38, keep the auger bit in place so it does not back out from the thrust pressure.

arnold on May 16, 2013 said:

I am in the process of building this project, but I have had trouble sourcing the voltage regulator, would any one have the part or model number from the Ebay seller or any other source. Thanks

hlyman on May 16, 2013 said:
tshephard on May 12, 2013 said:

You're selling two of them?

gizmo on May 10, 2013 said:


good job

-Why the part #10 is in aluminum and not in brass that is more conducting?

-Why are the parts #28 and #30 in aluminum and not in plastic? (To do turn the mechanism of reduction in plastic)

-what serves part #38?


hlyman on May 12, 2013 said:

Sorry for the error, part #10 is brass, see picture.
I tried plastic for parts 28 and 30 and the small sprocket broke.
Part 38 is bushing I added because the auger shaft squeaked.
My version 3 will have a direct gear motor drive.

Revolve3D on May 3, 2013 said:

Does anyone know a suitable auger. i bought a dewalt auger but the bearings dont fit.

Revolve3D on Apr 26, 2013 said:

i really want to build one but I am wondering about the parts from emachine shop. Has anyone bought these custom parts? Also has anyone used the Black pipe kit on ebay. It is parts no 21 and 20. Any thoughts on those pre cut pipes?

twalsh341 on Apr 25, 2013 said:

Even from the eBay seller listed, I can't find a voltage regulator like the one you are using. Does anyone have link to one? All I can come up with are little transistor types. Would a potentiometer work instead?

Revolve3D on May 2, 2013 said:

I just bought mine from amazon for $6.00

mjurick on Apr 24, 2013 said:

This looks fantastic--awesome job! Do you know if this would work just as well with PLA material?

Zuider on Apr 19, 2013 said:

Congratulations from the Netherlands,
Great idea.
Maybe i can give you a new idea for an update, direct printing from pellets to objects........
Does someone massproduce your Extruder ? I am not the greatest builder...
You just won that title

_brant on Apr 17, 2013 said:

The design calls for a "heat barrier" made out of high density polyethylene (HDPE). According to what I read here:

HDPE has a max temperature of 120ºC. In order to melt ABS plastic, the Lyman extruder will have to reach temperatures quite a bit higher than 120ºC. So, I'm guessing that the reason this works is that the heat of the flange that the heat barrier is touching doesn't reach above 120ºC even when you are extruding ABS at a higher temperature. Is that the case, or does this extruder only work for PLA that extrudes at a much lower temperature?

Either way, is there a particular reason why HDPE is a better material for the heat barrier than, for example, ABS?

hlyman on Apr 17, 2013 said:


Sorry for the confusion. The heat bearer I used was #9353K31 from McMaster-Carr. It is an insulation board. It is listed in the BOM of my first version extruder.

The emachineshop part shown was for pricing only & I forgot to list the the McMaster part #.

Thanks for the congrats.

_brant on Apr 17, 2013 said:

Congratulations to Lyman for winning the contest!

Anonymous on Apr 2, 2013 said:

Congrats on the prize!!

disneytoy on Mar 31, 2013 said:

any instructions on where to buy the raw ABS pellets and what is the proces of adding the colorants?

duann on Mar 18, 2013 said:


This changes everything!!!!!

Congrats Hugh,

I wrote about this on the Shapeways Blog


meika on Mar 18, 2013 said:

Manual lists the size for Part 36 thrust bearing as 16-Jul.

Is this a spreadsheet error?
7/16" ?

Lawry on Mar 17, 2013 said:

Congrats Mr. Lyman, I have to admit though I have been wondering exactly what you did. The various articles I have seen suggest you have invented the polymer extruder. But I have been working with little lab size extruders for ~25 years and I know that basic extruder technology has been around at least since Brabender got in the business ~90 years ago.
I mean no insult, you must have done something great and original that is too technical for the general articles, I just wish I could find something online that explained what you did in more technical terms.

tshephard on Mar 23, 2013 said:

I mean no insult, but did you bother reading the attachments? As for what he did, he figured out how to make an extruder cheaply.

