Acrylic Case for Solidoodle 2
by ianjohnson, published
This is an acrylic case for the Solidoodle 2, held on by 1/4" magnets. The top is raised to provide more room for the filament to bend on the way to the extruder. It is also removable to provide easy access for changing filament and adjusting the Z screw without taking the whole thing off. Each side pops off easily for easy access to the print or glass clips from the side. The right side has an opening sized for an 80mm fan. You can use the fan to blow in to cool the print area for PLA, or blow out through a filter for ventilation. Or you can use it to blow hot air in from a heater to raise the ambient temperature of the case. I plan on designing some attachments for the hot air duct.
The door is the one that comes with the metal case. If you do not have one, try contacting Solidoodle and see if they will sell you a door a la carte. Otherwise, it shouldn't be too difficult to design one of your own.
Here is some video featuring the case - http://youtu.be/uBgVFn7DZCs
Laser cut the DXF, or have it done for you. It will probably cost around $60 from Ponoko, I found a local plastic shop to do it for me. It is designed for 3/16" or 5mm acrylic.
The top piece should overlap the side panels and front/back pieces. Glue or solvent weld the front/back pieces to the top. The front piece has extra cutouts to go over the rivets on the front top of the frame. The notches are for the magnets, which should be glued in place.
The back piece has extra holes for magnets at the sides. This is so you can open the top and stand it up on the back of the frame.
The top piece is about 4mm short of the back edge. I found that when I warm the inside of the case, the top expands about that much, so this keeps it from hanging off the back.
There are shims/feet for the bottom edges, with holes to fit around the rivets and magnets. This keeps the acrylic from dragging on the table when you move the printer around, and holds it clear of the rivet heads at the bottom. When you glue the bottom magnets in, let them stick out a little so they can still contact the steel. The magnets at the top should be flush with the acrylic.
If you want to heat the case, this little heater is great - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XDTWN2/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00
If you are going to run it during a print, the air needs to be directed down away from the bed. I've added a mount to put a 3" duct onto, and a hood for the inside to angle the air down . I can heat the inside to around 60C, you really wouldn't want to go hotter than that.