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Tardis with drawers

by MakeALot, published

Tardis with drawers by MakeALot Nov 23, 2012

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Description

Combination of Tardis with doors and stacker drawers

Could be filled with Who Chess set thingiverse.com/thing:19841 !

Recent Comments

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Insert the door in the bottom hole, bend the door slightly along its length, insert into top hold and release the bend to insert the lug in the top hole.
How do you install the doors to the main body without anything/everything breaking? Tried twice and now the door frame is dented and the peg that holds the doors in their holes are broken, and I have to print new ones.
Warping is generally due to poor bed adhesion. I use Elmer's glue stick on my bed and I never have any problems with warping ( I have had many problems with many other methods in the past). As far as cracking, this could also be due to the warping, but it's more likely due to poor layer adhesion. This can be caused by poor flow ( due to incorrect temperature) or by things like the AC pointing directly at the print. Warping is normally a problem for ABS prints, not PLA, so I'd start by turning the temperature up a little and see if that helps.You must get your bed level before you start.Good luck!

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License

Tardis with drawers by MakeALot is licensed under the Creative Commons - Attribution license.

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Instructions

I've had to make the stacker drawer slightly narrower to keep the Tardis the same shape.

I've also improved the base of the drawers so that they stick to the build platform by more surface area but still stack.

I left the door stop on the original upload, if you downloaded that one, you can always just cut it off (I did!).

I'll turn off work in progress when I've posted the rest of the drawer types.

Update:

The double height draw was too high, I've uploaded a new one.

I'm going to turn off the Work In Progress flag, these drawers work, let me know if you want one of the others and I'll generate it.

I have got a derivative that's nearly ready with a chess board embedded in the bottom of the 6 drawers. I'll post that as a new item rather than adding it here.
How do you install the doors to the main body without anything/everything breaking? Tried twice and now the door frame is dented and the peg that holds the doors in their holes are broken, and I have to print new ones.
Insert the door in the bottom hole, bend the door slightly along its length, insert into top hold and release the bend to insert the lug in the top hole.
I had warping and cracking issues. I just used the default Replicator settings. What should I do?
Warping is generally due to poor bed adhesion. I use Elmer's glue stick on my bed and I never have any problems with warping ( I have had many problems with many other methods in the past). As far as cracking, this could also be due to the warping, but it's more likely due to poor layer adhesion. This can be caused by poor flow ( due to incorrect temperature) or by things like the AC pointing directly at the print. Warping is normally a problem for ABS prints, not PLA, so I'd start by turning the temperature up a little and see if that helps.You must get your bed level before you start.Good luck!
Printed down nicely. Thanks for the project!
Repetier shows a warning on the body that object is "not manifold", which usually causes slicing problems. And eventually, after slicing, the part is wrong: split in two parts horizontally, and completely filled.

Any advice?
Although I personally haven't had the problem you identified, I ran it through Netfabb and it has fixed an error. Maybe you can try the body STL with the extension "_netfabb" I just uploaded?
The _netfabb version worked for me as well to correctly generate gcode with a hollow interior! On an unrelated note, I'd like to know if anyone thinks support material would improve the bottom (back) side of the main body.
Yes, this version worked! Thanks, I'll now be able to try the print.
Do you recommend any infill for the large body piece? I started and cancelled it last night due to bridging issues on the back doors and a bit of a messy look on 'floor' of the build while starting the next level. I was trying it with 0% infill, but guessing I need to use some?
I used 10% infill.
Thanks again, will give it another go this weekend....
Honestly, I'm pretty hesitant to print this as is on my Replicator 2.....the top of that main body is def too far to bridge. Anyone tried printing it standing on its base?
I printed mine on a Replicator 2 in the orientation shown. :)
Thanks.....just a bit gun shy, that would suck to have a problem after 80% was done....must be a long print job too. Thanks for your reply!
I can't get the download link to work.
The individual files are downloading OK, but for some reason the zip isn't :(
You could either try each separately or maybe wait an hour and try the zip again.
disqus.com/thingiverse-2051bd70fc110a2208bdbd4a743e7f79/, can you make a light with a hole for an LED light and another slightly larger hole for the main body so then the wires can fit?
This looks FANTASTIC! I hope it prints well. I'm new to the whole 3D printing thing, so what can you recommend as far as settings go? (Printing this with ABS)
I don't think you'll be able to print it in ABS, you'll have a problem with warping given its size.
I recommend you use PLA, 0.2-0.25 mm layer height and reasonably fast to help with the bridging on the back doors.

You might be lucky, but I'd try some smaller things first until you get the hang of your printer and all it's foibles, but good luck anyway. Please let me know how you get on.
Can someone post the download link?
Something wrong with the "Download This Thing!" button?
Yup... I can't click on it. Using Dolphin browser on my phone.
It might work if you turn you phone to landscape mode. The problem with the new site design is that it detects the browser size when determining which layout to use, therefore it'll only work with a sufficiently wide browser area.
Try this until they fix it thingiverse.com/thing:35167/zip
Alternatively , wait until you get to your build machine and download it from a workstation browser.
this is a beautiful Tardis, but I've not been able to get the back to print decently - two tries, both stringy messes because it's trying to bridge such a huge distance. That being said, I'm printing in PLA, not ABS, so bridging is trickier.

Are people printing this using support? Are you printing in ABS or PLA?Perhaps it's worth adding some supports?
I've tried ABS and I have also not successfully printed yet. I've tried this a number of times scaled at 50% standard, fine and coarse settings. I was making on a Replicator using Makerbot filament. Supports didn't help much when I tried them, the center spar comes out incomplete, with or without rafts. The larger problem is separation between layers. The separation is worse at the bottom of the model. If the floor thickness were beefed up, I think it might print better.

Makerware settings: Standard: 10% fill, 2 shells, .20 mm layer height. FIne: 10% 2 shells, .10 layer height; Coarse: 10%, 2 shells, .30 layer height.
You'll probably find that at 50% scale the panels are too thin, try a larger scale.
I've made all of mine using PLA on a Replicator 2. The cooling fan is pointing directly at the filament output and cools it very quickly. If I turned off the cooling fan, it would not bridge.   I expect that support would work well, it only needs to support the first 3mm.
What print settings have people found optimal (shell etc)
This was printed with the standard "Medium" settings in Makerware.
Whats that for those of us not in the Makerware world?
About how much does the finished print weigh? I'd like to work out cost and how much filament I need left on a spool.  Thanks!
Depends on the scale, nozzle size, layer
height and infill. At full scale (230mm high), using a 0.4mm nozzle, layer height of 0.27 mm and an infill of 10%, resulted in a Tardis weighing
326g and drawers weighing 219g, giving a total of 545g.   Which
is about 1lb 3oz in old money ;-)
What would it cost to buy one? I "need" one on my desk to hold my paper clips and things!
Clever and lovely!
How does the bottom features turn out. A lot of overhangs?
Not bad. I've included a picture of the back before any clean up.  Obviously, not as good as the sides and modelled slightly differently but good enough. I was careful to make sure each of the changes in level was a straight bridge.
It's bigger on the inside than the outside.
The wonders of 3D printing - Orthographic projection :-)
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