Cos on Mar 16, 2013 said:

Finally here is my derivative! http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

Congratulations Mr Lyman for winning the contest!
Thanks for making home filament extrusion reality!

brnrd on Mar 14, 2013 said:

Would anyone like to comment on how uniform the extruded filament is? It seems fast enough to even feed a 3D printer in real time. But is the filament uniform enough?

hlyman on Mar 15, 2013 said:

The filament can be fairly uniform if you control the variables. The most difficult is feeding the filament after it leaves the hotend as it is soft and tend to stretch.
Feeding it direct to the printer is the next step.

spicer23 on Mar 13, 2013 said:

Hello Hugh, A Big Congrats on winning! I'm choosing to get a 3D Printer now...:-)

corski67 on Mar 12, 2013 said:

Hugh... Just read aboutt your award in the CH (our home town paper). Congratulations! I mentor the robotics club at the high school (EHS) and we're in thhe processs of selecting a printer design to print robot parts. You're an inspiration to the kids in the club... Someone from their own home town!

feilen on Mar 9, 2013 said:

Have you tried extruding any courser pellets? That would greatly increase the variety of plastic providers available.

hlyman on Mar 9, 2013 said:

I tried some courser pellets and they bound up a little between the auger and the pipe. Will test again as I now have my extruder returned to me. I believe increasing the auger to a 3/4" size may work better.

rswarner on Mar 8, 2013 said:

Congratulations! I admire your accomplishment!

mortinus on Mar 7, 2013 said:

Congrats on your win!!!!

plasmator on Mar 5, 2013 said:

A quick question for Mr. Lyman:

Since I imagine that you're retired now, what did you do for a living? Just curious what led you to this point :)

hlyman on Mar 15, 2013 said:

I owned and ran a company for 26 years, making laboratory casework and fume hoods.

bbulzak on Mar 5, 2013 said:

Congrats on the prize! Now let's design a production unit :)

datamarles on Mar 5, 2013 said:

Please if anyone knows the email address of Jebba, to buy a LYMAN FILAMENT EXTRUDER II


Phrank on Mar 6, 2013 said:

A bit of Googling and I found out that Jebba is Jeff Moe, owner of Lulzbot. A bit more Googling found an email address of [email protected] I think it can be assumed though, that Mr Lyman's earlier post in regards to Lulzbot making them, and then a later comment about Jebba making them refers to the same person/entity.. My advice is to simply wait for Lulzbot to announce that the extruders are being sold.

datamarles on Mar 5, 2013 said:

It's a bit frustrating not being able to buy the machine from Mr. Lyman I personally I have no time to make one of these machines. Mr. Lyman congratulate him for this great invention

phonx on Mar 5, 2013 said:

$40,000 winner! you deserve every bits thank for sharing great idea

3DTOPO on Mar 5, 2013 said:


aliekens on Mar 4, 2013 said:

Congratulations on winning the contest. It looks like a great machine with some great results. In your manual, there's order notes for 400 of each part of the machine, to be shipped to Inventables. I assume they'll start to sell kits for your extruder any day now?

hlyman on Mar 5, 2013 said:

I don't thing Inventables will be making the extruder. Check with Jebba, he is making prototypes now for sale

jkeegan on Mar 4, 2013 said:

CONGRATULATIONS!!! I was rooting for you! Using today's news as motivation to order my parts right now. :)

hlyman on Mar 4, 2013 said:

I am excited to let all know that I did win the DFC contest. See link below:


3Dpatjack on Apr 3, 2013 said:

Congratulations. It's nice to see words, good old words like "auger" as you describe the machine in your YouTube presentations.

owen on Mar 26, 2013 said:


garyhodgson on Mar 4, 2013 said:

Congratulations Hugh on winning the Instructables contest!


datamarles on Mar 1, 2013 said:

I think there will be many people interested to buy this machine if anyone knows where to buy I would appreciate advance

hlyman on Mar 2, 2013 said:

The Lyman Filament Extruder is being made for sale by Lulzbot.com. I don't know when it will be available

I do not make them for sale.

datamarles on Mar 1, 2013 said:

I am a teacher of new technologies and have a 3D printer in a school in Madrid Spain, I wonder, to buy a LYMAN FILAMENT EXTRUDER II to teach my students and to save on the purchase of filament. working with PLA


ohin on Feb 18, 2013 said:

I posted some pictures of our attempt to build your filament extruder (description is in Czech): http://3dforum.cz/index.php?p=...

We had to exchange the heat band by resistive foil, as it was hard (=very expensive) to get it here. After few attempts to find the best way of assembling it, we were able to get it heat up up to 220°C.

