LYMAN FILAMENT EXTRUDER II
Description
Instructions
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How long is Item 20 and do you have specs for the size of cut? I would like to make that from an off the shelf pipe nipple.
I have finished my extruder (http://www.thingiverse.com/thi... as i mentioned 2 months ago) but i have some problems on extruding straight filament with steady diameter. Question... can you make a video on how i guide the filament from the nozzle, and how i make it flow steady and make spirals on the ground. my filament is too straight and does not make a curve to facilitate spiral... plz help
Hi! I have been watching a friend assemble one of your filament extruders. The ID of the tube is much wider than the OD of the auger. Is this correct?
Quick question this works on plastic, how about alternative materials like wax
I'm trying to remake this project myself and I'm wondering you determined the speed the motor should run at to extrude the plastic. Is this a trial and error process or is there some thought behind the speed?
hi,
I ask myself the following question:
How did you let the diameter screw 5/8'' in a pipe 1/2''?
I have been struggling with this too. I believe the diameter of the auger (drill bit), is labeled corresponding to its actual size, but pipe apparently is not. If you google something like "nominal pipe sizes", you'll find that the inner diameter of standard 1/2in pipe is larger than 1/2-inch. Apparently it is just big enough to accommodate a 5/8in bit. The parts are very difficult to find here in Argentina, so if those with experience could chime in here, I believe it will help me in correctly ordering the pieces online. Also, I would like to know what length auger to look for. Have I correctly calculated that it should be about 13" (33cm) long?
Hi, i am Rene from Germany, can you ship the items of filament extruder to Germany unassembled? I take the shipping costs. Maybe a plan for assembling.
Thank you
Excellent work, all my congratulations!
I am not a specialist and I begin in this machine type.
I have some questions on the functioning or choice of the pieces.
I am sorry if my questions are stupid or are not clear but the English is not my mother tongue and on speaks technical.
#47 kapon type is to protect us from the heat or to concentrate the heat?
# 37 aluminums flat bar: Which is his interest? Why not to put directly the "band heater"?
Which is the interest of the block (14,35,36,38,19) with the fixings? Which is the role of every part?
Thank you for your responses!
Kapton tape is used to hold the thermocouple to the hot 1/2" iron coupling.
You don't need alum flat bars if your heat band fits the 1/2" iron coupling.
Part # 14 and 19 allow adjustment for alignment of the auger bit.
Pars # 35,36,38, keep the auger bit in place so it does not back out from the thrust pressure.
I am in the process of building this project, but I have had trouble sourcing the voltage regulator, would any one have the part or model number from the Ebay seller or any other source. Thanks
Hello,
good job
-Why the part #10 is in aluminum and not in brass that is more conducting?
-Why are the parts #28 and #30 in aluminum and not in plastic? (To do turn the mechanism of reduction in plastic)
-what serves part #38?
thanks
Does anyone know a suitable auger. i bought a dewalt auger but the bearings dont fit.
i really want to build one but I am wondering about the parts from emachine shop. Has anyone bought these custom parts? Also has anyone used the Black pipe kit on ebay. It is parts no 21 and 20. Any thoughts on those pre cut pipes?
Even from the eBay seller listed, I can't find a voltage regulator like the one you are using. Does anyone have link to one? All I can come up with are little transistor types. Would a potentiometer work instead?
This looks fantastic--awesome job! Do you know if this would work just as well with PLA material?
Congratulations from the Netherlands,
Great idea.
Maybe i can give you a new idea for an update, direct printing from pellets to objects........
Does someone massproduce your Extruder ? I am not the greatest builder...
You just won that title
Richard
The design calls for a "heat barrier" made out of high density polyethylene (HDPE). According to what I read here:
http://www.dynalabcorp.com/tec...
HDPE has a max temperature of 120ºC. In order to melt ABS plastic, the Lyman extruder will have to reach temperatures quite a bit higher than 120ºC. So, I'm guessing that the reason this works is that the heat of the flange that the heat barrier is touching doesn't reach above 120ºC even when you are extruding ABS at a higher temperature. Is that the case, or does this extruder only work for PLA that extrudes at a much lower temperature?
