Tardis with drawers

by MakeALot, published

Tardis with drawers by MakeALot Nov 23, 2012

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Combination of Tardis with doors and stacker drawers

Could be filled with Who Chess set thingiverse.com/thing:19841 !

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Printed down nicely. Thanks for the project!

The _netfabb version worked for me as well to correctly generate gcode with a hollow interior! On an unrelated note, I'd like to know if anyone thinks support material would improve the bottom (back) side of the main body.

Yes, this version worked! Thanks, I'll now be able to try the print.

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Tardis with drawers by MakeALot is licensed under the Creative Commons - Attribution license.

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I've had to make the stacker drawer slightly narrower to keep the Tardis the same shape.

I've also improved the base of the drawers so that they stick to the build platform by more surface area but still stack.

I left the door stop on the original upload, if you downloaded that one, you can always just cut it off (I did!).

I'll turn off work in progress when I've posted the rest of the drawer types.


The double height draw was too high, I've uploaded a new one.

I'm going to turn off the Work In Progress flag, these drawers work, let me know if you want one of the others and I'll generate it.

I have got a derivative that's nearly ready with a chess board embedded in the bottom of the 6 drawers. I'll post that as a new item rather than adding it here.


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dragonwelp72 on Mar 20, 2014 said:

Printed down nicely. Thanks for the project!

Epok13 on Feb 22, 2014 said:

Repetier shows a warning on the body that object is "not manifold", which usually causes slicing problems. And eventually, after slicing, the part is wrong: split in two parts horizontally, and completely filled.

Any advice?

MakeALot on Feb 22, 2014 said:

Although I personally haven't had the problem you identified, I ran it through Netfabb and it has fixed an error. Maybe you can try the body STL with the extension "_netfabb" I just uploaded?

ukcat on Feb 5, 2014 said:

Do you recommend any infill for the large body piece? I started and cancelled it last night due to bridging issues on the back doors and a bit of a messy look on 'floor' of the build while starting the next level. I was trying it with 0% infill, but guessing I need to use some?

MakeALot on Feb 5, 2014 said:

I used 10% infill.

ukcat on Jan 18, 2014 said:

Honestly, I'm pretty hesitant to print this as is on my Replicator 2.....the top of that main body is def too far to bridge. Anyone tried printing it standing on its base?

MakeALot on Jan 20, 2014 said:

I printed mine on a Replicator 2 in the orientation shown. :)

Supercockroach on Dec 3, 2013 said:

I can't get the download link to work.

MakeALot on Dec 3, 2013 said:

The individual files are downloading OK, but for some reason the zip isn't :(
You could either try each separately or maybe wait an hour and try the zip again.

Lgchinadragon on Oct 17, 2013 said:

MakeALot, can you make a light with a hole for an LED light and another slightly larger hole for the main body so then the wires can fit?

CC43 on Sep 29, 2013 said:

This looks FANTASTIC! I hope it prints well. I'm new to the whole 3D printing thing, so what can you recommend as far as settings go? (Printing this with ABS)

MakeALot on Sep 30, 2013 said:

I don't think you'll be able to print it in ABS, you'll have a problem with warping given its size.
I recommend you use PLA, 0.2-0.25 mm layer height and reasonably fast to help with the bridging on the back doors.

You might be lucky, but I'd try some smaller things first until you get the hang of your printer and all it's foibles, but good luck anyway. Please let me know how you get on.

Roach570 on Aug 14, 2013 said:

Can someone post the download link?

MichaelAtOz on Aug 14, 2013 said:

Something wrong with the "Download This Thing!" button?

laird on Dec 17, 2012 said:

this is a beautiful Tardis, but I've not been able to get the back to print decently - two tries, both stringy messes because it's trying to bridge such a huge distance. That being said, I'm printing in PLA, not ABS, so bridging is trickier.

Are people printing this using support? Are you printing in ABS or PLA?Perhaps it's worth adding some supports?

esteadle on Aug 27, 2013 said:

I've tried ABS and I have also not successfully printed yet. I've tried this a number of times scaled at 50% standard, fine and coarse settings. I was making on a Replicator using Makerbot filament. Supports didn't help much when I tried them, the center spar comes out incomplete, with or without rafts. The larger problem is separation between layers. The separation is worse at the bottom of the model. If the floor thickness were beefed up, I think it might print better.

Makerware settings: Standard: 10% fill, 2 shells, .20 mm layer height. FIne: 10% 2 shells, .10 layer height; Coarse: 10%, 2 shells, .30 layer height.

MakeALot on Dec 17, 2012 said:

I've made all of mine using PLA on a Replicator 2. The cooling fan is pointing directly at the filament output and cools it very quickly. If I turned off the cooling fan, it would not bridge.   I expect that support would work well, it only needs to support the first 3mm.

Framingr on Dec 11, 2012 said:

What print settings have people found optimal (shell etc)

MakeALot on Dec 11, 2012 said:

This was printed with the standard "Medium" settings in Makerware.

LeadCarbonate on Nov 25, 2012 said:

About how much does the finished print weigh? I'd like to work out cost and how much filament I need left on a spool.  Thanks!

MakeALot on Nov 25, 2012 said:

Depends on the scale, nozzle size, layer
height and infill. At full scale (230mm high), using a 0.4mm nozzle, layer height of 0.27 mm and an infill of 10%, resulted in a Tardis weighing
326g and drawers weighing 219g, giving a total of 545g.   Which
is about 1lb 3oz in old money ;-)

Whystler on Nov 25, 2012 said:

Clever and lovely!

MichaelAtOz on Nov 23, 2012 said:

How does the bottom features turn out. A lot of overhangs?

MakeALot on Nov 24, 2012 said:

Not bad. I've included a picture of the back before any clean up.  Obviously, not as good as the sides and modelled slightly differently but good enough. I was careful to make sure each of the changes in level was a straight bridge.

cerberus333 on Nov 23, 2012 said:

It's bigger on the inside than the outside.

MakeALot on Nov 23, 2012 said:

The wonders of 3D printing - Orthographic projection :-)