One more thing we need to handle before our first attempt to extrude, wish us luck!

And we say big THANK YOU to Mr. Lyman for his project!

kojinakata on Feb 6, 2013 said:

What is the thing used between aluminum flat bars and the band heater? I cannot seem to find it in your drawings or bom.

hlyman on Feb 7, 2013 said:

Nothing. No part #. Part #47 is kaplon tape to hold the thermistor,

cmm on Feb 6, 2013 said:

Part #38 brass bushing is listed as having been custom created at emachineshop.com and description says 10mm. Can I get the full dimensions for this part because I am not quite clear on what to order. Also, Hugh, I hope you win!! Good luck!!

hlyman on Feb 6, 2013 said:

Naturally I hope I win also and thanks. I think I made the bushing as I did with many of custom parts. emachineshop parts were only greated to get pricing for custom parts.

Fit you bushing to your auger.

I noticed on page 19 that I called out an ALUMINUM nozzle, however I made mine out of brass.

Good luck.

turuncu on Feb 6, 2013 said:

i have been searching but couldn't find. is there a metric bom?

hlyman on Feb 6, 2013 said:

Multiply inches by 25.4 and you get metric dimensions.

hlyman on Feb 5, 2013 said:

You don't get the parts from emachineshop.com, you make them or you get a local machine shop to make them for you.

emachineshop was used to get pricing for 400 units in my second submission to DFC.

Errors do happen, you figure it out.

Your posting is shown 4 times, maybe you should delete 3 of them.

bfish85 on Feb 5, 2013 said:

Thanks for the info -- posts weren't showing up at first, so I mistakenly kept trying to submit it. Deleted the 3x others.

wmccolm on Feb 4, 2013 said:

Great design! How much distance is there between the auger bit and the extruder plug? I'm working with a bit that has a shorter shank than your Kawasaki bit and so I don't have a good reference point for figuring this out. My intuition is that the auger bit should terminate just before the coupler. Thx for your help!

hlyman on Feb 5, 2013 said:

The end of the auger bit is at the beginning to the 1/2" pipe coupler.

Cos on Feb 1, 2013 said:

My derivtive is almost there!.. one last thing.. what is the chain characteristics? width, step, etc? plz dont tell me 'just a bicycle chain!'

hlyman on Feb 1, 2013 said:

But it is a bicycle roller chain. I ordered it online from WatMart for $8.00.


Model # 301125, 1/2" 112 links, 1/8" deep.

bottleworks on Jan 29, 2013 said:

So, did you win the contest?

hlyman on Jan 29, 2013 said:

I have not yet been notified.

turuncu on Jan 28, 2013 said:

will this set work? if so do i need to buy anything else for the electronics?


hlyman on Jan 28, 2013 said:

Looks good to me.
Read the BOM for other electronics.

tshephard on Jan 28, 2013 said:

Great work. Hope you're the one they're reviewing right now for color.

nemesis_telsor on Jan 23, 2013 said:

What is the rpm for your motor? And how did you find the right speed?

hlyman on Jan 23, 2013 said:

The rpm is variable with the
voltage regulator. At 3 volts it is around 3 rpm.
The right speed is accomplished by

nemesis_telsor on Jan 4, 2013 said:

I have a question regarding the placement of the thermocouple sensor. Where on the hot end do you place it, to get the most correct temperature? - and not just the temperature from the heat-band, thus creating a bad reading by the PID controller.

hlyman on Jan 4, 2013 said:

See part 44 on Page 11 in the manual. The thermocouple is placed net to heat band on the 12" coupling so it isn;t in the way of a pipe wrench when changing the nozzle.

Cos on Dec 15, 2012 said:

I cannot understand the purpose of parts #35, #36, #38 do i really need them? can i substitute them with simpler parts? it is difficult to find them in my whereabouts. I also have found teflon as heat insulator.. will it work? thnx

hlyman on Dec 15, 2012 said:

You will defenitly need parts # 35,36 & 38.  You certainly can substite them with any make that will fit the auger bit.