Either way, is there a particular reason why HDPE is a better material for the heat barrier than, for example, ABS?
brant,
Sorry for the confusion. The heat bearer I used was #9353K31 from McMaster-Carr. It is an insulation board. It is listed in the BOM of my first version extruder.
The emachineshop part shown was for pricing only & I forgot to list the the McMaster part #.
Thanks for the congrats.
any instructions on where to buy the raw ABS pellets and what is the proces of adding the colorants?
Wow,
This changes everything!!!!!
Congrats Hugh,
I wrote about this on the Shapeways Blog
Manual lists the size for Part 36 thrust bearing as 16-Jul.
Is this a spreadsheet error?
16-7?
7/16" ?
Congrats Mr. Lyman, I have to admit though I have been wondering exactly what you did. The various articles I have seen suggest you have invented the polymer extruder. But I have been working with little lab size extruders for ~25 years and I know that basic extruder technology has been around at least since Brabender got in the business ~90 years ago.
I mean no insult, you must have done something great and original that is too technical for the general articles, I just wish I could find something online that explained what you did in more technical terms.
Finally here is my derivative! http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...
Congratulations Mr Lyman for winning the contest!
Thanks for making home filament extrusion reality!
Would anyone like to comment on how uniform the extruded filament is? It seems fast enough to even feed a 3D printer in real time. But is the filament uniform enough?
Hello Hugh, A Big Congrats on winning! I'm choosing to get a 3D Printer now...:-)
Hugh... Just read aboutt your award in the CH (our home town paper). Congratulations! I mentor the robotics club at the high school (EHS) and we're in thhe processs of selecting a printer design to print robot parts. You're an inspiration to the kids in the club... Someone from their own home town!
Have you tried extruding any courser pellets? That would greatly increase the variety of plastic providers available.
A quick question for Mr. Lyman:
Since I imagine that you're retired now, what did you do for a living? Just curious what led you to this point :)
Please if anyone knows the email address of Jebba, to buy a LYMAN FILAMENT EXTRUDER II
thanks
A bit of Googling and I found out that Jebba is Jeff Moe, owner of Lulzbot. A bit more Googling found an email address of moe@alephobjects.com. I think it can be assumed though, that Mr Lyman's earlier post in regards to Lulzbot making them, and then a later comment about Jebba making them refers to the same person/entity.. My advice is to simply wait for Lulzbot to announce that the extruders are being sold.
It's a bit frustrating not being able to buy the machine from Mr. Lyman I personally I have no time to make one of these machines. Mr. Lyman congratulate him for this great invention
Congratulations on winning the contest. It looks like a great machine with some great results. In your manual, there's order notes for 400 of each part of the machine, to be shipped to Inventables. I assume they'll start to sell kits for your extruder any day now?
CONGRATULATIONS!!! I was rooting for you! Using today's news as motivation to order my parts right now. :)
I am excited to let all know that I did win the DFC contest. See link below:
I think there will be many people interested to buy this machine if anyone knows where to buy I would appreciate advance
I am a teacher of new technologies and have a 3D printer in a school in Madrid Spain, I wonder, to buy a LYMAN FILAMENT EXTRUDER II to teach my students and to save on the purchase of filament. working with PLA
thanks
I posted some pictures of our attempt to build your filament extruder (description is in Czech): http://3dforum.cz/index.php?p=...
We had to exchange the heat band by resistive foil, as it was hard (=very expensive) to get it here. After few attempts to find the best way of assembling it, we were able to get it heat up up to 220°C.
One more thing we need to handle before our first attempt to extrude, wish us luck!
And we say big THANK YOU to Mr. Lyman for his project!
What is the thing used between aluminum flat bars and the band heater? I cannot seem to find it in your drawings or bom.
Part #38 brass bushing is listed as having been custom created at emachineshop.com and description says 10mm. Can I get the full dimensions for this part because I am not quite clear on what to order. Also, Hugh, I hope you win!! Good luck!!
