Print Temperature Calibration Piece
by Fastrack, published
So I developed this... The base is 25mm x 5mm, spindle is 10mm x 40mm.
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I did posted this in the Comments.... It's quite long...
"The end result 235C was the best bond, it actually ripped off the 3 layers of infill from the base and produced a clearly visible hole! As you can see 245C was going downhill again in bond strength."
I have determined on average if your doing VERY large objects like 100x100 I've been adding about 5C-10C to the print temp determined by using this piece. I do have another piece that tests large objects but of course it uses a lot more plastic
In the picture, which of the four was your ideal temperature?
How are you snapping the spindle, by hand?
There's many different ones. When I was trying it. I just used some stiff cardboard.
I found that if the part had very small details, even with the Cool plugin in Skeinforge enabled it would melt the previous layer. Maybe because I also have an enclosure? Anyway I run without the Fan Cover now.
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UPDATE: Green filament is from Repraper (Voxel Factory in Canada). There are 2 rows of 215c, 220c, 225c. The second row is with a FAN cover installed UNDER the headsinks/fans on the Replicator 1. These pieces were the strongest pieces I've ever made!! I could barely break them. However I'm having trouble printing the amazing marble run (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:30166) with the FAN cover installed. The bottom of the tracks where the magnet is inserted curls up - the slide portion is fine. I'm going to try reducing my HBP heat from 115C to 105C. To all those that say the FAN cover "might make a difference", I can tell you that the bonding seems about 10x the strength. So much so I was about to get some pilers to break the temp calibration pieces!
** Make sure your platform is level, your filament diameter is correct as all these factors can contribute to bond strength.
Print with 10% and 1 extra shell (2 in total). Print at the temperature you think is close to the best. I used 4 settings 230C,235C,240C,245C. Make sure you label them (I labelled base & spindle).
As pointed out by theverant in the comments. Speed also affects the bonding of the plastic my test was done at 80mm/s. Higher/Lower will change the print temperature slightly, I'm not sure by how much I haven't experimented with that yet.
Once all your desired pieces are printed, grasp the base & spindle and break off the spindle, the result was shocking to me! I was expecting them all to look like 230C (as that's how my objects have been since I got the replicator).
The end result 235C was the best bond, it actually ripped off the 3 layers of infill from the base and produced a clearly visible hole! As you can see 245C was going downhill again in bond strength.
I believe I'll have to do this for Black, White and coloured plastics.
Just wanted to add...
The amount of force required to break the pieces changes as well (which is expected), so even if the end result is similar. Try and gauge the required force as you break the pieces. Unless you own a force gauge :)
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