Cos on Dec 15, 2012 said:

I am puzzled about nozzle hole for extruded plastic of 3mm nominal diameter. My drill bit is measured 3mm, and i am not sure if a hole drilled by this bit will lead to a filament of 3mm within normal tolerances. I mean, will i need a drill bit with different diameter for 3mm filament? if yes what size?

hlyman on Dec 15, 2012 said:

The hole size should be smaller than 3mm.  Start out with an small bit around 2mm, extrud, measure then ream with a larger bit till you get the right diameter. Most commercial 3mm filament I have purchased is about 2.85mm. As the hole size I use for 1.75mm is about a #53 bit which is .059" diameter.

elmoret on Dec 9, 2012 said:

Just as a heads up to everyone, I made a similar/derived version of this. Kits are available here: http://www.soliforum.com/topic...

Marcella on Dec 7, 2012 said:

Hi anybody know where i can buy the 12V wiper motor, mosterguts is out of stock. Thanks

tuncayd on Dec 8, 2012 said:

I found mine at local junkyard.

Cos on Dec 8, 2012 said:

 have you heard about ebay? :-)


hlyman on Dec 2, 2012 said:

I did a complete breakdown when I designed and made this version.
I found no problem with the insulator so I still used the same.
The thrust bearing has two washers on each side, The right one bears against the brass bushing in bearing plate. My thrust bearing now has over 50 hours with no problem.

elmoret on Dec 2, 2012 said:

Interesting. I'm not sure why in your case the plastic pellets aren't abrading the insulator and turning it into powder.

elmoret on Dec 1, 2012 said:

Have you done a full teardown of one of your extruders yet?

If so, what is the condition of the inside of the white insulator, and the thrust bearing?

I am finding that the thrust bearing is only good for about 24 hours of use, and that the white insulator is flaking into the pellets, contaminating the filament.


bottleworks on Dec 1, 2012 said:

 I can say on the one I made, I added a collar to prevent that.  I didn't do it at first until after I started making some additional mods.

rsenas on Nov 30, 2012 said:

 I am doing and putting the pieces together to build and am enjoying the progress of the extruder, congratulations.

Cos on Nov 25, 2012 said:

 what are your extruding temps?
i can see from the pic that you extrude ABS at 212 C. right?

hlyman on Nov 29, 2012 said:


yopus on Nov 19, 2012 said:

Thanks a lot for the upgrade !

 Can you tell us how much Watt per hour  the filament extruder needs at full speed ?
As there seem to be quite few electric expences it would be interresting to know how much le filament will really cost.

Cos on Nov 19, 2012 said:

 According to BOM, band heater's consumption is 250W. Plus 24W(2Ax12V) motor consumption at full power.
Altogether: 250+24=274 W/h.

bottleworks on Nov 18, 2012 said:

I just don't get how they could reject your old design.  They expect all parts to be off the shelf?

Cos on Nov 17, 2012 said:

I have found this pid controller.. since i am inexperienced in such things, plz advice, is this the pid controller you use? shall i buy it?


hlyman on Nov 17, 2012 said:


Looks like it will work, however I bought mine for $24 shipping
included, and then I used a thermocouple I got for $1.00.  But the last
thermocouple I got cost $1.78.

hlyman on Nov 16, 2012 said:

Found another error in the BOM.  Part #27, 5x15mm Set Screw should be 5x20mm. Sorry.

hlyman on Nov 16, 2012 said:

I goofed with the Manual and forgot 4 pages. It has been revised and re-uploaded to include the photo's. 
I just finished extruding enough 3mm filament to last me after I send the machine to DFC.
It took 16 hours to extrude 1 Kg of 1.75mm filament, but it only took 6 hours to extrude 3 lbs of 3mm filament which I use.
Winding 3mm filament on my spool winder is harder than winding 1.75mm filament because of the twisting as the filament before it winds up. So this is a work in progress.

flink on Nov 16, 2012 said:

You do rock. Great machine!

Yamagata on Nov 16, 2012 said:

i need one!
great job!

mkc2 on Nov 16, 2012 said:

looking good Hugh!!
Just need to make my hopper then i'm finished, will post pictures soon.

bbriggstkd on Nov 16, 2012 said:

Will your extruder work with shreded/recycled plastic or only pellets?

hlyman on Nov 16, 2012 said:

I don't know not having tried any.  I bought 15 lbs of pellets for $35 including shipping, and as that is $2.34 / lb I am not sure I want to got the grinder route.

jebba on Nov 16, 2012 said:

Nice Hugh! We're still hacking away at our version 1. It is close, but hasn't been run yet. We'll take a look at your new changes. Thanks!

3DTOPO on Nov 16, 2012 said:

Well played sir, well played.