Naturally I hope I win also and thanks. I think I made the bushing as I did with many of custom parts. emachineshop parts were only greated to get pricing for custom parts.
Fit you bushing to your auger.
I noticed on page 19 that I called out an ALUMINUM nozzle, however I made mine out of brass.
Good luck.
You don't get the parts from emachineshop.com, you make them or you get a local machine shop to make them for you.
emachineshop was used to get pricing for 400 units in my second submission to DFC.
Errors do happen, you figure it out.
Your posting is shown 4 times, maybe you should delete 3 of them.
Great design! How much distance is there between the auger bit and the extruder plug? I'm working with a bit that has a shorter shank than your Kawasaki bit and so I don't have a good reference point for figuring this out. My intuition is that the auger bit should terminate just before the coupler. Thx for your help!
My derivtive is almost there!.. one last thing.. what is the chain characteristics? width, step, etc? plz dont tell me 'just a bicycle chain!'
thnx
will this set work? if so do i need to buy anything else for the electronics?
Great work. Hope you're the one they're reviewing right now for color.
What is the rpm for your motor? And how did you find the right speed?
I have a question regarding the placement of the thermocouple sensor. Where on the hot end do you place it, to get the most correct temperature? - and not just the temperature from the heat-band, thus creating a bad reading by the PID controller.
I cannot understand the purpose of parts #35, #36, #38 do i really need them? can i substitute them with simpler parts? it is difficult to find them in my whereabouts. I also have found teflon as heat insulator.. will it work? thnx
I am puzzled about nozzle hole for extruded plastic of 3mm nominal diameter. My drill bit is measured 3mm, and i am not sure if a hole drilled by this bit will lead to a filament of 3mm within normal tolerances. I mean, will i need a drill bit with different diameter for 3mm filament? if yes what size?
The hole size should be smaller than 3mm. Start out with an small bit around 2mm, extrud, measure then ream with a larger bit till you get the right diameter. Most commercial 3mm filament I have purchased is about 2.85mm. As the hole size I use for 1.75mm is about a #53 bit which is .059" diameter.
Just as a heads up to everyone, I made a similar/derived version of this. Kits are available here: http://www.soliforum.com/topic...
I did a complete breakdown when I designed and made this version.
I found no problem with the insulator so I still used the same.
The thrust bearing has two washers on each side, The right one bears against the brass bushing in bearing plate. My thrust bearing now has over 50 hours with no problem.
Have you done a full teardown of one of your extruders yet?
If so, what is the condition of the inside of the white insulator, and the thrust bearing?
I am finding that the thrust bearing is only good for about 24 hours of use, and that the white insulator is flaking into the pellets, contaminating the filament.
Thanks!
I am doing and putting the pieces together to build and am enjoying the progress of the extruder, congratulations.
what are your extruding temps?
i can see from the pic that you extrude ABS at 212 C. right?
Thanks a lot for the upgrade !
Can you tell us how much Watt per hour the filament extruder needs at full speed ?
As there seem to be quite few electric expences it would be interresting to know how much le filament will really cost.
I just don't get how they could reject your old design. They expect all parts to be off the shelf?
I have found this pid controller.. since i am inexperienced in such things, plz advice, is this the pid controller you use? shall i buy it?
Found another error in the BOM. Part #27, 5x15mm Set Screw should be 5x20mm. Sorry.
I goofed with the Manual and forgot 4 pages. It has been revised and re-uploaded to include the photo's.
I just finished extruding enough 3mm filament to last me after I send the machine to DFC.
It took 16 hours to extrude 1 Kg of 1.75mm filament, but it only took 6 hours to extrude 3 lbs of 3mm filament which I use.
Winding 3mm filament on my spool winder is harder than winding 1.75mm filament because of the twisting as the filament before it winds up. So this is a work in progress.
looking good Hugh!!
Just need to make my hopper then i'm finished, will post pictures soon.
Will your extruder work with shreded/recycled plastic or only pellets?
Nice Hugh! We're still hacking away at our version 1. It is close, but hasn't been run yet. We'll take a look at your new changes. Thanks!
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Read the BOM