Hey! This thing is still a Work in Progress.
Files, instructions, and other stuff might change!
Print Temperature Calibration Piece
116
Likes
451
Downloads
6427
Views
Published on November 20, 2012
Description
I've posted topics asking how to come up with the proper print temperature and read many posts as well. All that came back or what I read was "do it by trial and error", no one really gave any direction. The more I thought about it, the correct print temperature has to result in the highest bond strength.
So I developed this... The base is 25mm x 5mm, spindle is 10mm x 40mm.
So I developed this... The base is 25mm x 5mm, spindle is 10mm x 40mm.
Instructions
NOTE: This might be obvious to some, but pay attention to the print quality as well as the strength. I just tried my test pieces with some filament from a2aprinter and the best bond was 245C, but the print quality was garbage. So I analysed the pieces (top surface) and picked the strongest piece with the best print quality. This roll has some air bubbles in it as well which would affect the bond strength and the print quality.
UPDATE: Green filament is from Repraper (Voxel Factory in Canada). There are 2 rows of 215c, 220c, 225c. The second row is with a FAN cover installed UNDER the headsinks/fans on the Replicator 1. These pieces were the strongest pieces I've ever made!! I could barely break them. However I'm having trouble printing the amazing marble run (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:30166) with the FAN cover installed. The bottom of the tracks where the magnet is inserted curls up - the slide portion is fine. I'm going to try reducing my HBP heat from 115C to 105C. To all those that say the FAN cover "might make a difference", I can tell you that the bonding seems about 10x the strength. So much so I was about to get some pilers to break the temp calibration pieces!
** Make sure your platform is level, your filament diameter is correct as all these factors can contribute to bond strength.
Print with 10% and 1 extra shell (2 in total). Print at the temperature you think is close to the best. I used 4 settings 230C,235C,240C,245C. Make sure you label them (I labelled base & spindle).
As pointed out by theverant in the comments. Speed also affects the bonding of the plastic my test was done at 80mm/s. Higher/Lower will change the print temperature slightly, I'm not sure by how much I haven't experimented with that yet.
Once all your desired pieces are printed, grasp the base & spindle and break off the spindle, the result was shocking to me! I was expecting them all to look like 230C (as that's how my objects have been since I got the replicator).
The end result 235C was the best bond, it actually ripped off the 3 layers of infill from the base and produced a clearly visible hole! As you can see 245C was going downhill again in bond strength.
I believe I'll have to do this for Black, White and coloured plastics.
Just wanted to add...
The amount of force required to break the pieces changes as well (which is expected), so even if the end result is similar. Try and gauge the required force as you break the pieces. Unless you own a force gauge :)
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Force_gauge
UPDATE: Green filament is from Repraper (Voxel Factory in Canada). There are 2 rows of 215c, 220c, 225c. The second row is with a FAN cover installed UNDER the headsinks/fans on the Replicator 1. These pieces were the strongest pieces I've ever made!! I could barely break them. However I'm having trouble printing the amazing marble run (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:30166) with the FAN cover installed. The bottom of the tracks where the magnet is inserted curls up - the slide portion is fine. I'm going to try reducing my HBP heat from 115C to 105C. To all those that say the FAN cover "might make a difference", I can tell you that the bonding seems about 10x the strength. So much so I was about to get some pilers to break the temp calibration pieces!
** Make sure your platform is level, your filament diameter is correct as all these factors can contribute to bond strength.
Print with 10% and 1 extra shell (2 in total). Print at the temperature you think is close to the best. I used 4 settings 230C,235C,240C,245C. Make sure you label them (I labelled base & spindle).
As pointed out by theverant in the comments. Speed also affects the bonding of the plastic my test was done at 80mm/s. Higher/Lower will change the print temperature slightly, I'm not sure by how much I haven't experimented with that yet.
Once all your desired pieces are printed, grasp the base & spindle and break off the spindle, the result was shocking to me! I was expecting them all to look like 230C (as that's how my objects have been since I got the replicator).
The end result 235C was the best bond, it actually ripped off the 3 layers of infill from the base and produced a clearly visible hole! As you can see 245C was going downhill again in bond strength.
I believe I'll have to do this for Black, White and coloured plastics.
Just wanted to add...
The amount of force required to break the pieces changes as well (which is expected), so even if the end result is similar. Try and gauge the required force as you break the pieces. Unless you own a force gauge :)
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Force_gauge
You must be logged in to post a comment.
destroyer2012
on
November 26, 2012
said:
Wow, awesome! Seems like THE way to calibrate the right temperature for printing support. You want good print quality, but bad adhesion for easy removal.. Thanks, will try later.
Fastrack
on
November 26, 2012
said:
Very true!! So many variables :) Too high a temperature and overhangs suffer as well.
Ben
NewtonRob
on
November 24, 2012
said:
Looks like I printed one and it broke as well as the best one shown. So I'm calling my settings good. Thanks for the test. I was wondering how to calabrate the best temp.
Fastrack
on
November 24, 2012
said:
The Replicator is my first 3d printer and I've spent a ton of time calibrating it. The temperature has been bugging me. So far this seems to work.
I also noticed the about of force required to break the pieces quite a bit different as well, between the temperature ranges.
Kronos10
on
November 21, 2012
said:
During your tests did you find that the color of the filament made a difference?
License
Print Temperature Calibration Piece by Fastrack is licensed under the Attribution - Share Alike - Creative Commons license.
More from Fastrack
More from 3D Printing Tests
I am amazed that there really isn't more tests like this done.
Very helpful for the data but more importantly for the methodology.
There are way too many variables.
I recently got to talk with a rep from a distributor of a comercial 3d printer.
One very important factor for ABS at least is the ambient temp.
In fact the comercial printer has a patent on the chamber being regulated.
I actually found if I blocked the airflow from the replicator fans it greatly improved the bonding (more heat). But on small objects there was too much heat generated.